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post #1 of 7 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 7:17 am Thread Starter
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trailer question

Good morning all,
I am planning on buying a utility trailer for hauling some items around the house and was wondering if my 2005 LT will go up the 4' ramp without scraping the bottom?

The trailer will be 6' 6" wide and 12' long with a ramp of 4'

Thanks
Glen
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post #2 of 7 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 7:25 am
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Re: trailer question

With a 4 foot ramp it will drag some but not bad. Get a 2X12 about 6 feet long. Cut 1 foot off & then screw that 1 foot piece to the end (on top) of the 5 ft one. Put the doubled up part under the trailer ramp & ride the bike up onto the wood, then onto the trailer. The wood will make the ramp angle less.

Stevie Shreeve
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post #3 of 7 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 7:27 am
cwo
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Re: trailer question

I have an Atlas enclosed trailer (same size as you described) and have no problems with clearance. If you are looking at enclosed trailers, pay special attention to headroom clearance. Some of the less expensive enclosed trailers have limited headroom.....which means you can't drive it in.

Chris Ogle

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post #4 of 7 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 10:00 pm
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Re: trailer question

Glen, I have a cheapie utility trailer with the same dimensions you describe. My LT does not clear the transition between the ramp and the floor of the trailer without using a "trick" or two. Assuming our trailer beds are the same distance off the ground:

One choice is to back the ramp up to an incline, making the ramp become closer to parallel with the trailer bed.

Another idea (the one I now use consistently) is to crank the trailer's front wheel jack thing (not sure what it's called) down; this pushes the front of the trailer up and the back of the trailer down, again lessening the ramp angle. If you don't have one of these on your trailer, then you can use any kind of jack on the trailer tongue to accomplish the same thing. Keep the trailer connected to the tow vehicle while doing this, of course. Hope this helps.

Howard Schisler
2015 BMW K1600GTL
2009 BMW K1200LT - 60k miles
2012 BMW F650GS (sold)
2005 BMW K1200LT - "Gray Ghost", traded at 120k miles
2005 Honda Shadow 650 (sold)
AMA, IBA, BMW MOA. CCRs: Braselton 2006, Osage Beach 2007, Duluth 2012


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post #5 of 7 Old Sep 9th, 2013, 10:48 am Thread Starter
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Re: trailer question

Thanks for all the info,

Howard, I saw a utility /motorcycle trailer that has a 4" drop axel and 2 built in wheel chocks down near springfield I might go look at, it,s a bit more pricey but I would be able to take the LT and the KLR with me! Best of both worlds.

Wanna go West next year and Carol just cant do the 500+ days anymore.

Let me know the next time you get home under better circumstances and maybe we can meet up for some lunch with you , Lisa, Carol and I.

Glen
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post #6 of 7 Old Sep 9th, 2013, 6:13 pm
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Re: trailer question

Will do, Glen. Thanks - and good luck.

Howard Schisler
2015 BMW K1600GTL
2009 BMW K1200LT - 60k miles
2012 BMW F650GS (sold)
2005 BMW K1200LT - "Gray Ghost", traded at 120k miles
2005 Honda Shadow 650 (sold)
AMA, IBA, BMW MOA. CCRs: Braselton 2006, Osage Beach 2007, Duluth 2012


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post #7 of 7 Old Mar 26th, 2016, 6:44 am
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Re: trailer question

I have a 4x8 utility trailer with the little wheels -- 9-inch? I hold a provisional patent on a hinge I designed that lets me stow two halves of a full-width six-foot-long ramp along the sides, pivoting them into place. The six-foot ramp allows me to ride my LT onto the trailer while keeping both feet (30" inseam) in contact with ground or ramp.

Bifrucated message here: 6-foot ramp behind a low-deck trailer lets you safely ease the LT up under its own power; and does the hinge/ramp arrangement sound interesting to anyone? It can be produced as a bolt-on or a weld-on to the trailer frame in a way that does not infringe on the flat 4x8 bed of the trailer (still good for sheetrock, plywood, etc.)
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