BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I pulled these parts out of my (New to Me) 2000 KLT with 54K on the odometer. I don't see any RED FLAGS. There is a "GLASSY" look to the steel plates, some dis-coloration, you can still see the original mill marks from when it was machined new. Everything is TRUE (flat).

Fiction Plate measures .225 inches. (That's 5.715 mm) Service limit in Clymer is .181 inches. (That's 4.597 mm) New measures 6.0 mm.

The Numbers; Current wear = .285 mm, Remaining life to service limit = 1.118 mm.

By those numbers, this clutch is at approximately one quarter 1/4 life gone at 54K miles.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,253 Posts
I pulled these parts out of my (New to Me) 2000 KLT with 54K on the odometer. I don't see any RED FLAGS. There is a "GLASSY" look to the steel plates, some dis-coloration, you can still see the original mill marks from when it was machined new. Everything is TRUE (flat).

Fiction Plate measures .225 inches. (That's 5.715 mm) Service limit in Clymer is .181 inches. (That's 4.597 mm) New measures 6.0 mm.

The Numbers; Current wear = .285 mm, Remaining life to service limit = 1.118 mm.

By those numbers, this clutch is at approximately one quarter 1/4 life gone at 54K miles.
If they really are flat, that is great. Mine had a couple thousandths dishing also at 56K but I re-used them.

This isn't mine but it is an example of the uneven wear usually encountered and what to look for. Mainly for those following along planning to do this any time soon.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
If they really are flat, that is great. Mine had a couple thousandths dishing also at 56K but I re-used them.
After CLOSER inspection. The PRESSURE Plate is showing .005 inch of wear on the inside edge with a straight edge across the entire distance. .005 inch at inner most point, tappers out to nil. .0025 half way across the surface. Seems very even, slight discoloration on inner 1/4", where the wear is the most (.005 in).
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,253 Posts
After CLOSER inspection. The PRESSURE Plate is showing .005 inch of wear on the inside edge with a straight edge across the entire distance. .005 inch at inner most point, tappers out to nil. .0025 half way across the surface. Seems very even, slight discoloration on inner 1/4", where the wear is the most (.005 in).
That looks very much like mine Mark. Smallest gauge I had was 8 thousandths and it wouldn't go under my straight edge so I am also probably at around 4 to 5 thousandths wear in the inner edge. I am not saying to use them but I did with a new spring plate. I have not had it up under a high speed 2 up load or out of my neighborhood yet but I did do some checking to see if it would slip and so far, it is good. I suspect as the outer edge wears a thousandth or so, the pressure will even out. Long story short, I may have less life out of this new oil resistant friction plate than if I had replaced the pressure plate and cover but I am not a hot rod stressing it out at every turn so I expect I will get " acceptable" wear and life from it. Bottom line, you will have less contact area across the friction disk face and accelerated wear at the outer contact edge until it catches up but that friction material will be gone forever. My disk at its thinest is .216 thousandtns or .00548mm. Good news is the new disk doesn't have any rivets to run into :) Keep posting your pictures, I have seen a large number of these K bikes needing this recently so many are watching with interest.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: mcracer and Patric

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
58 Posts
I think I see an oily clutch in two photos, that's a red flag! I'm doing the same job right now on my 2002. These bikes are 15 plus years old and the seals, regardless of miles are probably at the end of their serviceable life. For my bike I bought all new parts except for the aluminum housing. A big bite of cash but much less than the $3200 my dealer wanted! I saved some money ordering the Siebenrock oil "resistant" clutch from Hornig. (https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-K-1200-LT/Spares/Clutch_disc_oil_resistant-4.html)
Strong USD helps here and you don't pay VAT, which is more than shipping cost. Heck, I'm saving so much I bought the motorcycle lift from Harbor Freight for 240.00 plus tax! It's nice to stand up and work.:smile: Good luck with your clutch job and I hope to see you on the road!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,253 Posts
I think I see an oily clutch in two photos, that's a red flag! I'm doing the same job right now on my 2002. These bikes are 15 plus years old and the seals, regardless of miles are probably at the end of their serviceable life. For my bike I bought all new parts except for the aluminum housing. A big bite of cash but much less than the $3200 my dealer wanted! I saved some money ordering the Siebenrock oil "resistant" clutch from Hornig. (https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-K-1200-LT/Spares/Clutch_disc_oil_resistant-4.html)
Strong USD helps here and you don't pay VAT, which is more than shipping cost. Heck, I'm saving so much I bought the motorcycle lift from Harbor Freight for 240.00 plus tax! It's nice to stand up and work.:smile: Good luck with your clutch job and I hope to see you on the road!

I also got the HF lift to do this job but replaced the inadequate wheel clamp with something better. Just make sure that when raising the back end either when dropping the trans or just raising it to get stands under it in plans of lowering the motor that you take into account that your straps holding the front of the bike will need to be adjusted. DO THIS CAREFULLY and at the lowest lift position as you don't want to dump the bike :)

My HF wheel clamp is still in bubble wrap. I never intended to use it. I have something much more substantial. You have to use the reverse on such a heavy bike to get it back out though .
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: radar41

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,345 Posts
I couldn't get the pics to load. I wanted to see the pressure plate to see if it had any "hot spots" on it that look like metal smears. If it does, it needs replaced. Once that metal is moved, it becomes a problem if it gets hot again. I changed the clutch disc on mine
kept the pressure plate because it was clean. It's a lot of work to get in there. I wouldn't put an old disc back in.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,345 Posts
I misunderstood your post. I thought you were asking if any of it was good enough to be reused. My bad. The clutch disc looks like mine did after the slave leaked on it. Some of the fibers were missing and it had the burnt clutch glaze on it. Looks like they may have caught it early and went ahead and run it. Does it have the weep hole drilled under the slave? If so, that would be my guess.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I think I see an oily clutch in two photos, that's a red flag!
This is the first time I ever saw one coming out. All the pic I find are of the NEW clutches going IN. I was wondering if this is OIL contaminated? It is black-ish. AND there has been oil leaking from seals. Both; Trans input seal and Engine Rear Main leaking (New parts going In). The dust is not powdery dry but not sticky wet either. ??

BTW; The Clutch Slave is not leaking. This is not a slave cylinder failure. New Slave is going in also, because it's time!
 

Attachments

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
Joined
·
13,899 Posts
The dust is not powdery dry but not sticky wet either. ??
That is what I had on my LT. Not wet but not completely dry. Main suspect was the o-ring on the clutch housing where it is held on the output shaft. (also based on what I see on you pic of the housing) The main seal leak will never make it into the clutch unless the bell housing fills with oil.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mcracer

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,253 Posts
That is what I had on my LT. Not wet but not completely dry. Main suspect was the o-ring on the clutch housing where it is held on the output shaft. (also based on what I see on you pic of the housing) The main seal leak will never make it into the clutch unless the bell housing fills with oil.
That was the only part of my job that I didn't photograph. Mine had the same stuff around the inside of the bellhousing. It smeared when you wiped your finger across it so there was at least some component of oil in it. The streaks inside Marks clutch basket also look like the O-ring was marginal and failing. I managed to get mine out in one piece but it was hard as a rock.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mcracer
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top