If the servos don't sound and the dash dials don't do a full swing immediately after you turn on the key, then I suspect a faulty ignition switch. But if the dials swing but no servo sound then something is loose in the power feed area.
Posts by jzeiler
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I would be helpful if you watch your head light and see if it comes on right away when you turn on the key. If it does not light right away this would pin it down to the load shed relay and a starter gound issue. There is a single 5mm allen on the back side of the tranny cover where the starter goes into it. If that is loose it prevent the load shed relay from working and could prevent the starter from running.
There is a second tie point (insulated) behind the battery where all the feeds to the starter are (from the starter relay and from the reverser controller). Or it could just be a dirty ignition switch.
There is a second tie point (insulated) behind the battery where all the feeds to the starter are (from the starter relay and from the reverser controller). Or it could just be a dirty ignition switch.
Right here. If loose can cause dash and lights to go crazy above 3,000rpm. It ensures a positive ground to the starter that is trapped between the transmission and engine oil baths sealed by o-rings.WVMSFRS said:
But if your lights come on OK and it will not crank I don't suspect this. The starter relay has sensing electronics and will not allow the starter to engage below about 12.2 volts or so.
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I am with Dean on this one - bad ignition switch. The only draw back is you can't get to the contact through the key slot. Best bet (and far easier than a starter removal) is to replace the switch. The switch is about $84. Labor to remove the starter is about $800. You have to pull the transmission to get the starter out. It is not the starter ground as even with it disconnected the gages will still do the self test dance if the ignition switch was OK..
I understand - did aviation maintenance in the Navy for 27 years and now support the Army in designing new weapons systems(BSEE). But I KNOW the LT very well and we have seen this same behaviour several times before. Just say'in that is where my money is...Cochinosucio said:I will have to respectfully disagree. The bike has 3000 miles on it. I might buy a faulty switch, but not dirty. Even with a faulty switch, it would not be exact timing, every time....
Maybe I have been fixin' jets too long....
This has really got my interest up...
No problem, I always welcome a fresh approach. Sometime we miss our noses right on our faces. Keep it up.Cochinosucio said:
On a side note the lights are a direct from the switch with only the load shed relay in the loop. That relay gets its ground through the starter. So no sw involved there.
That is a new one on me. I take it the lights on the bike would come on immediately every time the switch was turned on? Please confirm. I knew there was a rechargeable battery in the alarm but the alarm has no control over the headlight at all. Also the ABS is not tied into the alarm or ECU for power so the servos should have always made noise immediately on key turn if the switch was OK. I'll watch and see if this does solve your problem.
Great - Thanks that pretty much eliminates the gummy ignition switch theory. I'll log this for future reference should it happen again down the road. That was most likely the fuel pump when the alarm triggered the engine electrics relay. That then feeds the fuel pump relay through the ECU.
Not sure if a capacitor would operate the alarm for very long if the bikes battery was disconnected while it was armed as this one will.
On another data point if you wanted to you can just remove the alarm and jumper four pins on the twelve pin connector and be done with it altogether.
On another data point if you wanted to you can just remove the alarm and jumper four pins on the twelve pin connector and be done with it altogether.
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