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Morning, I have checked YouTube and asked several experts. I have no idea why the clearances would be so close, but I think I will try to machine a bit off of the top of a the four buckets. To take the head off and machine the valve stems seems just as bad as machining a bucket. I wish I knew if the valve clearances have every been checked before. I am sure of my clearance checks so we'll see I guess. .10 mm is a very small amount.
Before you start modifying parts, I would consider doing two things:
1. Check with a different set of feeler gauges as it may be you have a set that was stamped incorrectly or something.
2. Try to find someone else to check your clearances.

Anything is possible, but the likelihood that BMW made a head with every valve seat ground too deep is quite unlikely. Unless this engine has 300,000 hard miles on it, it is very unlikely that the seats have worn this much. No offense, but some of your earlier responses really make me think you aren’t familiar with checking valve clearances and likely are doing something fundamentally wrong. I would want to really, really be sure the clearances are this far off of normal before I start machining parts and likely messing them up and causing real serious problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Before you start modifying parts, I would consider doing two things:
1. Check with a different set of feeler gauges as it may be you have a set that was stamped incorrectly or something.
2. Try to find someone else to check your clearances.

Anything is possible, but the likelihood that BMW made a head with every valve seat ground too deep is quite unlikely. Unless this engine has 300,000 hard miles on it, it is very unlikely that the seats have worn this much. No offense, but some of your earlier responses really make me think you aren’t familiar with checking valve clearances and likely are doing something fundamentally wrong. I would want to really, really be sure the clearances are this far off of normal before I start marching parts and likely messing them up and causing real serious problems.
Good Point.
 

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Morning, I have checked YouTube and asked several experts. I have no idea why the clearances would be so close, but I think I will try to machine a bit off of the top of a the four buckets. To take the head off and machine the valve stems seems just as bad as machining a bucket. I wish I knew if the valve clearances have every been checked before. I am sure of my clearance checks so we'll see I guess. .10 mm is a very small amount.
Don't machine the top of the bucket which touches cam, use a dremel and carefully checking with a micrometer grind down the button inside the bucket that touches the valve, a few people have done that including me.

You need to be absolutely sure you have measured accurately
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Good Point.
Afternoon, I have checked double checked and triple checked the clearances and am quiet sure of the measurements. Four are too tight for a .15mm feeler gauge and a .10 will slide in nicely, so I am guessing around .12mm. I do have a .13mm and it is still too tight. I am confident that I am checking them correctly and of my measurement. I am checking with the lobe directly away from bucket with the valve completely closed. It is interesting that some other people have joined in this conversation and had the same issue. Grinding the inside of the bucket is a pretty tight maneuver, but maybe. The take the head off and grind the valve stem doesn't seem like a much better solution. I actually think you could grind the valve stem in the bike but it would be as tight as the inside of the bucket. This bike only has 59,000 kms. on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Afternoon, I have checked double checked and triple checked the clearances and am quiet sure of the measurements. Four are too tight for a .15mm feeler gauge and a .10 will slide in nicely, so I am guessing around .12mm. I do have a .13mm and it is still too tight. I am confident that I am checking them correctly and of my measurement. I am checking with the lobe directly away from bucket with the valve completely closed. It is interesting that some other people have joined in this conversation and had the same issue. Grinding the inside of the bucket is a pretty tight maneuver, but maybe. The take the head off and grind the valve stem doesn't seem like a much better solution. I actually think you could grind the valve stem in the bike but it would be as tight as the inside of the bucket. This bike only has 59,000 kms. on it
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Don't machine the top of the bucket which touches cam, use a dremel and carefully checking with a micrometer grind down the button inside the bucket that touches the valve, a few people have done that including me.

You need to be absolutely sure you have measured accurately
So what did you use to grind the button down ? What stone if you used a stone ?
 

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Afternoon, I have checked double checked and triple checked the clearances and am quiet sure of the measurements. Four are too tight for a .15mm feeler gauge and a .10 will slide in nicely, so I am guessing around .12mm. I do have a .13mm and it is still too tight. I am confident that I am checking them correctly and of my measurement. I am checking with the lobe directly away from bucket with the valve completely closed. It is interesting that some other people have joined in this conversation and had the same issue. Grinding the inside of the bucket is a pretty tight maneuver, but maybe. The take the head off and grind the valve stem doesn't seem like a much better solution. I actually think you could grind the valve stem in the bike but it would be as tight as the inside of the bucket. This bike only has 59,000 kms. on it
Being the intakes that are tight, if you that at lest 0.10 mm, I’d leave things as is and run the bike another 24,000 miles and check them again. If they haven’t changed, I’d continue to run the bike. If they go below 0.10 mm, I’d pull the head and have the offending valves “tipped” at an engine or machine shop that can do this properly as shown here.
 
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So what did you use to grind the button down ? What stone if you used a stone ?
It's been a few years, used a small 1/4 inch diameter stone with round end that came with the tool, patience and checking with micrometer a few places around the button periodically to keep the raised area as flat as possible, I tried with a stone flat on the end but it tended to skip around. I would think the bucket is industrial chromed, very shiny, smooth.
I did not feel it was a good idea to mess with the surface the cam pushes on. You need to keep the button as "square" as possible to the top of the bucket, I believe the bucket is rotated slightly by the action of the cam.
Cannot ride in the winter here so had lots of time, no rush.
When I read about the other fellas doing this I did not ask how they did it.
Of course the size marking in the bucket becomes meaningless.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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FWIW that bike that had the tight intake valves, 4 were @ 0.05 mm and one was @ 0.03 mm. It was running fine when it came into my shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I ended up taking three buckets to a friend that has a machine shop. He removed four thou from the inside nipple of the bucket. Reinstalled the cam and bucket and clearances are right on. Started the bike the other day and so far it sound perfect. When the bikes come out of the factor, what is the bucket size, does anyone know. This bike only has 59,000 Kilometers on it so I can't see them ever being changed.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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It is a random size but most of them I have seen on first adjustment were not all the same. Mine were mostly 2.95 and 2.90 with only one being a 3.00. Now I still have the 3.0 and the rest are 2.95, 2.90 and 2.85 at 116,000 miles.
 
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I ended up taking three buckets to a friend that has a machine shop. He removed four thou from the inside nipple of the bucket. Reinstalled the cam and bucket and clearances are right on. Started the bike the other day and so far it sound perfect. When the bikes come out of the factor, what is the bucket size, does anyone know. This bike only has 59,000 Kilometers on it so I can't see them ever being changed.
I have done many valves adjust on 5 separate K1200RS having fairly low mileage (15 to 30K miles) so In most cases the buckets in place were from from factory. The K1200RS engine is basically same engine as K1200LT - valve train is the same except for camshafts having more lift.

What I have found are he same sizes mentioned by JZEILER in previous post: the factory builds these engines new with mostly 2.90 , 2.95. You will also find about 30% of the buckets as 2.85 and 3.00.

More than 20 years of history here and on other forums shows minimal wear as these engine get more miles/Km. Anything below 2.70 is very rarely seen even on engine having more than 100,000 miles (160,000 KM).
 
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