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Hi All; :wave I am new to this forum but have been LURKING for the past few months. I just bought my first LT from a friend here in Colorado. The Good; I know the history of the bike since the PO was the original owner, I have a complete history of the maintenance. It's in excellent condition IMHO and will deliver many enjoyable miles of 2-up touring. And the price was right. The Bad; I have an oil leak at the clutch housing. There is no clutch slipping/slippage that I could tell of. The PO said the oil just started before he parked it early last season. So I'm hoping to just replace seals and move on.

With that said; I am taking the big girl apart, doing the throttle cable mod, replacing the rear main seal and trans seals, new slave cylinder, and brake lines (complete).

Question; I spoke with a BMW Service Manager last week at a BMW Club Meeting, told him about my purchase. He claims the clutch parts are different now and if you replace the clutch friction plate then you also have to replace the fly-wheel, spring plate and cover! He claims the thicknesses have changed and if you don't do everything then the clutch won't dis-engage?

I have this parts list from another post. I want to verify the parts AND if I replace the wear-able part (friction plate), will I run into a parts / tolerance difference since the bike was first put together in year 2000.

The store-house of knowledge on this site is incredible, I had a K75S some years ago and know the BMW community support first hand. Thanks in advance. ML

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachments/k1200lt/17780d1210471453-shopping-list-clutch-replacement-clutch_replacement_parts.pdf
 

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Hi All; :wave I am new to this forum but have been LURKING for the past few months. I just bought my first LT from a friend here in Colorado. The Good; I know the history of the bike since the PO was the original owner, I have a complete history of the maintenance. It's in excellent condition IMHO and will deliver many enjoyable miles of 2-up touring. And the price was right. The Bad; I have an oil leak at the clutch housing. There is no clutch slipping/slippage that I could tell of. The PO said the oil just started before he parked it early last season. So I'm hoping to just replace seals and move on.

With that said; I am taking the big girl apart, doing the throttle cable mod, replacing the rear main seal and trans seals, new slave cylinder, and brake lines (complete).

Question; I spoke with a BMW Service Manager last week at a BMW Club Meeting, told him about my purchase. He claims the clutch parts are different now and if you replace the clutch friction plate then you also have to replace the fly-wheel, spring plate and cover! He claims the thicknesses have changed and if you don't do everything then the clutch won't dis-engage?

I have this parts list from another post. I want to verify the parts AND if I replace the wear-able part (friction plate), will I run into a parts / tolerance difference since the bike was first put together in year 2000.

The store-house of knowledge on this site is incredible, I had a K75S some years ago and know the BMW community support first hand. Thanks in advance. ML

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachments/k1200lt/17780d1210471453-shopping-list-clutch-replacement-clutch_replacement_parts.pdf
Welcome to the forum Mark. The LT came out after the early clutch part change so there is only one listing and that is correct for the cover and pressure plate. It was the early 97 K1200RS that had different parts so if you go by the fiche on MAX BMW for the LT, your parts will be compatible with just a friction disk.

That being said, you still may have wear that would require replacement of those parts anyways depending on use and mileage.

As the clutch on these beasts wears, they wear in a dish pattern deeper on the inside than outside. If the dishing is severe enough, the contact area for your new clutch friction disk will be diminished and it could slip, cause excess heat and warpage. Take a few minutes and check the dishing on both plates to see how badly they are worn. If you can't do that, put a micrometer on the old friction disk at several places around it both inside and outside edges to see how badly the wear difference is.

I see some differences in your parts list versus what is on the MAX site. Go there and check the current part number for the 99-04 LT and update your list. The clutch plate 21 21 7 670 456 on line 7 is not what MAX has listed. Could be a typo or referencing the old k-RS part no longer available.
21 21 7 670 455 CLUTCH PLATE - D=180MM 0.68 1 $204.79


MAX BMW Motorcycles - BMW Parts & Technical Diagrams - K1200LT 99-04 (89V3)


As long as you are in there, I would get a Viton 19x4 O-ring instead of the stock BMW part on line 1 of your sheet. Beech has them and so do I. I can send you one free if you PM me with an address.


Be very careful with the trans output shaft as there is an oil hole just inside the seal lip and a few thousandths too deep and it will leak. Ask me how I know this. The special driver sets the seal only 50 thousandths deep. Very unforgiving.

There are many here who will watch and help you through if you have any issues. Just did it myself.

Gordon
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Gordon; FYI, 2000 K1200LT Standard with 54,000 miles. It's never been apart (from the back-side), all original.

I've been to MAX BMW, just haven't committed to the purchases yet, thanks for setting the record straight on the P/N'ers. Good advice on how to check the wear and trueness of the clutch and press plate. Starting the disassembly this weekend. Looking forward to it. Call me crazy! Now that the Super Bowl Victory Celebration in winding down, I have time to focus!

Mark, from Colorado
 

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Thanks Gordon; FYI, 2000 K1200LT Standard with 54,000 miles. It's never been apart (from the back-side), all original.

