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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
The spare plug I thought was a horn, according to my wiring diagram in the manual is actually side marker lights.... A brown ground, and what looks like grey with a black stripe.... I can't see that it was ever used, and there is nothing to connect it to....
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Yup Yellow/Red and Yellow/Brown. Those /colors are very close together in the photo.

The side lights are those two on either side of the high beam assembly.

Helmet Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive parking light
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Gotta be kidding me.... looks like these relays are supplyimg brake voltage to this auxillary light.....

Automotive tail & brake light Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
So, my plan is to cut out all of this relay stuff, and re-solder the original wiring back into the ABS plug. I'll use an electrical cleaner, and re-connect the ABS plug, then reassess. I dont understand this yet, but when I first turned the key on after installing a new battery, the brake solenoids stayed on continuously. Now, they don't come on at all..... So, Ill have to figure that out once I repair this wiring to the ABS plug......
 

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That is a good starting point, again what a mess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Ok, it makes sense why the brake solenoids stayed on all the time when the key was on initially...... If the brake switches are normally closed unless activated, then they go open, it stands to reason in my mind that since the wires for the front and rear brake were cut off of the ABS controller plug, the controller recognized the brakes as being applied (since the wires were left unattacheed to anything, thus open). I'm hoping that I just didnt get the plug back in all the way or something when I removed it to look at the wiring last time to be the reason they don't come on at all now.... I'll report back, but probably won't be able to get back on it until thursday. Thanks for the help you guys, I really appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Question, should the brake solenoids stay on constantly, as soon as the key is on? I thought they only go on when brakes are applied...
 

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Hi,
I think you mean the motors inside the ABS module. There will be on only when you pull the brake lever or press the brake pedal. If there are on when you turn the key, have a look on the switches behind the levers. Pay attention there should be normaly closed when not in use and open to activate the motors. If someone played and cut the wires to bypass the I-ABS module, they usually have to reverse how these switches work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Brake lights dont work.... I'll check fuses and relay....
Hi,
I think you mean the motors inside the ABS module. There will be on only when you pull the brake lever or press the brake pedal. If there are on when you turn the key, have a look on the switches behind the levers. Pay attention there should be normaly closed when not in use and open to activate the motors. If someone played and cut the wires to bypass the I-ABS module, they usually have to reverse how these switches work.
Thank you, I tested the switches from the wires at the ABS plug before correcting the PO's wiring contraption, and re-soldering. Each switch tested closed without application, and open with application. Update coming.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Ok, here's the update..... After correcting the wiring back to stock, electrical cleaning the ABS plug pins, and plugging the ABS plug back in, here is what I found;

1] ABS motors run continuously while key is on.
2] Braking power has returned
3] Electro-Hydraulic center stand now works normally
4] No fuses are blown
5] Grey wire with white stripe (pin 6 on ABS plug) has 12+ volts going to rear running lights, and lights do illuminate
6] Grey wire with yellow stripe (pin 4 on ABS plug) which goes to brake light relay has constant 1.0 VDC on it, when key is on (0 VDC when key off), and doesn't change when brakes are applied or not. This is the only wire to my knowledge that tells the brake light relay to activate or not.
7] This same grey wire with yellow stripe goes to the cruise control control unit, which also doesn't work.

After checking a host of other things, I believe the electronics inside my ABS unit have developed a short sometime in it's life, and the PO tried to bypass the brake light wiring by cutting the wiring off of the ABS plug, and wiring in some relays and wires to the back brake lights based on activation of the switches at the levers (actually front lever). Basically, besides the motors running constantly, switched signal from brake lever action is identified going into the ABS electronics, but no change in signal is coming out to the brake light relay. I think something is shorted inside the ABS electronics causing it to see a closed circuit, thus thinking that brakes are being applied constantly, and keeping the motors going. I don't see any other wiring in this bike that is not stock, and I have torn it completely apart to check. I would like any other advice if you have something that comes to mind.

Here's what I'm doing....

I sent an email to Tyler at Module Master in Idaho. Apparently, they are not taking any BMW motorcycle ABS units for evaluation and repair until after the first of the year. The receptionist told me however that I could send an email to him and explain what is going on, in hopes that he will respond and perhaps give me some options. If I don't hear from him, it looks like I'm going to have to try my luck at e-bay. I don't mind bypassing the hydraulic side of the ABS system, but I do want a functioning cruise control, brake lights, and speedo without a bunch of jerry rigging... thoughts?

Damon
 

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If the board has been swapped with one for a different bike, it will end with the same problem: motors on continuously.
If you have access to a GS911 it will give you the relevant information and more info about error if any.
If not, take a picture of the label and share it, if I can help. But only relevant if the board itself has not been separated from the case.
 

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The pin 4 should be zero until the brakes are applied then go to 12 volts to operate the relay. Looks like a board failure. On a normally functioning bike, if you hold the brakes when you turn on the key the ABS will never complete the first self test and you will have rapidly flashing warning lights until you release the brakes. Then is goes to the slow flash until the rolling self test is complete. Do you have the rapidly flashing lights when the key is turned on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
If the board has been swapped with one for a different bike, it will end with the same problem: motors on continuously.
If you have access to a GS911 it will give you the relevant information and more info about error if any.
If not, take a picture of the label and share it, if I can help. But only relevant if the board itself has not been separated from the case.
Thank you, I will take a picture of the label when I get home from work today. The ABS pump looks like it is the original pump, factory zip ties look to be in place and not disturbed, and the board box looks to be factory sealed still. I will see what I can do to find a GS911 locally. Thank you!
Damon
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
The pin 4 should be zero until the brakes are applied then go to 12 volts to operate the relay. Looks like a board failure. On a normally functioning bike, if you hold the brakes when you turn on the key the ABS will never complete the first self test and you will have rapidly flashing warning lights until you release the brakes. Then is goes to the slow flash until the rolling self test is complete. Do you have the rapidly flashing lights when the key is turned on?
Yes, the ABS light flashes 4 per second, always, when the key is on. The other light (exclamation point in a triangle) stays on constant as soon as the key is on.
 

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Then either one or both of the brake switches is bad (open) or the fault is on the ABS "brain".
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Then either one or both of the brake switches is bad (open) or the fault is on the ABS "brain".
I checked both switches at the ABS plug, and they operate normally, closed when not activated, open when acticvated. I think it's in the ABS brain too.....
 
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