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Miles of Smiles
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1,054 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
For maintenance purposes, I would like to use the EHCS but disable the Fuel pump & ABS motors.
That means turning on the key, but I DO NOT want the fuel Pump or ABS to operate.
The Fuel pump is easy. [ Fuse Box 2 Fuse # 3 10A ] or just disconnect the plug under the tank.
The tupper-ware will be off so access is fine.

The ABS is a little more tricky.
[ Fuse box 1 Fuse #7 4A "Parking Light, Tail light with ABS ] is the only reference I can find.
The 2 ABS motors draw a large amp and no doubt power would be controlled through a relay.
I've read all I can find about this system, but still cannot find an answer.

I know I can disconnect the large plug on the rear of the ABS motor but thought I could pull a fuse instead.

Anyone got a clue on this one ?

Also, I know I can pull the plug on the EHCS next to the actuator and power it directly.
I think the limit switches will still stop the pump at the center stand max point.

Thanks for any information you may have.

Cheers
 

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For maintenance purposes, I would like to use the EHCS but disable the Fuel pump & ABS motors.
That means turning on the key, but I DO NOT want the fuel Pump or ABS to operate.
The Fuel pump is easy. [ Fuse Box 2 Fuse # 3 10A ] or just disconnect the plug under the tank.
The tupper-ware will be off so access is fine.

The ABS is a little more tricky.
[ Fuse box 1 Fuse #7 4A "Parking Light, Tail light with ABS ] is the only reference I can find.
The 2 ABS motors draw a large amp and no doubt power would be controlled through a relay.
I've read all I can find about this system, but still cannot find an answer.

I know I can disconnect the large plug on the rear of the ABS motor but thought I could pull a fuse instead.

Anyone got a clue on this one ?

Also, I know I can pull the plug on the EHCS next to the actuator and power it directly.
I think the limit switches will still stop the pump at the center stand max point.

Thanks for any information you may have.

Cheers
I am not 100% sure what is your final goal into this - I assume you do not intend to ride the bike in that configuration anyway. So, I may offer something more simple than playing with that big IABS modulator connector:

1) If you unplug the rear brake switch connector, the IABS modulator will detect this when ignition is turned ON (during ABS self check). See attached picture...

2) When above condition is seen, the pump motors of the modulator will not function, although the modulator still has current. When the servo-motors do not run, the current drain is minimal.

3) With the switch unplugged, you will have a fault on dash AND only residual braking as defined in your owner's manual.


Note that above thinking is only valid for Integral ABS models (with noisy servos motor). Your 2006 model is equipped with this modulator.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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14,178 Posts
The only way to "unpower" the IABS is to pull the big connector as it is not fused. There is no relay. All the current to the pump motors is controlled in the "brain" of the unit with some large MOSFETs.

If you power the EHCS actuator direct by applying 12 v to the big plug, none of the limit switches are in the circuit. The unit will go full stroke until you release the current, but it will have achieved lift off on the center stand before it hits the stops and the relief valve kicks in.

Not sure just what you are up to this time Hilton.
 

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Miles of Smiles
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1,054 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks very much for that info.
Sorry, should have explained better.
Jenna has sat for way too long this time and prior to getting mobile again
I will thoroughly clean out the fuel system and do a Flush and Bleed of the brakes.
Normally after storage I pull the fuel pump fuse and turn the motor
over to get the oil around things prior to starting. I know possibly OTT, but after a lifetime flying call me careful.
Re the ABS, I want to clean out as much DOT 4 as possible without the motor running.
After I have flushed and bled the control circuits, and replaced what I can in the reservoirs with a syringe, I will do the wheel circuits with the funnel and fresh fluid.

Unplugging the rear brake switch connector, might be just the ticket. Can you elaborate on the wire colours to that connector.
Also maybe pulling this fuse might achieve the same affect Fuse box 1 Fuse #7 4A "Parking Light, Tail light with ABS.
I know the over complexity of this model's brakes is sometimes a pain, but I just love how well they work.

The info on the limit switches is just what I was looking for. Basically they are out of the loop with a
bypass of the onboard electronics. Makes sense.

Just one more question
Do you know what TERMINAL 15 and TERMINAL 30 do ?
Fuse Box 2 fuse #6 4A Terminal 15, instrument panel, control unit for EHCS
Fuse Box 2 fuse #7 4A Terminal 30, instrument panel, control unit for EHCS

It makes things difficult not having my bike at hand to just do a physical check.
Many thanks
Cheers
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
Joined
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14,178 Posts
I understand what you are doing now as I did 27 years in aviation maintenance. Unless the DOT 4 is heavily contaminated I think you have much a do about running the pump motors. That is the quickest way to flush the wheel circuits and essentially if you pull the old fluid out of the reservoirs first (remove the little white screens) you eliminate virtually all the old fluid ahead of the pumps.

I am not sure I agree with John's assessment of unplugging the rear brake switch and its resulting effects. Just have never done it and don't think it does affect the ABS since it is normally open and closes when you apply the brakes. Unplugging it would not have any effect I can see. But I am open to new things.

The two fuses for the EHCS are just switched (15) and unswitched (30) power going to the controller. The EHCS relay feeds unfused current to the motor.
 

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Miles of Smiles
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1,054 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks John.
I have often done that, removed the white screens and replaced the fluid using a large syringe. Very easy and certainly doesn't hurt.
The old fluid won't be awful, but after more than 2 years, didn't want it circulating at all. Probably just over cautious.
Info on # 15 and #30 much appreciated.

Thanks also to John [ sailer ] Easy to check when you have access to the
bike. Unfortunately I don't at the present time. Getting things ready prior
to being reunited. :)

Sometimes it sucks being curious but wouldn't change it for the world.

Cheers
 
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