[wArt]

I dread writing this post given all the other posts and videos on this topic. I've replaced all my lines and have the integral ABS on my 03, with the tall ports on the side, facing the rear. However, the fact is I'm stuck and frustrated need to confirm the correct sequence of what to do next.

I successfully pushed fluid from the tall ports into the reservoirs and from the calipers. It's the sequence of what to do next that I'm in need of, presuming the next step is to bleed the system. For the front, 1,2,3 and back to 1?

PICTURE 1: Do I have the ports correctly numbered for the front system? (I'm presuming the same for the rear system on the other side.)

PICTURE 2: Even with a bent 7mm wrench, what's the trick for getting it in the recessed area and getting it to turn?

What's the best I.D. size tubing for this job? Some pictures look like 3/16" is being used.

 

[jzeiler]

You are close the #2 is for the rear control circuit #1 & #3 are for the front. same for the rear. If you pushed fluid you should be OK. The control circuit will feel mushy until you turn on the key. But if you want to do the factory bleed you rotate through #1 , #2 (on the other side) then #3 and back to # 1 again until all bubbles are gone. Repeat for the rear control circuit Only this time you will use the #2 in your picture while #1 & #3 are on the inboard side. This is done key off and you can remove the big electrical connector to get a better grip on the nipples.

The bracket can be loosened and move the lines out of the way so you can get the wrench in there. If you bent it your self just grab it with a vice grip to turn it. (go easy)

 

[wArt]

Thanks, John. I'll give it a shot.

 

[ksbaltz]

Stu,

I just got through doing this last week! I pushed from the tall (long horizontal) bleeders on my ABS...same as yours..... up to the handle bar reservoir and the rear reservoir under passenger seat for both front and rear control circuits. I pushed from calipers to the front and rear reservoirs under passenger seat for the wheel circuits. On both Control and Wheel circuits, I pushed fluid until I saw no bubbles. For this I used the Phoenix V-5 Reverse bleeder that John recommended me to get.

On the Control circuits, I did not use the sequence from the shop manual. F1,F2,F3 F1 or R1,R2,R3,R1. Control circuits are fine.

On the Wheel circuits, I then used the normal flush direction and using the ABS pump to push fluid from the front and rear wheel reservoirs out to the calipers using Speed Bleeders. I connected tubing in place of the vent hoses up to a container of Brake Fluid sitting on a 1" X 12" board where the pillion mounts and let the ABS pump suck Brake fluid into the wheel reservoirs as I engaged with either hand brake or foot brake. Watch for air bubbles and watch to make sure that you don't go past the minimum line with the pump.

After doing this and on test ride...my rear wheel circuit was still spongy. I have a GS-911. I couldn't get the bleed test into the green for front or rear. Against the directions on the GS-911 read out...I pumped the brakes to build up pressure to get into the green. I did this a few times. Then I bled the front and rear brakes again. Did this two times. And now my bleed test show green. Pumping the brakes (with the Speed Bleeders closed) forced air down to the calipers...I did have air bubbles come out even though I did not seen any with previous bleeds.

Now I have very active/reactive brakes! Sponge Bob has left the house! lol

Just remember to first bleed the left side bleeder (left caliper) then the right bleeder on the front brakes and the same on the rear caliper (one disk01 caliper but 2 chambers and two bleed screws). If you bleed on the right side first, you can push air over to the left caliper chamber. Bleed multiple times per side is good.

If you haven't, buy the GS-911...it is worth the investment. Saves you a trip to the dealer....and down here in Houston, I was quoted $240 plus parts/materials to do the dealer Bleed Test. Sames as what the GS-911 does. and for $60 +/- a few $$ you have the GS-911.
A

And again, Thanks John for all your help and advice!

Regards
Karl

 

[sailor]

John and Karl have already given you the missing part of the puzzle...

See attached picture for complete list of bleed ports. Note that F2 is hidden on the other side of the ABS-unit. Picture was taken on a K1200RS - it is the same unit installed in same position as the 1st generation K1200LT (1999-2001 for USA market).

 

[bowdon]

Karl;

I was readying that you recently completed the brake cable change for the Spiegler. You also used the Phoenix V-5, just wondering which model you used?
I have the new Spiegler brake lines and would like to get a Phoenix but don't know which one is the easiest to use and cost effective!!

I know that John Z was going to do a line change on his LT at CCR this year. He also mentioned that he will be making a DVD of the event. I will be purchasing one when he has completed it for my winter project!!
Let me know how easy the Phoenix was to use and if it was worth it.

