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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks - Drained my fluids this week, opened all three holes and I just have a couple of questions about final drive and transmission fluids.

Final Drive:
1. Per attached picture, is the 09 RT's final drive fill hole on the left where the set screw is located, or do I need to remove the sensor on the right?

2. How many ml or cc does the final drive takes? I order the 24/36K maintenance kit from bmw boneyard and what I have is 75W-90 API-GL5 liqui-moly oil

Transmission:

1. How may ml or cc does it take. I heard to fill it to the point where the oil fill hole is just flush. Also using the same 75W-90 API-GL5 liqui-moly oil from bmw boneyard.

Thanks,

DC
--------
2009 RT
2009 Ultra
 

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DCR1200RT said:
1. Per attached picture, is the 09 RT's final drive fill hole on the left where the set screw is located, or do I need to remove the sensor on the right?
The fill hole with the Allen hex on the left was specifically added to the original FD design so that you don't have to remove the sensor.

DCR1200RT said:
2. How many ml or cc does the final drive takes? I order the 24/36K maintenance kit from bmw boneyard and what I have is 75W-90 API-GL5 liqui-moly oil
The spec used to be 230 ml; BMW issued a service bulletin reducing the fill volume to 180 ml.

DCR1200RT said:
Transmission:

1. How may ml or cc does it take. I heard to fill it to the point where the oil fill hole is just flush. Also using the same 75W-90 API-GL5 liqui-moly oil from bmw boneyard.
The "to the bottom of the fill hole threads" level is correct. IIRC, that's on the order of 800 ml.
 

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The picture shows the ABS sensor. The screw holds it in and that IS NOT the fill hole on an '09 or newer bike..

In the pre- '09 years one removes the rear wheel, removes the set screw you mention and carefully backs out the ABS sensor. The resulting hole is used as the "Fill" hole after the final drive is rotated downward toward the floor and the drain screw removed...

Again, on earlier years bikes, the drain screw is replaced, the drive re-installed and the ABS Sensor/fill hole is used to add 180 ml of lube.

The lube you mentioned is the correct specification.

NOTE: IF you have a bike with two recessed screws in the final drive... as seen from the right hand side... there is a screw on the final drive housing at the 9 o'clock position and another at the 6 o'clock position... then you only have to open the 6 o'clock screw to drain, and you re-fill by the 9 o'clock screw... to the level of the hole- which is pretty darn close to 180 ml.

The transmission is drained, then re-filled to the bottom of the fill hole, which is almost exactly one quart. Do not fill higher than the fill hole!

An additional tip for new DIY guys. For the transmission service... OPEN the FILL HOLE first. This large fill hole screw is known to be VERY tight. IF you drain first and then cannot get the fill hole open you will be in trouble. Open the fill hole first!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok got it on final drive fill hole and 180ml. Now the challenge is getting an angled long stem plastic bottle at Walmart or Target to pour the fluid to an exact amount of 180ml for delivery to the FD. The Liqui-Moly bottles have built-in nipples to direct the fluid, but these bottles are 500ml so I need a container to measure 180ml on the money.

By the way, I have left the drain plugs open for three days now and I believe most of oil has drained out. With that said, would it make sense to increase the FD to perhaps 190 to 200ml?

By the way, I did remove the transmission drain plug first before draining the oil—and yes, it was very tight, but the FD drain plug was the tightest and the allen wrench was size was SAE not metric—which was odd for a metric made bike…

Thank you all for your responses.

DC
-----------
09 RT
09 Ultra
 

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DCR1200RT said:
Now the challenge is getting an angled long stem plastic bottle at Walmart or Target to pour the fluid to an exact amount of 180ml for delivery to the FD. The Liqui-Moly bottles have built-in nipples to direct the fluid, but these bottles are 500ml so I need a container to measure 180ml on the money.
Try you local hairdresser -- they have appropriate-sized bottles with 2-3" nozzles for dispensing hair color dyes, etc.

BTW, keep perspective -- you need to be at 180 ml +/- a small amount -- not 180 ml +/- 0.0002 ml. Be reasonably accurate, but don't obsess; this a couple gears and some bearings rotating in a half-filled pool of oil with sufficient air space above the oil to minimize pressure build-up (to avoid creating seal weepage). BMW's decrease of the fill spec from 230 ml to 180 ml was stated in the service bulletin to be specifically for the purpose of creaing more air space in the drive.

I have no way of knowing for sure, but I suspect the 180 ml number is not a precisely engineered number, but just a "right ballpak" number set by the FD guys in Germany because it happened to correspond to filling the FD up to the bottom of the threads of the fill hole (which has been the practical fill standard at least since the /5 was introduced in 1969 -- I've never measured by ml an air-, oil-, hex-head or K-bike FD volume -- always filled to the bottom of the fill hole threads).

DCR1200RT said:
By the way, I have left the drain plugs open for three days now and I believe most of oil has drained out. With that said, would it make sense to increase the FD to perhaps 190 to 200ml?
No.

DCR1200RT said:
By the way, I did remove the transmission drain plug first before draining the oil—and yes, it was very tight, but the FD drain plug was the tightest and the allen wrench was size was SAE not metric—which was odd for a metric made bike…
There are *no* SAE fasteners on an '09 R12RT (I had one). That your Allen didn't fit well is more an indication of the extent of variation in tolerances in wrenchs and bolts heads.

