running wires for trailer - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 11 Old Aug 12th, 2006, 7:31 am Thread Starter
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running wires for trailer

I have two questions. This is for connecting wires to the bike.

1. Do you run the trailer wires into the rubber gromet under the tailights and they come out magicaly in the right place or is there another method for getting wires below bike for trailer plug? I am not against drilling a hole to run wires through but would like to do it correctly.

2. What is the method for connecting the plug to the wires? I have backed out the screw and stuck wire in hole in post tightened screw and cut the wire with screw. This is for round chrome weather tight plug that came with dauntless hitch.

NOGILLS2


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2003 K1200LTE "BEERBURNER" RIP 07/21/09
2006 Aluma Trailer "AFTERBURNER" SOLD
2007 ST1300ABS "Quicksilver"




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post #2 of 11 Old Aug 12th, 2006, 7:54 am
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I can't remember the answer to question #1 but I do remember that it was difficult to get it all in place and squeeze the wires through.

As for #2...I can help. Strip the wire just enough to go through the brass piece. The trick is to tin the end of the wire with solder before placing it in the brass piece, then tighten the screw. The you have to bend the wire and be sure that nothing touches that shouldn't.

Hope that helps you.

Ron


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post #3 of 11 Old Aug 12th, 2006, 8:01 am Thread Starter
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Thanks Ron, Yes it does help. Ignorance can be helped!

NOGILLS2


Booze Brother# 69
2003 K1200LTE "BEERBURNER" RIP 07/21/09
2006 Aluma Trailer "AFTERBURNER" SOLD
2007 ST1300ABS "Quicksilver"




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post #4 of 11 Old Aug 12th, 2006, 8:22 am
 
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Are you tapping directly to the bike's wires or using an isolator. My experience is that the trailer lights work much better & brighter when an isolator is used & they don't dim the bike's lights.
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post #5 of 11 Old Aug 12th, 2006, 8:40 am Thread Starter
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Big E i am using the harness that came with the dauntless hitch with a relay and power source from battery directly. also my trailer has led lights from the factory so draw wont be very much anyway.

NOGILLS2


Booze Brother# 69
2003 K1200LTE "BEERBURNER" RIP 07/21/09
2006 Aluma Trailer "AFTERBURNER" SOLD
2007 ST1300ABS "Quicksilver"




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post #6 of 11 Old Aug 12th, 2006, 12:06 pm
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When I hooked up my Dauntless wiring I found that the wire kept breaking at the plug over time because of the right anglre bends. I finally took the screws completly out of the plug and soldered the wires directly into the plug and have not had a problem since.
The wires can feed thru the grommet, but it is really a tight fit. I would drill a new hole and silicone seal it when finished.

Jim Davidson
2007 R1200RT
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post #7 of 11 Old Aug 12th, 2006, 12:15 pm
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There's a couple of ways to do this, What I did is mount a four isolator relay (Dauntless) on top of the right side bag under the passenger seat,
from there, follow the wiring harness back where it goes through a rubber grommet and comes out behind the taillight,
you can stick the wires through there and get your source from the back of the taillight using double spade connectors or solder if you prefer.
The wires from the other side of the Iso relay are zip tied to the inside and bottom saddle bag frame.
On the round plug I had the same problems you did until I threw the screws away and soldered the wires into the little holes.
I would highly recommend a 4 isolator relay, it's cheap insurance because if you should develop a short somewhere in either the trailer or the hitch it could also fry the LT's electronics.
read ABS or brain
With that said, I've got a used Bushtec isolator relay you can have for the price of the postage.


Hans
St. Petersburg FL

2002 K1200LTE
"Silver Buffalo" Totaled 5/06
2005 LT
"Esperanza"
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post #8 of 11 Old Aug 12th, 2006, 8:05 pm Thread Starter
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Completed the wiring install. As usual the first time to do it takes extra time. It took half a day to get it done after several trial and error moves. For those of you looking to do this in the future here are the steps.

1. Remove the license plate holder.Remove the tail light assembly, install wires as per dauntless instruction.

2. The Rubber grommet spoken about is easily removed, I cut a small slit in the rubber slid the wiring through the rubber. I took a steel fishing leader and inserted into the hole, it comes out in the rear wheel well. I then tied the wires to the leader and snaked through to the wheel well.

