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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will contact dealer i was looking at parts diagram at max bmw it looks like the stock tensioners are different from left and right the left has the spring the right doesn't is that correct..meaning that only the left needs replacement..Thanks
 

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My '09 was idling a bit rough and I think I know what you mean about the "knock"; heard it knock, then about 4 - 7 seconds later, it would knock again. Definitely not a rhythmic knocking. I was able to smooth out the idle when I calibrated the idle actuators and synched the throttle bodies.

If this IS the source of your knocking, then all you need to do is find someone with GS911 tool and a manometer (CarbTune, TwinMax, etc).

HTH,
 

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I can't say that it sounds different than mine, or that I hear any unusual noise there.
And mine was serviced twice by two dealers and revved by a third service department and a long time rider/salesman.
They just sound like tractors.
But the balance might help a tad. I have the Harmonizer, which checks the balance much easier than the manometer. And, you could check the valves first.
I also checked mine. They were spot on.
dc
 

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Vulch how many miles on the bike? I agree with some of the comments here that it sounds like a cam chain tensioner. Is the obvious correct? oil level, grade and age? Its basically a hydraulic lifter and a bit of grit or small blockage could keep it from extending and taking up the chain slack. The sound is similar (as far as I can tell from the recording) to me when I start my bike after its sat, which I attribute to the tensioner bleeding down. It only lasts for a second. I have 56,000 miles on my 2006 RT and the tensioners have never been changed. I've included a link to a GS tensioner change photo spread that is well done. Please keep us posted
JP

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69360&highlight=chain+tensioner
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
diverjp said:
Vulch how many miles on the bike? I agree with some of the comments here that it sounds like a cam chain tensioner. Is the obvious correct? oil level, grade and age? Its basically a hydraulic lifter and a bit of grit or small blockage could keep it from extending and taking up the chain slack. The sound is similar (as far as I can tell from the recording) to me when I start my bike after its sat, which I attribute to the tensioner bleeding down. It only lasts for a second. I have 56,000 miles on my 2006 RT and the tensioners have never been changed. I've included a link to a GS tensioner change photo spread that is well done. Please keep us posted
JP

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69360&highlight=chain+tensioner
Hi i have 43000 km oil is fresh 20w50 and i do here a noise at start up but it goes away quickly this noise is different .the other day after riding for a while came to a red light and the noise was quite loud it almost sounded like something was loose like a body panel or something like that but i checked all that.
 

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David13 said:
{snip}...And, you could check the valves first...{snip}
YES! Thanks David! I forgot to mention that you should adjust the valves BEFORE a TB synch. The idle actuators can be calibrated at any time. I'd start there.

Some say that the calibration of the actuators can "drift" over time. I'm not sure that there is any empirical evidence to support this but, as they say, it couldn't hurt...
 

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beech said:
Do you have the up graded cam chain tensioner on the left side?
I've been lurking and posting on this and 3-4 other BMW forums for the past two years. I've never heard of ANY cam chain or tensioner problems on the R1200 engine. I believe this may have been a trouble source on the R1100/ R1150 engines, maybe some K bikes...

Larry
 

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Sounds quieter than my 07 RT and that`s just been serviced!
A lot of then rattle a bit from a hot start when it's been left on side stand for 1/4~1/2 hr.
Oh mines done 67k now, sounds worse when good and hot.
\v/
 

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After looking at some references on the web... I believe, but could be wrong... that the Cam Chain Tensioner issue was an R11XX and R1150XX thing.

I think the R1200XX's have the new/revised one.
 

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TheoM said:
YES! Thanks David! I forgot to mention that you should adjust the valves BEFORE a TB synch. The idle actuators can be calibrated at any time. I'd start there.

Some say that the calibration of the actuators can "drift" over time. I'm not sure that there is any empirical evidence to support this but, as they say, it couldn't hurt...
The GS911 will tell you exactly what they are doing. And also that they reset or recalibrate on every start up.
So I suspect that is not the issue.
No one needs to buy a GS911. You can make friends with someone who has one.
dc
 

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No. Those valves appear fine to me. The gauges went in, and did not fall out. They were not pinched or too tight. I do not believe you can humanly get better than that.
However, to locate tdc, I would not recommend using a hard metal screwdriver. I recommend a soft plastic fast food straw, or a chop stick, or a pencil.
You can get the screwdriver wedged in there if you get it to the side, and gouge the cylinder wall. You don't want to do that. Don't take the risk.
dc
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes i was reluctant to use a screwdriver but i was careful .had a wood dowel but to thick to fit .I also did a throttle valve sync the hardest part is tightening the lock nut without moving the settings
 

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Did it start right after the oil change? If so, you might try 10w-40 instead. Canadian climate isn't hot enough to need the thick stuff.
Just a thought. No doubt many here use 20w-50 without problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
GRB60 said:
Did it start right after the oil change? If so, you might try 10w-40 instead. Canadian climate isn't hot enough to need the thick stuff.
Just a thought. No doubt many here use 20w-50 without problems.
i have used 20w 50 since i got the bike this spring.i have heard this noise for some time it just seems worse .i just came back from a ride it sounds better but will have to ride a few times to really tell
 
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