That said, if you have an SAE Allen which fits the plug better than the proper metric Allen, by all mean use it to minimize deformation of the Allen hole -- smart of ya to think and then hunt down a better-fitting tool.
 

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DCR1200RT said:
Ok got it on final drive fill hole and 180ml. Now the challenge is getting an angled long stem plastic bottle at Walmart or Target to pour the fluid to an exact amount of 180ml for delivery to the FD. The Liqui-Moly bottles have built-in nipples to direct the fluid, but these bottles are 500ml so I need a container to measure 180ml on the money.

By the way, I have left the drain plugs open for three days now and I believe most of oil has drained out. With that said, would it make sense to increase the FD to perhaps 190 to 200ml?

By the way, I did remove the transmission drain plug first before draining the oil—and yes, it was very tight, but the FD drain plug was the tightest and the allen wrench was size was SAE not metric—which was odd for a metric made bike…
DC - The final drive drain plug is a Torx fitting, which is why you found the SAE hex wrench fit better. I don't recall what size Torx off the top of my head, but using a hex wrench in Torx fittings will round them out and you won't be able to get anything to fit the next time. Don't ask how I know ...

Go ahead and use 180 ml for the final drive. You don't want to be second-guessing the factory spec. I suspect that the reason the volume was decreased from 220 ml was to give a little more head space to allow pressure damping with heating and save the seals.

I made a custom fill system consisting of ABS drain pipe with a cap glued on, then drilled the cap and threaded in a tubing fitting. Mostly stuff I had around the house. The trick is to trickle the fluid in the final drive. If you dump it in it will back out the hole, down the final drive and onto your brake disc - not a good place for lube. The mechanic at my dealer said that you should take about 20 minutes to fill the final drive, so that's about 10 ml/minute. The tranny fills up a lot faster.

Pyrex liquid measures from the kitchen work fine for figuring volumes. But leaving it for the wife to clean after you've used it is a real career-limiting move. Again, don't ask how I know ...

JayJay
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wow thanks for pointing out the torx vs Allen wrench. Yes I do remember now that after I removed the FD drain plug, I noticed the torx fittings. Good thing, I did not "round" the fittings.

It is interesting to note why BMW would go for different drain fittings at the engine (Allen), transmission (19mm socket), & FD (torx)...there must be a good reason why...I guess lesson learned...when the presumed tool, in this case SAE Allen looks like a good fit, I should have questioned myself the validity of the tool that I am about to use…was not the correct one…good lesson learned.

Thank you all.
 

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DCR1200RT said:
It is interesting to note why BMW would go for different drain fittings at the engine (Allen), transmission (19mm socket), & FD (torx)...there must be a good reason why...
I suspect that the engine designer wasn't the transmission designer who wasn't the final drive designer who wasn't the engine designer ...

I had a Ford Taurus where the body was SAE and the engine was metric, or maybe it was the other way around. And let's not get started on oddball SAE sizes like 21/32". Or Whitworth fittings in old British sports cars.

Keeps the toolbox full and heavy. I've got tons of old SAE tools that aren't useful any more.

JayJay
 

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on the subject of filling... or better said... how to fill...

I have a glass beaker graduated in metric volumes. I measure 180 ml and a skosh more to accommodate the film left in the container. I then pour this volume into a huge hypodermic injector- available at any industrial hardware supply house.

To the end of the hypodermic I have attached a 3 inch piece of vinyl tubing. Insert, press the plunger slowly and viola...

:dance:
 

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Just to add to the body of knowledge in this thread: Just changed the final drive oil on my 2011 RT. Fill hole on my bike is on the back of the final drive housing at about the 2:30 position. 180 ml of 75W-90 will just start coming out of the fill hole. You must take your time filling the housing - I used a small syringe with the needle removed and a piece of aquarium tubing stuck on the end of the syringe - sucked up the gear oil from the container and then "pushed" it into the housing 10 cc at a time. The fill hole on my bike is an allen key (I think it was 6 mm), not a torx bit. Not sure if this is the same situation for 2010 and 2011 models. Hope this helps someone.

In addition: anyone have any info on recommended FD and Trans oil for these newer RT's. (I got the oil from my dealer after a service issue regarding the first service - they sent me some Castrol gear oil that I don't seem to be able to find elsewhere) Thanks for any info.
 

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My 2008 RT has the fill hole. I just changed the oil and filled it up to the bottom of the fill hole. It took about 250ml. I haven't ridden it yet so I'll drain it into a graduated cylinder and see how much actually is in there if you fill it to the bottom of the fill hole.
 

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Good plan to drain it. Extra trouble. But as mentioned the new spec of 180 mls. is to help with the "no vent" problem and blown seals. Air heads use to have a nice little vent. humm....the old days.
 

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R1200RG said:
My 2008 RT has the fill hole. I just changed the oil and filled it up to the bottom of the fill hole. It took about 250ml. I haven't ridden it yet so I'll drain it into a graduated cylinder and see how much actually is in there if you fill it to the bottom of the fill hole.
WOW! I thought it took about 250ml. I drained out 380ml! Put 180ml back in. So if you fill it to the fill hole you have about 380ml in there.
 
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