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I love this bike. I'm the first owner. I've ridden from east to west coast USA a couple times on it, and developed a real fondness for it. I bought a Russell saddle early on, ELF pegs, cup holder and upgraded all the lamps to LEDs. With some sadness, I did the "security system-ectomy" when the 10 year battery ran out which forfeited remote locking and ground lighting, but hey, she still got me around in style, and I very rarely used the locks before. Then the brake-light idiot lamps started random alarms. I patched around a broken rear hall effect sensor cable and was out of the woods for a while. I replaced the original flexible brake lines with Spieglers and did all the regular (and major) maintenance on schedule and even watched things with my trusty GS-911 tool and yet, to my great dismay, iABS failure. High pressure in the rear leg that I could not resolve. I was SICK of the brake warning lamp, and refused to invest in a possible lame replacement. She's getting older...but so is my wife and I'm not giving up on her either!

So, I plumbed-around the iABS with about 16 hours of joyful shop time and $127.45 in Spiegler custom lines. 10 hours of that shop time was stripping, tank removal, cleaning, and reassembly.

FYI, They shipped a 12.5 degree fitting instead of the 20 on front, so I may have used the wrong part number, but it fits just fine!
https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-lines-accessories-tools/custom-brake-lines.html is the online store if you want to tweak your order.

You can clip the verbiage below and email it to Brian: [email protected] for a quote.
Shipping for me was three days from order (OH to PA).

Need quote for:
BMW K1200LT 2009 Rear Master Cylinder to existing frame mounted connector.
• Fitting - F1: Fitting-019-10mm - M10-Aluminum x 1 (90 degree banjo)
• Fitting - F2: Fitting-410-10mm - M10-Stainless Steel x 1 (straight M10 concave / 11mm wrench)
• Length A: Clear x 610mm (24 inches)

BMW K1200LT 2009 Front Master Cylinder to existing 3-way fork mounted connector.
• Fitting - F1: Fitting-Silver-002-10mm - M10-Aluminum x 1 (20 degree banjo)
• Fitting - F2: Fitting-410-10mm - M10-Stainless Steel x 1 (straight M10 concave / 11mm wrench)
• Length A: Clear x 864mm (34 inches)

I used 12 ounces of brake fluid to bleed the lines (was alone and sloppy) and maybe four tie wraps.
You will reuse your banjo bolts, and your lines will come with new crush washers included.

I pulled the two small cable connectors from the top of the ABS, and on the large connector I snipped #9 ("!" LED energizer) and #10 wire, and soldered the long end of the #10 wire to the otherwise intact fat brown wire on the same connector (#30 ground). That energizes the relay that turns off the brake warning lamp flasher for good. An alternate method is to remove that relay (the white one I believe) but its kind of a pain to get to, adding time to the project.

No warning lamps ever again. Brakes work great now, but I can easily lock up and skid the wheels if I try.
Front and rear are no longer linked, another thing to get used to. I'm delighted with the results.
 

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I too bypassed my ABS system on my 2002 Lt. I have been pleased with the performance so far but I have found myself being extra sensitive on the brakes when the road is wet. Don't want to break the traction now that the ABS is gone.

I just took out my bulb on the instrument panel to get rid of the idiot light.

When my ABS failed it was as I was braking coming up to a red light and there were about 10 cars in line at the light. When I started braking I felt the brakes start to slow me down and then the ABS failed and it felt like the brake lines suddenly burst and I had NO brakes at all. Thankfully the oncoming lane was clear and I had time and room enough to swerve the the left and use up that extra space in the oncoming lane to get stopped. Thankfully I was only doing about 35 when it happened.....

With the old school brakes I no longer have to worry about the ABS acting up :)
 

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I love this bike. I'm the first owner. I've ridden from east to west coast USA a couple times on it, and developed a real fondness for it. I bought a Russell saddle early on, ELF pegs, cup holder and upgraded all the lamps to LEDs. With some sadness, I did the "security system-ectomy" when the 10 year battery ran out which forfeited remote locking and ground lighting, but hey, she still got me around in style, and I very rarely used the locks before. Then the brake-light idiot lamps started random alarms. I patched around a broken rear hall effect sensor cable and was out of the woods for a while. I replaced the original flexible brake lines with Spieglers and did all the regular (and major) maintenance on schedule and even watched things with my trusty GS-911 tool and yet, to my great dismay, iABS failure. High pressure in the rear leg that I could not resolve. I was SICK of the brake warning lamp, and refused to invest in a possible lame replacement. She's getting older...but so is my wife and I'm not giving up on her either!

So, I plumbed-around the iABS with about 16 hours of joyful shop time and $127.45 in Spiegler custom lines. 10 hours of that shop time was stripping, tank removal, cleaning, and reassembly.

