[rayfwms]

Had the fuel tank off for first time putting on my new Wilbers and noticed a little pool of gasoline in the fuel pump top……turned the key on and saw a leak----replaced the elbow thinking that was the problem(and it was one of the problems as it had a crack) but still saw leak and now see there is a hairline fracture in the female section that is actually part of the top of the assembly!!! OUCH! according to my fiche---it is sold as a 'UNIT" for only $474!!
somebody tell me this ain't so!! Please…………..
are there others who have run into such a mess…..
thanks
Ray
Ashland, VA

 

[kellenbenz]

Evidently this is a common problem. Here is a link from the sport touring forum with a couple of fixes mentioned.

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=731161#Post731161

You may also be interested in adding this clamp when repairing the leak:

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/rk12fuelpmpclmp.html

Ron

 

[beech]

Sorry, you need to replace the whole unit. Repairs don't do it. When you install your quick connect into the unit do not over tighten it. The new units have a metal ring around the female flange that is cracked on yours. Do not accept old stock that does not have this ring when you purchase a unit. If you have the dealer install it there is a two year warranty. Would be cheaper to take the tank there as opposed to the complete bike. If you go that way make sure they install the quick connect into the female flange. Do some research on the proper thread sealant to use. Because both pieces are plastic and slick (and the thread sealant) it is easy to over insert the quick connect.

 

[JonA]

Evidently this is a common problem. Here is a link from the sport touring forum with a couple of fixes mentioned.

There's some good pics on that thread too. I didn't have the clamp which looks like a solid fix - maybe use it with some epoxy too since you wouldn't be wanting to remove it. Anyway I cut a thin slice from a length of copper pipe that I found which was slightly larger diameter than the fitting, then used some warmed epoxy (good quality stuff) so it was quite runny and filled the gap with it right up to the top and into any cracks. Having something metal around the outside stops the epoxy breaking apart. Clean and de-grease the area well first and then leave it a couple of days to really harden, then like the man says don't overtighten the male fitting. Use a little PTFE tape or compound.

About 5k miles since I did it and touch wood it's holding up ok. Sorry the pic isn't that great.

 

[beech]

Nice careful work. Sure worth a try at the 500$ alternative price. Beemerboneyard sells a nice little clamp for preventative work but with the right epoxy and thread sealant the clamp will add the physical strength needed.

 

[hopz]

After a very close inspection with the magnifier glass...I had a hairline crack on mine too.

My pal, 10Over, is a machinist and he made the prototype clamps that closed mine up tightly. His clam is now selling through beemerboneyard in the neighborhood of $30 or so... maybe a touch more.

The clamp did the job for me with no epoxy. I'm happy with it...