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post #1 of 43 Old Mar 28th, 2012, 8:20 am Thread Starter
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RT Valve Adjustment

Is there a list of tools I need and some valve adjusment for dummies instructions listed somewhere. Any tips and suggestions for a successful adjustment would be helpful. I have a 2009 R1200RT

Thanks

Tom
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post #2 of 43 Old Mar 28th, 2012, 9:03 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

I cannot recall the exact tool kit pieces but you might enjoy seeng this video... even if its in a language I do not understand...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iVplES7DROk

But here is a good write-up:
http://www.r1150r.net/pics/techtips/...tprocedure.doc

There is no difference between an 1150 and a 1200- at least not any that matters.

Enjoy

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post #3 of 43 Old Mar 28th, 2012, 9:05 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasterman
Is there a list of tools I need and some valve adjusment for dummies instructions listed somewhere. Any tips and suggestions for a successful adjustment would be helpful. I have a 2009 R1200RT

Thanks

Tom
I bought the Jim Baden DVDs. Gave me all the info i needed for my 2004 R1150RT. Piece of cake, now. As is the throttle body sync.

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post #4 of 43 Old Mar 28th, 2012, 11:55 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Jim Bade DVD's are a very useful resource for beginners like me.

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/

Dana

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post #5 of 43 Old Mar 28th, 2012, 1:23 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Aside from normal workbench stuff, Torx drivers (the 2010 and up need a T45 for the valve cover bolts) and feeler gauges. I'm not sure how the valves are adjusted, but would guess Torx, and maybe Hex drivers and the aforementioned normal workbench stuff should do it.

Greg
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post #6 of 43 Old Mar 28th, 2012, 2:30 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasterman
Is there a list of tools I need and some valve adjusment for dummies instructions listed somewhere. Any tips and suggestions for a successful adjustment would be helpful. I have a 2009 R1200RT

Thanks

Tom
I have a set of the RT feeler gauges for your bike. You can have them if you want.
Let me know.
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post #7 of 43 Old Mar 28th, 2012, 4:09 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by GRB60
Aside from normal workbench stuff, Torx drivers (the 2010 and up need a T45 for the valve cover bolts) and feeler gauges. I'm not sure how the valves are adjusted, but would guess Torx, and maybe Hex drivers and the aforementioned normal workbench stuff should do it.
Tom - the valve stems are a small hex wrench (somehow 3 mm sticks in my mind, but don't quote me - any decent assortment should have one) and the jam nuts are 10 mm hex. Feeler gauges are 0.15 mm (intake) and 0.30 mm (exhaust). And there is a Torx fitting for the cylinder cover bolts, T45 sounds about right, again a good assortment should have it (if you're doing valves you'll want Torx for other fittings, in particular T25 and T30 to remove the plastic). You'll also want a 16mm deep socket or plug wrench to remove the plug.

And - consider investing in a torque wrench. It doesn't take much to overtighten things. I have a 1/4" for the smaller/low torque (<~10 Nm) and 3/8" for the larger/moderate torque (>~10 Nm).

Aside from that, a decent selection of tools that most shade tree mechanics have will be fine.

Jim Von Baden has a pictorial on how to adjust the valves. Some of us also use plastic straw, chopstick or similar down the plug hole to confirm Top Dead Center.

JayJay

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Last edited by JayJay; Mar 28th, 2012 at 4:18 pm.
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post #8 of 43 Old Mar 28th, 2012, 8:54 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by JayJay

And - consider investing in a torque wrench. It doesn't take much to overtighten things. I have a 1/4" for the smaller/low torque (<~10 Nm) and 3/8" for the larger/moderate torque (>~10 Nm).

JayJay
JayJay - what brand torque wrench do you use? I am shopping for a pair of reliable ones.

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post #9 of 43 Old Mar 29th, 2012, 10:11 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Torque wrenches... Craftsman: good but spendy

Harbor Freight: Low cost but accurate (?)

I have both and find that they are both reading the same- so maybe HF is OK. Your Call

To get the handiest tool in the box for a valve adjustment go to a 7/11 and get the really big /long straw. Use it to push into the spark plug hole to feel when you get to top dead center.

