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Discussion Starter #1
I am negotiating on this bike. It seems flawless on the cosmetic side. It has 77,000 km or 50,000 miles. I know very little about these bikes, other than they get great ride-ability reviews from owners. The price is $2700 but the catch is the bike will not start. Sat since 2016. Turns over when jump started on the dead battery. I wonder if this is just a bad fuel issue. I am trying to get service records, but current owner bought from an estate sale and never rode this bike. Are there any particular concerns I should be aware of? Thanks for any comments and help.
 

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Hi and welcome. Lots to look out for on these bikes but this is absolutely the best forum for answers and friendly conversation. My personal opinion is that I would look around for a bike that hasn't sat for so long since it's something you're not familiar with. For twice the price and less you can get a bike that you know runs, has upgrades and probably fewer miles. I know of two in my area right now. Great bikes. I really enjoy mine. Good luck with your search.
 

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50K is not a lot of miles so that isn't anything to worry about. If you do your own wrenching and are a fair mechanic, I am sure with the help of this forum and a Clymer manual you could get it running again. If you have to rely on someone else to work on it, if you don't have deep pockets, it may not be the bike for you. They are great bikes to ride and I love mine. It is likely a fuel issue if it cranks and there are a couple things to look for.

First, do you hear the fuel pump run? key on and ear on the right faring, you should hear it run for a few seconds, then stop. This can be repeated by cycling the kill switch on the right handlebar. You should hear it run for 2 to 3 seconds to prime the fuel rail. If not, then you have a fuel pump issue to resolve. There are no sensors in the fuel system so even if you hear it running, that doesn't mean fuel is getting to the injectors. If it does run, then open the tank and look in with a good flashlight and repeat the fuel pump prime with the kill switch looking for any large disturbance or spraying fuel inside the tank. This would indicate a blown rubber line inside the tank and will keep the bike from starting. If neither of those things appear to be the issue, then purging the fuel system of old fuel and trying again might do it. The fuel regulator will allow fuel to cycle through the rail once new fuel is in the tank by doing the pump prime maybe 10 or 15 times. If none of that gets it going, it will take some in depth troubleshooting to figure out why it isn't starting. There have been several instances of varmints crawling up and chewing on the wiring harness and that too can be fixed should it be the case but requires significant disassembly to inspect.

$2700 for a running 05 would be a decent price but there are likely some maintenance items that would need to be looked at immediately like brake line replacement.

Let us know if you get it and we will help you get it running.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I just bought this bike tonight, so my adventure begins now I guess. I can do my own wrenching for the most part. I just liked the bike and I have the sense that the previous owner, who was an elderly ex policeman, looked after this bike well. I bought it from someone who had no real interest in the bike, but he has owned it for just one year and never rode it.

I will get a new battery in it and start to play around.

I hope there is nothing crazy wrong.

Thanks for the comments. I am sure to ask a bunch of silly questions as I learn this bike.
 

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I owned a 2005 K1200LT for seven years - great bike - enjoy. There are some issues, like any bike, but this forum's 'experts' will give you the details. Best of luck.
 

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Can this bike display km/h instead of mph?
If it is one built for the US market it will not display KM/h. I had one and even though I lived in metric land (Canada) the bike had been bought in the US so it only displayed mph. If you are talking about the speedometer itself, I believe there are metric readings displayed on the dial, in smaller print, so you would know what the needle is pointing at; i.e., when dial is at 60 mph, the metric reading is a bit past 100 km p/h. Not sure if this is what you were asking or not.
 

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I just bought this bike tonight, so my adventure begins now I guess. I can do my own wrenching for the most part. I just liked the bike and I have the sense that the previous owner, who was an elderly ex policeman, looked after this bike well. I bought it from someone who had no real interest in the bike, but he has owned it for just one year and never rode it.

I will get a new battery in it and start to play around.

I hope there is nothing crazy wrong.

