[smahon]

Starting this new thread as a place holder to log my fix and collect suggestions. I've researched a lot but the one result that both matched my symptoms exactly and followed up with a: "This worked for me"...did not work for me.

Background event:
I left the radio on over night last weekend and discovered a dead battery heading off to work Mon morning. 15 minutes on the charger had it started and I was off to work. On the way I noticed that the radio would not turn on....I've seen this once before...once home I disconnected the battery, waited a couple minutes, reconnected it, and it was fine. I next reconnected the charger and gave it a proper charge overnight.

Symptoms:
Since then, the bike chooses unpredictable moments to stall when slowing/stopping and pulling in the clutch. It first happened the next day after riding on the highway at quite high rpms (7k+) and exiting. It stalled for the first time at the red light at the end of the exit ramp. In the middle of 3 lanes of traffic I was panic stricken, and was only able to get it started by goosing the throttle. Take-off was erratic, but it ran fine at speed.

It has stalled on nummerous occaisions since, after both high rev riding and normal. It doesn't stall with every stop and I cannot predit when it will. If I'm rolling, popping the clutch will restart it; if I'm stopped I need to goose the throttle.

Tried so far:

1. Seemed to be the clasic TPS and I performed the reset sequence (key on, bike off, WOT twice, key off); didn't help; performed it again; still didn't help.
2. There is no sucking of air when opening the gas tank

All the other search results seem to not apply or were never followed up to confirm a fix, so I start my journey to a fix here.

 

[kellenbenz]

A couple questions Steve:

How old is your battery?

What kind of charger did you use at what amp setting overnight?

Was the radio the only thing left on overnight? ( key in the ACC position)

Ron

 

[smahon]

Hey Ron.

How old is your battery? Odyssey pc680 purchased on 08-18-2008, so just shy of 4 years and operating perfectly after the recharge.

What kind of charger did you use at what amp setting overnight? The charger is an automatic 15/2/0 lead acid battery charger that indicated fully charged, 0 amps in the morning.

Was the radio the only thing left on overnight? ( key in the ACC position) Yes, the key was in the ACC position. What was running was the radio, with AUX selected, the GPS, and a Baehr intercom.

 

[gary45]

my pc680 that was purchased 2 years ago actually 6 years old according to date of manu sticker - I would check just out of curiousity - the fella I buy from, sells whatever you want, told me there was a lot of old stock pc680 being sold in North America

 

[Cochinosucio]

Sounds alot more like you just killed a cell in the battery. From what I have read, she acts kinda squirrely when that starts to happen, one symptom being stalls at low rpm, especially under 2K. It is possible, and probable, that the battery will show a full charge on the trickle charger, and on the fluke meter, but it will dump under load. Pull the battery and have it load tested at your favorite shop.

 

[kellenbenz]

If the battery load tests good, I would find someone with a GS 911 and run the faults. It has the ability to adjust the TPS.

http://www.hexcode.co.za/products/gs-911/ma24

Ron

 

[gunny]

Disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes and then do the TPS.

 

[smahon]

I pulled the battery last night and promptly dropped one of the bolts. It fell into the ABS tray and slipped between the ABS and the tray....ARRRRRRRGH! This morning abandoned all efforts to retrieve it until I get a good magnet. I can see it but can't get to it. Whatever, I have a replacement and I don't think it can harm anything where it's at. Anyhow, I will perform the TPS again and go for a good long ride as soon as I'm done with my morning coffee.

my pc680 that was purchased 2 years ago actually 6 years old according to date of manu sticker - I would check just out of curiousity - the fella I buy from, sells whatever you want, told me there was a lot of old stock pc680 being sold in North America

Hey Gary, got me wondering, pulled the battery, but the date code is 0708, so it was quite new when purchased. Clearly doesn'r rule out a bad batt, but at least my source had a fresh supply at the time.

 

[gary45]

I pulled the battery last night and promptly dropped one of the bolts. It fell into the ABS tray and slipped between the ABS and the tray....ARRRRRRRGH! This morning abandoned all efforts to retrieve it until I get a good magnet. I can see it but can't get to it. Whatever, I have a replacement and I don't think it can harm anything where it's at. Anyhow, I will perform the TPS again and go for a good long ride as soon as I'm done with my morning coffee.

Hey Gary, got me wondering, pulled the battery, but the date code is 0708, so it was quite new when purchased. Clearly doesn'r rule out a bad batt, but at least my source had a fresh supply at the time.

mine is 06 - I was getting a new battery for my K1100, it's batt died as soon as someone decided to buy, I decided to put the new battery in the LT and the pc680 in the K11 - got to start checking date codes everytime

I bought the Yuasa, AGM batt especially good in a bike like the K100, K1100, do not think they are as bothered by the heat as much as a regular batt, the AGM batt in my K1100 was 7 years old, the air tunnel in the center of the LT keeps things a lot cooler in the center of the bike

 

[Voyager]

Starting this new thread as a place holder to log my fix and collect suggestions. I've researched a lot but the one result that both matched my symptoms exactly and followed up with a: "This worked for me"...did not work for me.

Background event:
I left the radio on over night last weekend and discovered a dead battery heading off to work Mon morning. 15 minutes on the charger had it started and I was off to work. On the way I noticed that the radio would not turn on....I've seen this once before...once home I disconnected the battery, waited a couple minutes, reconnected it, and it was fine. I next reconnected the charger and gave it a proper charge overnight.

