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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 99 lt I just pick up week ago with a bad clutch ran great no issues starting ect... pull bike apart after reading and learning what needed to be don't gothink clutch in all swap and put back together. Forgot battery was super low left key to acc spot and didn't know that had that tell found out the hard way. Put battery in try to jump it and all i got was click click at this time pump would come on just fine but bike wouldn't turn si I pull battery out charge up 100% put in hooked up battery and made sure on center stand sidestand up in f not reverse check in natural also kill switch in center. Still get nothing no pump and no cranking at all when hit starter button I've check my wires to starter hooked up right I've check my fuses. Try play with alarm nothing I'm at lost I know my starter isn't getting pwr to starter when hit switch and my pump isn't getting pwr at the bottom were pump hooks up only power of get is on top of tank like 3.2v up on top plug... hopfully all this info some one has had problem like me can help me point me into the right direction....
 

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Well bump to the top of the list. Let's start with your battery. You have no history on it and you killed it once. What is the voltage across the terminals when you hit the start button. Less than 10 (maybe 9 if your lucky) volts or so and it is no good. Then there is the start relay. Good on you for being able to do a clutch job on the bike, that is a huge job. Go slow and use logic to follow power to the starter and starter relay system. The Clymer manual is not too bad, can be quite a bit of help.
 

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John Zeller ( jzeller) recently told someone with a similar issue after taking the battery out for an extended period of more than a few minuntes but not sure how long that the alarm system may have gotten out of sync with the fob as it uses a rotating code system. If the pump ran before you pulled the battery to charge and it doesn't now, then you either have an alarm issue or an interlock issue disabling the system. Also, make sure you don't have a missed wire hanging lose for the battery.

If the pump doesn't run at key on, is the alarm still disabled or does it clear? Check the reverse knob and cycle it, make sure the side stand is up and that it is not in gear. Check the kill switch position, I know, just saying and check the clutch handle switch.

I do not have an alarm on mine but John said to work through the fob whatever that means to the point where it syncs back up with the alarm. He said he had to do over 40 cycles on one to get it back in sync.

If it has been retrofitted with the new blue starter relay, that has a cut out below 10V to protect the relay. Check the battery voltage key off and key on to make sure it is high enough to engage the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I charged battery was 12.8v when I try starting it. I get nothing when I push my start button no sounds no lights dimming nothing. All radio lights ect are working fine. Just not sure why the start and pump don't get pwr I swap pump relay around didn't help. Check starter relay get pwr in it but not sure other then the red wire what should have pwr? The distribution blocks both only show ground with test light neither one of them are getting pwr the driver side were starter wire runs to isn't hot either not sure what's going on all my wires are ran right... any ideas what to check next?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Try mess with alarm it does work when I click it I get one beep two beeps and a really loud horn when I don't have it off. Sometimes if it's on I turn the key to on it will beep once. I made sure put stand up, play with reverse fwd gear, made sure in neturel, start button kill switch in center,alarm off from what I can tell,key on battery charged and still nothing no click no sounds. I have a brown and black wire on my ground side is all and two on positive side and of corse few accessories hooked up are there any more wires I'm missing as far as the main ones?
 

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I charged battery was 12.8v when I try starting it. I get nothing when I push my start button no sounds no lights dimming nothing. All radio lights ect are working fine. Just not sure why the start and pump don't get pwr I swap pump relay around didn't help. Check starter relay get pwr in it but not sure other then the red wire what should have pwr? The distribution blocks both only show ground with test light neither one of them are getting pwr the driver side were starter wire runs to isn't hot either not sure what's going on all my wires are ran right... any ideas what to check next?
The distribution blocks are ground ( brown) and the link between the starter and the starter relay ( Black) I believe so neither one will be hot unless the starter relay is engaged.

This still sounds like an interlock issue. Either the alarm is not clearing or one of the interlocks is open preventing the load shed relay from closing. I do not have or know how to use the alarm with the fob so does the alarm clear when you turn on the bike. Don't have my book with me to trace the schematic and see where it ties in.

