Don’t freak out- while this is about oil, it isn’t an oil thread. Ha ha.
IF you are someone who runs this oil in your bike, read on...
Just purchased the 2.5 gallon container of Shell Rotella T6 oil for $49.99 and there is an online rebate of $17.50. (That means I’m netting about $3.25 per quart.)
You can go to Rotella.com/rebate and plug in your Zip Code to see if there is a participating store near you. It looks like Tractor Supply is an option.
It seems that Shell had removed the gasoline engine related specification from their T6 label as well as what they claim, on their web site, as the specification for the T6, about a year ago. Did they also change the formulation? Don't know, but I won't risk using the oil for my regular oil change even if it happen to be the one that I usually use!
I was unaware of the change PadG, thanks for posting this. I have confidently used it for many years based on always reading that it met all specs. Looks like a change is in store for me.
I had thought that pretty much everybody knew about the T6 change! I did my 24k service a few months ago, and changed over to LiquiMoly instead of my usual T6.
Well heck, maybe this will turn into another oil thread.
I just looked on the Shell website and they show on their own PDF the 5w-40 being JASO MA / MA2 approved. Is it possible it was approved before being not approved and then approved again?
Shell Rotella T-6 5-40 has always been Jaso approved. BUT...it was not on the container. Call the tech line at Shell and they would tell you it was approved. There was even a copy of a data sheet made after the initial one that came out clearly showing Jaso ratings.
That has never really been in question. The later version DOES have JASO MA2 on the containers.
The BIG change, and one when you call the Shell tech line they confirm, is that they no longer have an API gasoline engine rating. EXACTLY what changed I don't know. The only thing those that were concerned about Jaso would really effect is the wet clutch. Which clearly the T-6 worked just fine with. Now, with no API rating, you would be up the creek should you have an engine/transmission warranty claim and were running a non API rated oil. Simple as that.
Otherwise the truth is that this may be the same oil and Shell is just marketing things differently. I switched to Liqui-Moly and won't go back to Shell.
That is exactly what I also think, Terry! I don't think that the formulation has changed, but is it worth the risk? Incidentally, I think that it's a little ironic that Shell kept the JASO rating on the label (even if that's via "self-certification" over being properly certified by JASO), because (going from memory here) if you look at the full specification for JASO MA2, you should see that the oil is also required to meet certain API spec!
Ponch - I know where you are going with that one, and it's what I had in the back of my mind all along! BMW changed from Castrol to Shell in 2014. The wethead manual for the '14 RT promotes Castrol products, but in my '15 RT (manufactured and delivered in Nov. 2014) had changed to Shell. Now, take a look at the available oil out there that meets BMW spec. for our wethead, and you will find very few, with most of them being fairly expensive, EXCEPT for the T6! So, how does Shell eliminate the conflict in favor of the more expensive Advantec (only available here in the US under BMW badge)?
Personally, if I had bought T6 oil, or have some on hand, or for some reasons needs oil while on the road, I would not hesitate to use it. I had brought the subject up just to make sure that you guys know all of the facts and decide accordingly!
You are correct, Jaso MA2 must meet passenger car oil specs, API, ILSAC or ACEA. I wouldn't be surprised if it was API SN. The oil formulation may have changed or not. We don't know.
The reason I think they don't use the SAE API SL (or SN being the current rating) is that there is a licensing cost to use the logo. Since they don't market that product for passenger vehicles, why would they pay for that?
ps To the OP, TwoWheels, you know we can't resist an oil thread!
One of the things I find ironic is at one point BMW, or it's engineers, stated the switch to the new oil was because they no longer want molybdenum in their oils. Claims it can harm the coatings of the engine.
But in Blackstone testing of the "new" Shell oil, what was found in it? Yep, molybdenum. And I'm not talking trace amounts either. Amounts similar to the earlier Shell T6 with API ratings on it. Even better, testing of the Liquid Moly does NOT have molybdenum in there. So by BMW standards, Liquid Moly is an even better oil than it's own BMW branded.
92merc - you must be referring to the discussion in the other forum! Interesting data posted there. The BMW oil, in actual analysis, has the highest level of molybdenum than all of the others by a very long shot! LiquiMoly, OTOH, has what I would consider to be minute trace amount. Don't recall the number for the T6, but that was fairly low also, and definitely much lower than the BMW branded oil.
It seems as though everyone is talking about oil we cannot use, or can no longer use. What CAN we use? Isn't there a Castro oil that is safe AND readily available?
This is what many have switched to, and what I've been using for about 3 years now. It is 4 liters, not 4 quarts. So you have a little bit left over after an oil change.
My dealer says they use BMW Advantec, but I would prefer a synthetic, if possible.
