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Discussion Starter #1
Bike: 2004 K1200LT, 140,000 km's (approx. +/- 90,000 miles).

I will be getting the annual service done on this bike over the winter. It still has the original brake lines and fuel line and will be getting these replaced. Had new Ohlin shocks put on it last year as the originals were shot. Have pretty much maintained the annual service on this bike since new so it's in pretty good shape overall.
Is there anything else I should be looking at in view of the age / mileage on this bike?
Thanks very much for the learned advice from the group.
Dave LaFoy
Calgary, AB, Canada.
 

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It sounds like you have a good one there. I could go through a very expensive list including the clutch housing O-ring and the final drive crown bearing but just giving things a good shake to see if there is any obvious play like the rear wheel, front wheel bearings and the pivot bearings on the swing arm to make sure things are still tight. Have a look see at the top of the engine to see if the breather tube has cracked and is leaking condensed oil vapor on top of your engine. If your slave cylinder is original, you might consider replacing it as the throw out bearing is in the end of it and if that goes, it is one of the things that will take your clutch with it but that is not a cheap easy replacement. Not much is on the LT.

If it is running well, you could just run it until you have any of those above issues as having a dealer go through all that would be several thousand $US Biggest safety upgrade will be the brake lines already on your list and the internal fuel rubber lines will keep you from getting stranded should one of the old ones blow out from ethanol poisoning if it is in your fuel. If it isn't leaking oil, keep riding it.
 
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How about cleaning and re lubing the starter. Re lube the centerstand bushings. Lube the drive shaft splines and if your bold pull the shaft and check the U-joints for wear, notchy action. Then you can lube the splines. Check the steering damper. Of course fresh brake fluid is a nice thing but I'm sure you do the basics with all those miles. (I just remembered the starter can be hard to get out without lowering the engine, but one can. The dealer might not want to fuss with it as it is a multi hour job)
 
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(I just remembered the starter can be hard to get out without lowering the engine, but one can. The dealer might not want to fuss with it as it is a multi hour job)
You have a procedure for that or a link to someone who has documented it? I don't want to drop my engine but if I could do it as a winter project, I might be interested. When I did my clutch and O-ring, I ignored the starter.
 
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So many things to think about when doing that O-ring job. The list is very long, besides the oring. So here is a way to do it that is fiddly but you do not have to do the big engine drop.
BMW K1200RS/GT Starter removal w/some cleaning. - I-BMW.com
This is an overlooked item much of the time. Mark the case and ends for location of course. Open slowly. In general a little moly paste/grease on the commutator end shaft that goes into a bushing and the ball bearing gets some grease. A little light (30psi) air cleaning, maybe some contact cleaner on the commutator and call it good. Eye ball the brushes. If short and needing replacement I'd look to Euromotorelectric for parts or a new one.
 
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So many things to think about when doing that O-ring job. The list is very long, besides the oring. So here is a way to do it that is fiddly but you do not have to do the big engine drop.
BMW K1200RS/GT Starter removal w/some cleaning. - I-BMW.com
This is an overlooked item much of the time. Mark the case and ends for location of course. Open slowly. In general a little moly paste/grease on the commutator end shaft that goes into a bushing and the ball bearing gets some grease. A little light (30psi) air cleaning, maybe some contact cleaner on the commutator and call it good. Eye ball the brushes. If short and needing replacement I'd look to Euromotorelectric for parts or a new one.
Ahh, good write up but that would be a no go on the LT with the reverse as the starter is double ended into the tranny and the engine so you have to separate the two to remove the LT starter. Was wondering how it would be done and on the RS and GT, the starter is single ended so it is possible to remove it like that.
 
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I'll remember that. I have never worked on an LT.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks very much for all the feedback. So far have had no major problems with the bike and hope to keep it running for some time yet. Some of the points aren't covered on the annual inspection/service checklist so will talk to my service tech guy about them. I don't do these big service items, don't have the expertise or tools and don't have a warm place to work in the winter so like to have the bike ready for summer riding next spring.
 

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Forgot to mention about the Ohlins. Made a big difference as the original shocks were bottoming out on the back. Usually ride 2 up and my wife was getting jarred pretty hard sometimes. The dealer set them up pretty hard initially so I had to fiddle with the adjustments to get a softer ride. They have lots of adjustment though so by just following the manual provided, and doing test rides on the same stretch of road, we got a comfortable setting.
 
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My son has just moved back to Calgary (from Oz) to live for another couple of years and posted pics of snow on his new accommodation last night... guess riding time is about over up there?
 
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My 02 had rubber brake lines and they went south after 8 years. The lines disintegrated from the inside and caused a sticking caliper which caused one pad to wear out prematurely. If the 04 has rubber lines then you are very lucky. Get rid of them and install some Spieglers. They fit perfect for an LT. Sorry about the Grey Cup loss.
 
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