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I went out to the shed and looked over the delete project as far as the custom lines. I am going to have a line made that goes directly from the rear master cylinder to the caliper. The front will be a T line running from the front master cylinder and splitting off to each caliper just above the rear of the front fender and connecting directly to the caliper. I will call Spiegler Performance Parts tomorrow to make certain I get the correct banjo for the front master at the handle bar. It is a compound bend so I want to make certain what they fab up fits in the plastic cover.
I will work on the electrical mods while I wait for the custom lines to arrive. Funny thing is my 1995 R1100rs lets me turn off the ABS.
Happy to see your post. Thanks
Tire Wheel Vehicle Plant Automotive lighting
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Fuel tank
 

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Ok, so what happens if you have a tyre blow out and wipe out a family on a pedestrian crossing? Do you think that the insurance assessor will turn a blind eye to a safety modification, undeclared? I gather that in America, the third party will own you and everything you have if you find that you are uninsured after a claim? Frankly ( with respect) that feels the same irresponsibility as driving under the influence. I'm not saying don't do the modification, just make sure that the change is declared.
And just how does ABS help when a tire blows out?
 

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In my mind I have made the bike safer and less likely to take out that innocent family.
I have no argument with your reasoning, just the fact that it will invalidate your insurance cover at the time when it is critical. Insurance companies don't need much of an excuse to refuse a claim, but undeclared braking modifications are guaranteed to leave you without cover.
 

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I have no argument with your reasoning, just the fact that it will invalidate your insurance cover at the time when it is critical. Insurance companies don't need much of an excuse to refuse a claim, but undeclared braking modifications are guaranteed to leave you without cover.
You are of course quite correct and I take what you are saying on board. It is something I need to think about and should do something about. It's a risk but everything about riding motorcycles is a risk.
I heard a sad story recently associated with the spate of natural disasters we recently had here in Australia. There was a young couple who had a rural property and had been renovating their house. A bush fire went through and they lost everything. They were insured but the insurance company found out they occasionally sold eggs that their chickens produced out at the front gate with an honesty box. Literally chicken feed in what they would make from such a little venture. The insurance company said you should have told us you were running a business from the property and denied the claim.
Heartless bastards.
 

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And just how does ABS help when a tire blows out?
Your comment reminds me about a time when a manager of a steel warehouse asked me if I could make his machines idiot proof. I said that sir is impossible, the idiot always finds a way.
So if your tire blows out it's like the idiot trumping the sophisticated ABS system. Or in the case of our beloved LT. Not so sophisticated.
 

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I went out to the shed and looked over the delete project as far as the custom lines. I am going to have a line made that goes directly from the rear master cylinder to the caliper. The front will be a T line running from the front master cylinder and splitting off to each caliper just above the rear of the front fender and connecting directly to the caliper. I will call Spiegler Performance Parts tomorrow to make certain I get the correct banjo for the front master at the handle bar. It is a compound bend so I want to make certain what they fab up fits in the plastic cover.
I will work on the electrical mods while I wait for the custom lines to arrive. Funny thing is my 1995 R1100rs lets me turn off the ABS.
Happy to see your post. Thanks
View attachment 179712 View attachment 179713
Your front circuit modification doesn't need to be that complicated. You just need a very short U shaped line that completes the circuit from front brake down to the wheel circuits. If you follow your brake line up from your front calipers you will see it goes to a small block on the right side of the steering head. The line from the front brake lever goes down to that same small block. From there two lines go off to your ABS. One to the ABS and one back from the ABS for your front circuit. If you delete the to and from lines and just join the line from your front lever with the line down to your front wheel at that point you only need a short piece of line with a connector at both ends. That short line is no more than about 100mm long.
 