3. I found it easier to remove top box and plastic panel under the top box and pillion seat. I did this to run the power wire to the battery. Which i ran along the right frame rail under the passenger seat.

4. I found it easier to soldier wire to the pins instead of placing wires into holes and screwing them into place.

5. After testing lights I found I needed to change a couple of them to get proper response. I have everything working except left turn signal. which I suspect is a connection problem and will continue to get ir working.

NOGILLS2


Booze Brother# 69
2003 K1200LTE "BEERBURNER" RIP 07/21/09
2006 Aluma Trailer "AFTERBURNER" SOLD
2007 ST1300ABS "Quicksilver"




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post #9 of 11 Old Mar 4th, 2012, 8:33 am
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Re: running wires for trailer

<Yes, I know this thread is more than 5 years old. >

Just chiming in here to say this is one of the threads I researched when I bought a Dauntless hitch recently. It was helpful when I did some planning for the hitch install, and helpful yet again just today when I was trying to determine how to resolve the wiring problem described above - when you insert the stripped wire end into the bottom of the "pin"-thing, then tighten the screw, bend the wire to point to the rear of the plug... and the wire breaks. We had that happen on 3 of the 5 wires yesterday during our install. We tried soldering the wires in place but I have a very cheap soldering iron (pencil-type) and it isn't heating properly, etc.; long story short, we ended up removing the soldered ends and using the provided screws very carefully. It's in place and all wrapped up for now, but I'm betting the wires will break down the road and I anticipate we'll eventually have to go back in and solder them as described above - using a better soldering iron and an improved technique.

Thanks again to the collective wisdom - and the willingness to share info/skills/experience - on this site.

Howard Schisler
2015 BMW K1600GTL
2009 BMW K1200LT - 60k miles
2012 BMW F650GS (sold)
2005 BMW K1200LT - "Gray Ghost", traded at 120k miles
2005 Honda Shadow 650 (sold)
AMA, IBA, BMW MOA. CCRs: Braselton 2006, Osage Beach 2007, Duluth 2012


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post #10 of 11 Old Mar 4th, 2012, 9:42 am
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Re: running wires for trailer

Howard, even the cheapest soldering irons can usually "be brought back to life"

most of them have a screw that holds the soldering tip in, back it of and pull the pin out, now clean it (I use a wire wheel) and replace,
always use flux and a very thin solder, once the solder melts on the tip hold it and the iron to the wire and "feed" the solder in,
it will "suck" into the socket, then immediately remove the iron.


Hans
St. Petersburg FL

2002 K1200LTE
"Silver Buffalo" Totaled 5/06
2005 LT
"Esperanza"
BushtecGenesisTrailer
"Our preferred long distance carrier"



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post #11 of 11 Old Mar 4th, 2012, 8:22 pm
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Re: running wires for trailer

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverBuffalo
Howard, even the cheapest soldering irons can usually "be brought back to life"

most of them have a screw that holds the soldering tip in, back it of and pull the pin out, now clean it (I use a wire wheel) and replace,
always use flux and a very thin solder, once the solder melts on the tip hold it and the iron to the wire and "feed" the solder in,
it will "suck" into the socket, then immediately remove the iron.
Excellent info as always, Hans. Thanks.

I didn't mention previously: it's a brand new soldering iron, bought yesterday and used for the first time on this project. All indications are it's poorly-made... I think I paid $8 for it at an auto parts store, and I got what I paid for. That said, the bigger issue was probably our technique, plus we didn't use flux. I now have some of that and we'll try it again IF the trailer lights fail to work when I take delivery of it later this month.

Thanks.

Howard Schisler
2015 BMW K1600GTL
2009 BMW K1200LT - 60k miles
2012 BMW F650GS (sold)
2005 BMW K1200LT - "Gray Ghost", traded at 120k miles
2005 Honda Shadow 650 (sold)
AMA, IBA, BMW MOA. CCRs: Braselton 2006, Osage Beach 2007, Duluth 2012


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