BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I found a low-miles (13,000) 2012 RT locally and since I have no experience with this year/model, asking for advice for what to look for when I see it tomorrow (Tuesday).

Second owner, Corbin seat, looks very clean. Owner is selling because of back issues and the bike was originally purchased by a friend of his, so it's been "in the family" the entire time.

I have no experience with this engine/year and model, so would appreciate any cautions, words of wisdom from other forum members.

I'm coming from a K1600 GTL, so I know it's not going to be as smooth as my K bike.

Thanks guys!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
I've only owned my 2013 RT
(essentially the same bike) for a couple of years and 8,000 commuting miles so I may be a newbie compared to some, but I have had virtually no issues except for having to replace the clutch switch when the bike would not start in gear with the clutch engaged. Expensive switch, but you are already a BMW owner so you know what to expect for parts costs. I demo rode a K1600 GT at the Long Beach motorcycle show a few years ago, and thought at the time it did not have as much low en torque as my Tiger Explorer triple I had at the time. Short ride, no real conclusions. I'm sure you will find the RT a lot lighter than the GTL. Also, you will note the torque twist if you rev it at a standstill. Amusing, but you get used to it.

The 2010-2013 RT's are the last of the air/oil cooled models, so a little less maintenance without the radiator. Go enjoy!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
To echo the post above. I bought my 2013 anniversary edition used with a little over 19k miles in 2018. I’m at 77k now. The only thing major I’ve had to do was replace the upper shaft seal which was leaking. It’s that shaft boot right next to the tranny drain plug. While they were in there, had them inspect the clutch, it still was within spec. I do my own maintenance, and valve job. It’s pretty good to me, but I do go through tires lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Cat Herder
Joined
·
1,516 Posts
I had a 2011. Very nice bike and very smooth. Very easy to work on. It was the last series with a more upright sitting position. You can ride all day in comfort. I wouldn't worry to much about the mechanical aspect as long as the basic maintenance has been done (with owner records) and hopefully the bike get ridden somewhat often to keep the engine in good shape.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I've had a 2012 RT for the past 2 years, bought with 50K on the clock and 2 previous owners. Excellent bike all round and pretty straightforward to work on. I've just moved from the US to the UK and like the bike so much that I have exported it to the UK. Just need to change the headlight assembly so that it dips to the left (again, as with all things BMW, it's not cheap).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
So I found a low-miles (13,000) 2012 RT locally and since I have no experience with this year/model, asking for advice for what to look for when I see it tomorrow (Tuesday).

Second owner, Corbin seat, looks very clean. Owner is selling because of back issues and the bike was originally purchased by a friend of his, so it's been "in the family" the entire time.

I have no experience with this engine/year and model, so would appreciate any cautions, words of wisdom from other forum members.

I'm coming from a K1600 GTL, so I know it's not going to be as smooth as my K bike.

Thanks guys!
With this low mileage it is not yet run in. Mine has 14000 and is 2011. It has every enhancement there is and is my retirement present to myself. Easy to ride, easy to service, easy to clean - just easy. Still got oomph and while not the stonking acceleration of other big bikes it cruises all day long. This one looks like a deal. Take it quickly if the price is right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
So I found a low-miles (13,000) 2012 RT locally and since I have no experience with this year/model, asking for advice for what to look for when I see it tomorrow (Tuesday).

Second owner, Corbin seat, looks very clean. Owner is selling because of back issues and the bike was originally purchased by a friend of his, so it's been "in the family" the entire time.

I have no experience with this engine/year and model, so would appreciate any cautions, words of wisdom from other forum members.

I'm coming from a K1600 GTL, so I know it's not going to be as smooth as my K bike.

Thanks guys!
Well, did you get it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
I bought my 2012 Midnight Blue Metallic RT (low suspension model), brand new in late December of 2012. Although my "emotions" will always be bound up in my current and previous Ducatis, my '12 RT is the single best all-around motorcycle I've ever owned. I have about 27,000 miles on it as of now (would be more but it's one of three bikes in the stable) and it has been flawlessly excellent, so far. I also like its roots being in the old BMWs -- separate engine and gearbox, dry single plate diaphragm clutch, pipes coming out the front of the heads, all those things. It's got great character and always makes me feel special riding it. Nothing more I could ask of a bike.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tonyt.0906

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
That's a great bike, hardly broken in. I also have a 2012 and the late 2010 to 2013 models are considered some of the best and most reliable RTs out there. Buy it, change the oil, trans fluid, final drive fluid, brake fluid and lube the driveshaft splines front and rear. Replace the alternator belt due to age and consider the plugs and air filter. It will be due for a valve check if it wasn't done already. If you do your own work this will cost next to nothing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
That's a great bike, hardly broken in. I also have a 2012 and the late 2010 to 2013 models are considered some of the best and most reliable RTs out there. Buy it, change the oil, trans fluid, final drive fluid, brake fluid and lube the driveshaft splines front and rear. Replace the alternator belt due to age and consider the plugs and air filter. It will be due for a valve check if it wasn't done already. If you do your own work this will cost next to nothing.
Alternator belt change at 13,000 miles? Why?
 

·
Registered
'17 RTW; Dark Blue; Illium barbaks and crash bars; Sargent seat, Aeroflow Tall windscreen.
Joined
·
131 Posts
So I found a low-miles (13,000) 2012 RT locally and since I have no experience with this year/model, asking for advice for what to look for when I see it tomorrow (Tuesday).

Second owner, Corbin seat, looks very clean. Owner is selling because of back issues and the bike was originally purchased by a friend of his, so it's been "in the family" the entire time.

I have no experience with this engine/year and model, so would appreciate any cautions, words of wisdom from other forum members.

I'm coming from a K1600 GTL, so I know it's not going to be as smooth as my K bike.

Thanks guys!
I'd look for CRUISE CONROL. I don't think all of them had it in those years. I won't buy another bike without it. As meantiioned, they're pretty good engine-wise. I skipped that generation, going from 2005 to 2017. My 2005 was a big leap forward. These, I hear, are better. I have a friend with a GS with this valve configuration. He's had no issues and can't find anything he likes better....and his has no cruise....NA on GS in his year.
 

·
Registered
'17 RTW; Dark Blue; Illium barbaks and crash bars; Sargent seat, Aeroflow Tall windscreen.
Joined
·
131 Posts
Alternator belt change at 13,000 miles? Why?
I changed the belt on my 2005 one time in 80,000 miles. If you park it outside all the time, maybe. If you change it, pay very close attention to the tension on it. They use special tools at the factory to install and set the belt tension. Doing it with hand tools takes the right method. Get it wrong and you can have belt failure when you need it least, out on the road. JVB videos have a section on changing these.

Whatever bike you end up with, buy the JVB video for it and learn the bike. It's very good to know how they tick if you go into the wild with them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
I echo everything above. My first BMW ever was my current 2013 R1200. I got it almost exactly three years ago with only 6,200 miles. Easiest bike to maintain I've ever owned. Seriously, 2011-2013 (left 2010 off only due to the fuel strip thing) is the best RT generation. Bulletproof, comfortable, nimble, it's got it all!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
I bought my 2012 RT in 2016 with 4,300 miles on it. It now has only 87,000 miles on it. Check the switchgear, expensive to replace if anything doesn't work. £300 I think. I think my second set is starting to go now. All the brake calipers have been replaced but I do live 75metres from the sea. Apart from that the only problem has been a driveshaft. Michellin Pilot road 4Gt and 5GT last around 10,000 miles.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top