I've managed (with the help of some of the friendly folks on the forum) to put 1000 trouble free miles on the LT...until today. My ABS lights are alternating. Every time it flashes in my face I hear a cash register "chinging".....looks like diagnosis and repair of this is a pain in the a$$. They alternately flash as soon as the ignition is turned on which is one of the factors in determining a direction to look from what I've read? How many of you have had similar issues and just stuck a piece of electrical tape over the lights and let them flash until they burn out? Am I losing anything other than the actual ABS function? Brakes seem to function as they were prior to alarms. The bike has spent far more time stripped down naked in the garage than out on the road and I'm tired of wrenching and just want to ride the freaking thing....
2000 ABS WARNING LIGHTS....
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I am not familiar with the early ABS, but hopefully JZ or someone will chime in.
Not to be discouraging, but if you don't like wrenching ... an LT probably isn't your best choice of motorcycle. I am looking at a KLR650 at the moment. I plan to keep my LT, but need another bike to ride during the times the LT is down for maintenance or repair. And I want something simpler and lighter for my local solo trips. I considered one of the F series BMWs, but decided I also want to get away from BMW's ridiculous parts prices and the need for twenty special tools to work on it. The Kawasaki looks like it fits the bill. Inexpensive, simple, reliable, and tons of aftermarket support.
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Yes Sir...I'm in the same boat. I'm pretty handy with a wrench and even enjoy it. I've got a ZX9 that I use for sporting stuff and only want the BMW for 2-up weekends with the wife. As soon as I got the Beemer I stripped it...A/F, plugs, fuel lines (internal and external), fuel filter, all the fluids, braided lines, HH pads, throttle cable upgrade and multiple other fixes....I'm just a bit demoralized that after running only 2 tanks of gas through it after all that....I've got a potential major problem with it.
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It is more likely a piston fault but that would need to be confirmed with a GA911 or dealer diagnostic. The good thing about the 00 like has already been stated is you never lose your brakes with an ABS fault like you might on the 02 and newer so go ride it, just be aware that you don't have ABS and you can lock up your wheels.
If you can find someone local with a GS911, you can reset the fault and exercise the ABS some and see if it will go away. It may for a time but it may also come back fairly quickly. The system tests itself periodically and can go into a fault any time it does while riding. Go ride it and have fun, just remember the ABS is not functioning and you will be OK. No need to remove it as it won't cause any problems I am aware of.
Welcome to the forum javenmcd and fill out your profile a little more so we know where you are and who is close.
Take a look at this post:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/30942-works-abs-2-fault-reset-long.html
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/30942-works-abs-2-fault-reset-long.html
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As mentioned, check fluid levels and one of the most overlooked items is the sensor clearance to the "pickup ring" front and rear!! My 00 did the same thing, sensor clearance was out of tolerance (to wide), adjusted and all is well.
Tell us where you are, maybe someone close has a GS911.
Tell us where you are, maybe someone close has a GS911.
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There are no fluid level sensors on US LT's prior to 02 so that is not the cause of the ABS wig wag. Generally, the two lights would flash together at key on and then go out once both front and rear ABS wheel sensors are sensed and the lights would go out. If a wheel was not sensed, it would set a fault and I am unclear if that particular fault remains requiring a hard reset or would reset with a key off and back on again only to return after moving again. It should be stored in the ECU either way that a wheel sensor was faulty. If it doesn't reset and go back to both flashing looking for wheel motion, then this could be an issue and the procedure mtrevelino posted a link to or a GS911 would be required to reset the fault to see if it returns. Either will tell you what the fault is but the GS911 is much easier although pricy.
Again, some more information about where you reside might bring forth someone close with one willing to come help. I reset one recently that showed a piston fault and it worked for a couple weeks and then it returned so likely something marginally bad inside the unit needing attention. Would be helpful to know what fault you are experiencing.
Relax, it is most likely something simple, and may be related to your Cruise Control issue as the same switches are used for both systems.