To do it right you need two feeler gauges... of each size.
Since there are two intake and two exhaust valves... you will get the best results if you have gauges for both at the same time.

2014 R1200RT WC

“As Woody Guthrie says, ‘Left wing, right wing, chicken wing.’I keep my mind open. Whatever you believe, it’s all a mystery in the end.”
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post #10 of 43 Old Mar 29th, 2012, 10:27 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

http://www.protorquetools.com/cat-35...e_wrenches.htm

Those are the folks that make Snap-On's wrenches. They're awesome, and at the sale prices, they're a steal.

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post #11 of 43 Old Mar 29th, 2012, 11:12 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by 05Train
http://www.protorquetools.com/cat-35...e_wrenches.htm

Those are the folks that make Snap-On's wrenches. They're awesome, and at the sale prices, they're a steal.
Thanks, I will give these some considerations. The prices are definitely a lot cheaper than Snap On prices!

Hopz - thanks for your comment also. I am going down to HF later to look at the MC Lift that they have. Got a coupon for $299, which is great price. I am going to pick up a pair of torque wrench there as well (partly based on your comment). I have a coupon for their 3/8" drive at less than $10, and the price for the 1/4" drive one is just a few dollars more. I do want to have a good one on-hand for more critical works, and so I might get a 3/8" drive one from the source that 05Train had provided as well.

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Once Upon a Time........
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post #12 of 43 Old Mar 29th, 2012, 1:04 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Protorque is the way to go. Great wrenches fair price. A lifetime tool.

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post #13 of 43 Old Mar 29th, 2012, 5:39 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Get both sizes. The 1/4 for the spark plugs etc, and the big one for the Rear wheel and such.

No matter which brand you get, read and follow the instructions.

If you go for the HF one, practice on something else- not your bike- maybe your lawn mower... get used to the very subtle "click" of the proper torque. It is less of an audible and more of a touch thing... practice and then have no fear.

I have a big ole torsion-bar Craftsman which I know to be accurate. The H-F and the Sears Torsion bar are right on.

YMMV....

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post #14 of 43 Old Mar 29th, 2012, 6:16 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by PadG
JayJay - what brand torque wrench do you use? I am shopping for a pair of reliable ones.
Pad - sorry I didn't get back to you, had to do my Day Job today.

I think I ordered mine from McMaster-Carr, which is where I go for a lot of stuff. But if I had it to do over again I'd probably go ProTorque like Beech and Train. I'm assuming that your comment about a coupon from Harbor Freight for a $10 wrench is a typo, I'm afraid I'd be really skeptical about the ability of a $10 torque wrench to maintain any semblance of calibration over time.

I have a Craftsman 1/2" drive torque wrench that must be 30 years old that I used to rebuild old cast iron American V-8's back in the day.. Way overkill for anything aluminum now, 1/4" and 3/8" should do you fine.

BTW, for anything that uses multiple fasterners, it's a good idea to sneak up on the final value. Say the five bolts that hold the rear wheel. Run them all in finger tight, then go around again with finger tight while simultaneously wiggling the wheel to be sure things are seated. Then do a round with the torque wrench set at maybe 50% of the final value, then go to full value with another round. And after you've gone that round, go round once again to confirm that nothing has shifted. I do the same thing with the four bolts that hold the cylinder cover to be sure I get even pressure on the gasket, I've never had a leak.

JayJay

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post #15 of 43 Old Mar 29th, 2012, 8:46 pm
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Red face Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by hopz
Get both sizes. The 1/4 for the spark plugs etc, and the big one for the Rear wheel and such.

No matter which brand you get, read and follow the instructions.

If you go for the HF one, practice on something else- not your bike- maybe your lawn mower... get used to the very subtle "click" of the proper torque. It is less of an audible and more of a touch thing... practice and then have no fear.

I have a big ole torsion-bar Craftsman which I know to be accurate. The H-F and the Sears Torsion bar are right on.