Regards,
Don

 

[wArt]

I was readying that you recently completed the brake cable change for the Spiegler. You also used the Phoenix V-5, just wondering which model you used?
I have the new Spiegler brake lines and would like to get a Phoenix but don't know which one is the easiest to use and cost effective!!

Y'all are using (or want to use) that fancy contraption John recommended. Glad the tool hound in me heard about it later 'cause I just went to a local medical supply place and bought a 60 ml (2 oz) syringe for about $4 (they wanted $8). Then I just used one of the tapered connectors from my Mityvac kit and used that to push the fluid with some clear tubing. Amazon has it here.

It can be startlingly messy if you push too hard too fast but it did the job.

 

[bowdon]

Stu;

I have done the flushes on my 2005 LT for the past 6 years with the funnel and syringes. This winter I will be changing the brake lines since they are 10 years this winter. If it was a standard flush, no problem, but this is a complete line change and its a 2005 which is slightly different then yours.
I think the fancy contraption would make it easier and not as messy!!
Don

Y'all are using (or want to use) that fancy contraption John recommended. Glad the tool hound in me heard about it later 'cause I just went to a local medical supply place and bought a 60 ml (2 oz) syringe for about $4 (they wanted $8). Then I just used one of the tapered connectors from my Mityvac kit and used that to push the fluid with some clear tubing. Amazon has it here.

It can be startlingly messy if you push too hard too fast but it did the job.

 

[jzeiler]

Well I only did one line at CCR and the Phoenix tool worked very well. It has very good control so no surprises. I will finish the video, but Kirk for Illinois BMW riders has already done the line change video so mine will focus on how to use the tool and some prep techniques before you remove the line that will help make the bleed simple.

 

[ksbaltz]

The Phoenix V-5 is the model that I used. It is like using the hand vacuum pumps..except that you are pushing fluid and not creating a vacuum to trap in a container...

I am not certain of this because I have not tried it....but using a syringe to push the volume of fluid needed to fill the lines could be problematic. Cause every time you disconnect the syringe you could induce air back into the fill lines.

For $60+/-, the Phoenix V-5 allows you to pull brake fluid from a quart brake fluid container...or even a pint size bottle and without having to disconnect a line continuously push fluid into the ABS up to the reservoirs for the control circuits and push from the calipers up to the reservoirs for the wheel circuits. After you are finished. You fill the V-5's reservoir with clean fresh brake fluid to store..after you wipe down the clear lines and the unit with a wet water soaked rag. As per instructions from manufacturer.

To operate the V-5, you pull back on the handle to load fluid into the reservoir and then squeeze the handle to push fluid out of the V-5 to charge the ABS and related lines and the Calipers and related line to respective reservoirs. and repeat until no air bubbles are seen in the lines. Check to see that you don't have what I call Micro-Bubbles moving in the lines...hard to see.

 

[bowdon]

Great new John, Will wait for the video.

Thanks in advance,
Don

 

[bowdon]

I will be looking to order the Phoenix V-5 in the next few days to have it when
I decide to do the line change.

Thanks Karl.

Don

 

[wArt]

I am not certain of this because I have not tried it....but using a syringe to push the volume of fluid needed to fill the lines could be problematic. Cause every time you disconnect the syringe you could induce air back into the fill lines..

You got that right! It does allow some air in, and honestly it's a bit messy and annoying. If I had to do it over again I would, indeed, buy that fancy contraption...or befriend Kirk since he lives within 3 miles or so from me.

 

[ksbaltz]

You are welcome Don.

Art..
Did you read me PM in reply to your PM?

 

[dmwradon]

Well I only did one line at CCR and the Phoenix tool worked very well. It has very good control so no surprises. I will finish the video, but Kirk for Illinois BMW riders has already done the line change video so mine will focus on how to use the tool and some prep techniques before you remove the line that will help make the bleed simple.

John, did you ever make the video focusing on the bleed after the line change? This will be my winter project on my 2005LT.

 

[FlyOrBike]

PICTURE 2: Even with a bent 7mm wrench, what's the trick for getting it in the recessed area and getting it to turn?

Here is an idea for a tool that will get to the IABS short, inside bleeder port without removing the battery. It has this twist in order to get a hose on the port.
-Kent

 

[jzeiler]

John, did you ever make the video focusing on the bleed after the line change? This will be my winter project on my 2005LT.

Never got enough good video to produce one. I did do a write up of some of the techniques I used and you can find it here.