FYI, They shipped a 12.5 degree fitting instead of the 20 on front, so I may have used the wrong part number, but it fits just fine!
Custom Brake Lines | Motorcycle Brake Lines | Spiegler USA is the online store if you want to tweak your order.

You can clip the verbiage below and email it to Brian: [email protected] for a quote.
Shipping for me was three days from order (OH to PA).

Need quote for:
BMW K1200LT 2009 Rear Master Cylinder to existing frame mounted connector.
• Fitting - F1: Fitting-019-10mm - M10-Aluminum x 1 (90 degree banjo)
• Fitting - F2: Fitting-410-10mm - M10-Stainless Steel x 1 (straight M10 concave / 11mm wrench)
• Length A: Clear x 610mm (24 inches)

BMW K1200LT 2009 Front Master Cylinder to existing 3-way fork mounted connector.
• Fitting - F1: Fitting-Silver-002-10mm - M10-Aluminum x 1 (20 degree banjo)
• Fitting - F2: Fitting-410-10mm - M10-Stainless Steel x 1 (straight M10 concave / 11mm wrench)
• Length A: Clear x 864mm (34 inches)

I used 12 ounces of brake fluid to bleed the lines (was alone and sloppy) and maybe four tie wraps.
You will reuse your banjo bolts, and your lines will come with new crush washers included.

I pulled the two small cable connectors from the top of the ABS, and on the large connector I snipped #9 ("!" LED energizer) and #10 wire, and soldered the long end of the #10 wire to the otherwise intact fat brown wire on the same connector (#30 ground). That energizes the relay that turns off the brake warning lamp flasher for good. An alternate method is to remove that relay (the white one I believe) but its kind of a pain to get to, adding time to the project.

No warning lamps ever again. Brakes work great now, but I can easily lock up and skid the wheels if I try.
Front and rear are no longer linked, another thing to get used to. I'm delighted with the results.
Thanks, this is exactly what I need! However, I can't find the 410 fitting on the site, any chance there is a sutible alternative we could use?
 

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I am also thinking about doing this. I have been looking at a system by a company called RH Electronics and they call it the RH Second Life Kit. One thing that is a problem with this kit is that you can no longer operate your EHCS. I asked them about this and they said it is because when they developed the kits they didn't have the big tourers in mind and have no plans to develop it further. What is attractive about this kit is that you just remove your entire ABS unit and the new kit plugs straight into where it came from. You don't need to change any plumbing and your ABS plug just plugs into the new unit. You retain everything except your center stand. I believe I could develop a work around for this that would still retain some form of safety to prevent deployment during motion.
I have to admit that the lack of ABS does worry me but not as much as not knowing if and when I will find my brakes gone again.
 

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I am also thinking about doing this. I have been looking at a system by a company called RH Electronics and they call it the RH Second Life Kit. One thing that is a problem with this kit is that you can no longer operate your EHCS. I asked them about this and they said it is because when they developed the kits they didn't have the big tourers in mind and have no plans to develop it further. What is attractive about this kit is that you just remove your entire ABS unit and the new kit plugs straight into where it came from. You don't need to change any plumbing and your ABS plug just plugs into the new unit. You retain everything except your center stand. I believe I could develop a work around for this that would still retain some form of safety to prevent deployment during motion.
I have to admit that the lack of ABS does worry me but not as much as not knowing if and when I will find my brakes gone again.
Yeah, the idea of ABS failing leaving me with almost no braking is a serious concern of mine and one reason I considered finding a very early LT to refurbish and replace the 05 I've got. But honestly, the only real issue I have now IS the ABS failing. I, like so many, have ridden bikes for a really long time before ABS came along. Some real heavy ones with crap braking (Harley) and some good braking (Honda). While we will never be as good as ABS monitoring what the wheel is doing, and thus can't react as fast, experience tells us what the wheel will like to do. I still ride like I don't have ABS, so it pretty much never engages (except when being a hooligan), so no ABS isn't scary to me.
 
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I love this bike. I'm the first owner. I've ridden from east to west coast USA a couple times on it, and developed a real fondness for it. I bought a Russell saddle early on, ELF pegs, cup holder and upgraded all the lamps to LEDs. With some sadness, I did the "security system-ectomy" when the 10 year battery ran out which forfeited remote locking and ground lighting, but hey, she still got me around in style, and I very rarely used the locks before. Then the brake-light idiot lamps started random alarms. I patched around a broken rear hall effect sensor cable and was out of the woods for a while. I replaced the original flexible brake lines with Spieglers and did all the regular (and major) maintenance on schedule and even watched things with my trusty GS-911 tool and yet, to my great dismay, iABS failure. High pressure in the rear leg that I could not resolve. I was SICK of the brake warning lamp, and refused to invest in a possible lame replacement. She's getting older...but so is my wife and I'm not giving up on her either!