YMMV....
Thanks hopz. I have used torque wrench quite often in the past, but usually in my engineering labs. Never bought one for home before, since back then, when I need a torque wrench at home, I simply bring the one from work home for the weekend! I hadn't paid any attentions to what brands they were, because my lab manager take care of buying them, and keeping inventory. Now that I am retired..........I need to have the tools at home!! [img]images/icons/icon7.gif[/img]

I did go to HF earlier this afternoon, and picked up the 3/8" drive one. With the coupon from Motorcycle magazine, that cost me all of $9.99 plus tax. On top of that I had a coupon to pick up a $9 multimeter for free. Not too bad. They didn't have the 1/4" drive torque wrench in stock, so I will check again when I go back to get the cycle lift. As I said in my previous message, I will also get a 3/8" torque wrench from CDI for more precision works, and use the HF ones for rough and not so precise works.

Pad. Gajajiva
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2015 R1200RT (San Marino Blue Met.)
2014 R1200RT (Quartz Metallic Blue - Returned to BMW)
2007 R1200RT (Sold!)


Once Upon a Time........
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post #16 of 43 Old Mar 29th, 2012, 8:52 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by JayJay
Pad - sorry I didn't get back to you, had to do my Day Job today.

I think I ordered mine from McMaster-Carr, which is where I go for a lot of stuff. But if I had it to do over again I'd probably go ProTorque like Beech and Train. I'm assuming that your comment about a coupon from Harbor Freight for a $10 wrench is a typo, I'm afraid I'd be really skeptical about the ability of a $10 torque wrench to maintain any semblance of calibration over time.

I have a Craftsman 1/2" drive torque wrench that must be 30 years old that I used to rebuild old cast iron American V-8's back in the day.. Way overkill for anything aluminum now, 1/4" and 3/8" should do you fine.

BTW, for anything that uses multiple fasterners, it's a good idea to sneak up on the final value. Say the five bolts that hold the rear wheel. Run them all in finger tight, then go around again with finger tight while simultaneously wiggling the wheel to be sure things are seated. Then do a round with the torque wrench set at maybe 50% of the final value, then go to full value with another round. And after you've gone that round, go round once again to confirm that nothing has shifted. I do the same thing with the four bolts that hold the cylinder cover to be sure I get even pressure on the gasket, I've never had a leak.

JayJay
Thanks JayJay. I use McMasters a lot also. I just don't know enough about their tools though.

No, the $9.99 coupon was not a typo. I picked one up just a few hours ago. If you get Motorcycle magazine, you will find that HF have some extraordinary coupons in there. The $9.99 torque wrench was normally listed at $39.95, or something like that. The motorcycle lift that I will be picking up in the near future is $299 with the coupon. It is on sale right now at HF for $499, and the "normal" list price is $599. Not too shabby, huh!

Pad. Gajajiva
Solon, OH, USA

2015 R1200RT (San Marino Blue Met.)
2014 R1200RT (Quartz Metallic Blue - Returned to BMW)
2007 R1200RT (Sold!)


Once Upon a Time........
1963 Norton Dominator 650 SS
1960 Triumph Bonneville (T120)
1960 Triumph Thunderbird (6T)
1952 Triumph Thunderbird (6T)
1932 Triumph 500
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post #17 of 43 Old Mar 30th, 2012, 7:13 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by 05Train
http://www.protorquetools.com/cat-35...e_wrenches.htm

Those are the folks that make Snap-On's wrenches. They're awesome, and at the sale prices, they're a steal.
Thanks again for the link! I had just placed an order for a 3/8" drive torque wrench.

Pad. Gajajiva
Solon, OH, USA

2015 R1200RT (San Marino Blue Met.)
2014 R1200RT (Quartz Metallic Blue - Returned to BMW)
2007 R1200RT (Sold!)


Once Upon a Time........
1963 Norton Dominator 650 SS
1960 Triumph Bonneville (T120)
1960 Triumph Thunderbird (6T)
1952 Triumph Thunderbird (6T)
1932 Triumph 500
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post #18 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 8:11 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by GRB60
Aside from normal workbench stuff, Torx drivers (the 2010 and up need a T45 for the valve cover bolts) and feeler gauges. I'm not sure how the valves are adjusted, but would guess Torx, and maybe Hex drivers and the aforementioned normal workbench stuff should do it.
Spark Plug Solution Hope this works.. for the spark plugs, a universal spark plug wrench from Lowes.. 5/8 on one end and I think 3/4 on the other.. problem was it was too short, the entire shaft was in the head even with the cover off. Solution? The front axle adaptor was a perfect fit and a 3 inch extension.. I had all the other tools already so total cost was $4.30.

