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Discussion Starter #1
Looks like there is this starting virus going around. My '14 hasn't been ridden like it should. Tried to crank it, nope will not crank. Checked battery, 12+v on battery dropping to 8+ when cranking. Bad battery right? Replaced the battery with a AGM battery. Placed it on Battery Tender at about 0.5amp/hr rate for 48 hrs. Went to crank, notta. Currently have it on a 2amp charge. Prior to 2amp charge, voltage was 13+/ Battery cables look good, no corrosion. Where do I go from here?
Thanks
 

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I have got a 2014 so I take a couple of stabs in the dark
1) Check your Kill switch on the RHS..make sure it's in the RUN position
2) Sit on it..sidestand up and engine in Neutral..try again....
3) Check your instrument panel...if a "KEY" symbol is showing, then it isn't recognizing your key. Get rid of any keys on the same keyring and any metal that might upset it.

These are the quick once.
 

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Tried to crank it, nope will not crank.
I was in this same position on a '15 when it was 18 months old. I had tried all Alfred02's sensible and easy to do suggestions. The problem turned out to be in the RH switch, the start switch had failed. I later found out through research and more switch failures (RHS, LHS X2) that the switch gear is rubbish. One line of thought was that the switches were more likely to fail on hot days, so cooling them down with a damp rag might bring them back to life - if only temporarily. I never got to try this quick fix - I had 3 switch replacements under warranty.

Ian
 

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I've had three batteries replaced since 2014 all replaced by the dealer and all replaced under the battery warranty. I've also had problems with the switch gear causing an intermittent no-start condition, again replaced by the dealer under warranty at the time. I would say that if you're monitoring the battery voltage and you see the voltage drop low when you hit the starter that it's likely to be your battery and not the switch. As a test you can jump the bike with a car battery but do not start and run the car while jumping.
 

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I wonder if kill switches die from lack of use. Some people may mostly use the key to turn off the bike so might only use the KS for more urgent needs. I use the kill switch every time I get to the long side of a red light as I don't like holding the clutch for a long light and don't like the neutral to 1st clunk, so kill the engine w/ the kill switch. So far no problems (fingers crossed to white-knuckle level!) at 45K miles and going on 5y now.
 

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Agree with most that point to RH switch. AGMs have to be charged up if you got it w/o the gel (liquid) in it and properly charged up???
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Looks like there is this starting virus going around. My '14 hasn't been ridden like it should. Tried to crank it, nope will not crank. Checked battery, 12+v on battery dropping to 8+ when cranking. Bad battery right? Replaced the battery with a AGM battery. Placed it on Battery Tender at about 0.5amp/hr rate for 48 hrs. Went to crank, notta. Currently have it on a 2amp charge. Prior to 2amp charge, voltage was 13+/ Battery cables look good, no corrosion. Where do I go from here?
Thanks
Update:
New AGM battery charged to 13.5v. Tried to start lights dim and a faint clicking heard down in the area of the starter.
Kill switch in the run position, side stand in up position.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So the starter is not turning over the engine ?
Correct. When start button is pressed all I get is a click down by the starter. After some investigation I'm thinking it could be the kill switch/starter switch that is the problem. Looks like historically this is a problem with the '14s. Will take it off today and see what I find.
 

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Check but I am still suspicious. I would follow the negative lead from the battery and check that it's connection to the chassis is tight and not corroded. Then from there I would grab a big fat car battery and a couple of jumper leads to parallel it with your current battery and give that a go. The instructions for jump starting are in your user manual.
To me it sounds like your solenoid (part of your starter) is simply not getting enough voltage/current to engage the starter itself properly, (that's the clicking sound you are hearing).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Check but I am still suspicious. I would follow the negative lead from the battery and check that it's connection to the chassis is tight and not corroded. Then from there I would grab a big fat car battery and a couple of jumper leads to parallel it with your current battery and give that a go. The instructions for jump starting are in your user manual.
To me it sounds like your solenoid (part of your starter) is simply not getting enough voltage/current to engage the starter itself properly, (that's the clicking sound you are hearing).
I will do what you suggest. But the click is a single click not a run of clicks.
 

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ok..just be aware, the BMW switch system is a very finicky assembly. After trying the above first the next thing would be to carefully inspect the connectors to the RHS handlebar switch unit and work out how to disengage them and then plug back in..that alone could fix your problem as well. But treat all this with utmost care. My LHS was replaced under warranty when my Cruise Control failed. They replaced the entire assembly and from then on it showed intermittent erratic behavior. After putting up with this for nearly 6 months, I got sick of it and had a proper look..first by taking a photo with my phone and then using a small telescopic mirror. It turned out that they had bend one of the pins in the socket and the plug was never able to engage properly. This took some very careful work with miniature needle pliers to straighten out the pin and get the plug seated properly. All problems disappeared after that.
As I said..be extra careful.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok..just be aware, the BMW switch system is a very finicky assembly. After trying the above first the next thing would be to carefully inspect the connectors to the RHS handlebar switch unit and work out how to disengage them and then plug back in..that alone could fix your problem as well. But treat all this with utmost care. My LHS was replaced under warranty when my Cruise Control failed. They replaced the entire assembly and from then on it showed intermittent erratic behavior. After putting up with this for nearly 6 months, I got sick of it and had a proper look..first by taking a photo with my phone and then using a small telescopic mirror. It turned out that they had bend one of the pins in the socket and the plug was never able to engage properly. This took some very careful work with miniature needle pliers to straighten out the pin and get the plug seated properly. All problems disappeared after that.
As I said..be extra careful.
Correct. When start button is pressed all I get is a click down by the starter. After some investigation I'm thinking it could be the kill switch/starter switch that is the problem. Looks like historically this is a problem with the '14s. Will take it off today and see what I find.
Well that didn't work. Removed small spring/pin as suggested on YouTube. Reconnected, still a single click. Battery still holding charge at 13.5v. I don't know why but still thinking it's the switch.
Will try to trace ground as suggested. Any idea where a guy can buy a switch?
 

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Have you checked the starter relay? The starter switch just energizes the relay. That is the clicking sound you hear.
The switch part # 61318546182. I've seen some on ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Have you checked the starter relay? The starter switch just energizes the relay. That is the clicking sound you hear.
The switch part # 61318546182. I've seen some on ebay.
Where would I find the starter relay?
 

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Correct, it's behind the left hand side engine cover.
There is a description on how to test it in the Haynes manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update. Located starter relay. When ignition switch activated can feel and hear a single click in the relay. Will test relay with multimeter and keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Looks like there is this starting virus going around. My '14 hasn't been ridden like it should. Tried to crank it, nope will not crank. Checked battery, 12+v on battery dropping to 8+ when cranking. Bad battery right? Replaced the battery with a AGM battery. Placed it on Battery Tender at about 0.5amp/hr rate for 48 hrs. Went to crank, notta. Currently have it on a 2amp charge. Prior to 2amp charge, voltage was 13+/ Battery cables look good, no corrosion. Where do I go from here?
Thanks
Update
Pulled the relay. Check resistance across 2 power posts and it was good. Applied 12v to the posts no resistance. Bad relay?
 
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