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Discussion Starter #1
My 2003 Lt has always had battery "longevity" issues since I brought it home in '06.
By that I mean, after sitting for two days the battery would be down to 12.1volts. This is my third battery in 5 years, 2nd Odyssey. With my Odyssey charger, I disconnected the low side and charged the battery. The battery has maintained 12.7volts for a week now. So I finally got off my lazy ars and hooked up an amp meter in line with the low side of the battery. Much to my shock, the reading was 2.1amps! I pulled ALL the fuses with NO effect on the 2amp reading? I read allot of posts about "high" draw like 0.75amps, but come on 2amps? And yes that's with the fork locked/parked position.
What am I missing/overlooking?
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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There should only be 3 red wires on the positive post of the battery (factory)and one black with yellow stripe and a red sleeve on the connector. Any thing more than that is aftermarket. The static drain, even with all factory fuses in, should be no more than 35 mili amps.
 

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2amps :eek2: That is way too much, no wonder you are going through batteries. Try the process of elimination, take out one circuit at a time till the current flow drops. Could also be a pinched wire somewhere? Hope you find it soon.

Also, in the fork locked park position, the parking light is supposed to be lit. Maybe there is a short in the lamp base? Do you get the same amp reading with the key in just the OFF position (not locked)?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have one additional "farkle" , a USB power converter connected to the bottom right accessory connector but was disconnected.
I apologize for using the "parked" term, the key is in the OFF position.
A friend suggested that the alternator main diode way be the culprit, but I wouldn't think that the charge circuit would still be functioning properly?
No Dice, plus I had the CD changer pulled years ago.
Also during the meter measurement, I had the stingray removed.
Still scratching my head and didn't want to have to remove the tank, but......... :confused:
 

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JZ mentioned 3 wires on the positive battery post, check the amp draw on each. When you see the 2A draw, look in the print and start disconnecting the circuits tied to that wire.
It will save you a lot of time.
 

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If you have the ignition in anything but Lock there might be a drain. At least with my 2000 if it is in Lock the battery will not drain but leave in Off and there is a drain.
 

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Guessing is not going to fix this one.. You have all the tools you need...Ammeter is all you need...

Get off the negative side and go to the positive side.. Pull all the positive wires off then reconnect your ground. Check them one at a time till you find your culprit...Then work your way thru the circuit..

You'll get there... Keep us posted... Look for corrosion while you're troubleshooting. Corrosion under the right circumstances can draw current...


John
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok it's official I am a dumbass!! I didn't believe 2amps draw, but my voltamp meter said so so I went with it and posted anyway before getting a "second" opinion. My buddy has a "grown up" meter which accurately provided readings that were consistent with previously posted current draw. With parking light on .75amps. I'm going to continue pursuing the issue with my buddy's meter ( Meterman 34xr) as I was using a Craftsman 82141. I had no reason to doubt my meter, but there you go.....
Thanks for all the help and commentary anyway
:histerica
 

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BobW said:
If you have the ignition in anything but Lock there might be a drain. At least with my 2000 if it is in Lock the battery will not drain but leave in Off and there is a drain.
Good to know! Thanks.
 
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