Put it in reverse and turn the rear wheel back and forth a bit in order to move the starter. If that has a bad connection from worn brushes, it might affect this as the starter is the ground through the brushes for the load shed relay. If it makes a difference, then you may be looking at pulling it apart again and replacing the starter. I just did this with a friend on his LT for starting issues very similar to this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Exactly what I thought starter took crap so I pull all apart again took it to local shop had looked at tested said work perfectly and inside was perfect to. I'm not sure if one beep means alarm is off or two buy I've try both ways and I get nothing. I'm stumped cause I know my startery is good I have a fully charger battery my connections are tight and right yet no pump or cranking at all...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks I think I'll go ahead take the alarm system out! I'm in salem oregon you? Appreciate all the help I'll keep you all updated I hope it's just the dang alarm..
 

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Exactly what I thought starter took crap so I pull all apart again took it to local shop had looked at tested said work perfectly and inside was perfect to. I'm not sure if one beep means alarm is off or two buy I've try both ways and I get nothing. I'm stumped cause I know my startery is good I have a fully charger battery my connections are tight and right yet no pump or cranking at all...
Well, if your starter is good and you did the wheel bump in reverse anyways regardless of what you think, then you have an interlock issue. Some people have damaged the switches behind the reverse knob in removing them or while removing the transmission. WIggle that knob and hold it forward to see if you get any pump action. Measure the side stand switch. It has contacts for both down and up. Recheck all the plug connections. Something is lose or missing if it worked before and not now. Look really hard around the battery and make sure you didn't miss a wire that should be on one of the posts. If all you did was pull the battery, focus in that area. You missed or damaged something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I've looked it over and check wiring so many times I can't find any wires I'm missing I took switch off tran before removal so wouldn't get damages and Imy think about take alarm out just got figure it out all wires 90% look time be blk and trying to make sence of post to were you cab take bypass it ect but can't find anything matches wat I'm reading on forms to how to take it out thinking you guse are right about alarm makes sence with no fuel and no start that alarm is problem just need figure that out to atleast rule that out
 

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U I've looked it over and check wiring so many times I can't find any wires I'm missing I took switch off tran before removal so wouldn't get damages and Imy think about take alarm out just got figure it out all wires 90% look time be blk and trying to make sence of post to were you cab take bypass it ect but can't find anything matches wat I'm reading on forms to how to take it out thinking you guse are right about alarm makes sence with no fuel and no start that alarm is problem just need figure that out to atleast rule that out
Justin, I have not messed with the alarm system so I can't guide you in that area. jzeller may be able to chime in and give some more things to check and where to look for instructions to remove the alarm if you think that is the culprit.

Most people damage the reverse switches while removing them before dropping the trans so it is widely recommended to just leave them on so they don't get damaged. You can measure them to see if they are functioning properly. Did you remove or touch anything else in the span between removing the battery to charge it and replacing it? plug or unplug anything at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have went over all plugs and wiring see if I missed anything only thing I forgot plug in is the clock mpg cluster but dought that controls starting and fuel? I hook reverse back up no damge it went smoth just slid it carefully over the two nipplesides and put back three alend bolts it shows on dash reverse when in and off when not... I just don't see any missing wires I failed to hook up or nothing... do you have a picture of your battery and cables that are hooked up to your maybe I can compare mine to yours?
 

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I have went over all plugs and wiring see if I missed anything only thing I forgot plug in is the clock mpg cluster but dought that controls starting and fuel? I hook reverse back up no damge it went smoth just slid it carefully over the two nipplesides and put back three alend bolts it shows on dash reverse when in and off when not... I just don't see any missing wires I failed to hook up or nothing... do you have a picture of your battery and cables that are hooked up to your maybe I can compare mine to yours?
I don't have a picture of my battery handy and I am not sure it would be the same depending on extras like alarm system. Something changed from the time you removed the battery to the time you replaced it seeing you had the pump run before. I would recheck all the fuses WITH a meter, not just by looking visually to be sure.