I've been to MAX BMW, just haven't committed to the purchases yet, thanks for setting the record straight on the P/N'ers. Good advice on how to check the wear and trueness of the clutch and press plate. Starting the disassembly this weekend. Looking forward to it. Call me crazy! Now that the Super Bowl Victory Celebration in winding down, I have time to focus!

Mark, from Colorado
Thanks for the PM, I will get that O-ring out pronto.
 
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You will find a link to a very helpful Clutch/O-Ring replacement document by clicking here. The link to the instruction is on post #2 of the thread.

Since you have the big girl apart, you should consider replacing the clutch slave as well.
 
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For the record; here is a look at what I have to work with.

I bought this bike for $4000. 2000 K1200LT, 54K on the clock, 1 owner, all service records and receipts, including an Excel Spreadsheet of every time he bought gas. I looked at some junk along the way before committing to this one from a friend and fellow member of the Rocky Mountain Motorcycle Riders Club. Bottom line, I can afford a $4000 dollar bike, they all needed something, but I didn't want to take on a "project", this one was by far the best piece and platform to start with. He referred to it as "His Baby" and it shows. A few seals, a little TLC and I'm good to go.
 

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For the record; here is a look at what I have to work with.

I bought this bike for $4000. 2000 K1200LT, 54K on the clock, 1 owner, all service records and receipts, including an Excel Spreadsheet of every time he bought gas. I looked at some junk along the way before committing to this one from a friend and fellow member of the Rocky Mountain Motorcycle Riders Club. Bottom line, I can afford a $4000 dollar bike, they all needed something, but I didn't want to take on a "project", this one was by far the best piece and platform to start with. He referred to it as "His Baby" and it shows. A few seals, a little TLC and I'm good to go.
Nice looking and although I am not up on all the colors for each year, it looks very close to mine. Good color :)

O-ring is packaged and I am sending you a bonus. When I had my mishap with seating the tranny output seal too deep and it leaked before I even got the swing arm back on, I ordered several after market seals so I had a couple spares. I am including that seal and the washer driver I made specifically to set it properly. I think it is a better seal than stock as it is double lip and the seal lip is about 20 thousandths closer to the seal facing so much more forgiving in missing the oil hole in the output shaft.
 

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Hello. Another newbie here, and another oil seal prompted clutch job. I have been reading this forum for over a year and I wanted to take this moment to thank all the members who write about their efforts and guide others from their experience. I have begun this job with confidence because of all of you and I wanted to say, I am grateful. Also, I mean to be sticking around and I hope to contribute as I learn more. My ride is a 2001 Blue LT. I have one question to field here: does any one have an after market clutch made by rbracing installed on their bike. They call it the RSR Street 360 and it is meant for stock rides. Looks interesting, just looking for reviews.
 

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Get a Clymer book to help you, fairly good. Here is a place to start reading too:
GregRS's journey into seal territory - I-BMW.com
I recommend you replace any rubber part disturbed, the crankcase vent hose, all tranny seals, all intake rubber parts (because you have to remove it to tilt the engine down in back), and go slow so you can keep track of stuff. Take pictures! Take notes. And it would not hurt to buy the factory dvd for their version on how to do this to blend with the Clymer book. Remember the BMW DVD and parts pictures show the "washer" under the output shaft nut backwards! Put the little thin edge towards the engine. There is a thread about that too somewhere with the one above. Pays to spend a couple of hours searching that site for the details.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Get a Clymer book to help you, fairly good. Here is a place to start reading too:
GregRS's journey into seal territory - I-BMW.com
I recommend you replace any rubber part disturbed, the crankcase vent hose, all tranny seals, all intake rubber parts (because you have to remove it to tilt the engine down in back), and go slow so you can keep track of stuff. Take pictures! Take notes. And it would not hurt to buy the factory dvd for their version on how to do this to blend with the Clymer book. Remember the BMW DVD and parts pictures show the "washer" under the output shaft nut backwards! Put the little thin edge towards the engine. There is a thread about that too somewhere with the one above. Pays to spend a couple of hours searching that site for the details.
Thanks beech; Clymer manual in hand. I've been reading more than a couple hours, more like a couple of weeks, I've subscribed to every thread that has anything good to say for reference.

I just spent the last 5 hours undressing the big girl. Fuel tank is off, battery out, exhaust is soaking in penetrating oil overnight. I found a spare key that the PO didn't even know was there (under the rear seat). Maybe BMW of Denver put it there when they built it up back in 2000. "?" Definitely a "BONDING" experience.

I ordered all the seals and clutch slave, My clutch was not showing any sign of slippage so I hope to just stop the seepage. I will do the weep holes and put her back together. If it ain't broke...

I am very impressed with the construction of these LT's. A lot of wires but well run and completely wrapped in oiled tape. I can't wait to get some miles logged on it this summer.
 

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Thanks beech; Clymer manual in hand. I've been reading more than a couple hours, more like a couple of weeks, I've subscribed to every thread that has anything good to say for reference.

