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Hi all,

I just had the 600 mile service completed on my 2011 RT (along with replacing the left turn signal switch under warranty).

On the ride home, I checked all the functions to make sure they didn't stop working because of the turn signal switch replacement, and I noticed that it seemed to be idling pretty rough.

I'm in Pickerington, Ohio and the weather was in the 70's. It seemed to hover right around 1,100 to 1,200 RPMs everytime I stopped on the way home (about a 20 minute ride).

Since this was my first service, is this normal for the break-in period?

I searched / read some posts about these bikes not really breaking in until around 8k to 10k miles, and that there is no way to manually adjust the idle.

Just wondering if I need to take it back to have them look at it. Thanks!
 

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You are correct that the bike is not even close to being broken in, (don't baby it now that you are past the first 600). They really are finished about 15 to 18,000 miles in my opinion but good at 8 or 10k. There is no way to mess with the idle. And it is in the correct range 1100 or so. If it is really rough point it out to the dealer or check with another rider for comparison. They run rough for awhile and smooth out when they have miles on them.
 

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I've got about 4200 or so on mine and it seems to be smoother than it was at 600. I don't recall noticing a difference pre and post 600 mile service, but I had it done while I was out of the country for a bit, so a couple of weeks had lapsed between rides.

Also, I quickly read the title and thought you were saying 2,011,600 mile service at first...
 

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Check your paperwork. They may have messed with the throttle body sync and made it worse.
 

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If your idle is rough and out of spec after a service check the throttle bodies. Dealers have been known to leave the purge line off the left or the cap off the right TB's (the purge line was on the left and the cap on the right up to 09, they might be swapped 10 and up I'm not sure)
You don't need to pull the plastic just shine a light on the outside rear of the TB's, if you see a shiny brass tube with nothing on it that would be the problem.
 

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Keep in mind that an opposed big twin doesn't idle like other engines. There's going to be a different feel in vibration. If the engine idles ok and the bike doesn't die, just a bit 'less smooth' than you think you recall after the service, try to keep in mind that with only 600 miles on it, you really don't have much to compare the current v. pre-service idle to. As you become accustom to how it feels at idle, you may realize what now feels 'rough', is actually a normal idle for the bike. 1,1-1,200 is the correct idle range.

If the little cap isn't there, putting one on will fix it [I doubt this is the problem]. Any 1/4 inch ID rubber cap from your nearest auto parts joint will work. If that's not the problem, and it's really rough, I'd suggest you take it back to your dealer and have them balance the injectors [again]. Generally speaking, unless there was a problem, they shouldn't have screwed with the injectors on the 600 mile service but you never know.

At that mileage, these engines can and do idle a bit rougher than when they get broken in and past the 25,000 mile point. Up until you hit that magic number, believe it or not, it's still breaking in. On some bikes, the difference is dramatic, on others less so, but still noticeable. Either way - as you get some miles on the bike - you're going to notice a far smother feel as you pass 6,000 mile increments. Odd but that's the way the are.
 

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When you turn on your ignition, wait for the various flashing instrument lights to do their dance and settle down before hitting the starter button. I usually do this on my '06 RT and it seems to help smooth out the idle, letting the idle stepper motors find their positions. I've also read some anecdotes that suggest this short delay prolongs headlight bulb life. It's at least worth a try before going back to the dealer (Motohio?)
 

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... call the service guy and take it back.

He will likely try the standard replies... they all do that, it is normal, etc... take it back.
 

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Mine was real smooth before the 600, just a little rough after and really rough currently (I'm due for the 6k). I'm thinking the throttle cables stretch a little as the bike gets used and will let the dealer take care of it when its in.
I agree you should call the dealer and take it back in. If it is noticeably rough it ain't right.
 

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As per the other posts the idle at 1,100 - 1,200 is correct but it should not be rough. i would take it back in and have it looked at.
 

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Aren't the valves adjusted at the 600 mile service? If the adjustment was done when the bike was even slightly warm, I could potentially see valves being out of adjustment and causing the roughness. An identical complaint was made by a rider friend of mine on an R1200R, after his valves were adjusted with the engine warm.

If the valves were not done with the engine cold, I'd suggest thinking about bringing the bike to the shop one evening and picking it up the next day, and requesting that the valves be re-done in the morning with the engine cold.
 

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Dream on if you think dealership mechanics actually do a valve adjustment at every service.
A vacuum diff computer check more likely and adjusting only if it shows as needed. Opening up and getting out the feeler gauges or micrometer is a "when necessary" thing.
 

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racer7 said:
Dream on if you think dealership mechanics actually do a valve adjustment at every service.
A vacuum diff computer check more likely and adjusting only if it shows as needed. Opening up and getting out the feeler gauges or micrometer is a "when necessary" thing.
I've had service, or been around services being done while at several dealerships. Never seen one skip a valve check when it was due. Perhaps I have just been fortunate.
 

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SPXDR said:
Aren't the valves adjusted at the 600 mile service? .
According to my dealer, the bikes from 2010+ , it is not necessary to check the valves on first 600 miles.
 

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Yes, all the above is true... but, and it is a big butt...

If it was smooth when it went in and rough when it came out... take it back.

Break-in has nothing to do with this condition.
 

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hopz said:
Yes, all the above is true... but, and it is a big butt...

If it was smooth when it went in and rough when it came out... take it back.

Break-in has nothing to do with this condition.
I agree with Hopz (as usual) - if it's worse when you get it back than when it went in, something's not right.

If it's really rough the first place I'd check is the TB vacuum nipples that the mechanics hook the sync gauge up to. Really easy to put the plastic back on having forgotten to replace the line (left side) or cap (right side). BTDT.

JayJay
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks everyone - I really appreciate all of the replies. I checked a few things out, and all seems ok. I had the chance to ride it to work and I guess the idle is something I will need to get used to (as far as the 1,100 / 1,200 RPM).

I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days as it looks like I should be able to ride everyday to work.
 
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