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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I bought a 2005 with 6700 mi. with no Warranty in Dec of 2009 at a dealer who said that they changed the clutch and slave cylinder when it was traded in. I put 4800 great trouble free miles on it this summer then it started slipping in the higher gears when passing cars.
So I think to myself probably one of the other seals since the dealer put new clutch and cylinder in and I've only put 4800 mi.on it.
So off I go and obtain a broken pallet lift that I fix and modify for a bike lift and begin the tear down process that I've prepared myself for by lurking around here for info which you guys are so nice enough to share.
Now I have it torn down to what I assume is a leaking slave cylinder . The Cylinder and gasket look new so I assume again the dealer was truthful .
Are these slave cylinders defective ? Are Beemerboneyards slave cyl better ?
I'm thinking about using a double lip seal for the push rod after I drill the weep hole - what do you think ?
Any way I still gotta tear into this clutch and I appreciate any answers or advise you guys may have.

Thanks Tom
 

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Slave cylinder can be bad I had one that leaked externally after I put it on as it had a very small dimple in the flat surface just next to the banjo fitting. It only leaked when warm. Have you drilled a weep hole in the clutch housing just to see how much oil might be in the housing and causing clutch damage or it could be a rear main seal that is leaking and that can cause clutch failure. I had that problem as well. If the dealer did the work and it is within a certain time frame BMW should warrantee the work as well as the part. The did mine when it went bad. I believe it has a 6 month warrantee on the part.
 

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Hi Tom,

That photo shows a lot of juice in the housing. What vintage is the juice, clutch fluid or transmission fluid? If it is transmission fluid then the shaft seal is bad. I am in the process of a tear down to drill the weep hole (not there yet) and I intend to replace the seal. Did your dealer indicate that they replaced the seal? The P/N for the seal that I have is 23 12 7 705 085 17x28x7. Looks to me that your problem is there.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have not drilled the weep hole in the clutch housing yet. I was going to do that when I got the Trans and clutch out so I won't drill the clutch when I break through. The clutch let loose after about 9 months so I figured no use in trying to get the dealer to honor any waranty . I'm going to try and use this early failure as ammo to break him down on prices
of parts when I have a list ready.
I am pretty sure it is brake fluid by the smell but after draining the final drive all I could smell was that 90wt smell that lingers for a while. No sign of red in the fluid which should be the color of the trans fluid like the final drive was but I still have to drain the tranny to confirm.
 

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This is a question for the more experienced on the forum. When (what year) was the spec for clutch fluid changed from DOT 4 to mineral oil? Could the wrong fluid be a source for this failure? Are there different slave cyl. P/Ns for the different fluids? :confused:
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Boatzo said:
This is a question for the more experienced on the forum. When (what year) was the spec for clutch fluid changed from DOT 4 to mineral oil? Could the wrong fluid be a source for this failure? Are there different slave cyl. P/Ns for the different fluids? :confused:
It was NEVER changed for the LT. Use only Dot 4. Some other models began using mineral oil (not the stuff you get at the drug store either) some where around 2007 or so. My GS uses it.

For TomK1200lt:
Slave cylinders have been very reliable (upwards of 60K plus) until they are contaminated by transmission oil. Always replace both the seals and slave when the fluid level is that bad. The seals in the tranny can't take brake fluid and the slave seal can't take tranny oil. If your rod was wet then that was the cause of the slipping clutch, the drain hole will solve that.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The push rod was wet and the brake fluid was dirty at the slave cylinder but the fluid at the resevoir on the handle bar is clear which might indicate contamination be it trans oil or /and seal breakdown .
I plan on changing slave cylinder and slave rod trans/motor seals , clutch parts and a 12k mi. pm kit from beemer boneyard. Drill drain holes at slave and bottom of clutch housing.
 

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Tomk1200lt said:
Hi guys,

I bought a 2005 with 6700 mi. with no Warranty in Dec of 2009 at a dealer who said that they changed the clutch and slave cylinder when it was traded in. I put 4800 great trouble free miles on it this summer then it started slipping in the higher gears when passing cars.
So I think to myself probably one of the other seals since the dealer put new clutch and cylinder in and I've only put 4800 mi.on it.
So off I go and obtain a broken pallet lift that I fix and modify for a bike lift and begin the tear down process that I've prepared myself for by lurking around here for info which you guys are so nice enough to share.
Now I have it torn down to what I assume is a leaking slave cylinder . The Cylinder and gasket look new so I assume again the dealer was truthful .
Are these slave cylinders defective ? Are Beemerboneyards slave cyl better ?
I'm thinking about using a double lip seal for the push rod after I drill the weep hole - what do you think ?
Any way I still gotta tear into this clutch and I appreciate any answers or advise you guys may have.

Thanks Tom
FYI i know that at least the parts should be covered under warranty if they were replaced less than 2 years ago. BMW parts have a two year warranty!
 

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Sorry to disagree on that last statement, but I just had a clutch go out (2nd clutch) only 14 months after replacement and nothing is covered.
 

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Hanshi, you need to find a better dealer! That statement about the 24 month warranty on the BMW parts and labor is a fact! If your dealer is telling you otherwise they know something that our dealers out west here certainly don't know. I am sure you could have gotten credit for the pats at least, even if you had already torn into it yourself as far as the labor goes. Hopefully you have receipts for the work that the dealer did.

John
Hanshi said:
Sorry to disagree on that last statement, but I just had a clutch go out (2nd clutch) only 14 months after replacement and nothing is covered.
 

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I believe you would be correct about the warranty if the OP had the work done as part of his purchase agreement. If I understand his post correctly the dealer installed the parts after the bike was traded and before it was re-sold. Probably no warranty in that situation unless you get it in writing on the purchase agreement.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You are right Deanwoolsley ,the dealer did install the parts
after trade in and before my purchase.
During negotiations I tried to get a warranty out of him and I almost walked away from the deal but I really liked
the bike I bought it and here I am 1 year later
eating crow over this bike from my wife.

Tom
 
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