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Discussion Starter #1
I had a GS of the same year prior to this bike, and did my TB sync with little issue. With this one, I just can't seem to get it. Bike is warm, Twin Max calibrated, Idle at max sensitivity, Then adjust my way up to 4000 RPM stopping at 2K and 3K on the way. Check it again, before I tighten everything down and all is well.

When i tighten down the nuts, I use the two number 10's and I swear that top curl nut does not move. Then, when I start up again and recheck on the TM, it's off again. Not much, maybe .25 +/- on one side. Then I try again, and it all repeats. I spent all morning on this simple task. Am I just trying to hard to make it perfect?

Also, I never ran my GS at the speeds I run this RT (80-90 and 4500RPM+ plus at cruise), but I just seem to get this buzz in my feet, and a very slight vibe in the bars that I don't recall on my GS. I know I should feel this bike, but how much, and yes I know that's subjective? Again, am I just trying too hard and being hyper sensitive to any vibe?

On two previous TB syncs on this bike, I did do the valves first. This one was just a TB sync due to above mentioned vibes.

Thanks
 

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You might try doing the adjustments at just over idle speed.

Paul Glaves of the BMW MOA technical articles as well as on the MOA site recommends doing the TBS there... since it is there at the the left and right hand sides throttle bodies are at their most noticeable and measurable differences. His argument is that doing the TBS at these lower RPM's yields better results.

And, another thing to try... after you get the Twin Max (I use one too) to zero and you tighten down the two nuts... and you STILL have a slight imbalance on the re-check is to use a needle nose pliers to attempt to turn the knurled end of the cable on the side you are working on. Of course being careful not to squeeze too hard.

Let us hear how it goes.
 

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Not sure if I'm reading it right so I'm sorry if not.
When locking the nuts you want to hold the bottom and turn the top to lock it down, not the other way. It might be moving a little as you lock it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
GRB60 said:
Not sure if I'm reading it right so I'm sorry if not.
When locking the nuts you want to hold the bottom and turn the top to lock it down, not the other way. It might be moving a little as you lock it.

Seriously? I'm an idiot then. over two years of boxer ownership and I've been doing it all wrong. I thought the bottom nut was loosened which allows you to turn the top nut. Then, once done, you hold the top nut in place and tighten the bottom.
 

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Xdriver said:
Seriously? I'm an idiot then. over two years of boxer ownership and I've been doing it all wrong. I thought the bottom nut was loosened which allows you to turn the top nut. Then, once done, you hold the top nut in place and tighten the bottom.
You're doing it correctly and what you experience is not unusual. When you tighten the jam nut it will pull up on the adjuster.
You can do one of two things. One, keep the jam nut snug but not final tight when you do the adjustment keeping a wrench on the jam nut when adjusting. Second, turn the adjuster in a tiny bit so when you tighten the jam nut it will compensate then be in spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. That makes more sense. I'll give it a shot. Now I just have to get motivated to take off all the plastic again.
 

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hopz said:
You might try doing the adjustments at just over idle speed.
+1

Try 1800 to 2000 RPMs ... IMHO there's no point in going higher.

Also, you might just be a little too picky about getting them perfectly matched ... I understand that as I also suffer from Pickiitis. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think it was some pickyitus. I tore the bike down and did it again this morning following some of these suggestions. It's was a little better, but in hind sight it was never that bad. I think I just need to remind myself that it's a twin, and it's a motorcycle. One of the reasons I bought into the whole boxer thing is because it does have some visceral feel vs a 4. I'm a pilot by profession, and so as a default everything I drive/ride, I notice every little noise, vibe, and rattle.

On a good note, I have my plastic removal time down to 20 mins, and back on in 25 all without having any screws disappearing into the twilight zone.

Thanks again for the suggestions.
 

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It those two screws under the inside, beside the front wheel that irritate me.

If not for them, and with my power screwdriver I think I do it in 15 minutes either on or off.
 

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hopz said:
It those two screws under the inside, beside the front wheel that irritate me.

If not for them, and with my power screwdriver I think I do it in 15 minutes either on or off.
Those screws are a bit of a hassle, but for me it's the wires that go to the radio controls on the left upper panel. They are very difficult to disconnect so I generally remove the screws and then hang the panel from the handlebars. Do have to be careful, once I didn't notice that the panel was resting against the exhaust pipe when I started up the engine to sync it ... experimental evidence proves that the temperature of a hot exhaust pipe is well above the melting point of the plastic used in the panels.

JayJay
 
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