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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am getting back on 2 wheels after a long hiatus of over 12 years. My last bike was a 2004 R1150RT, and prior to that I had a 1999 K122LT. Earlier this week, I picked up a 2016 R1200RTP.

I am familiar with the pain of removing the fairing and side panels on these bikes. But, whomever thought that it was an awesome idea to stuff the headlight assembly for the bike behind all these panels, tabs and screws needs to have their brains checked . :p

I started to work on replacing the hi beam headlight bulbs with Cyclops LEDs. At first, I tried to stuff them into that little hole from behind the speakers. There was no way that all that stuff is going to fit inside the headlight assembly unless I take the whole thing apart and put them on my work bench. So, I started removing the panels 1 by 1. Got as far as "Removing Left Front-Fairing Panel" and am stuck. The top right corner (purple square area in picture) does not want to come out. I have tugged on it carefully and it will not come off. In this process, I broke a mounting tab (red rectangle in the picture) which I might be able to get back together.:rolleyes:

How can I get these panels off to get the headlight assembly off the motorcycle?




 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Folks, Thanks for the pointers. @Scott9999 pointed out one important thing to me. My ride is the police version and it seems to be different from the civilian version.

In trying to remove that painted surround panels, I've now successfully broken 2 tabs :eek::mad:

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
After a few hours of cussing, brain scratching, more cussing, etc.....I was able to get all 3 bulbs into their holders. I still am not 100% sure the center low beam bulb is installed with both the clips and need to revisit that one again. I can say that the light output from the Cyclops is so much more than the stock bulbs.





Please ignore all the crap on the garage floor :(

However, I can't figure out how all of the other stuff is supposed to get stuffed into the headlight assembly. The instructions say to tuck it all at the 7 o'clock position. But the RF suppressors and other LED stuff just won't fit behind the big fans for the LED bulbs. Until I figure out how to get this entire assembly out, I am going to let these wires dangle outside. Not planning to ride much for the next few days thanks to Hurricane Ian's remnants that will be arriving starting tomorrow.

 

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2020 R1250RT Alpine White
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...
However, I can't figure out how all of the other stuff is supposed to get stuffed into the headlight assembly. The instructions say to tuck it all at the 7 o'clock position. But the RF suppressors and other LED stuff just won't fit behind the big fans for the LED bulbs. Until I figure out how to get this entire assembly out, I am going to let these wires dangle outside. Not planning to ride much for the next few days thanks to Hurricane Ian's remnants that will be arriving starting tomorrow.
It is MUCH easier when you have the entire headlight assembly off the bike and turned upside down on the dinner table! 😁

I gave up trying to install the Cyclops LEDs through the light access ports very quickly and, luckily for me, got the headlight unit out of the bike relatively easily. Once it was on the table it was pretty straightforward.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Rim Bumper


I love the LEDs and wow, what a difference from the stock bulbs.

Ride safe -
Larry
 

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2018 R1200RT
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FYI, just make sure you recheck the light adjustment. These LED's will usually skew higher than the OEM Halogen bulbs. You can see the white bar, I believe that's the horizontal adjuster, and the plastic, black, hex nut, that's the left/right adjuster (if I recall correctly). I had to drop the H7 running light WAY lower than the OEM. The specs are in your user manual, or published online here and there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’ll check them for sure to ensure they are aimed correctly.

I found a set of panels on eBay from another RT and bought them. These are a bit scuffed on the outside, but all the tabs are intact. If I can’t get the tabs set correctly, I will have a backup.
 

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2015 R1200RT
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You could have gone with a tab repair kit from Clear water. Might be easier than cleaning those up. Wish I would have seen this earlier...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You could have gone with a tab repair kit from Clear water. Might be easier than cleaning those up. Wish I would have seen this earlier...
Those tabs were already broken, probably while the bike was in service with the PD. They used good quality dual lock to hold that panel in place. What I broke are these tabs on the upper fairing panel. These are tabs that are held by screws and not the hook style tabs. This is a picture from a different motorcycle.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Getting the headlight assembly out was not rocket science after all



The only difference from the civilian bikes is that there’s a plastic retainer around the flashing light mount that was holding things back. Once I pulled out that left panel from around that mount, the rest of the panels came off quickly.