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post #19 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 8:16 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Still have the alternator belt and brake fluid to do but so far less than $100 into the 24k services..

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post #20 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 9:52 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

I guess I'm the luddite here because I don't get out torque wrenches just to do a valve adjustment. Nothing all that critical- just don't leave the adjuster nut loose enough to vibrate off and end up in the sump (won't get into anything - pickup has a screen- but you'll have wait for an oil change to get it back)

I prefer go / no-go feeler gauges for setting valves- for me its the easiest way to unsure .001" accuracy and I prefer it to relying on the feel method for single thickness gauges.
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post #21 of 43 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 9:26 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

When I've used a torque wrench on the lock nuts I always manage to screw up the gap. Like I get it right by tightening the nut with a ring spanner and holding the adjuster with a hex wrench. Then I torque up the lock nut, and I have to remove the hex wrench for that cos I have to put a socket on the nut.

Check the gap and it's tight so the adjuster must have moved a bit. You ca't get a torque ring spanner can you?

Jon
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post #22 of 43 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 9:40 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by hopz

I have a big ole torsion-bar Craftsman which I know to be accurate. The H-F and the Sears Torsion bar are right on.

YMMV....
Funny, those ol school "antique" torsion wrenches a lot of us learned on work and stay working...Just don't let your employees use yours as a breaker bar... That will ruin them on the spot.

I have found when working with critical torques, it's a good practice to clean both surfaces and use anti seize...Believe it or not, a lubricated bolt will torque better, and easier' and be more accurately set when lubed. It prevents false torque readings and false torque due to galling. I ALWAYS use anti seize on the valve cover bolts and spark plugs.

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post #23 of 43 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 9:58 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonA
When I've used a torque wrench on the lock nuts I always manage to screw up the gap. Like I get it right by tightening the nut with a ring spanner and holding the adjuster with a hex wrench. Then I torque up the lock nut, and I have to remove the hex wrench for that cos I have to put a socket on the nut.

Check the gap and it's tight so the adjuster must have moved a bit. You ca't get a torque ring spanner can you?
Get crow foot adaptors for your torque wrench..

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post #24 of 43 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 10:00 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by racer7

I prefer go / no-go feeler gauges for setting valves- for me its the easiest way to unsure .001" accuracy and I prefer it to relying on the feel method for single thickness gauges.
Agree with the step gauges and was upset when I couldn't find mine this time..

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post #25 of 43 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 10:52 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Great advice on tools above. Some other resources for how to use the tools in tuning up your bike can be found at the link below. Just another good reference guide with good photos. Easier To tune up your bike than you think with Jim's and the link's guides. Good luck. Pat

http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/forumdis...Y-Tech-Library
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post #26 of 43 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 11:08 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiram
Funny, those ol school "antique" torsion wrenches a lot of us learned on work and stay working...Just don't let your employees use yours as a breaker bar... That will ruin them on the spot.

I have found when working with critical torques, it's a good practice to clean both surfaces and use anti seize...Believe it or not, a lubricated bolt will torque better, and easier' and be more accurately set when lubed. It prevents false torque readings and false torque due to galling. I ALWAYS use anti seize on the valve cover bolts and spark plugs.
It depends. Some specifications call for dry, some not. It's best to follow whatever the guidelines are in the shop manual.

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post #27 of 43 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 11:17 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by hopz
Torque wrenches... Craftsman: good but spendy

Harbor Freight: Low cost but accurate (?)

I have both and find that they are both reading the same- so maybe HF is OK. Your Call

To get the handiest tool in the box for a valve adjustment go to a 7/11 and get the really big /long straw. Use it to push into the spark plug hole to feel when you get to top dead center.

