It is a float inside a metal tube. Have you noticed any "whoosh" when you remove the filler cap? A clogged charcoal canister can cause the tank to collapse and dent the sending tube.
'00 K12LT fuel gauge
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Robert also try a search for "bent filler" or something like that and you will find threads that talk about the filler being bent and how to fix it. You wil need to take the tupperware off and get the gage out of the tank to repair. Folks have done the repair if bent or you can buy a new one.Scouter-50 said:
Good luck post if you need more direction.
Robert,
I experienced the same issue on my last trip. The gauge would slowly drop to the white area, then after a few miles slowly creep back to a more sensible reading. I knew from my trip odo that there was still plenty of fuel so I just kept rolling. It repeated this behavior from time to time for the rest of the trip home. The problem on my bike turned out to be a bit of corrosion in the fuel gauge connector at the tank. This "system" is heavily damped in order to prevent the gauge needle from jumping around with the float movement (which moves very freely). Consequently, the needle will move very slowly as the resistance in the circuit changes. The sender is at its highest resistance when the tank is empty and conversely is at its lowest resistance when the tank is full. The corrosion adds resistance to the circuit, plus it can create an intermittent connection. I believe what I saw (and you are seeing) is the gauge slowly responding the this intermittent connection while riding plus some small additional resistance which prevents the gauge from going full scale when the tank was full. The fix was simple: clean the connector contacts, add a few blobs of di-electric grease, replace all the tupperware then get back to riding
Hope this helps,
Les Willey
00 K1200LT
I experienced the same issue on my last trip. The gauge would slowly drop to the white area, then after a few miles slowly creep back to a more sensible reading. I knew from my trip odo that there was still plenty of fuel so I just kept rolling. It repeated this behavior from time to time for the rest of the trip home. The problem on my bike turned out to be a bit of corrosion in the fuel gauge connector at the tank. This "system" is heavily damped in order to prevent the gauge needle from jumping around with the float movement (which moves very freely). Consequently, the needle will move very slowly as the resistance in the circuit changes. The sender is at its highest resistance when the tank is empty and conversely is at its lowest resistance when the tank is full. The corrosion adds resistance to the circuit, plus it can create an intermittent connection. I believe what I saw (and you are seeing) is the gauge slowly responding the this intermittent connection while riding plus some small additional resistance which prevents the gauge from going full scale when the tank was full. The fix was simple: clean the connector contacts, add a few blobs of di-electric grease, replace all the tupperware then get back to riding
Hope this helps,
Les Willey
00 K1200LT
Thanks, Les. I guess I will be asking for tupperware help at the tech day Saturday. Your explanation makes good sense to me. I guess the float tube could be dented also, will let you know. RobertLGW said:Robert,
I experienced the same issue on my last trip. The gauge would slowly drop to the white area, then after a few miles slowly creep back to a more sensible reading. I knew from my trip odo that there was still plenty of fuel so I just kept rolling. It repeated this behavior from time to time for the rest of the trip home. The problem on my bike turned out to be a bit of corrosion in the fuel gauge connector at the tank. This "system" is heavily damped in order to prevent the gauge needle from jumping around with the float movement (which moves very freely). Consequently, the needle will move very slowly as the resistance in the circuit changes. The sender is at its highest resistance when the tank is empty and conversely is at its lowest resistance when the tank is full. The corrosion adds resistance to the circuit, plus it can create an intermittent connection. I believe what I saw (and you are seeing) is the gauge slowly responding the this intermittent connection while riding plus some small additional resistance which prevents the gauge from going full scale when the tank was full. The fix was simple: clean the connector contacts, add a few blobs of di-electric grease, replace all the tupperware then get back to riding
Hope this helps,
Les Willey
00 K1200LT
getting the side panels off are an easy matter that takes all of 5-8 minutes per panel. Remove the mirror (it just pops off) take out the three screws holding the air deflector and remove it. Pull the screw holding the panel. remove the turn signal and take out the two screws underneath. Take the tip over bar covers off and remove the screws under it holding the side panel. open the oddments box and take out the screws holding the cover that goes around the release button. Lift the seat to make room. Take out the screws holding the side panel. remove the screw that is under the seat where the panels meet. Take out any remaining screw I forgot to mention and pull the lock pin out of the rubber grommet at the back of the panel. now lift off the panel. There is hook tab that goes into a slot on the radio bat wing, try not to break it off getting too overzealous.
If someone elses two hands can do it, yours will too. Dont let that big girl intimidate you! You have to show her who's boss or she will take advantage of you (financially)
I think the canisterectomy and fuel tube may have been the first thing I fixed on my 2000.
If someone elses two hands can do it, yours will too. Dont let that big girl intimidate you! You have to show her who's boss or she will take advantage of you (financially)
I think the canisterectomy and fuel tube may have been the first thing I fixed on my 2000.
14wntr said:getting the side panels off are an easy matter that takes all of 5-8 minutes per panel. Remove the mirror (it just pops off) take out the three screws holding the air deflector and remove it. Pull the screw holding the panel. remove the turn signal and take out the two screws underneath. Take the tip over bar covers off and remove the screws under it holding the side panel. open the oddments box and take out the screws holding the cover that goes around the release button. Lift the seat to make room. Take out the screws holding the side panel. remove the screw that is under the seat where the panels meet. Take out any remaining screw I forgot to mention and pull the lock pin out of the rubber grommet at the back of the panel. now lift off the panel. There is hook tab that goes into a slot on the radio bat wing, try not to break it off getting too overzealous.
If someone elses two hands can do it, yours will too. Dont let that big girl intimidate you! You have to show her who's boss or she will take advantage of you (financially)
I think the canisterectomy and fuel tube may have been the first thing I fixed on my 2000.
Thanks, I will print this and take it with me to the tech day.
Robert
Sounds easy enough, and I've seen some photos on this site that show it after its removal. I take it the unit is only visible after removing the right side fairing?14wntr said:
I have Sears' complete socket set so I'm sure I've got the necessary items on hand to fix the dent(s).
Maybe there is a specific size of plastic pipe that could be used to straighten the the tube after it's removed. I'll look, once I'm into it.Thanks.
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