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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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So, which brown wire? any brown wire? What's a/the brown wire normally for? Just trying to understand from a zoomed out perspective. o_O
Brown wires are ALWAYS an electrical ground in the BMW world while the chassis/frame is not.
 
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Brown wires are ALWAYS an electrical ground in the BMW world while the chassis/frame is not.
heaven forbid if they used black wires for ground
 
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Just wanted to provide an update for the next person getting into a project like this. Managed to pull the ABS module and extract a portion of the old plumbing. I am so far into this now that I am thinking I will put in a new air and fuel filter since half the plastic is off. I must say that I can not understand the logic of why BMW designed this bike such that it is necessary to remove so many components and even the gas tank just to change an air filter. The fuel filter location and change process is even more confusing. I guess they don't want people keeping old bikes and want them to get a new one every year. Not everyone is wealthy though, I never bought a new bike my entire 65 year life. I cant imagine what the dealer charge would be to replace an air filter. I digress. I was able to leave the ABS and battery box in place and did not have to unbolt any of it. Getting to the 2 bolts for the ABS was another story, I had to remove the side panel just to get to the 2 bolts. They are a 5 star head but a hex head socket will work on them. The 2 bleeders were in the way so I took them off the ABS module, tilted it back and it pulled right out from the side.
My lines arrived from Spiegler and they will go on later today so the brakes will be 100% functional. One of the pictures shows the old and new plumbing. I cant open the ABS module yet but the 5 star security bits are on order and I should have them next week. That will be my next post after I disconnect the pumps and make the wiring modifications. I am trying to decide how much of the ABS module I will actually put back in.
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Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive fuel system
Gesture Grey Art Gas Tints and shades
 

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Just wanted to provide an update for the next person getting into a project like this. Managed to pull the ABS module and extract a portion of the old plumbing. I am so far into this now that I am thinking I will put in a new air and fuel filter since half the plastic is off. I must say that I can not understand the logic of why BMW designed this bike such that it is necessary to remove so many components and even the gas tank just to change an air filter. The fuel filter location and change process is even more confusing. I guess they don't want people keeping old bikes and want them to get a new one every year. Not everyone is wealthy though, I never bought a new bike my entire 65 year life. I cant imagine what the dealer charge would be to replace an air filter. I digress. I was able to leave the ABS and battery box in place and did not have to unbolt any of it. Getting to the 2 bolts for the ABS was another story, I had to remove the side panel just to get to the 2 bolts. They are a 5 star head but a hex head socket will work on them. The 2 bleeders were in the way so I took them off the ABS module, tilted it back and it pulled right out from the side.
My lines arrived from Spiegler and they will go on later today so the brakes will be 100% functional. One of the pictures shows the old and new plumbing. I cant open the ABS module yet but the 5 star security bits are on order and I should have them next week. That will be my next post after I disconnect the pumps and make the wiring modifications. I am trying to decide how much of the ABS module I will actually put back in. View attachment 179765
View attachment 179764 View attachment 179763
The ABS module actually just has a couple of retaining screws mounted either end at the top. Just undo those and the module should just unplug for the tray. That part is actually easy. getting it our from between the frame was the fun part for me for a while.
The only part of the ABS module you need to put back in is the very end bit with the plug attached. You leave the board mounted in the alloy end cap and what I did was use the lid of a plastic junction box that was of the same size and secured that over the opening to protect the board from dirt and the weather.
 

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I love this bike. I'm the first owner. I've ridden from east to west coast USA a couple times on it, and developed a real fondness for it. I bought a Russell saddle early on, ELF pegs, cup holder and upgraded all the lamps to LEDs. With some sadness, I did the "security system-ectomy" when the 10 year battery ran out which forfeited remote locking and ground lighting, but hey, she still got me around in style, and I very rarely used the locks before. Then the brake-light idiot lamps started random alarms. I patched around a broken rear hall effect sensor cable and was out of the woods for a while. I replaced the original flexible brake lines with Spieglers and did all the regular (and major) maintenance on schedule and even watched things with my trusty GS-911 tool and yet, to my great dismay, iABS failure. High pressure in the rear leg that I could not resolve. I was SICK of the brake warning lamp, and refused to invest in a possible lame replacement. She's getting older...but so is my wife and I'm not giving up on her either!

So, I plumbed-around the iABS with about 16 hours of joyful shop time and $127.45 in Spiegler custom lines. 10 hours of that shop time was stripping, tank removal, cleaning, and reassembly.

FYI, They shipped a 12.5 degree fitting instead of the 20 on front, so I may have used the wrong part number, but it fits just fine!
Custom Brake Lines | Motorcycle Brake Lines | Spiegler USA is the online store if you want to tweak your order.

You can clip the verbiage below and email it to Brian: [email protected] for a quote.
Shipping for me was three days from order (OH to PA).

Need quote for:
BMW K1200LT 2009 Rear Master Cylinder to existing frame mounted connector.
• Fitting - F1: Fitting-019-10mm - M10-Aluminum x 1 (90 degree banjo)
• Fitting - F2: Fitting-410-10mm - M10-Stainless Steel x 1 (straight M10 concave / 11mm wrench)
• Length A: Clear x 610mm (24 inches)

BMW K1200LT 2009 Front Master Cylinder to existing 3-way fork mounted connector.
• Fitting - F1: Fitting-Silver-002-10mm - M10-Aluminum x 1 (20 degree banjo)
• Fitting - F2: Fitting-410-10mm - M10-Stainless Steel x 1 (straight M10 concave / 11mm wrench)
• Length A: Clear x 864mm (34 inches)

I used 12 ounces of brake fluid to bleed the lines (was alone and sloppy) and maybe four tie wraps.
You will reuse your banjo bolts, and your lines will come with new crush washers included.

I pulled the two small cable connectors from the top of the ABS, and on the large connector I snipped #9 ("!" LED energizer) and #10 wire, and soldered the long end of the #10 wire to the otherwise intact fat brown wire on the same connector (#30 ground). That energizes the relay that turns off the brake warning lamp flasher for good. An alternate method is to remove that relay (the white one I believe) but its kind of a pain to get to, adding time to the project.

No warning lamps ever again. Brakes work great now, but I can easily lock up and skid the wheels if I try.
Front and rear are no longer linked, another thing to get used to. I'm delighted with the results.
I have too much money in this bike now so when I removed the whizzy brakes I made my own frt loop using the fittings off of the existing lines.The rear I used the existing fitting at the rear pedal and added it to the existing rear line from the pump to the rear flex hose,cut it and bent to go to the rear pedal.Removed the blue relay and cut the wire at the module.Sealed the circuit board and mounted it in the battery holder.All good now.Sad part is that it can't be certified for me to sell it even though it's safer now.I probably should have saved the original lines but I'm pretty sure the pump will never go back in this bike.lol.
 
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