So, I plumbed-around the iABS with about 16 hours of joyful shop time and $127.45 in Spiegler custom lines. 10 hours of that shop time was stripping, tank removal, cleaning, and reassembly.

FYI, They shipped a 12.5 degree fitting instead of the 20 on front, so I may have used the wrong part number, but it fits just fine!
Custom Brake Lines | Motorcycle Brake Lines | Spiegler USA is the online store if you want to tweak your order.

You can clip the verbiage below and email it to Brian: [email protected] for a quote.
Shipping for me was three days from order (OH to PA).

Need quote for:
BMW K1200LT 2009 Rear Master Cylinder to existing frame mounted connector.
• Fitting - F1: Fitting-019-10mm - M10-Aluminum x 1 (90 degree banjo)
• Fitting - F2: Fitting-410-10mm - M10-Stainless Steel x 1 (straight M10 concave / 11mm wrench)
• Length A: Clear x 610mm (24 inches)

BMW K1200LT 2009 Front Master Cylinder to existing 3-way fork mounted connector.
• Fitting - F1: Fitting-Silver-002-10mm - M10-Aluminum x 1 (20 degree banjo)
• Fitting - F2: Fitting-410-10mm - M10-Stainless Steel x 1 (straight M10 concave / 11mm wrench)
• Length A: Clear x 864mm (34 inches)

I used 12 ounces of brake fluid to bleed the lines (was alone and sloppy) and maybe four tie wraps.
You will reuse your banjo bolts, and your lines will come with new crush washers included.

I pulled the two small cable connectors from the top of the ABS, and on the large connector I snipped #9 ("!" LED energizer) and #10 wire, and soldered the long end of the #10 wire to the otherwise intact fat brown wire on the same connector (#30 ground). That energizes the relay that turns off the brake warning lamp flasher for good. An alternate method is to remove that relay (the white one I believe) but its kind of a pain to get to, adding time to the project.

No warning lamps ever again. Brakes work great now, but I can easily lock up and skid the wheels if I try.
Front and rear are no longer linked, another thing to get used to. I'm delighted with the results.
I think I understand, so you added extra brake lines to circumvent the ABS module altogether?

16 hours of work is quicker than pulling out a relay, even one difficult to get to?
 

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I am also thinking about doing this. I have been looking at a system by a company called RH Electronics and they call it the RH Second Life Kit. One thing that is a problem with this kit is that you can no longer operate your EHCS. I asked them about this and they said it is because when they developed the kits they didn't have the big tourers in mind and have no plans to develop it further. What is attractive about this kit is that you just remove your entire ABS unit and the new kit plugs straight into where it came from. You don't need to change any plumbing and your ABS plug just plugs into the new unit. You retain everything except your center stand. I believe I could develop a work around for this that would still retain some form of safety to prevent deployment during motion.
I have to admit that the lack of ABS does worry me but not as much as not knowing if and when I will find my brakes gone again.
why does this affect the electric center stand?
 

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A different thread had this company with an economical remedy. And it allows all functions needed on the bike.
EMULATOR ABS PUMP MODULATOR PUMPE BMW R 1150 K 1200 GS GT LT RS S RT ST R C CL | eBay
A Polish company making a bypass system. Uses your electronics so you have to send them your parts, they work it over and return with the bypass block. About $400 it looks like. See the post below, second life kit.
that's good information to have. Unfortunately, as of June 26, 2022, they're out of stock. Just like everyone else in the world. o_O
 

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Does the diagnostic tool help figure this out/narrow it down to what's actually bad, or do people just start out trying to bleed the system, and go from there?
 

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why does this affect the electric center stand?
Quite a lot of circuitry routs through the ABS and the center stand is one of those things. I have just removed my ABS unit and now have standard brakes which I am more than happy with. No loss of braking power but of course no ABS. I had to remove the circuit board from the ABS unit so I could leave it plugged into the bike. If you don't you lose speedo, brake lights, and center stand.
 

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I think I understand, so you added extra brake lines to circumvent the ABS module altogether?

16 hours of work is quicker than pulling out a relay, even one difficult to get to?
Getting to the relay under the tank can be done in about an hour an a half. When you have had to remove the tupperware a few times you think nothing of it.
 

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Getting to the relay under the tank can be done in about an hour an a half. When you have had to remove the tupperware a few times you think nothing of it.
would you have any pics of the exposed relay on the bike? Is it a yellow one as mentioned in other threads?
 