To do it right you need two feeler gauges... of each size.
Since there are two intake and two exhaust valves... you will get the best results if you have gauges for both at the same time.
Screw the chopsticks. There is a pictorial on the MOA website that show what marks to line up. I'd attach a PDF, but it's too big.

Ponch


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post #28 of 43 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 1:41 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by iambob
Get crow foot adaptors for your torque wrench..
Thanks, I just looked them up - never knew those things existed

Jon
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post #29 of 43 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 1:53 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonA
Thanks, I just looked them up - never knew those things existed
.....and DON'T forget to apply the appropriate correction factor when you use them!

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2015 R1200RT (San Marino Blue Met.)
2014 R1200RT (Quartz Metallic Blue - Returned to BMW)
2007 R1200RT (Sold!)


Once Upon a Time........
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1960 Triumph Thunderbird (6T)
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post #30 of 43 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 1:58 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by PadG
.....and DON'T forget to apply the appropriate correction factor when you use them!
... you might have to give me a clue on that one I set the wrench to 8nm last time

Jon
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post #31 of 43 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 2:13 pm
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Cool Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonA
... you might have to give me a clue on that one I set the wrench to 8nm last time
When you add a crowfoot to your torque wrench, you have also increase the turn radius, which means that the actual torque applied at the business end of the crowfoot will be greater than what you have set on your torque wrench! Here's the math and an online calculator for you to figure out what you will need to set your wrench to:

http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac...e_wrench_1.htm

BTW, as others have said, if your are just tightening the lock nut on the adjuster, then don't even bother with the torque wrench! Just snug it nice and tight. I have worked on cars and bikes since the '60s, and I have yet to torque down on the lock nuts for the valve adjuster. Your choice though, because I certainly can't fault you for doing it!

Pad. Gajajiva
Solon, OH, USA

2015 R1200RT (San Marino Blue Met.)
2014 R1200RT (Quartz Metallic Blue - Returned to BMW)
2007 R1200RT (Sold!)


Once Upon a Time........
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post #32 of 43 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 1:26 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Just did my first valve adj on my '08 RT (using the link above) ... nice. Sure beats needing shims :-) I have had a couple of different shops do my services since buying the bike a year ago and was ready to take it on myself. I wouldn't call myself a natural mechanic and using the link made this drama free.

I wasn't pleased with removing and reinstalling the spark plugs though ... neither of them felt real smooth like every other plug I have changed for decades ... looking at the threads they did not look cross threaded, but it just didn't feel like a normal easy thread until the final snug. I went ahead and used a little anti-sieze on them for the reinstall Guess I should get a plug wire tool also ... never ends does it

Going to build a manometer for the throttle body sync tomorrow and change the oil ... feels good doing my own 30K service!

Chris

Ain't nothin like a friend who can tell you you're just pissin in the wind - Neil Young
2015 BMW R1200RT
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Yard Art - 1968 Sachs 90 / 1968 Hodaka Ace 90
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post #33 of 43 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 8:13 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Way to go, CW! Valve job on this bike is very easy to do. As for the plugs, that should thread in/out smoothly!

Pad. Gajajiva
Solon, OH, USA

2015 R1200RT (San Marino Blue Met.)
2014 R1200RT (Quartz Metallic Blue - Returned to BMW)
2007 R1200RT (Sold!)


Once Upon a Time........
1963 Norton Dominator 650 SS
1960 Triumph Bonneville (T120)
1960 Triumph Thunderbird (6T)
1952 Triumph Thunderbird (6T)
1932 Triumph 500
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post #34 of 43 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 9:21 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by PadG
Way to go, CW! Valve job on this bike is very easy to do. As for the plugs, that should thread in/out smoothly!
And they will if you don't use any "goop" on the plug threads like the people that make plugs and the people that make this engine specify.

A pretty funny thread all in all ... I'd doubt for one thing that there's a pro BMW tech anywhere that uses a torque wrench on these adjusters, as it's completely unnecessary. A crowfoot adapter--give me a break.