I just spent the last 5 hours undressing the big girl. Fuel tank is off, battery out, exhaust is soaking in penetrating oil overnight. I found a spare key that the PO didn't even know was there (under the rear seat). Maybe BMW of Denver put it there when they built it up back in 2000. "?" Definitely a "BONDING" experience.

I ordered all the seals and clutch slave, My clutch was not showing any sign of slippage so I hope to just stop the seepage. I will do the weep holes and put her back together. If it ain't broke...


I am very impressed with the construction of these LT's. A lot of wires but well run and completely wrapped in oiled tape. I can't wait to get some miles logged on it this summer.
+1 on the bonding experience. You will either be inseparable or immediately sell it after this ;)
 

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Save yourself some grief and leave the reverser switches ON the shaft, and unplug the connector up on the frame. There are very fragile micro switches that can easily be damaged if you slide it off the shaft.
 

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Also, the wire going to the starter that you can see in front of the battery box. Follow that back and disconnect that wire at the junction in front of the rear fender. There is a 10mm connector with plastic caps that you can disconnect the wire from and snake it out with the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK; Bike is down to the last big parts to disassemble. FD, Swing Arm, Clutch Slave, Trans, Clutch all come off Saturday. I have a pile of seals and new bolt and slave and....

Q: On the MAXBMW fiche it show 2 part numbers for #10 in the trans exploded view

https://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51717&diagram=23_0855&partnumber=23122330135

P/N 23 12 2 330 135, and P/N 23 12 7 705 085, ???

I have both these parts here "in-hand" and just a little confused. I'm sure it will be self explanatory once I'm looking at them but figured some one here could shed some light. Thanks
 

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OK; Bike is down to the last big parts to disassemble. FD, Swing Arm, Clutch Slave, Trans, Clutch all come off Saturday. I have a pile of seals and new bolt and slave and....

Q: On the MAXBMW fiche it show 2 part numbers for #10 in the trans exploded view

https://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51717&diagram=23_0855&partnumber=23122330135

P/N 23 12 2 330 135, and P/N 23 12 7 705 085, ???

I have both these parts here "in-hand" and just a little confused. I'm sure it will be self explanatory once I'm looking at them but figured some one here could shed some light. Thanks
Mark, sent you 2 PM's regarding this but going to enlighten others here.

On the fiche, they don't show the far side of the transmission case so you can't see anything to distinguish what seals are there.

The #10 23 12 2 330 135 is the output shaft seal and that is also the seal I sent you with the double lip and the washer driver.

The second #10 seal is the slave shaft seal 23 12 7 705 085 and that goes in under the slave cylinder.

Remember, reassembly will require a 30mm socket with a cut out and an 12mm Allen wrench to fit inside to hold the pivot pins while you tighten the jam nuts. I had to cut my allen down to fit inside the cutout. Mine is home made and isn't pretty but it gets the job done. I lent my grinder wheel to a neighbor or I would have ground the edges down some. If you run into trouble, give me a shout.
 

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Good Luck with your new purchase of "the big girl". She looks great. Also good luck with the clutch job. Also, unless it has had recent maintenance and since your so close to 60K, you should do all preventive maintenance such as the air and fuel filter, new fuel line quick disconnects, and all fluid changes, etc.

Good luck and safe riding
 

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Mark, I hope you are taking pictures. We, or at least I like to see how people do this in different ways.

Whatever you are using to hold up the rear ( if you are going to lower the engine to get the transmission) make sure it can't move. I strapped my jack stands so they were hard against the back frame bits.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Transmission is out, clutch is next, a lot of parts carefully placed awaiting reassembly. All the new parts and seals are waiting to get their turn. No RED FLAGS other than some oil has been getting past seals. Just like all who have come before me. I will have the clutch opened up tomorrow and then I'll get to see what 54,000 miles on the friction plate looks like.

Pulled the Throttle Bodies, cracked case breather, not as bad as others, new parts none-the-less.

I was thinking I could just do the seals and re-use the clutch and parts... BUT, now that I have all this time invested I'm think'n NEW CLUTCH and parts now! I'll find out in the morning when I mic the friction plate.

Not like Christmas morning.
 

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Transmission is out, clutch is next, a lot of parts carefully placed awaiting reassembly. All the new parts and seals are waiting to get their turn. No RED FLAGS other than some oil has been getting past seals. Just like all who have come before me. I will have the clutch opened up tomorrow and then I'll get to see what 54,000 miles on the friction plate looks like.

Pulled the Throttle Bodies, cracked case breather, not as bad as others, new parts none-the-less.

I was thinking I could just do the seals and re-use the clutch and parts... BUT, now that I have all this time invested I'm think'n NEW CLUTCH and parts now! I'll find out in the morning when I mic the friction plate.

Not like Christmas morning.
Looking good Mark.

If you are going to use the drill an screw method to remove the seals, try and find something to go between the drill bit and the case walls. I used a piece of copper tubing that I split as a barrier so when the drill wandered, it didn't wander and gouge the aluminum. Go slow. The other option and I think it is listed in the Clymer is to split the transmission case and drive them out from the inside.
 
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