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2008 LT not starting

7K views 59 replies 17 participants last post by  deanwoolsey 
#1 ·
Hello everyone. I am new to this forum. Just joined today. After reading and accepting the terms I tried to search as suggested for an answer to my question but it didn't turn up any results so here I go creating my own thread.

Three months ago I purchased my 2008 LT from my BMW dealer. It only had 1075 miles on it. It looks and runs like new. Since purchasing it I've ridden it approx. 2,000 miles. On a trip to South Carolina over the Easter Holiday the bike wouldn't turn over when I turned on the key and hit the starter button. Thinking it was something to do with my key fob I turn on/of the immobilizer which didnt resolve the issue. I checked to make sure it was in neutral, side stand wasn't down and the kill switch wasn't swithed to off. Nothing made a difference. Then as we stood around the bike with the key on wondering what to due next I hear the sound of a servo motor running for a second or two and stop. I immediately hit the starter button and it started.

I road the bike home and this problem has repeated itself when I attempted to ride it to work. If I let the bike set with the ignition key on for 3 to 5 minutes and hear that sero motor sound the bike will start. After the bike starts and I run it for awhile when I shut it off for a short period of time it will start right up. The sero motor sound occurs immediately at the time I turn on the key

Even though the bike is like new it is out of warranty. Any suggestions or insights on what may be wrong would be greatly appreciated. I relly miss riding it to work.
 
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#3 ·
Terry,
Welcome to the site. Don't know what you used as a search string but sometimes looking into the Hall of Wisdom will help.

That said, couple things you should be checking, what is the battery voltage with the bike not running? While you are checking that be sure to check that all the connections are tight, pay attention to the back of the battery where the brown wires go to a common point just to the back of the battery. Note; Brown is ground.
 
#4 ·
TerryN said:
Hello everyone. I am new to this forum. Just joined today. After reading and accepting the terms I tried to search as suggested for an answer to my question but it didn't turn up any results so here I go creating my own thread.

Three months ago I purchased my 2008 LT from my BMW dealer. It only had 1075 miles on it. It looks and runs like new. Since purchasing it I've ridden it approx. 2,000 miles. On a trip to South Carolina over the Easter Holiday the bike wouldn't turn over when I turned on the key and hit the starter button. Thinking it was something to do with my key fob I turn on/of the immobilizer which didnt resolve the issue. I checked to make sure it was in neutral, side stand wasn't down and the kill switch wasn't swithed to off. Nothing made a difference. Then as we stood around the bike with the key on wondering what to due next I hear the sound of a servo motor running for a second or two and stop. I immediately hit the starter button and it started.

I road the bike home and this problem has repeated itself when I attempted to ride it to work. If I let the bike set with the ignition key on for 3 to 5 minutes and hear that sero motor sound the bike will start. After the bike starts and I run it for awhile when I shut it off for a short period of time it will start right up. The sero motor sound occurs immediately at the time I turn on the key


Sounds like the noise you are hearing is actually the fuel pump pressuring up the fuel system. I would check the connector on the fuel pump to be sure it is tight. You will have to remove the right side body panel to get to it. I would also turn the kill switch on & off several times to be sure there is not a corrosion problem on the switch. It may have gotten water inside somehow. Next I would check the side stand switch for proper contact. make sure it is making a positive connection with the stand up. There is a plug where the side stand switch plugs into the wiring harness on the left side under the drivers seat area, follow the wire up from the switch and check that connector.
Good Luck
 
#5 ·
johnbaker15 said:
Terry,
Welcome to the site. Don't know what you used as a search string but sometimes looking into the Hall of Wisdom will help.

That said, couple things you should be checking, what is the battery voltage with the bike not running? While you are checking that be sure to check that all the connections are tight, pay attention to the back of the battery where the brown wires go to a common point just to the back of the battery. Note; Brown is ground.
John,
The battery voltage with the key off is 12.5. I followed the brown wire from the battery post to the common point all connections are tight without any signs of corrosion.
Thanks,
Terry
 
#6 ·
TerryN said:
I checked to make sure it was in neutral, side stand wasn't down and the kill switch wasn't swithed to off. Nothing made a difference. Then as we stood around the bike with the key on wondering what to due next I hear the sound of a servo motor running for a second or two and stop. I immediately hit the starter button and it started.
Terry, did you check the reverse switch. Try wiggling it off and one a couple times to be sure it is in the correct position.
 
#7 ·
TerryN said:
John,
The battery voltage with the key off is 12.5. I followed the brown wire from the battery post to the common point all connections are tight without any signs of corrosion.
Thanks,
Terry
12 volt battery is 13.2 volts when good, I have a 2000 with the old starter relay but I understand the newer one protects itself by preventing a start if the voltage is low could 12.5 be marginal enough to stop a start
 
#8 ·
If the servos don't sound and the dash dials don't do a full swing immediately after you turn on the key, then I suspect a faulty ignition switch. But if the dials swing but no servo sound then something is loose in the power feed area.
 
#12 ·
I'm still trying to schedule a service appointment with the BMW dealer to have them diagnosis whats going on. They are backed up with service call due to the time of year.
The owner has offered to let me drop off my bike and send me on my way with a loaner for a few days untill they can get to mine. I'm probably going to go this route. It's just that I was hoping that this was something simple that I could fix myself and save some money.

Anyway this morning I was able to ride to work. I timed it and it took almost exactly five minutes sitting with the ignition on before the sero motor sounded and I was able to start the bike. It seems to take longer the colder it is out.