 

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The high beams can be accessed by removing the radio/speaker covers, when I did mine I was able replace the low beam without removing anything by getting my had into that small area. It was not easy but I was not willing to take the headlight apart :)

BTW where do you find RT-Ps I had one before and I am looking for one but can't seem to find them anywhere. Please PM me where to look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The high beams can be accessed by removing the radio/speaker covers, when I did mine I was able replace the low beam without removing anything by getting my had into that small area. It was not easy but I was not willing to take the headlight apart :)

BTW where do you find RT-Ps I had one before and I am looking for one but can't seem to find them anywhere. Please PM me where to look.
As I said earlier, It wasn't easy to do, but not impossible :) Anyways, I had to remove all the police lights. So, this was part of the project.
 

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The high beams can be accessed by removing the radio/speaker covers, when I did mine I was able replace the low beam without removing anything by getting my had into that small area. It was not easy but I was not willing to take the headlight apart :)

BTW where do you find RT-Ps I had one before and I am looking for one but can't seem to find them anywhere. Please PM me where to look.
In my part of the USA, the Northeast, they are sold by the servicing dealerships. They tend to come up for sale in batches as contracts expire. The ones I've looked at were very well maintained - locked into frequent dealership servicing by the leasing contracts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Work continues, albeit at a snail's pace. I removed all the police lights and most of the rats nest of wires that were caused probably when it was being decommissioned. The reason I say this is 'cos the wires were not joined professionally like what would have come from the factory. Wire nuts, butt joints, you can pick your choice of how 2 or more wires can be joined together :eek::mad:

While cleaning and inspecting the panels that were removed, I noticed a lot of surface scratches. The top case lid also has a long crack which I filled up with JB Weld from the inside. I asked about repainting the panels and wasn't too happy with the prices that I was quoted. They were more like, "we don't want to do these small jobs" prices. So, late last week, I reached out to the guy that has done window tint for my many cars to ask about vinyl wrapping the white panels. He agreed to do the work for a reasonable price. We picked Pearl White and he's going to try and get it all done by this weekend. 🤞 I wanted to stay with the white & black theme.



Not all of the parts deliveries are like 1/2 day shipments from Amazon :p Things are taking forever to get here.

Anyways, I started installing stuff that I had received last week. First order of business was to get the Cyclops LED lights installed properly and tuck all the wiring and pieces of electrical components hidden inside the headlight assembly. Since the wife is traveling for work, I took over the kitchen island to use as my work bench and finished it. I am really glad that I took the assembly out for this. I do not see how all this could have been achieved with the unit still on the bike. Also replaced the tiny marker/parking light bulbs with LEDs.



Then I went on to install
  • Denali CANSmart
  • Denali B6 license plate lights
  • Denali SoundBomb
  • Denali D4 mounting brackets
  • 1 x Denali D4 driving lights (still waiting for a replacement D4 that had broken connectors when I received them)
  • Vizi-Tech Supabrake 2 brake light modulator
  • Quad Lock harness for the phone charger
  • Battery Tender pigtail for Auxiliary battery

Most of this was straight forward install. Since the bike is naked right now, I was able to get all the wiring tucked away and zip tied. But all this wiring has created another rats nest at the auxiliary battery terminals. So, I broke down and ordered a PDM 60. Other than the battery tender pigtail, I will move the rest to the PDM60. Still deciding whether to move the CANSmart also or not.



Found a link to these Fog lamp Amber covers on this forum. They went on the bike this evening. Look good. But, I am really not sure how durable the plastic will be. Time will tell. These aren't terribly expensive and are easy to install. These are stock pictures. I liked that they can be used selectively (white/amber) by just flipping them up like a visor.