Thanks for the comments. I am sure to ask a bunch of silly questions as I learn this bike.
I had one and I loved the bike, but there were issues with the clutch. If memory serves me correctly it had something to do with oil getting on the clutch, or something like that, and people had to drill a "weep hole" to eliminate this. I bought mine 2nd hand and it seemed fine, but just after I bought it the clutch started slipping and I had the dealer check it out and had to have a new clutch put in and possibly some other things, I can't remember. It was expensive, but can't remember how much. You might want to search for old threads on that. Sorry my memory isn't better.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Follow what Gordon told you. You can pull the full pump w/o having to remove the tank.
Worst that can happen is that the fuel pressure regulator is clogged and you have to remove the fuel tank to git to it. Might want to replace the air filter if you have to go that deep.
 

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I will get a new battery in it and start to play around.

I hope there is nothing crazy wrong.

Thanks for the comments. I am sure to ask a bunch of silly questions as I learn this bike.
Just be aware that the starter relay has a circuit in it that prevents the starter from cranking the engine if the battery is low. I believe 11.5 volts with the key on it will not crank. Just keep that in mind once you find the fuel related issue in case it will not crank.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Battery installed. Cranks over but not firing up. Tomorrow I will drain the fuel. It smells off and is possibly from 2016.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Fuel system cleaner is a good idea. I will do that.

Currently, it is snowing because Spring has not fully sprung in Canada and I have this bike parked in my front entrance of our house. My wife not so pleased but I thought a great place to diagnose.

I will roll the bike outside so I can turn it over well.

Is there any “throttle three times or a choke or it won’t start on the side stand” or anything else that will make it not start?
 

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Fuel system cleaner is a good idea. I will do that.

Currently, it is snowing because Spring has not fully sprung in Canada and I have this bike parked in my front entrance of our house. My wife not so pleased but I thought a great place to diagnose.

I will roll the bike outside so I can turn it over well.

Is there any “throttle three times or a choke or it won’t start on the side stand” or anything else that will make it not start?
It is a fully automatic electronic fuel injection system. If everything is working right, you should not need to touch the throttle to start it, just push the button and it should start and idle.


There is a reset procedure you can do if the battery has been off for a long time. It helps the motronic relearn the idle position.
Turn the key on but do not start.
rotate the throttle form 0 to full and then release to 0
repeat that process 3 times
key off
then turn key on and push start but this will not keep the bike form starting so once you get the other sorted if it doesn't idle correctly at first start, then you may try that. Sometimes it does take riding it for a while for it to re-learn the idle position though after a dead battery or replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Is the the fuel priming sound the only sound when the key is turned?
I ask because I have a brief 1 second (ish) whine/whirring sound when I turn the key to on. I think this is the fuel priming sound.
 

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Use the kill switch with the key on. You should hear the whirring for a second or two each time you turn it on. It is a time based thing and not a pressure thing so it will run every time whether there is pressure in the line or not. If you hear it, look in the tank to see if there is a disturbance or spray. The fuel may move a little as if no busted hoses as the return from the regulator comes in at the bottom but that is not much disturbance. Having a half tank would make seeing a leak easier as the hoses would be above the fuel level.
 

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Is the the fuel priming sound the only sound when the key is turned?
I ask because I have a brief 1 second (ish) whine/whirring sound when I turn the key to on. I think this is the fuel priming sound.

Is there any “throttle three times or a choke or it won’t start on the side stand” or anything else that will make it not start?
Best to use the kill switch after you turn on the key to listen for the fuel pump as Gordon said. The iABS unit also cycles the servos at key on as a self test and the noise will cover the fuel pump sounds.

All the safety interlocks that prevent the engine from starting are all tied to the starter. So if the engine is turning over they are not a factor. Even the immobilizer in the alarm kills both the engine electronics relay and the starter.
 
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Discussion Starter #20
Using this “kill switch method”, I know that what I thought was the primer...is not. But I did manage to hear the much more subtle sound of the primer pump.

I also did find a blown fuel fuse. Replaced it and nothing changed. And then blew another fuel fuse (10a on this 2005). And now this fuse seems to not blow, but still no start.

I am attempting this on the side stand with bike in neutral.
 
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