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I went out to the shed and looked over the delete project as far as the custom lines. I am going to have a line made that goes directly from the rear master cylinder to the caliper. The front will be a T line running from the front master cylinder and splitting off to each caliper just above the rear of the front fender and connecting directly to the caliper. I will call Spiegler Performance Parts tomorrow to make certain I get the correct banjo for the front master at the handle bar. It is a compound bend so I want to make certain what they fab up fits in the plastic cover.
I will work on the electrical mods while I wait for the custom lines to arrive. Funny thing is my 1995 R1100rs lets me turn off the ABS.
Happy to see your post. Thanks
View attachment 179712 View attachment 179713
Your electrical mods are also not really that difficult. You need to retain the circuit board in your ABS unit but you need to disconnect the two pump motors from that board so they aren't continuously operating. They unplug from the board. There should be one relay to remove and there should be one signal wire in the ABS plug to cut to prevent your warning lights from flashing all the time. Although in your case you could remove the bulb in the dash but that also is more disassembly and as you are already at the ABS plug you may as well just clip that wire. I think on your bike it should be pin 9 at the ABS plug and the wire should be brown and red stripe. I clipped mine a couple of inches back from the plug so that if I need to rejoin the wire I could easily splice it rather than trying to mess with the pin connection.
 

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I have no argument with your reasoning, just the fact that it will invalidate your insurance cover at the time when it is critical. Insurance companies don't need much of an excuse to refuse a claim, but undeclared braking modifications are guaranteed to leave you without cover.
I suspect this is true, assuming someone was to dig into the bike enough and spot the changes. Having said all of that you can declare the vehicle has no ABS as well. In fact, I've heard in other vehicle forums that this has reduced their insurance costs. Apparently, and take this with a grain of salt as it's pure hearsay, "Very old ABS systems are a liability.". Mind you, this was talking about removing the ABS unit from a mid-90s Toyota Land Cruiser. Nevertheless, you can declare the bike does not have ABS and pay an adjusted rate.
 

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I have no argument with your reasoning, just the fact that it will invalidate your insurance cover at the time when it is critical. Insurance companies don't need much of an excuse to refuse a claim, but undeclared braking modifications are guaranteed to leave you without cover.
No, it will not invalidate your insurance! Not here in Great Britain anyway. I did the ABS bypass on my last K1200LT, spoke to my insurer( Carole Nash) and told them what I'd done. Was told that it was no problem, I requested a letter from them to confirm what I was told, which they duly sent me, I still have the letter! I actually had the ABS fail on me, coming off a motorway slip road; an oh shit moment I can tell you.

I am now on the look-out for another LT, and without hesitation, before I even put it on the road, I will be getting rid of the ABS. I'm old enough, and have been riding long enough(since 1966) to know how to ride a motorcycle without ABS.

ABS=Absolutely Bloody Shit, especially BMW ABS.
 

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No, it will not invalidate your insurance! Not here in Great Britain anyway. I did the ABS bypass on my last K1200LT, spoke to my insurer( Carole Nash) and told them what I'd done. Was told that it was no problem, I requested a letter from them to confirm what I was told, which they duly sent me, I still have the letter!
Exactly right. If the insurance company knows and agrees to it, then cover will not be affected at all. This is why I am surprised at the attitude that what they don't know, doesn't matter. However, modify the braking system incognito and get into an accident and you would be in a whole world of problems.

I am dealing with AXA at the moment over a flat roof claim from February, still unpaid. They are looking for the tiniest detail to refuse the claim, including a scurrilous allegation that they didn't know that there was a flat roof. Funny how they are unable to come up with any paperwork though!

By the way, give RH Insurance a try on renewal, probably the only insurance company that appears to have the customer at heart. They dealt with a flooded car claim quickly and to mutual satisfaction. No admin fees and no Premium rate calls. Call centre not offshore.
 

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Your front circuit modification doesn't need to be that complicated. You just need a very short U shaped line that completes the circuit from front brake down to the wheel circuits. If you follow your brake line up from your front calipers you will see it goes to a small block on the right side of the steering head. The line from the front brake lever goes down to that same small block. From there two lines go off to your ABS. One to the ABS and one back from the ABS for your front circuit. If you delete the to and from lines and just join the line from your front lever with the line down to your front wheel at that point you only need a short piece of line with a connector at both ends. That short line is no more than about 100mm long.
I am having one complete h shaped line made that goes from the front master and splits to the two front calipers because I want all new Teflon lined, nylon coated, braided stainless steel lines. I don't want to use any of the old system other than master cylinders and calipers. Same with the rear. It will go from the caliper to the cylinder with no interruptions. Just personal preference i guess.
 

