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Discussion Starter #1
First ride this week on the 2010RT after the winter - only done 160 miles since new !
When I am riding slowly at say 20mph and the bike is floating between overrun and power I feel as though the bike is rocking / jerking back and forward slightly. Could this be a fuelling issue. The dealer says there are things they can look at when it gets its 600 mile service in a couple of weeks. Anyone any comment ?

I spent a lot of time on yesterdays ride playing with the ESA - or more accurately straining to see the display - got a good view of my jacket reflection though.

I ended up with the 'Normal' setting and preload set for one up plus luggage on the dash as I had the panniers on and the large topbox - all empty though.

Any advice on the best setting for solo riding with regard to the pre load - should I just leave it set on solo unless I have loaded luggage. I did wonder whether the to and fro rocking I have described could be a suspension issue rather than fuelling.

But the main thing is the bike is really nice - a good move from my Kawasaki GTR - who needs 150BHP anyway.

Cheers
Kev
 

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Best Guess is the Throttle bodies need to be snyc'd, not a big deal.
 

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BigKev said:
First ride this week on the 2010RT after the winter - only done 160 miles since new !
When I am riding slowly at say 20mph and the bike is floating between overrun and power I feel as though the bike is rocking / jerking back and forward slightly. Could this be a fuelling issue. The dealer says there are things they can look at when it gets its 600 mile service in a couple of weeks. Anyone any comment ?

I spent a lot of time on yesterdays ride playing with the ESA - or more accurately straining to see the display - got a good view of my jacket reflection though.

I ended up with the 'Normal' setting and preload set for one up plus luggage on the dash as I had the panniers on and the large topbox - all empty though.

Any advice on the best setting for solo riding with regard to the pre load - should I just leave it set on solo unless I have loaded luggage. I did wonder whether the to and fro rocking I have described could be a suspension issue rather than fuelling.

But the main thing is the bike is really nice - a good move from my Kawasaki GTR - who needs 150BHP anyway.

Cheers
Kev
Hi BigKev,

At the slower speeds you describe it could be simply drive line slop. Some call it drive line snatch, or slack. I noticed this right off on my own 2010, had the throttle bodies checked and they were perfect. My 07' Triumph Scrambler has the same symptoms. Now, even further back in time, my 1980 RT (see icon photo) did it for all 22 years of ownership. Never hurt a thing. You'll just have to practice (correctly) slow speed riding using the clutch to "smooth it out."
Enjoy that new bike!
 

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amarider said:
Best Guess is the Throttle bodies need to be snyc'd, not a big deal.
Funny you should say that i just took mine for its 1st yearly service 2400 miles and the throttle bodies needed adjustment.Alls well again now could be the same thing Kev same year bike.
 

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Not sure about the fuel surge.

Re your settings query...
I ride solo mostly and on comfort setting. Around town the bike performs well and handles most terrain easily.

On my recent trip also did comfort but on a luggage stteing as I had loaded panners and top box. Only changed on the twisties to sport and it made a big difference.

Hardly used e normal setting.

With a pillion always on the 2 rider setting.
 

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Kev - Don't know if you have experience riding a bike with a drive shaft verses a chain; however, there is some driveline lurching, or slop, at low speed. As mentioned, it might also be synchronization of the throttle bodies. In response to your suspension setting question (ESA), I set mine on Normal with luggage when riding solo as I almost always have the bags and top case on when riding.
 

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My 2009 does the same thing at very low load (slow speed). Takes getting used to, but it's probably normal.

I always ride with panniers (some junk) and a loaded tank bag. Suspension is always set for loaded with luggage, on the freeway I use "Comfort" and on surface streets/twisties I use "Sport". Seldom use "Normal".

JayJay
 

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RidgeRunner said:
Kev - Don't know if you have experience riding a bike with a drive shaft verses a chain; however, there is some driveline lurching, or slop, at low speed. As mentioned, it might also be synchronization of the throttle bodies. In response to your suspension setting question (ESA), I set mine on Normal with luggage when riding solo as I almost always have the bags and top case on when riding.
The C14 is shaft drive too.
 

