[GRB60]

Doing my first valve check at about 6200 miles. Exhausts are fine but all intakes are tight; a .127 gauge goes but the next, a .152, doesn't.
I'm thinking of going up three shim sizes (or .075 mm) to move them toward the upper side of the spec. Does that sound right?

 

[pipestone]

Intake spec is .13mm - .23mm...If the drag is loose on the feeler @ .127mm, I would say you are within spec. from your description.

What I observed with mine was spec opening up during the first 12,000 mi. I too had a few that were a little on the tight side...but within spec with a loose drag.

I personally would wait until then to make changes...but you may not have to with some more run in on the valve train.

 

[flienlow]

So is the issue with these valves is that they get too tight instead of loose?
How do you know if the feeler gauge is too tight or too loose? I am trying to figure out If I want to tackle my 12k service or not?

Also, do I need to buy the code reader and throttle sync tool? -Meaning is it necessary?

 

[150flyer]

Doing my first valve check at about 6200 miles. Exhausts are fine but all intakes are tight; a .127 gauge goes but the next, a .152, doesn't.
I'm thinking of going up three shim sizes (or .075 mm) to move them toward the upper side of the spec. Does that sound right?

If your feeler guages are like mine, they start with .038mm, .051mm, .063mm, .076mm, .127mm, .152mm... and keep going up. You can add a couple of guages together to get a more accurate reading. For instance, you can add the .063mm and .076mm to get .139mm which falls between .127mm and .152mm. See what the .139mm feels like before deciding on shims. You might want to choose shims that put you more in the mid range like .18 since you don't know if the valves will continue to tighten.

 

[150flyer]

So is the issue with these valves is that they get too tight instead of loose?
How do you know if the feeler gauge is too tight or too loose? I am trying to figure out If I want to tackle my 12k service or not?

Also, do I need to buy the code reader and throttle sync tool? -Meaning is it necessary?

You don't have to buy a code reader but it would allow you to see if you have any fault codes. It would also allow you to re-set the next service date and milage. Your dealer will most likely charge you to do this. You do need the throttle body sync tool like a Twin Max or similar to do the sync.

 

[GRB60]

Thanks for the feedback. Pipestone is right; I believe they are all technically within spec, but so close that they must be moving in that direction. The factory would have set more to the middle. Maybe I'll split the difference and go down two shim sizes.

 

[beech]

Also, do I need to buy the code reader and throttle sync tool? -Meaning is it necessary?

The new RT R1200RT, you only need to make the throttle cables equal length for the throttle sync. (web search for procedure) The step motors on each throttle body sync the units each time the bike goes through the computer start up sequence. Tune up consists of checking the valve clearance, plugs as needed and fluids. There are other smaller maintenance items to check of course, but in general the R12RT is simple to maintain including the brake bleed which is like days of old, no more fiddling with the ABS unit.
If you own a BMW motorcycle, someone in your group of friends should own a GS-911.

 

[beech]

I have posted this site before but here it is for the new guys, care of the kind folks at San Jose BMW. A pictorial how to for 2010 cam head valve adjustment.
http://sanjosebmw.smugmug.com/Other/Tech-pictures/10976964_bHf66/1#!p=1&n=10

 

[05Train]

The new RT R1200RT, you only need to make the throttle cables equal length for the throttle sync. (web search for procedure) The step motors on each throttle body sync the units each time the bike goes through the computer start up sequence. Tune up consists of checking the valve clearance, plugs as needed and fluids. There are other smaller maintenance items to check of course, but in general the R12RT is simple to maintain including the brake bleed which is like days of old, no more fiddling with the ABS unit.
If you own a BMW motorcycle, someone in your group of friends should own a GS-911.

So you're saying that the Camheads don't require the TwinMax or any other tool to balance the TBs?

 

[beech]

So you're saying that the Camheads don't require the TwinMax or any other tool to balance the TBs?

That is correct. Just a careful cable adjustment so the throttle bodies open at the same time. There is a description somewhere on the web about it. There is a preference as to which side to mess with on the cable adjustment, off hand I can't remember and I am not convenced it matters.

 

[05Train]

That is correct. Just a careful cable adjustment so the throttle bodies open at the same time. There is a description somewhere on the web about it. There is a preference as to which side to mess with on the cable adjustment, off hand I can't remember and I am not convenced it matters.

Wow, I'll have to see if I can find that. It's interesting, since the service department at Bob's told me it'd be about a hundred bucks to do the balance.

 

[Alfred02]

Wow, I'll have to see if I can find that. It's interesting, since the service department at Bob's told me it'd be about a hundred bucks to do the balance.

That would be as they have to take all that Tupperware off.
Now unless there is some new magical trick, I can't see how they could do the balancing without some kind of vacuum device.
And yes, the preferred side is the RHS.