Does it pass the initial key on test?
Does it pass the rolling test?
How do the lights flash? Alternating or Together?
Have you checked if all the brake lights work?
Does it pass the initial key on test?
Does it pass the rolling test?
How do the lights flash? Alternating or Together?
Have you checked if all the brake lights work?
Hi Alabrew....can you elaborate on the "rolling test?" I've sorted the cruise issues and it continues to work fine. The lights alternate as soon as the key is turned. I hope you're correct about the simplicity...I had hoped that I had a low battery but the lights don't reset even when the battery is full and on a float charge.
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The rolling test is when at key on both lights flash together and then go out once you have moved a few meters. You have a different issue. You have a hard fault with alternating at key on and to know what it is, you will need a diagnostic device ( gs911 or dealer ) or to follow the test procedure laid out in the procedure posted by mtrevelino.
EDIT: The only light that would matter is the center rear light as that is powered by the ABS module itself so it knows if that one is burned out or not and I believe it would only illuminate the warning light. The rest are via a relay off the battery so it has no knowledge if those are working or not.
Update: the center brake light (tail light works) does not illuminate. Pulled the bulb. The filaments are both good. I switched the bulbs around to insure I had a good bulb in the center socket but the brake filament does not come on when the brakes are applied....thoughts?
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I would have to check but I suspect it might be that your ABS is already in a fault condition and the light may come on again if it was cleared. It is powered through the ABS so I am only speculating that because of the fault, it is not lighting the light. I think it only lights the warning light if the center bulb is out not the alternating fault you are experiencing.
I was afraid you were gonna say that. I guess I'll have to hook up an analog meter to the diagnostic pin and see if I can decipher the pulses its sending to get a code? I'm starting to eliminate the cheap stuff....guessing I'm moving into more expensive territory. :crying:
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Some people do the reset and it doesn't come back or hasn't for them. My friend was not as lucky as that but it lasted 2 weeks. He is still riding as the pre 02 simply loses the ABS and not the brake function. It is no less safe than any other bike with no ABS in its current state although it may be a bit heavier than most. Good luck on the reset and I would exercise it after the reset and see if it comes back. Leave the test wires in place and tape them up so you have easy access if you need to try it again. Rear exercise is easy. Just try and lock it up. Front is more difficult especially if it fails and you are skidding your front wheel. Those that do, do it very carefully so not to dump the bike. A hard pack gravel road works well with a quick light squeeze of the front to engage the ABS but not holding it long enough to lose control. Here is my disclaimer. You do this at your own peril and if you don't feel comfortable or skilled enough then don't do it. Just keep resetting it and replace if necessary or put some black tape over it and enjoy the riding.
Good luck.
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If you do decide to take the risk of doing this exercise, you don't need to be going 50 mph. 10-15 is sufficient to allow the abs to engage.
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If you get to the point where you determine if you have a piston fault, there is a write up by someone on a possible way to fix that and it doesn't even require removing the ABS unit from the bike. I searched and found the link jzeller posted so here is the link to that thread. Take a look and see if you may want to do the first part and clean the piston and bore. You still will need to be able to reset the fault once done so take a look. A less expensive potential fix if you have the piston fault. It is a very good write up with pictures.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/technical-files/144530-abs-ii-tear-down-article.html
Have you changed the brake fluid? Now see from your Cruise Control question you just changed brake lines...
Might want to try pushing fluid up from the caliper as a back flush.
I think I would get the battery load tested to make sure it is up to snuff.
Are you holding a brake on when you turn the key, IIRC it won't pass the self test.
I "exercise" my ABS each ride on a downhill washboard road to a stop sign.
Might want to try pushing fluid up from the caliper as a back flush.
I think I would get the battery load tested to make sure it is up to snuff.
Are you holding a brake on when you turn the key, IIRC it won't pass the self test.
I "exercise" my ABS each ride on a downhill washboard road to a stop sign.
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