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I love this bike. I'm the first owner. I've ridden from east to west coast USA a couple times on it, and developed a real fondness for it. I bought a Russell saddle early on, ELF pegs, cup holder and upgraded all the lamps to LEDs. With some sadness, I did the "security system-ectomy" when the 10 year battery ran out which forfeited remote locking and ground lighting, but hey, she still got me around in style, and I very rarely used the locks before. Then the brake-light idiot lamps started random alarms. I patched around a broken rear hall effect sensor cable and was out of the woods for a while. I replaced the original flexible brake lines with Spieglers and did all the regular (and major) maintenance on schedule and even watched things with my trusty GS-911 tool and yet, to my great dismay, iABS failure. High pressure in the rear leg that I could not resolve. I was SICK of the brake warning lamp, and refused to invest in a possible lame replacement. She's getting older...but so is my wife and I'm not giving up on her either!

So, I plumbed-around the iABS with about 16 hours of joyful shop time and $127.45 in Spiegler custom lines. 10 hours of that shop time was stripping, tank removal, cleaning, and reassembly.

FYI, They shipped a 12.5 degree fitting instead of the 20 on front, so I may have used the wrong part number, but it fits just fine!
Custom Brake Lines | Motorcycle Brake Lines | Spiegler USA is the online store if you want to tweak your order.

You can clip the verbiage below and email it to Brian: [email protected] for a quote.
Shipping for me was three days from order (OH to PA).

Need quote for:
BMW K1200LT 2009 Rear Master Cylinder to existing frame mounted connector.
• Fitting - F1: Fitting-019-10mm - M10-Aluminum x 1 (90 degree banjo)
• Fitting - F2: Fitting-410-10mm - M10-Stainless Steel x 1 (straight M10 concave / 11mm wrench)
• Length A: Clear x 610mm (24 inches)

BMW K1200LT 2009 Front Master Cylinder to existing 3-way fork mounted connector.
• Fitting - F1: Fitting-Silver-002-10mm - M10-Aluminum x 1 (20 degree banjo)
• Fitting - F2: Fitting-410-10mm - M10-Stainless Steel x 1 (straight M10 concave / 11mm wrench)
• Length A: Clear x 864mm (34 inches)

I used 12 ounces of brake fluid to bleed the lines (was alone and sloppy) and maybe four tie wraps.
You will reuse your banjo bolts, and your lines will come with new crush washers included.

I pulled the two small cable connectors from the top of the ABS, and on the large connector I snipped #9 ("!" LED energizer) and #10 wire, and soldered the long end of the #10 wire to the otherwise intact fat brown wire on the same connector (#30 ground). That energizes the relay that turns off the brake warning lamp flasher for good. An alternate method is to remove that relay (the white one I believe) but its kind of a pain to get to, adding time to the project.

No warning lamps ever again. Brakes work great now, but I can easily lock up and skid the wheels if I try.
Front and rear are no longer linked, another thing to get used to. I'm delighted with the results.
I just want to make certain I get this done correctly on my 2003. Wazza is mentioning about opening up the ABS module and working with the circuit board but you make no mention of anything like that. I took some pictures so we can communicate better. Are the two connectors in my picture the ones you are talking about? Did you just unplug and leave them that way? I really want to aviod getting into the ABS module.

I opened up the large connector and understand what you are talking about. with that.

Just want to get it done correctly.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bumper

Hood Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive design Electrical wiring
 

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I am having one complete h shaped line made that goes from the front master and splits to the two front calipers because I want all new Teflon lined, nylon coated, braided stainless steel lines. I don't want to use any of the old system other than master cylinders and calipers. Same with the rear. It will go from the caliper to the cylinder with no interruptions. Just personal preference i guess.
If you still have the old rubber brake lines then a understand your reasoning. It is important to get rid of those.
The reason you need to open the ABS module is that you have two plugs that come off the circuit board and activate the two pump motors. If you don't they will continue to run and if they burn out they can also burn out components on the ABS circuit board. You need to retain the circuit board and keep it plugged in to the bike because other things run through that board. Your speedo and brake lights need that board to function. The end with the board comes off easy, just 4 screws but you need a special 5 point security star bit. I bought a set off eBay.
Here is what the board looks like, yours might look slightly different as it is an older model.