 

[JayJay]

Hard for me to see how you could do a credible throttle body sync without some way of measuring the TB vacuum (i.e., manometers, TwinMax or whatever). I think that the cable end is threaded M6x1, so that means that a full turn of the adjusting nut is 1 mm movement (or about 1/25 of an inch). On my bike, half a turn on the adjustment is a big offset. So to sync using only visual cable adjustment you'd have to be able to see 0.5 mm (1/50 of an inch, 0.020"). I can't do that.

It took until well into the 20K+ miles for my TB sync to settle down so that all I do now is check it, haven't had to readjust for quite a while. I must be getting more consistent with my valve adjustments.

JayJay

 

[flienlow]

The new RT R1200RT, you only need to make the throttle cables equal length for the throttle sync. (web search for procedure) The step motors on each throttle body sync the units each time the bike goes through the computer start up sequence. Tune up consists of checking the valve clearance, plugs as needed and fluids. There are other smaller maintenance items to check of course, but in general the R12RT is simple to maintain including the brake bleed which is like days of old, no more fiddling with the ABS unit.
If you own a BMW motorcycle, someone in your group of friends should own a GS-911.

I think me and a buddy may be going in together on the special tools. I figure about $600 so that would be $300 a piece. We are still trying to figure out if being cheap (doing our own maintenance) is worth it. I have the how to dvd on order so we'll determine that when it gets here.

What is your experience? Do you do all of your own? do you have all the special tools?
-We are in snohomish AND WOULD LOVE to have a new friend. hint hint :bowdown: :wave

 

[New2rt]

You're not syncing the TB's at idle. you're doing it off idle.
Once off idle the stepper motors are pretty much useless you need to use the sync tool of your choice to get an accurate reading.
You're doing the sync to compensate for any irregularities which can be numerous.
Do it after a valve check/adjust because that can and will change the balance.
If you have to adjust the balance do the side that requires you to loosen the adjuster to avoid removing free play which can cause more issues if the throttle plates don't hit the stops.

The purpose is to balance the cylinders and compensate for any irregularities and there is no way you're going to do this by measuring cable slack.

 

[JayJay]

I think me and a buddy may be going in together on the special tools. I figure about $600 so that would be $300 a piece. We are still trying to figure out if being cheap (doing our own maintenance) is worth it. I have the how to dvd on order so we'll determine that when it gets here.

What is your experience? Do you do all of your own? do you have all the special tools?

In my neck of the woods -

$300 = ~3.5 hours of shop labor = two services = 12,000 mile payback
Satisfaction you get from knowing it was done right = priceless.

For everything else there is MasterCard. (And, FWIW, "everything else" of routine maintenance that I leave to the shop is ABS hydraulics (I don't trust myself with dinking around with the ABS system) and mounting/balancing tires.)

JayJay

 

[beech]

Here is one version. They are using a twin max to equalize the throttle length (opening of the throttle body at the same time each side).
http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-17496.html
You can do it with a GS-911 also.
Here is another source;
http://www.jimvonbaden.com/R1200_TB_Sync.html
All you are doing is equalizing the cable action. Any thoughts of making things equal at 3 or 4K RPM and no load (not moving) are fooling yourself.

 

[New2rt]

You're concern when doing a TB sync is flow. You want it equal right to left, the Cable slack right to left is of no concern other then you want some to allow the throttle plate to fully close against the stop.

The TB sync would be more of a concern on the cam head due to the shim adjustment, it would be difficult to get the intake valves exactly the same on one side let alone both sides.
The sync will compensate for the unequal flow and the reason for doing it, set it at 2k RPM's and then check at 3k, 4k, 5k RPM's. Once set at 2k it will most likely be the same form 2k up.

The TB's are factory set at closed throttle using the throttle stop screw then sealed. Leave these screws alone.

I doubt you'll ever see a BMW tech towing the GT1 behind him while he checks the sync.
Setting under load is not required or even recommended by the mother land.

 

[New2rt]

If you want to figure out which cable to adjust, while watching your sync tool of choice pull up on one of the cables. If using a twin max and the needle is reading to the left of center and pulling the left cable causes it to sweep to the right, loosen the right cable or tighten the left, if it sweeps further left of center loosen the left or tighten the right.
When done you want minimal but some play in each cable. that will help determine which one to adjust.
If you end up with one cable having 1mm of play and the other having 1.5mm of play that's OK, it's all about the flow, which is what the sync tool is measuring.

 

[beech]

Here is a ton of great information on RT tune up (sync). Got to thinking about it with all the discussion. Also, follow the link to our brother site, sports touring. Get ready for 20 minutes of info.
http://www.hexcode.co.za/techinfo/iac