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My dealer needed to keep my 2007 for a day to take care of a minor service issue and I was given a 2010 demo to ride for the day. I didn't put a huge number of miles on, but in the 40 or so miles I put on, I came to a few conclusions.

The 2011 is certainly faster. There is no flat spot in the torque curve and that makes a big difference. I will say that it made things a little more fun, even in commuer type riding. It wasn't so fast or different to make me say "wow!" but rather "oh... that's nice."

The switchgear is a mixxed bag. I really prefer the new style dimmer for the headlight. Its faster and easier and keeps my hand better anchored on the grip. I didn't like the Jap style turn signal and other buttons seemed too small and difficult to find.

I like the new windshield a lot. The new shape keeps things a good bit quieter than the 2007. Also, when raised all the way, the 2007 pulls me forward into the wind eddy over the tank. The 2010 doesn't do this. I am impressed with how well BMW did the new screen.

The brakes seemed a bit stronger but this may be a figment of my imagination. My brakes are nearly new on the 2007 and the demo had 2400 miles on it so I should have more brakes left but the demo seemed stronger in this regard. Again, it might be an illusion.

Overall, I really liked the new bike. It was smoother, stronger and quieter than my bike. However... it wasn't so dramatic that it caused me to envy the new one. In fact, at the price I paid for my bike, compared to a new bike, I'm very satisfied with everything the 2007 offers. It was a good experience to ride them both back to back, as it just made me glad I have the bike I do.
 

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I have an AreoFlow windscreen on my 07

http://www.aeroflowscreens.com/

After I installed it I was going to go back to the stock in the warm weather. I never did, it works so well I leave it on all the time. I can look over it with almost no turbulence or put it up higher and block all the wind and a lot of rain.

As for the directional signal switches, don't like them. I have a few other bikes with the "one switch" I like that better. I am not craZy about the dimmer either.

A bit more power? Haven't tried it, don't miss it.

I plan on keeping the 07 for a long time.

Mick
 

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Its different strokes for different blokes. I too had a loaner 2010 RT and was interested to note the differences.

Yes, I agree the engine is a big improvement. This is one bike that'll get you in trouble very easily!

The rest was a disappointment. I do prefer the normal (Jap) indicator switch but on this bike its not well executed and is just too fiddly.

The windscreen for me (6'2'') didn't work at all and I had severe buffet at any position. The worst was the seat which had my bum asking to get off after only a few minutes.

I was happy to give it back.
 

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OwenM said:
Its not difficult or expensive to make a 05-09 RT perform as well if not better than a 10-11 model.
I'm thinking you're refering to Lennies sprockets.
I'm not familiar with them but I believe they move the peak torque to lower RPM's? If true then HP being torque X RPM / 5000 something. You will loose peak HP, true?
The "perform as well if not better" would be in the lower RPM's only?
 

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Yes I was referring to Lennies sprockets, they improve performance from idle up to about 7500rpm significantly and I cant feel any loss at higher rpm, the limiter is still very easy to hit.
Add some extra fuel and ignition advance with an air temperature spoofing device (of which there are many) and the Hex head RT becomes the strong the performer a 1200cc twin should be, it will pull one gear taller than the stock bike in most situations.
Combine the cam sprockets with an RTP final drive, which improves get up and go from idle to red line in any gear by 5% and you wont have any trouble keeping the 10-11 RT's in your mirrors.
Carrying a pillion and luggage is much less of an effort especially starting off up hill and overtaking in top gear. It begs the question why BMW set up the RT for Autobaun speeds when few owners ever ride at such speeds for any significant time.

People who feel the need to rev the RT to over 7500rpm more than occasionally are probably on the wrong bike, its not the riding style that suits the RT IMHO.
 

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Ahh... I thought I'd remembered that username from somewhere.

I have looked at fitting a pair to my bike, but the cash keeps getting used up on other daily stuff.

Maybe one day when funds allow I'll give em a try.
\v/
 

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OwenM said:
Yes I was referring to Lennies sprockets, they improve performance from idle up to about 7500rpm significantly and I cant feel any loss at higher rpm, the limiter is still very easy to hit.
Add some extra fuel and ignition advance with an air temperature spoofing device (of which there are many) and the Hex head RT becomes the strong the performer a 1200cc twin should be, it will pull one gear taller than the stock bike in most situations.
Combine the cam sprockets with an RTP final drive, which improves get up and go from idle to red line in any gear by 5% and you wont have any trouble keeping the 10-11 RT's in your mirrors.
Carrying a pillion and luggage is much less of an effort especially starting off up hill and overtaking in top gear. It begs the question why BMW set up the RT for Autobaun speeds when few owners ever ride at such speeds for any significant time.

People who feel the need to rev the RT to over 7500rpm more than occasionally are probably on the wrong bike, its not the riding style that suits the RT IMHO.
These modifications sound enticing. But I dare say, and I may be quite mistaken, there are not very many of us who are technically adept enough to make these mods on our own. Wish that there were some local clubs that might be able to teach those of us who are interested how to make these changes without, in the process, destroying our bikes!

brselman
 

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Replacing the final drive is easy for anyone with even moderate mechanical aptitude, and the air temperature spoofing device is a no brainer for anyone to fit, simply plug and play.

Fitting Lennies sprockets is definitely not for the uninitiated so just pay someone who knowns what they are doing to fit them if you don't feel confident, its 2 hours labour at most so wont cost much.

It should cost about $1000 for the lot even if you have to pay to get everything fitted. People pay most of that for a exhaust that does virtually nothing for performance.
 

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OwenM said:
Replacing the final drive is easy for anyone with even moderate mechanical aptitude, and the air temperature spoofing device is a no brainer for anyone to fit, simply plug and play.

Fitting Lennies sprockets is definitely not for the uninitiated so just pay someone who knowns what they are doing to fit them if you don't feel confident, its 2 hours labour at most so wont cost much.

It should cost about $1000 for the lot even if you have to pay to get everything fitted. People pay most of that for a exhaust that does virtually nothing for performance.
Do you have part numbers?

brselman
 

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I have a 2007. I have found no reason to move to a 2011. A marginal increase in power does not compensate for all the downsides.

Also, the colors of (1) gray, (2) gray, or (3) gray do not do anything for me.
 
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