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Discussion Starter #1
I'm replacing the tire on the rear of my 2007 LT and just checked the ABS Air Gap. The gap is 006-007", far tighter than the .018 - .022" in the maintenance manual. Should I try and increase the gap? I'm assuming you add a shim, but can I use just apiece of sheet metal as a shim or do I go to Mother BMW for one? I don't see in the manual if it say how to adjust the gap, just that it should be adjusted! Thanks.
 

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I'm replacing the tire on the rear of my 2007 LT and just checked the ABS Air Gap. The gap is 006-007", far tighter than the .018 - .022" in the maintenance manual. Should I try and increase the gap? I'm assuming you add a shim, but can I use just apiece of sheet metal as a shim or do I go to Mother BMW for one? I don't see in the manual if it say how to adjust the gap, just that it should be adjusted! Thanks.
If you have something you can use to make your own spacer plate as referenced in the BMW Repair manual, I don't see any reason not to except if it ain't broke, don't fix it. :)
 

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I'm replacing the tire on the rear of my 2007 LT and just checked the ABS Air Gap. The gap is 006-007", far tighter than the .018 - .022" in the maintenance manual. Should I try and increase the gap? I'm assuming you add a shim, but can I use just apiece of sheet metal as a shim or do I go to Mother BMW for one? I don't see in the manual if it say how to adjust the gap, just that it should be adjusted! Thanks.
If it works, do not mess with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
10-4, if it isn't broke don't mess with it. So are you saying just leave it at 006"?

The bike has 10000 miles on it and I would guess this is the first time the wheel has been off. The brakes seemed to work ok other than the instrument panel does the usual flashing with the ABS icon.
 

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10-4, if it isn't broke don't mess with it. So are you saying just leave it at 006"?

The bike has 10000 miles on it and I would guess this is the first time the wheel has been off. The brakes seemed to work ok other than the instrument panel does the usual flashing with the ABS icon.
Are you referring to the usual flashing prior to moving forward and it sensing motion then they go out, basically normal function?

Or is there an issue you are trying to correct?
 

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No nothing I'm trying to correct. I'm only checking the gap because it recommended it in the manual. Brakes work fine.
It is nice to have a thread where someone says their brakes are working just fine. If it isn't causing any issue, then I would say leave it till it does even if the clearance is a little close. As long as there are no signs of it dragging.
 

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I'm replacing the tire on the rear of my 2007 LT and just checked the ABS Air Gap. The gap is 006-007", far tighter than the .018 - .022" in the maintenance manual. Should I try and increase the gap? I'm assuming you add a shim, but can I use just apiece of sheet metal as a shim or do I go to Mother BMW for one? I don't see in the manual if it say how to adjust the gap, just that it should be adjusted! Thanks.
You have either read incorrect version/release of BMW shop-manual _OR_ wrong section in CLYMER. All 2002-2009 K1200LT have Integral-ABS (with servos) and the correct specs for REAR ABS sensor GAP are: 0.008 to 0.059 inch (0.2 to 1,5 mm). Quite possible it will still work even if bit lower like you have now - I have tried a bit higher than specs and it would still work (up to a limit obviously). In your case, I would suggest you increase a bit with any similar washers on both screws - I normally target middle of range (approx 0.025 to 0.040 inch). The shim sold by BMW are 1 piece shape of 1mm thickness:
MAX BMW Motorcycles - BMW Parts & Technical Diagrams - K1200LT 05-09 (89V3)

The specs you have published in your post (approx 0.018 to 0.022 inch) are very close to shop-manual specs for K1200LT having ABS2 (mainly 1999-2001 for USA). The later IABS model have much wider range for Air-Gap specs.
 

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Also note that the measurement is taken at the point where the gap is the largest so it is " be no greater than" measurement. Too close and it could rub but should still work just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Sailor. You are right I am using a 1999 manual and the 018 to 022 specs were evidently for the older LT. I meant to mention the manual I was using but didn't think there was much difference in the specs.

So if I add washers or spacers in their to increase the gap, (I would rather it be closer to specs) do I have to disconnect the battery like it says?

Thanks.
 

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if it aint broke !! just sayin
 

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Thanks Sailor. You are right I am using a 1999 manual and the 018 to 022 specs were evidently for the older LT. I meant to mention the manual I was using but didn't think there was much difference in the specs.

So if I add washers or spacers in their to increase the gap, (I would rather it be closer to specs) do I have to disconnect the battery like it says?

Thanks.
Although, in general when working on electronics component it is always a good idea to disconnect battery as a safety measure (during the work), in this case as long as the ignition is OFF while you do the work, there is NO need to touch battery.

IABS system (with servos) will always clear all faults and self-check at each ignition ON sequence - the LAST STEP is pull-way test when you start moving, so the system will detect at that point if ABS wheel-sensor(s) are both valid and strong.

While you are there, always a good idea to clean dented wheel with a small soft brush (all around) - some crap get trapped into these small cavities.
 
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