Hitch rack for Dauntless - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 7 Old Apr 17th, 2006, 1:44 pm Thread Starter
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Hitch rack for Dauntless

Hi ya all,

a while ago I was asking for comments on optimizing the freight cost of a ready made trailer from U.S. I have come to the conclusion that I will not buy any trailer at least for this season, since after all I'm not at all sure how much use I would have of one.

Many of you encouraged me to build my own trailer and I commented that I will start with the lower luggage rack that fastens to the Dauntless hitch receiver.

Enclosed are my plans. I hope you can get the idea from the pics. (The donut presents the rear wheel etc..) I know this is no "Porsche design" but I thought funcionality goes first.
The size of the platform is 300 mm x 520 mm. The frame will be stainless steel as the perforated cover plate and the rails as well. I have been concerned of the warnings of some members that this type of racks have suffered from cracking due to overloading. I have added a support point under the trunk. I will use 5 mm plastic coated steel cable to support the rack from the top.
The rack will have side marker lights and a led brake light.

On the front side I have designed a solid heat shield as my Remus pipe blows directly backwards and not downwards as the stock BMW muffler does.

Whaddya think?
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Ari "the Farkle-Freak-Finn" Ignatius

Hyvinkää, Finland
2004 ('05) LT, Dark Graphite, "Sunset Cruiser II"

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post #2 of 7 Old Apr 17th, 2006, 3:50 pm
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Well .... When pulling a trailer we try to limit tounge weight to 35#'s max.
Any more weight that far back handling suffers greatly.

If putting sleeping bag or cloths you are going to be fine ... carry items with weight like you would in a trailer ... IMHO you will have issues that upset handling, be bottoming out rear suspension more & possable damage to sub frame that is not designed for a hitch to begin with.

As one with a dauntless hitch & trailer ... Do the trailer, you will be surprized just how easy they pull & if done with a low CG, you really have no clue it's back there.

Just my opionon.
Scott

"00" Canyon Red LTI ~ Well Farklized ~ Bug Splattered
Our "semi" quiet riot
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post #3 of 7 Old Apr 17th, 2006, 7:38 pm
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I was thinking of doing something like this, but I don't have the dauntless. Still, I was thinking that it would relieve some torsion on that dauntless connection point by simply running some angle iron from the subframe under the bags to support the rack. The support there would be wider. I took a pic of a piece of wood to show the location about which I speak (see below).
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post #4 of 7 Old Apr 17th, 2006, 9:15 pm
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Ditch the cable

The cable idea is not that great. a rod with hime joints at the ends would be better.
The cable only holds the weight in a straight line gravity pull, every bump that you cross that lifts the weight off the cable, shock loads the entire platform and the subframe when it returns.
I think you would be better to go with a couple triangle gusset plates on each side of the shelf.
You shouldn't really carry that much poundage back there anyhow, I would keep it under 75lbs.
The rest looks like it should work fine.
Rock
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post #5 of 7 Old Apr 18th, 2006, 4:04 am Thread Starter
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Thumbs up

Thanks to all for your comments.

First of all I want to point out that I am not going to substitute a trailer with this luggage rack. I have just realized that my two-up riding is at such an early stage that a trailer with all the luggage space that such unit offers would just be an overkill for me. So far I have not even been able to persuade my wife to sleep in a tent...

I intend to load either a flight bag or a cooler on the rack. I have calculated that if the weight of the rack would be around 7 kg the weight of the load would be about 15 kg max. So that adds up to 20 - 30 kg (45 - 70 lbs).
I also intend to install the rack as close to the bike as possible in order to minimize the leverage.

Regarding the cables. My simple picture did not show what my intention is. I'm going to have quick release chape or clasp (or whatever it's called in English) at the top and also a rigging screw in between. With the help of the rigging screw I will pull the cables so tight that there will be no play in the Dauntless receiver. (Not that there would be much in any case...). This way the cables are constantly pulling upwards and I doubt if would find a bump big enough to be able to bounce the rack upwards and thus giving slack to the cables.

In any case this was a good remark from UncleRock and made me pay even more attention to this issue.

I also trust that the support cables would do the same (or more) as adding extra supports under the saddlebags. In fact, that is where the Dauntless is already supported from so adding more steel in that direction might not be the solution whereas a top support should help more. Of course at the end all the stress is directed to the bike subframe so common sense should be used when loading the rack in any case.

I'll keep you posted on the final product, it should be done in 4 weeks...

Regards

Ari "the Farkle-Freak-Finn" Ignatius

Hyvinkää, Finland
2004 ('05) LT, Dark Graphite, "Sunset Cruiser II"

Bike trip from Finland to USA:

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post #6 of 7 Old Apr 18th, 2006, 10:23 am
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The only thing I can think of Ari is that you'll need a REALLY tough and seam sealed waterproof cover to keep things dry and clean...

I would think a plastic waterproof box with an O ring seal would be the way to go. Perhaps design the rack around that... would double as a cooler.

Like: http://www.hardigg.org/StormCase/sellsheets/2750.pdf
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post #7 of 7 Old Apr 18th, 2006, 1:20 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonKMiller
The only thing I can think of Ari is that you'll need a REALLY tough and seam sealed waterproof cover to keep things dry and clean...

I would think a plastic waterproof box with an O ring seal would be the way to go. Perhaps design the rack around that... would double as a cooler.

Like: http://www.hardigg.org/StormCase/sellsheets/2750.pdf
You are correct Ron,

in fact I was today visiting a professional sewer and she will make me two different side of covers. One for the cooler and one for the flight bag. I bought some heavy duty black vinyl that is used for covering snowmobile seats and the seamstress will make them as hoods for the bags.

I was also considering the heavy duty waterproof boxes you referred to but I thought that in any case the box will be filthy from outside so how to take it into the hotelroom without hosing it down first? So I figured that I prefer leaving the dirty vinyl cover outside and take the (hopefully) clean bag inside...
Let's see if my theory works...

Thanks for your comment in any case!

Regards

Ari "the Farkle-Freak-Finn" Ignatius

Hyvinkää, Finland
2004 ('05) LT, Dark Graphite, "Sunset Cruiser II"

Bike trip from Finland to USA:

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