 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Spent some time earlier this evening to get the electrical done.

  • PDM60 - Installed with a trigger from the Gray-Red wire in the taillamp connector.
  • Quadlock iPhone mount charger moved to circuit 1 on the PDM60. I wanted this to be on a switched circuit.
  • Replacement D4 came in a couple of days ago. Installed on the red circuit on the CANSmart. Yet to be aimed properly.
  • OEM Fog lights moved to the blue circuit on the CANSmart. Yet to be aimed properly.
  • Installed a ground bus bar for accessories that will be powered through the PDM60.
  • Tidied up some of the wiring. Will do some more when the panels come in and I can start putting the motorcycle back together. Hopefully the panels will be ready for pickup tomorrow.
  • CANSmart is currently programmed to bring up the fog lights at 20% on low beam. I might turn that completely off. D4s will come on 30/100 (Day/Night) on low beam only. Fogs will also flash alternately when turn signals are activated.






 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
After watching this video, I was motivated to have additional control of the fog lights.

I went with Denali connectors and made a permanent modification of the wiring since this bike is not going back in for any warranty repairs.


Disconnected the plug that is high up on the frame at almost engine height, I decided to cut the wires just behind the crash bars leaving enough length in the pigtail and then made a patch cable to connect to the Denali harness. Picture below is on the left side of the bike (when you are sitting on it).



The "Y" connection will get tucked behind the fork & triple tree. Factory fog lights use a 4-wire harness. These are wired as 2-wire lights and configured in the CANSmart as such. Only the Red & Black wires are used. Yellow is not. I've left it in the patch cable for now in case it is needed in the future.

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Received and installed the Innovv K5 dashcam today. I ordered the R1200RT specific mounting bracket for the front camera.

First impressions
  • The install was very easy. Since my bike is still stripped down for other work, installing the camera and routing the wires was very simple. It took me only about 30-40 minutes to complete this.
  • The front camera mount puts the camera looking slight above. I think that the videos are going to have a lot more sky in them and the horizon/road level is going to be quite low.
  • The front camera also sits quite a bit forward and outside the headlight area. I am not too thrilled about how much it protrudes outside. See pictures below. I might need to create a bracket to move that camera back and the headlight about 3".
  • The rear camera was not complicated at all. I remember seeing a picture here on the forum (forgot who posted it) and followed the same method.
  • IMO, this is a poor design of making that front camera contain everything AND putting out 6 pigtails that are only 18-20 inches long. This makes all the connections to be sitting behind the headlight and just under the horn location. It creates a pretty messy install.
  • The remote control lead is as long as the wire coming from the rear camera. This adds to more of the wiring mess under the handle bar area.
  • Video quality seems to be good. I only have shots of the inside the garage. Hope to get the bike together by Sunday and take it for a ride with all the goodies installed.


 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Was a busy day at work. My stress buster activity is to come into the garage in the evening and work on my autos. I was a bit frustrated that some of my parts are still in transit. While putting my stuff away, I found an old dual voltmeter that I had bought for monitoring my e38 BMW 750iL a couple of years ago that never got installed. I don't have that car and figured I could put it to good use on the RTP that has 2 batteries. The voltmeter Main +ve lead provides power to the display. It will not display either of the voltages if there's no power to the Main. So, I piggy backed this to the switched power line coming to the powerlet nearby. Now, when the key is ON, it will display the voltages on both, Main battery under rider seat and the Aux battery under the top case of the RTP. I did notice that there is a variation in numbers between this display and the dashboard voltage display. But, it is close enough.

PS: Before someone comments that the voltage should be higher, the voltages indicated in the pictures below are not with the motorcycle running. This is with just the switch on which brings up the headlight low beam, a pair of D4s at 70%, the OEM fog light at 30%, and the tail lamp. :)



 
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