Circuit component Passive circuit component Hardware programmer Bumper Electrical wiring
 

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If you still have the old rubber brake lines then a understand your reasoning. It is important to get rid of those.
The reason you need to open the ABS module is that you have two plugs that come off the circuit board and activate the two pump motors. If you don't they will continue to run and if they burn out they can also burn out components on the ABS circuit board. You need to retain the circuit board and keep it plugged in to the bike because other things run through that board. Your speedo and brake lights need that board to function. The end with the board comes off easy, just 4 screws but you need a special 5 point security star bit. I bought a set off eBay.
Here is what the board looks like, yours might look slightly different as it is an older model.

View attachment 179727
Wazza,
I dont mean to keep asking questions but better to ask in advance than put it all back together and have issues. I have a set of the security torx screw bits so that is no problem. My pumps are not working at this time so do I really need to unplug them? You say unplug pump motors from the board so unplug the two ribbons? What's going on with the other plugs in the picture that are not connected? I don't have mine apart yet so don't know about those plugs. Was that because you were doing something else to the module? Zeek indicated to clip #10 brown/yellow wire and attach to large brown ground wire. What about that? What about unplugging the two connectors above the module?
I ordered my lines and they will be made and shipped out today, $250. Might get them Friday or Monday but want to get the electrical portion completed before they arrive.
Your help is appreciated.
 

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Leave the two connectors above the unit alone they do not pertain to the ABS. Unplug all connectors (two ribbon cables that go to the pressure sensors, two white plugs with red and gray or black, (motor plugs) and the two white connectors with black wires (ABS Solenoids) on the circuit board even if the motors are not currently running. Then either place the board back inside or wrap it with plastic sheeting to insulate it. Cut the wire to pin 9 ( this will stop the general warning light) and cut the wire on pin 10 and hook the bike side of the wire to a brown wire (this will lockout the flashing ABS warning light).
 
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Wazza,
I dont mean to keep asking questions but better to ask in advance than put it all back together and have issues. I have a set of the security torx screw bits so that is no problem. My pumps are not working at this time so do I really need to unplug them? You say unplug pump motors from the board so unplug the two ribbons? What's going on with the other plugs in the picture that are not connected? I don't have mine apart yet so don't know about those plugs. Was that because you were doing something else to the module? Zeek indicated to clip #10 brown/yellow wire and attach to large brown ground wire. What about that? What about unplugging the two connectors above the module?
I ordered my lines and they will be made and shipped out today, $250. Might get them Friday or Monday but want to get the electrical portion completed before they arrive.
Your help is appreciated.
I took that photo during the removal of the ABS and had already unplugged the motors and that is what the 4 loose plugs were. I see John has replied to you with the correct information. Retain the board in the casing it is mounted in and just close off the open end with something to make it safe and secure. You could also just screw it back onto the old ABS and leave the dead unit in the bike. I chose to remove it and save around 5 Kg of weight.
Just make sure your torx bits fit. 6 point bits are common but BMW use 5 point torx bits which are less common.
 

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...and hook the bike side of the wire to a brown wire (this will lockout the flashing ABS warning light).
So, which brown wire? any brown wire? What's a/the brown wire normally for? Just trying to understand from a zoomed out perspective. o_O
 

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I took that photo during the removal of the ABS and had already unplugged the motors and that is what the 4 loose plugs were. I see John has replied to you with the correct information. Retain the board in the casing it is mounted in and just close off the open end with something to make it safe and secure. You could also just screw it back onto the old ABS and leave the dead unit in the bike. I chose to remove it and save around 5 Kg of weight.
Just make sure your torx bits fit. 6 point bits are common but BMW use 5 point torx bits which are less common.
Thanks Wazza and jzeiler for all your help. I worked in automotive engineering and this bike reminds of one of the idiot designers I had working for me. I told him to fit a steering actuator for the rear wheel on a vehicle. I come back a couple days later and the genius had it assembled to the chassis with a 3 inch long bolt. It looked all well and good on his computer but the thing he did not see was that there was only 1 inch of clearance above the bolt. The amount of components including J pegs that have to be dismantled just to work on this bike is a nightmare even for an oil or air filter change. unbolting the pump looks to be too much work in itself. I will get it done, but there certainly is more work than it deserves considering the bike is only worth about $1500.
Happy trails!!!
 
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