[acuningham]

I replaced the front tire on my LT and while experiencing a little resistance getting the caliper off of the disc, i became impatient and thought maybe you have to split the caliper to get it off. Well after I did that an O-ring fell out and so did some brake fluid. So I knew that I was going to have to bleed the front brake before riding again. I disassembled the caliper and got the O-ring back in place and everything torqued back to specificaions. I soon learned that the caliper will come off easily enough and that changing the front tire can be accomplished without too much effort or frustration. Of course now the brake warning lights are going off. I have read some of the threads on bleeding the brakes on the older models with all of the reservoirs under the seat and all the other procedures and thought I should find a procedure for a newer model. My LT is a 2008 model and a local BMW motorcycle mechanic told me that the reservoirs had been combined over the years and that now the procedure was much simpler. Is that true or is there still a reservoir under the seat that i need to make sure is full? I am pretty sure the ABS is working okay. I rode to the end of the driveway and tested the brakes. They grab hard if you just barely touch the front brake lever.

I appreciate any help on this I can get. Can't ride until I get the brakes fixed and the weather is beautiful here in East TN.

alex

 

[jzeiler]

Here is what you need to do. Get a long piece of clear tubing that will reach from the caliper back to under the seat. On the ABS unit (remove the small tupperware commonly called the battery cover to get better access to the ABS unit) there are two black chambers one tall and one short. The tall one feeds the front wheel circuit. Open it up and make sure the fluid is all the way to the top. Then connect the tubing to the caliper bleed port and stick the other end in the reservoir you just topped off. Turn on the key and apply the brakes gently with the bleeder open on the caliper. Watch the fluid and air bubbles move down the line. Before it gets back to the reservoir check to make sure it is full again - add fluid. Now just pump away until all the air bubbles dissapear from the tubing. All should be well again.

 

[acuningham]

John,

thanks. Your procedure is very easy to understand and the picture of the ABS unit really helps. The hose diameter is 3/16" right? From what you describe I can do the procedure myself and don't have to ask my wife to pump the brakes while I mess with the bleeder valve.

 

[jzeiler]

Once you hook up the tubing to the bleeder just go ahead and open it slightly. Hold the other end at the reservoir with your hand and you can run the pump with your foot on the rear pedal as these are linked brakes. One man operation. 3/16 might be a bit big but I don't know what size I have been using (1/8 - 3/16??). As long as it is a snug fit when dry. Oh and one more thing. Wedge some wooden shims in or remove the caliper again and push back the pistons until they are flush and wedge them that way during the bleed as it will minimize the trapped air in the caliper.

 

[acuningham]

Success, I am back on the road again. The hard part is getting the plastic off of the side of the bike such that you can access the ABS unit. From under the seat there is no way to get to the port. The ABS is on the left side and the fame center member goes right on top of it. So after wrestling with removing the passenger foot rest, and other assorted pieces of plastic that overlap the side piece I was able to get to the unit.

3/16" hose is the right size. I bought 1/8 and had to work with it to get it onto the caliper bleed screw. I filled the reservoir with a funnel, opened the bleeder and turned on the key. Pressing the rear brake with my foot and holding the hose at the reservoir i was able to get fluid flowing again and remove bubbles from the line. I also pressed the front brake lever which increased the flow rate and removed the last pockets of air. I noticed when I went to tighten the bleeder valve that a large air bubble was right at the valve and so i was not convinced I had all the air out. By also pressing the front brake lever all of the air was removed. When I went to tighten the valve there was only solid fluid in the line next to the valve.

Thanks John for your help on this and for your help on the oil filter lid interference problem I wrote about last week.

alex

 

[jzeiler]

You are welcome and check the latest post for some really good oil change pictures.

Glad you got her fixed up. Now go for a ride you earned it!!