Symptoms:
Since then, the bike chooses unpredictable moments to stall when slowing/stopping and pulling in the clutch. It first happened the next day after riding on the highway at quite high rpms (7k+) and exiting. It stalled for the first time at the red light at the end of the exit ramp. In the middle of 3 lanes of traffic I was panic stricken, and was only able to get it started by goosing the throttle. Take-off was erratic, but it ran fine at speed.

It has stalled on nummerous occaisions since, after both high rev riding and normal. It doesn't stall with every stop and I cannot predit when it will. If I'm rolling, popping the clutch will restart it; if I'm stopped I need to goose the throttle.

Tried so far:

1. Seemed to be the clasic TPS and I performed the reset sequence (key on, bike off, WOT twice, key off); didn't help; performed it again; still didn't help.
2. There is no sucking of air when opening the gas tank

All the other search results seem to not apply or were never followed up to confirm a fix, so I start my journey to a fix here.

I have not found the TPS reset to be all that effective on my 07. Eeery time Ihave the battery disconnected I find that it simply takes several rides before the LT gets its idle back to normal. Just have to be patient and keep riding!

 

[smahon]

Re: '05 LT stalls at idle, after battery drain, TPS fix?

Well, third time's a charm I guess, or perhaps just performing the TPS reset correctly for the first time. The first two times I did not unhook the battery first. Third time was after a battery pull. So, 107 miles in the CO twisties, riding somewhat aggressively, and 78 miles back home @ 85mph and no stalls...outdoor temps from 76 to 100 degrees. Stopped halfway and had a nice chat wih a gentleman showing off his K1200-R. Oh-my-god...what a beast of a machine!

 

[jkersh1]

I pulled the battery last night and promptly dropped one of the bolts. It fell into the ABS tray and slipped between the ABS and the tray....ARRRRRRRGH! This morning abandoned all efforts to retrieve it until I get a good magnet. I can see it but can't get to it.....

That has happened to me too. I ended up using my shop vac with an especially thin crevice tool (used for my wife's sewing machines) to retrieve it. I was afraid that with my luck the bolt would eventually end up bouncing out of the tray and into my rear tire.

 

[smahon]

Well, I called success too soon. Yesterday the bike started stalling again just driving around town. Much more stalling today as well, both with and without the clutch in but only with throttle down.

 

[smahon]

Bike still stalling. Tore it all apart again this weekend. Looked for bent/collapsed hoses, leaks, plugged vents, plug/wire issues. Removed the tank and fuel pump, no (obvious) issues there.

Also, just noticed that the tachometer is spiking while at idle (on the occaisions when it is not stalled).

Ya know, this bike was perfect until I started doing "maintenance" on it! Now I know how the shop feels when a customer says: "It didn't do this or that until I brought it in".

 

[wrmoss]

Hey Steve, sorry for your trouble. I'm just spitt-balling here but did all of this begin when your battery completly discharged? If so, then it seems that it must be related to the battery or be electrical in nature. I also wonder how many years a person can get out of a battery? In my mind four years seems definitely on the outer edge of life...

Like I said, I'm just spitt-balling...

 

[smahon]

Hey Steve, sorry for your trouble. I'm just spitt-balling here but did all of this begin when your battery completly discharged? If so, then it seems that it must be related to the battery or be electrical in nature. I also wonder how many years a person can get out of a battery? In my mind four years seems definitely on the outer edge of life...

Like I said, I'm just spitt-balling...

Yes, that is when it all started. The thing is, the battery does not show any (other) symptoms of being bad. It cranks fine, even when the bike has just stalled. I haven't had to charge it since this drain event, even though most of my trips are short. I put a meter on it and did my own sort of load test. Bike at idle, voltage good at 13+, turned on all electronics one at a time (radio, heated seats, grips, high beam, flashers, moto lights (65w ea), brakes, windshield) and watched the voltage go down to 9v. Bike continued to idle fine and with a slight rev-up the voltage went to 13+.

I contacted 3 other members of this forum that had threads about what seemed to be the same issue to see if it ever resolved for them. All three were kind enough to respond to me today with three different solutions that worked for them:

1. Replaced O2 sensor
2. Sea of foam (six cans of Sea Foam)
3. Canisterectomy

I have also read about the same issue caused by a bad plug wire. I guess I will try them all in order of cost. Highest first since that's always what it turns out to be right?

 

[deanwoolsey]

Well here's a test that will cost you zero. Lift the seat, put a digital meter on the battery posts and turn the ignition on without starting the bike. If you fall quickly below 12 volts you have a dead cell. There's so many amps in the Odyssey battery that it will start the bike on five cells. I am concerned that you went to 9 volts at idle with the accessories on. That's too low. Clean your connections up and try it again, but I'm leaning towards a toasted battery. The LT alternator is 720 watts which is 60 amps. Everything on should not put you at 9 volts in my opinion unless there is an issue with the electrical system.

 

[jzeiler]

+1 on the 9 volts being the issue. Battery is bad if it got that low. Try it again with the bike off and watch the voltage go down as you add load. You should be able to have every thing on and not drop below 12.1 with a good battery and no engine running. It won't be there long but 5 minutes it should hold and drop no lower than 11.8. You can pull the battery and have a local auto parts store put a load test on it. But That is where I think the issue lies.

 

[johnbaker15]

I re-read you post and noticed it seems to stall at STOPS which means that you are most likely using the brakes (or dragging you feet) and have the Rmp's fairly low.

This combination will stress the battery's capabilities, and since it appears to drop to 9 volts at other times you have no chance that bike will stay running.

I am with the gathering crowd...get a new battery. :wave

 

[wrmoss]

:corn: The suspense is killing me...