Still sounds like one of your interlocks is open so you are going to have to check through them and see where the disconnect is. I don't remember what fuse it is but from the ignition switch, 12V enters the right multi function switch on a green wire, passes through the kill switch and out a green with red stripe and on to the interlocks and emergency shut off and motronic relay. You can get into the electrics area under the tank and check the wires on the left multi switch for power from there to the relays. Or you can get into the right switch cluster and do the unthinkable of pushing a pin through both the green and green with red wire without pulling the tank and measure across them and even short them out to see if the kill switch has died. If you have a T2 torx bit, you can disassemble the switch and try to test it directly. Going to take some detective work to find where the breakdown is if nothing is obvious.

I burned out my kill switch and had to track it down that way as i had the same issue as you but I knew I burned something out from trying to use an incompatible relay. Most of the insulation around the wire bundles had deteriorated so accessing the wires was easy. I taped them up with cloth friction tape as it went back together to protect them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
OK I'll look into that... where and what are the interlocks again? I'm gonna try alarm found image shows how bypass it I'll give it shot. I've check all fuses with my snapon test light also has a volts display. All getting pwr to both sides and I have tank of of the bike try test wires for power I'm not sure what should and shouldn't have pwr.... I just can't wait to ride this bike! Atleast I hope starting to lose hope in it... :-/
 

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OK I'll look into that... where and what are the interlocks again? I'm gonna try alarm found image shows how bypass it I'll give it shot. I've check all fuses with my snap on test light also does volt display. All getting pwr to both sides and I have tank offor of the bike try test wires for power I'm not sure what should and shouldn't have pwr.... I just can't wait to ride this bike! Atleast I hope starting to lose hope in it...
If you have the tank off and the electrics box open, you can access the right multi function switch plug. It is in the area circled in red and can be identified easily as it is a black 10 pin plug with a single heavy wire coming off it connecting to the blue plug that can be seen in the picture. You can measure the switches there and also test for 12V leading to the switch cluster from the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok, I'll see what I can come up with now trying to understand stand I need test for pwr on it when pressing the starter button or I should have pwr all time there?
 

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Ok, I'll see what I can come up with now trying to understand stand I need test for pwr on it when pressing the starter button or I should have pwr all time there?
Power comes into the switch from the ignition switch on the green wire and then goes up to the kill switch where it is either stopped in kill position or passed through on the green with red stripe back down to the connector. The green will have 12V all the time with key on and the green/red will or should change with the change of kill switch position. If you can find the two pins and measure the switch closed and open, you can then find where the 12V should be where the plug is connected to the harness.

Green wire must have 12V with key on. If not, then ignition switch or fuse is suspect.
Green/red should have 12V in run position and not when on either side.

If this all looks OK, then you need to measure the side stand switch. It plugs in on the left side under the tupperwear with the 4 connectors together.

There is a check for the side stand down while in gear so make sure that you see the gears change up and down in the display indicating you have the gear position selector attached to the rear of the transmission correctly.

The reverse controller is part of the interlocks but I don't recall how to test that.

I believe the clutch handle switch is also part of the interlocks so test that.

It also could be a bad relay. There are two located underneath the connector block where the multi function switch connects separate from the 6 easily visible at the top of the electrics box. One of those is the emergency cut off relay, the other is the brake light relay. If you pulled any relays out, make sure it didn't push any of the connectors out through the bottom and is not making a connection any longer.

I will think on this some more and try to come up with more to test regarding the interlocks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for all the input really helpful information gonna go out try testing all this stuff after I get home from getting my boy from school I'll give you up date later hopfully all this and I'll have good news cause I'm going crazy not know what it is... any other info think might be helpful let me know. Appreciate it really hope one of these things will fix it and get her on the road wanna cruise to beach with wife for are anniversary this month...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
U man anyway I could get call if you have time I disable the alarm connected pin 3-4 and 5-6 got nothing still I'm not sure what test or were to go now if could call me give me some advice and what to try and how over phone really mean alot call me please if you can 503-999-1224
 
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