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I had my first oil change at 600 miles and piad $300 for it so at that point i decided i will be doing All My own change from day forward unless it can get complicated...now my bike has 4000 miles on it but sitting a year so its time to change it and i am going to tackle it myself...i have read several things in here where to buy and what to check....and of course now that i need help i cant find any kits ??? I know the bone yard sells kits ....are thy worth it???I also plan on getting a david so i can put it on my Laptop in the garage while performing my dots to her....i do have all the tools i need....believe it or not and i thought i had the info save but it has been lost.....help me out here please ....Boneyard for parts right??? dont toy sell a package



Any help you can throw my way i will take and appreciate I am not a proud man here i am going to whang it,,,,,,i am sure i can change the oil without spending the $400 BMW Charges thud Change will be next week so i can order parts all i need to know is the best please to order them from?so please help
 

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"I also plan on getting a david so i can put it on my Laptop in the garage while performing my dots to her."

I too have ALWAYS wanted a david so that I can perform dots! :snork

(but please don't whang it in public - or you'll get arrested like Pee Wee!) :rotf: :D
 

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Not too sure about some of those things you are doing.. I THINK you are talking about changing OIL on your BIKE...

First.. get a Clymers manual for your bike.. 2005 and up should work... It will answer a lot of your questions..

Next, there are lots of threads on this site.. that talk about Oil changes..

Do a couple searches.. you'll probably find before I do..

Maybe not.. http://www.bmwlt.net/ubbthreads/sho...K1200LT&Number=154958&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1

Enjoy...

Here's another one... it's in the "Techinical" link at top of the page.. here's another ..

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/faq.php?faq=how_maintenance#faq_how_faq_maingear
 

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Well, Dennis, you've asked a lot of questions.

a). First of all, the $300 "oil change" at 600 miles was not only oil change - it was the 600-mile service. There is a bit more to it.

b). You ABSOLUTELY should learn how to change your oil - this is a routine maintenance item. If properly set up, this procedure takes more time for cleanup than the actual change.

c). Beemer Boneyard is Highly Recommended. Their kits are great.

d). Spend a lot of time reading the manual, reading the recommended service interval chart, reading posts on this forum. I am getting an impression that you just entering the LT-land and that you need to find out a lot. Make sure that in your rush to avoid dealer service you do not miss important required procedures later on in bike's life, like transmission oil change, final drive fluid change, brake flush, clutch fluid flush, etc. You can save a lot by DIY, but you can also screw up a lot.

Hope this helps.
 

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Changing the three (3) major fluids take about an hour and requires several special tools that are easily located. There must be several articles in the Halls of Wisdom. In addition to the two different oils, one for the engine and one for the rear end (Final Drive) and Transmission, you'll need an oil wrench, several sheets of newspaper and kitty liter, the tools and several different size funnels. Oh, and some way to dispose of the used oil. It's a good time to look over the bike. No need to remove any plastic.
 

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Doing your own maintenance is a lot of fun. Take your time and enjoy the experience. One little hint. You will need a socket type 14mm allen wrench to remove the drain plug from the bottom of the gear box. A 9/16 allen will work just as well. The only thing is it can be difficult to find a tool this large. I bought a 9/16 inch hex wrench at the local True Value store for 5 or 6 bucks and cut about 2 inches off the end and cemented it into a 9/16 socket. It is very difficult to remove the plug without this tool. This shut me down one night until I made the proper tool. I just figured I would weld a nut to the bottom of a bolt with a 9/16 inch head and pull it. Wrong! That plug was in there tight!

The Clymers manual is a must. There is also a set of DVDs by Paul Sayegh that will help

Have fun!

Loren
 

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Working on the LT is a lot of fun. You should learn to do all the maintainance your self as having BMW doing the work will cost a lot of money. We are here to answer all of your questions and to help you out along the way. Good luck!
 

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Working on the LT is a lot of fun. You should learn to do all the maintainance your self as having BMW doing the work will cost a lot of money. We are here to answer all of your questions and to help you out along the way. Good luck!
 

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I found the right size socket at AutoZone. Someone here had mentioned that's where it can be found easily but you do have to buy the 3 pack.

wa1200lt said:
Doing your own maintenance is a lot of fun. Take your time and enjoy the experience. One little hint. You will need a socket type 14mm allen wrench to remove the drain plug from the bottom of the gear box. A 9/16 allen will work just as well. The only thing is it can be difficult to find a tool this large. I bought a 9/16 inch hex wrench at the local True Value store for 5 or 6 bucks and cut about 2 inches off the end and cemented it into a 9/16 socket. It is very difficult to remove the plug without this tool. This shut me down one night until I made the proper tool. I just figured I would weld a nut to the bottom of a bolt with a 9/16 inch head and pull it. Wrong! That plug was in there tight!

The Clymers manual is a must. There is also a set of DVDs by Paul Sayegh that will help

Have fun!

Loren
 

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Dan,
Dont' you have to remove some plastic to fill the transmission? I seem to remember it'd be near impossible to do without removing it.

dandiver said:
Changing the three (3) major fluids take about an hour and requires several special tools that are easily located. There must be several articles in the Halls of Wisdom. In addition to the two different oils, one for the engine and one for the rear end (Final Drive) and Transmission, you'll need an oil wrench, several sheets of newspaper and kitty liter, the tools and several different size funnels. Oh, and some way to dispose of the used oil. It's a good time to look over the bike. No need to remove any plastic.
 

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Naaaaaaaaaaaaa just the right foot peg. Three screws on the plate and one just above the brake peddle. I tie it up out of the way with a little bungee. By the way, it took me about 2 hours the last time I did it. Seemed to not be in a hurry, wife had a sandwich ready and I just enjoyed the experience. Nice warm day in December...
 

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dandiver said:
Naaaaaaaaaaaaa just the right foot peg. Three screws on the plate and one just above the brake peddle. I tie it up out of the way with a little bungee. By the way, it took me about 2 hours the last time I did it. Seemed to not be in a hurry, wife had a sandwich ready and I just enjoyed the experience. Nice warm day in December...
I was confused Dan. I think it's because when I did it, I did have the tupperware off for other projects. But you've now jogged my memory about the instructions from the Clymer manual.
 

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When I was quoted 1700.00 for a 12k Service and one tire from my local dealer, I ordered the 12K kit form Beemer Boneyard and spent the day in the garrage. Total cost was about 250.00 in parts, 30.00 in tools and 225.00 for th tire. It was a great expereince and I saved a bundle.

I also changed the rear pads recently. 160.00 quote frm the dealer. I paid BB 27.00 for the pads and changed them myself in 15 minutes.

The guys here were great with any questions I had. Do it yourslef and save!
 
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