Don't Want to burn it up-Wiring Question - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 3 Old Oct 12th, 2006, 2:41 pm Thread Starter
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Don't Want to burn it up-Wiring Question

I have a '05 LTC. I put a Dauntless Hitch on it and wired it for a five pin connection. It is wired through the tail lights. I did not use a relay.

The little trailer I pull behind it, is outfitted with LED running and tail lights. Have run 15K miles no problem.

I now have a Time Out Camping Trailer. And it needs to be wired to match the bike. However, the trailer tail light bulbs, two turn, and two running /brake are incandescent 1156, and 1157 bulbs.

I heard through the grape vine, not to use incandescent bulbs. It was explained it was best to change them to LED, as to not screw up the computers voltage reading or worse yet, overheat the wiring harness with too big of load.

Is this fact or fiction? I have already ordered LED bulbs to replace incandescent. I do like their brightness and durability. Standard 1156 and 1157's will blow if two bouncy or rough roads.

Thoughts?

Look forward to your replies.

Miles
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post #2 of 3 Old Oct 12th, 2006, 3:09 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Great_Kubuki
I have a '05 LTC. I put a Dauntless Hitch on it and wired it for a five pin connection. It is wired through the tail lights. I did not use a relay.

The little trailer I pull behind it, is outfitted with LED running and tail lights. Have run 15K miles no problem.

I now have a Time Out Camping Trailer. And it needs to be wired to match the bike. However, the trailer tail light bulbs, two turn, and two running /brake are incandescent 1156, and 1157 bulbs.

I heard through the grape vine, not to use incandescent bulbs. It was explained it was best to change them to LED, as to not screw up the computers voltage reading or worse yet, overheat the wiring harness with too big of load.

Is this fact or fiction? I have already ordered LED bulbs to replace incandescent. I do like their brightness and durability. Standard 1156 and 1157's will blow if two bouncy or rough roads.

Thoughts?

Look forward to your replies.

Miles

when I was considering a trailer on my lt I was told by everyone including the dealers to run a relay setup for the trailer andbrake light for the reasons you mention above

that is all I can do for help as I never actually installed the trailer hitch or the wireing

Tom

'07 GS Adv (mine), '06 GS <(My brides)
(the only bmw's in the stable)
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post #3 of 3 Old Oct 12th, 2006, 3:39 pm
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Location: Fairfax, VA, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Great_Kubuki
I have a '05 LTC. I put a Dauntless Hitch on it and wired it for a five pin connection. It is wired through the tail lights. I did not use a relay.

The little trailer I pull behind it, is outfitted with LED running and tail lights. Have run 15K miles no problem.

I now have a Time Out Camping Trailer. And it needs to be wired to match the bike. However, the trailer tail light bulbs, two turn, and two running /brake are incandescent 1156, and 1157 bulbs.

I heard through the grape vine, not to use incandescent bulbs. It was explained it was best to change them to LED, as to not screw up the computers voltage reading or worse yet, overheat the wiring harness with too big of load.

Is this fact or fiction? I have already ordered LED bulbs to replace incandescent. I do like their brightness and durability. Standard 1156 and 1157's will blow if two bouncy or rough roads.

Thoughts?

Look forward to your replies.

Miles
A couple thoughts:

First, I'm somewhat surprised that you have been running straight off the brake light without tripping an ABS warning light -- I presume its the fact that the trailer lights are LEDs. I would give you at least even odds that the incandescent bulbs' resistance is different enough to trigger an ABS fault -- one reason for a relay.

Second, as to the current draw, you might be able to get away without a relay, but consider this: BMW has historically properly sized the electrical harness for the expected load -- but little more. As a result, the BMW wiring is a bit "light" -- proper per industry standards, but not sized with excess loads in mind. So, can you get away with no relay? Maybe, at least in the short term, but no way to guarantee it.

My $0.02: It's not worth the nagging, "always wondering" thoughts you'll always have in the back of your mind when you're pulling the trailer -- use an isolator/relays and *know* that you have a safe rig.

HTH,

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA
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