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BigKev said:
First ride this week on the 2010RT after the winter - only done 160 miles since new !
When I am riding slowly at say 20mph and the bike is floating between overrun and power I feel as though the bike is rocking / jerking back and forward slightly. Could this be a fuelling issue. The dealer says there are things they can look at when it gets its 600 mile service in a couple of weeks. Anyone any comment ?

I spent a lot of time on yesterdays ride playing with the ESA - or more accurately straining to see the display - got a good view of my jacket reflection though.

I ended up with the 'Normal' setting and preload set for one up plus luggage on the dash as I had the panniers on and the large topbox - all empty though.

Any advice on the best setting for solo riding with regard to the pre load - should I just leave it set on solo unless I have loaded luggage. I did wonder whether the to and fro rocking I have described could be a suspension issue rather than fuelling.

But the main thing is the bike is really nice - a good move from my Kawasaki GTR - who needs 150BHP anyway.

Cheers
Kev
How would you compare the C14 to the RT? especially on ergonomics, but stuff like braking too.
 

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Kev, besides all the things mentioned above, your engine is still tight as a tick. Give it a few miles to loosen up. (and now that you have a couple of hundred don't forget to run it hard up to the recommended rev limits once and a while, it will like it.)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all of your responses.
With regard to surging I have ridden shafties a lot so I am aware of the unforgiving drive train. Did more miles yesterday and the surging does not depend on speed or revs or gears - the only thing that brings it on is having the throttle JUST cracked open - like riding through a town. I am pretty convinced its throttle synch and the dealer has said they will do it at 600 service.

With regard to Ponchs question re GTR / RT comparison. Chalk and cheese. The GTR had a more lean forward position and put weight on the wrists. On long runs I had pains across the shoulders and numb hand due to high freq vibes. I tried a different seat and bar risers but it still didnt feel right. I guess at 6 foot five I am not made for bikes. The upright position on the RT gives a great view but puts a bit more strain on my lower back but so does picking up the post these days ! Brakes and handling better on RT. Screen better on RT. Power on GTR just amazing but I am adjusting to the RT. Selecting first gear on the RT is noise free compared to GTR clunk. The RT has a engine load related vibe but it is not an issue - high freq buzz has always been the killer for me. Overall I prefer the RT no contest - mainly due to the twin / flywheel effect that you get compared to fours - I think its called character !

Cheers Kev
 

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BigKev said:
Thanks for all of your responses.
With regard to surging I have ridden shafties a lot so I am aware of the unforgiving drive train. Did more miles yesterday and the surging does not depend on speed or revs or gears - the only thing that brings it on is having the throttle JUST cracked open - like riding through a town. I am pretty convinced its throttle synch and the dealer has said they will do it at 600 service.

With regard to Ponchs question re GTR / RT comparison. Chalk and cheese. The GTR had a more lean forward position and put weight on the wrists. On long runs I had pains across the shoulders and numb hand due to high freq vibes. I tried a different seat and bar risers but it still didnt feel right. I guess at 6 foot five I am not made for bikes. The upright position on the RT gives a great view but puts a bit more strain on my lower back but so does picking up the post these days ! Brakes and handling better on RT. Screen better on RT. Power on GTR just amazing but I am adjusting to the RT. Selecting first gear on the RT is noise free compared to GTR clunk. The RT has a engine load related vibe but it is not an issue - high freq buzz has always been the killer for me. Overall I prefer the RT no contest - mainly due to the twin / flywheel effect that you get compared to fours - I think its called character !

Cheers Kev
Putting bar risers and peg lowering kit on the C14 makes it about like the RT is stock, and I find the stock RT needs a little more room (I am 6'5 too, 34"inseam). I just put bar risers on the RT. Makes it like a UJM and a lot like the GSA. Peg lowering kit next.

You will find the bike gets smoother as it breaks in and seems to make more power. It's very incremental though. I have about 750 miles on mine and it just gets better over time.
 
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