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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK I am going to try this. I have alot of tupperware off already from a valve adjust. Thanks to everyone for your help! But as always I need help again. it looks like the ABS "system" I have to bleed is under the seat and to the left of the battery. It looks difficult to get to. I don't think I can remove battery because I am going to need to activate the abs to bleed. There are a lot of wires above what I believe to be the ABS unit. I hope I am in the right place. I bought a DVD on flushing the brake system on the R1200GS with integral servo brake system which I believe is the same as the LT. Does anyone know if that is correct? Couldn't find one for K1200LT with servo. Would the order of the procedures be the same? I have searched and can't find a document with pics on how to do this. Anyone know where one is?
Also I need to flush clutch fluid. Where is the clutch bleed valve located on an 05 LT?
Thanks all
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Marc,

The procedures are basically the same, as the unit is used on several bikes. The control circuits (the ports you flush ON the ABS unit) are not a critical as the wheel circuits. The manual states to flush 1 then 2 then 3 then 1 again. But I have found very little contaminated fluid from the repeated flushes. Pick the one easy to get to bleed nipple and flush that one. Remember for this flush you don't need the key on. In fact two of the nipples are easier to get to if you remove the connector from the ABS unit.

The wheel circuit do require the key on and some way to ensure you don't empty the black opaque reservoirs that are on the ABS unit.

The one on the left is front the other one is of course the rear sequence.

Almost forgot - bleed port for the clutch is on the right side just about where your shin hits. Remove the chrome trim on the tip over bar and you will find it cable tied to the sub frame with a foam tube covering the bleed port. You just remove the grub screw and push back the check ball and the fluid will just run out. You can do a gravity flush if you have the time.
 

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what is the correct interval to use between maintenance intervals? I have been hesitant to make this a DIY but seems that it is possible given correct instructions and special funnel tool. Some intructions are for non servo units which do not have same procedures as our 06 models. More detail would be very appreciated.

Thank you,

Mugz
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the attached pics but I am kinda slow, so in one pic, number 1 bleed valve is different than on pic 2. Why is that shown that way?
 

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2005 K1200LT
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mpillis said:
Thanks for the attached pics but I am kinda slow, so in one pic, number 1 bleed valve is different than on pic 2. Why is that shown that way?
If you look you will see two of them are "near" the front reservoir and one is "near" the rear reservoir. The odd one is the integral circuit (front to rear). Just vice a versa on the rear. They are labled 1) front metering port , 2)front integral circuit and 3) front control circuit.
 

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I did this flush thing last winter on my 2005LT. To flush the wheel circuits, I jury rigged a standpipe for each of the wheel cylinder "reservoirs" (you can hardly call them reservoirs) on the control unit. The standpipes replaced the two black plastic cap/reservoirs having a coupling hose & vent etc that are not shown in the above two pictures. The pictures show what the brake control unit looks like before the two standpipes were temporarily installed.

I made the standpipes from drilling a hole in two rubber stoppers (actually the only ones I could find at a neighborhood junk store were cork which could contaminate things but I got by with it though rubber would be far better) The brake fluid columns were kept at least few inches above the control unit. It is surprising how quickly they will drain when the servo motor is engaged. Next time I'm going to make some metal standpipe adapters that will seal better (using o-rings) on the control unit ports.

Obviously you don't want any air to be ingested. I screwed up & didn't keep the standpipes full enough at first, (they really can empty fast!) but was I was able to ultimately vent the air out at the caliper & ended up with a firm brake.

I used wood blocks and wedges to compress the caliper pistons into the caliper assemblies as far as possible to get better flushing.
 

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If you are careful to not "over pump", you can flush / add / repeat until you have clean fluid at the bleeders.

If you have a second set of hands you can have them maintain a level as you work the individual circuits.
 

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cfell said:
Mugz...
Flush yearly.
Yearly? Now that is yet another maintenance interval. Have not heard of that. I thought BMW was advising to stretch it out to every 4 years.

Mugz
 

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Mugszy said:
Yearly? Now that is yet another maintenance interval. Have not heard of that. I thought BMW was advising to stretch it out to every 4 years.

Mugz
I believe the CONTROL circuits went to four years but the Wheel circuit stayed at annual. I can support that with what I have gotten out of my control circuits on the last two flushes (at 2 year intervals). I would stick with annual on the wheel as it is always dark fluid coming out of those.
 

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As a newbie with the LT, I can say that I am thoroughly confused. :confused:

I haven't turned a wrench in years, however having a mechanical background (US Army - 63W - Wheel Vehicle Repair), I thought that I'd be able to something like this.

Does anybody have any procedural instructions, or should I just get a Clymer Manual?
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Ray,



I don't think the Clymer covers it ( I don't have the book), but it is covered well in the BMW CD. Mark Neblett wrote up some good procedures and they can be found by searching the "BMWLT.net Archive Forums" . Use the username of "mneblett" and the words "brake flush" and it should point you to the article.

I would pull it up but my work computer won't allow me access to these archives (blog filter I think).
 

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jzeiler said:
I believe the CONTROL circuits went to four years but the Wheel circuit stayed at annual. I can support that with what I have gotten out of my control circuits on the last two flushes (at 2 year intervals). I would stick with annual on the wheel as it is always dark fluid coming out of those.
John is correct - I personally saw the BMW bulletin that states 4 years for control and annual for wheels (annual for wheel circuits even if the brake lines are metal/teflon)
 
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