Thanks for asking!
Terry
 
#13 ·
You're welcome. I'm intimately curious of your problem since I'm about to buy an '05 KLT with 9800 miles on it and am worried about your situation. I have two Beemers also (740iL and 530i) which are giving me constant maintenance issues so I don't know if I want another headache to worry about.

I also see another thread on here with a trike having similar no start issues.
 
#14 ·
TerryN said:
The dials swing but no servo motor sound.

What do you mean by power feed area?

Thanks
Terry
Terry,
I think jzeiler is talking about both the fuse area and under the tank are some relay's that distribute power to all parts of the bike. Another guess to try before the dealer is to remove and reseat the fuses. Sometimes they develop corrosion and will cause a strange electrical issue. I don't really think it is this but easy fix if it is. The other area is under that gas tank and you will need a tupperware removal first to get to that spot.
 
#15 ·
John,
Thanks for the explaination. I'm trying to work up the courage to tackle removing the tupperware & gas tank tonight and checking the fuses etc as has been suggested. I'll update everyone tomorrow.

By the way I have a good friend who lives in Dracut, MA. I have visited him a couple of times over the years. Love the history in the area.

Thanks,
Terry
 
#16 ·
I would be helpful if you watch your head light and see if it comes on right away when you turn on the key. If it does not light right away this would pin it down to the load shed relay and a starter gound issue. There is a single 5mm allen on the back side of the tranny cover where the starter goes into it. If that is loose it prevent the load shed relay from working and could prevent the starter from running.

There is a second tie point (insulated) behind the battery where all the feeds to the starter are (from the starter relay and from the reverser controller). Or it could just be a dirty ignition switch.
 
#17 ·
My 2009 is having a similar problem, hit the start buttom, nothing. I mean totally nothing. I jump start it thinking weak battery, ride 145 miles, eat, dead. Call Roadside Ass to get jump, ride 90 miles to dealereship. 101 dollars later, can't find anything. Maybe I left something on and caused a battery issue. Ride 5 miles for gas, DEAD, get a jump ride 120 miles home and now it's started 8 or 10 times. I have the body off and the gas tank, where is this 5mm bolt located.

Thanks, Mike
 
#20 ·
WVMSFRS said:
I have the body off and the gas tank, where is this 5mm bolt located.

Thanks, Mike
Right here. If loose can cause dash and lights to go crazy above 3,000rpm. It ensures a positive ground to the starter that is trapped between the transmission and engine oil baths sealed by o-rings.

But if your lights come on OK and it will not crank I don't suspect this. The starter relay has sensing electronics and will not allow the starter to engage below about 12.2 volts or so.
 

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#22 ·
Bones1955 said:
My gauges don't swing at all when I turn the key on..is that normal for a 2000?
That may only be a feature of the 05 and up , newer dash. I just have not been around the older bikes that much to say for sue.
 
#24 ·
Thanks John, here's the thing. When it won't start it does nothing, it's totally silent. A BMW rep thought it might a "dirty starter" condition not letting current pass though. The fix is to remove the starter and clean it. OK, how in the hell do you get thing off. If it was that I would think you would still hear the fuel pump whine. I'm pissed, this bike has left me stranded 3 times in less than 2 years. It only has 25000 miles on it, I'll be a certifed BMW mechanic bythe time I hit 50000 miles.
 
#25 ·
WVMSFRS said:
Thanks John, here's the thing. When it won't start it does nothing, it's totally silent. A BMW rep thought it might a "dirty starter" condition not letting current pass though. The fix is to remove the starter and clean it. OK, how in the hell do you get thing off. If it was that I would think you would still hear the fuel pump whine. I'm pissed, this bike has left me stranded 3 times in less than 2 years. It only has 25000 miles on it, I'll be a certifed BMW mechanic bythe time I hit 50000 miles.


Hope you hang around after you do!

Right now I'm doing the cruise thing.
I get a fail at throttle roll or clutch pull..tried it both ways.
Im thinking micro switch or cable way out of wack..who knows.

I do know I bought a 88 kaw voyager in 1999 that gave me no probs,just got rid of it for the 2000 lt.
Never checked the final drive or gave it a thought..cruise always worked..throttle was easy to turn.
Just normal stuf like tires and batterys.

But man I like how this thing handles compared to that kaw..looks way better also.
Took awhile to get used to the turn signals and the fact that the front doesn't sink or rock back at stops..pretty cool.
I'm liking reverse also..and the sound system.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Here's a theory. Your ignition switch may be badly gummed up. When you switch it on because of the crud inside it takes some time for the spring loaded contacts to engage properly. You may want to try some electrical contact cleaner and see what happens. If I am correct it would also likely be temperature sensitive. The colder out, the moore likely it is to not start. You could try shooting some canned compressed air (liquid CO2) in there in a liquid form to verify this. Just turn the can upside down and stick the nozzle in the key slot but read the warning on the can first. Personally I would give the ignition switch a good shot of electrical contact cleaner followed by some plastic safe silicone and see what happens.

Unfortunately my second guess is that you have a software issue.

Before you get too excited though have a second battery and some cables handy. When you turn it on and nothing happens connect the jumper cables without shutting off the ignition. If she spools right up when you jump it then go get a new battery. You may have an internal crack in your battery. Sounds crazy, right? Just give it a try. It happened to me on my RT. Not the exact same symptoms but similar to yours.
 
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