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I love this bike. I'm the first owner. I've ridden from east to west coast USA a couple times on it, and developed a real fondness for it. I bought a Russell saddle early on, ELF pegs, cup holder and upgraded all the lamps to LEDs. With some sadness, I did the "security system-ectomy" when the 10 year battery ran out which forfeited remote locking and ground lighting, but hey, she still got me around in style, and I very rarely used the locks before. Then the brake-light idiot lamps started random alarms. I patched around a broken rear hall effect sensor cable and was out of the woods for a while. I replaced the original flexible brake lines with Spieglers and did all the regular (and major) maintenance on schedule and even watched things with my trusty GS-911 tool and yet, to my great dismay, iABS failure. High pressure in the rear leg that I could not resolve. I was SICK of the brake warning lamp, and refused to invest in a possible lame replacement. She's getting older...but so is my wife and I'm not giving up on her either!

So, I plumbed-around the iABS with about 16 hours of joyful shop time and $127.45 in Spiegler custom lines. 10 hours of that shop time was stripping, tank removal, cleaning, and reassembly.

FYI, They shipped a 12.5 degree fitting instead of the 20 on front, so I may have used the wrong part number, but it fits just fine!
Custom Brake Lines | Motorcycle Brake Lines | Spiegler USA is the online store if you want to tweak your order.

You can clip the verbiage below and email it to Brian: [email protected] for a quote.
Shipping for me was three days from order (OH to PA).

Need quote for:
BMW K1200LT 2009 Rear Master Cylinder to existing frame mounted connector.
• Fitting - F1: Fitting-019-10mm - M10-Aluminum x 1 (90 degree banjo)
• Fitting - F2: Fitting-410-10mm - M10-Stainless Steel x 1 (straight M10 concave / 11mm wrench)
• Length A: Clear x 610mm (24 inches)

BMW K1200LT 2009 Front Master Cylinder to existing 3-way fork mounted connector.
• Fitting - F1: Fitting-Silver-002-10mm - M10-Aluminum x 1 (20 degree banjo)
• Fitting - F2: Fitting-410-10mm - M10-Stainless Steel x 1 (straight M10 concave / 11mm wrench)
• Length A: Clear x 864mm (34 inches)

I used 12 ounces of brake fluid to bleed the lines (was alone and sloppy) and maybe four tie wraps.
You will reuse your banjo bolts, and your lines will come with new crush washers included.

I pulled the two small cable connectors from the top of the ABS, and on the large connector I snipped #9 ("!" LED energizer) and #10 wire, and soldered the long end of the #10 wire to the otherwise intact fat brown wire on the same connector (#30 ground). That energizes the relay that turns off the brake warning lamp flasher for good. An alternate method is to remove that relay (the white one I believe) but its kind of a pain to get to, adding time to the project.

No warning lamps ever again. Brakes work great now, but I can easily lock up and skid the wheels if I try.
Front and rear are no longer linked, another thing to get used to. I'm delighted with the results.
My ABS went out a couple years ago and I parked my 2003 K1200LT until yesterday. I never liked the ABS and always wanted to delete it. Now is the time. I am curious as to the lines you had made. Did you have totally new Teflon lined stainless steel braided lines made and eliminate all of the old lines or did you just change out the rubber lines and plumb accordingly? So for the front was it a new line from the master on the handlebar to the fork banjo down by the calipers with the hard tubes left intact? Did you run a new stainless line directly from the rear cylinder to the rear caliper? I want to try and avoid taking all the plastic and tank off just to do this and am willing to leave the old components where they are.
 

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Before you do it, what is the response of your insurance company to this modification?
I'd think what they don't know what hurt them.
 

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I'd think what they don't know what hurt them.
Ok, so what happens if you have a tyre blow out and wipe out a family on a pedestrian crossing? Do you think that the insurance assessor will turn a blind eye to a safety modification, undeclared? I gather that in America, the third party will own you and everything you have if you find that you are uninsured after a claim? Frankly ( with respect) that feels the same irresponsibility as driving under the influence. I'm not saying don't do the modification, just make sure that the change is declared.
 

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Ok, so what happens if you have a tyre blow out and wipe out....
First off, the thread is not about a tire blowing out.
Second, I suspect you're overthinking/excessively worrying about a scenario with probability of occurring rather low.
Third, from what I've read in this and other threads, the ABS malfunctioning and creating a catastrophic event is much more likely to happen. what would ur underwriter say then?
Obviously, someone who performs such a "modification" will have to adjust their riding accordingly.
 
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My opinion on safety after deleting my ABS is that the bike is now safer. In operation you really can't tell the difference in braking force. The big difference is that you now have brakes that won't suddenly and without much warning fail on you. I had mine fail a couple of times and I persisted with trying to maintain the ABS system up until the point that I couldn't get them gong again.
I once had them fail when I got to the top of a mountain in my area. Getting down was a worry as there are some quite steep sections. I now have brakes that I know will be there when I need them even if my electrics were to fail suddenly.
In my mind I have made the bike safer and less likely to take out that innocent family.
 
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