And of course this is easier than shims because it's old fashioned pushrods/rockers rather than modern overhead cams. BMW finally got modern with the 2010 motors.

And, for the most part this exercise will be just a check, as adjustment will be seldom required. If you need frequent adjustment, you've got bigger problems. You might actually need a "valve job."

Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S, '84 R80G/S
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post #35 of 43 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 10:40 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Not sure if you mean the tiny bit of anti-seize by "goop" ... I am guessing you are. I have never used it on plugs before, but like I said this didn't feel right. News to me that the people that build my engine specify no anti-seize, never heard that nor used it on a plug before, but still seems like the right call to me in this case. First time doing an adjustment on a "pre-modern" bike ... like it much better than on a modern bike

Chris

Ain't nothin like a friend who can tell you you're just pissin in the wind - Neil Young
2015 BMW R1200RT
1973 BMW R75/5
Yard Art - 1968 Sachs 90 / 1968 Hodaka Ace 90
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post #36 of 43 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 11:23 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

I think that you might find something about the "goop" in your manual! I am not 100% sure of where I also saw it.

Hey Kent, it might be funny with the questions and "strange" things that people do, but asking these "stupid" questions are the way that one will learn and gain experience! Like what I always used to tell my engineers - the only stupid questions are the one that goes unasked!

Pad. Gajajiva
Solon, OH, USA

2015 R1200RT (San Marino Blue Met.)
2014 R1200RT (Quartz Metallic Blue - Returned to BMW)
2007 R1200RT (Sold!)


Once Upon a Time........
1963 Norton Dominator 650 SS
1960 Triumph Bonneville (T120)
1960 Triumph Thunderbird (6T)
1952 Triumph Thunderbird (6T)
1932 Triumph 500
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post #37 of 43 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 11:27 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by racer7
I guess I'm the luddite here because I don't get out torque wrenches just to do a valve adjustment. Nothing all that critical- just don't leave the adjuster nut loose enough to vibrate off and end up in the sump (won't get into anything - pickup has a screen- but you'll have wait for an oil change to get it back)

I prefer go / no-go feeler gauges for setting valves- for me its the easiest way to unsure .001" accuracy and I prefer it to relying on the feel method for single thickness gauges.
I agree. There are some videos out there which show simply letting the allen wrench fall over with the feeler gauge inserted then tightening the lock nut. I tried that and the gap was way too loose. I adjust them so the next largest feeler gauge goes in if you push hard, and two sizes larger will not go in at all. I can't see any other method working properly, just inserting the gauge and "feeling" is not going to result in accuracy or consistency for the person who only does this occasionally.

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post #38 of 43 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 12:24 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by erikrichard
I agree. There are some videos out there which show simply letting the allen wrench fall over with the feeler gauge inserted then tightening the lock nut. I tried that and the gap was way too loose. I adjust them so the next largest feeler gauge goes in if you push hard, and two sizes larger will not go in at all. I can't see any other method working properly, just inserting the gauge and "feeling" is not going to result in accuracy or consistency for the person who only does this occasionally.
Yeah, I tried that falling allen wrench method at first also, but I wasn't happy with the way that the feeler gauge felt, and so I reverted to what I had always done in the past, and that is by feel! That's why they call the tool feeler gauges! I will say that to do it this way successfully, you do need to have some experience. Having been a certified toolmaker in my youth does help a bit!

Pad. Gajajiva
Solon, OH, USA

2015 R1200RT (San Marino Blue Met.)
2014 R1200RT (Quartz Metallic Blue - Returned to BMW)
2007 R1200RT (Sold!)


Once Upon a Time........
1963 Norton Dominator 650 SS
1960 Triumph Bonneville (T120)
1960 Triumph Thunderbird (6T)
1952 Triumph Thunderbird (6T)
1932 Triumph 500
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post #39 of 43 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 12:41 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by lkchris
And they will if you don't use any "goop" on the plug threads like the people that make plugs and the people that make this engine specify.

A pretty funny thread all in all ... I'd doubt for one thing that there's a pro BMW tech anywhere that uses a torque wrench on these adjusters, as it's completely unnecessary. A crowfoot adapter--give me a break.

And of course this is easier than shims because it's old fashioned pushrods/rockers rather than modern overhead cams. BMW finally got modern with the 2010 motors.

And, for the most part this exercise will be just a check, as adjustment will be seldom required. If you need frequent adjustment, you've got bigger problems. You might actually need a "valve job."
I found my clearances were loose initially, especially on the intake side after the 6k and a little less on the 12K service and almost dead on with the 18K mile service. I guess things work in. With shims, I think they tend to get tighter over time, not looser, but they are more stable and I would prefer them. I'll see how the clearances look at the 24K service coming up.

Ponch


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post #40 of 43 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 3:39 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by PadG
When you add a crowfoot to your torque wrench, you have also increase the turn radius, which means that the actual torque applied at the business end of the crowfoot will be greater than what you have set on your torque wrench! Here's the math and an online calculator for you to figure out what you will need to set your wrench to:

http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac...e_wrench_1.htm

BTW, as others have said, if your are just tightening the lock nut on the adjuster, then don't even bother with the torque wrench! Just snug it nice and tight. I have worked on cars and bikes since the '60s, and I have yet to torque down on the lock nuts for the valve adjuster. Your choice though, because I certainly can't fault you for doing it!
I understand the theory and it's easy to apply to a bending-beam wrench (with the pointer) - just measure from the handle pivot - but does it work the same way with a click-type wrench? If not, how about putting the crowsfoot adapter so it points to the side, that way length "L" is almost the same and no compensation is needed.

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post #41 of 43 Old Sep 16th, 2013, 8:44 am
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rider2
I understand the theory and it's easy to apply to a bending-beam wrench (with the pointer) - just measure from the handle pivot - but does it work the same way with a click-type wrench? If not, how about putting the crowsfoot adapter so it points to the side, that way length "L" is almost the same and no compensation is needed.
Torque = Force x Distance.

Your torque wrench will "click" at the set torque, and hence define the force that your hand apply to the handle. That given force multiply by the new larger distance of the addition of the crowfoot will result in higher torque being applied to the business end of the crowfoot at the same setting!

Turning the crowfoot 90 degree? Pythagoras will tell you that your new distance is the diagonal from the handle to the crowfoot, which is still a greater distance!

If you want to be dead accurate, you can't avoid taking some factor into account if you do add a crowfoot, or any similar attachment to your torque wrench!

Pad. Gajajiva
Solon, OH, USA

2015 R1200RT (San Marino Blue Met.)
2014 R1200RT (Quartz Metallic Blue - Returned to BMW)
2007 R1200RT (Sold!)


Once Upon a Time........
1963 Norton Dominator 650 SS
1960 Triumph Bonneville (T120)
1960 Triumph Thunderbird (6T)
1952 Triumph Thunderbird (6T)
1932 Triumph 500
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post #42 of 43 Old Sep 16th, 2013, 9:46 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

so when I used the manometer I built yesterday for the TBS today, I found them significantly out of sync on the manometer and couldn't get zero to hold. Since several of the posts I have read speak to the valve adjustment needing to be spot on for the TBS. This thread planted a seed that maybe the allen wrench falling valve adjustment method wasn't accurate ... rechecked the valves and they are spot on using the go/no go feeler gauge method. The cable slack for the TBS was tighter on the right side, so I added some slack to it and adjusted slack from the left side and did get a zero sync on the manometer. But when I recheck a little later, the manometer is within an inch or two at 2500 to 4000 RPM ... good enough? something else I should be looking at?

The other good news is the anti seize did the trick and both plugs came out and went back in as smooth as butter. Guess I can't report a "no drama" day, but all is well, and I built a little confidence in the falling allen wrench valve adjustment methodology.

Chris

Ain't nothin like a friend who can tell you you're just pissin in the wind - Neil Young
2015 BMW R1200RT
1973 BMW R75/5
Yard Art - 1968 Sachs 90 / 1968 Hodaka Ace 90
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post #43 of 43 Old Apr 19th, 2019, 10:35 pm
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Re: RT Valve Adjustment

if you still have that set of rt feeler gauges id be interested
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