I find the shipping from BeemerBoneyard to be excessive... Amazon has the same 4 litre container for $49 w/free ship, if you are a Prime member, plus 5% back if using the Chase Amazon card. For me, I think this is the way to go.
OTOH, if what you mean by readily available is the ability to walk into any store and buy some, then there are none but the T6! So, as I said, if you are on the road and have immediate needs of oil for your wethead RT (one guy in the other forum had managed to knock a hole in his valve cover and lost a lot of oil, and fell into this category), then you will be totally out of luck, but I would use the T6 without hesitations.
No, Advantec is not synthetic. But it is what BMW recommends for the authorized service centers to use. For me, I would rather use synthetic. Though if you are changing oil every year, with < 3000 miles/year, then I am not sure how much advantage there is to synthetic. For me, I ride < 2000 miles/year. On my other bikes, I only change oil every other year, with synthetic.
I have seen so many wrong information that had originated from the "experts" from the dealership being quoted in this forum over the years that I had come to expect it. Oh, there are several good ones out there, but there are so many others, and of course, if you are not relatively technical savvy, then you have no choice but to depend on the "experts". At least you now know who NOT to rely on for information!
In Europe if it says "Synthetic" it MUST be just that. NOT ultra refined from crude stock. I am just guessing...but natural gas may be considered crude stock?
In the US, synthetic only means it meets a certain specification. I think that if is says full synthetic it isn't made from crude stock. But I didn't just go and spend an hour researching that either....
The whole topic is shrouded in some ambiguity. According to Wiki's take it would appear Advantec qualifies as a synthetic lubricant. In their definition it seems the common denominator is in the processing and refining versus the source of the base material per se. But therein lies the ambiguity since ultimately all lubricants require "processing and refining". How much qualifies? In the end the definition should encompass the finished product's characteristics, explained by differences in chemical composition and the refining processes to get there.
"Synthetic oil is a lubricant consisting of chemical compounds that are artificially made. Synthetic lubricants can be manufactured using chemically modified petroleum components rather than whole crude oil, but can also be synthesized from other raw materials. The base material, however, is still overwhelmingly crude oil that is distilled and then modified physically and chemically." Wikipedia
They go on to state "FULL synthetic" is a marketing term only and is not a "measurable quality". And they mention the various types of synthetics derived from Groups III-V "base stocks". When you get in deeper into each base stock the emphasis goes strongly towards the actual chemistry of the lubricants, how they are produced and what their chemical characteristics are and their associated lubricity.
Since the oil for the RT is so specific, difficult to find, and apparently, the engine will go chernobyl if you don't put the exact, correct oil in (sarcasm)... Does everyone carry a small container of this highly specialized oil on their bike, in case you have low oil, and are not within proximity of a bmw motorcycle service center that is open at the time you need it? What if you were on a long trip, and your oil level became low?
I was thinking... Maybe I could one of those small, lawn mower 2-cycle oil containers and fill it with RT specific oil and carry it with me. Does anyone actually do this?
In my experience, the wetheads don't use oil like the previous air/oil cooled ones. I've never had to on my bike but I had to add oil for the first time in a rented R1250RT that had 15,000 km and hadn't been serviced at 10,000 km. Not my bike, don't ask.
The low oil level icon had just popped-on. It should come on when your engine needs half a litre so if you want to carry some oil, just in case, you would need a container of that same volume. Europeans have it good, half litre of motorcycle oil are available at service areas.
In over 50,000 miles of use, and the last two oil changes had over 7000 mile on each of them, I have never had to add oil to the Wethead. Not even close to needing make-up oil added.
I have had my check oil level alert come on a few times....but it was exactly where it should be......
I carried and used extra oil on my ‘08 RT. When I purchased my ‘15, I promptly added a qt to one of the panniers. It came out after recognizing it wasn’t needed ... ever. With 45k on the odo, I have never needed to add oil in between changes.
Like the others have said. For most folk, the Wethead uses no oil. The best advice I can give is, monitor your bike. If it uses oil, carry a small bottle with you. If it doesn't, don't worry about it. You have an on-board reminder if the oil level drops a little, so you have plenty time to look for oil.
For me, in an emergency, I would put any reasonable quality oil as a stop gap to get me home, then (personally) I would consider and oil change anyway.
Like the others have said. For most folk, the Wethead uses no oil. The best advice I can give is, monitor your bike. If it uses oil, carry a small bottle with you. If it doesn't, don't worry about it. You have an on-board reminder if the oil level drops a little, so you have plenty time to look for oil.
For me, in an emergency, I would put any reasonable quality oil as a stop gap to get me home, then (personally) I would consider and oil change anyway.
This is the response I got from ShellHello Gordon,
The Rotella T6 5w-40 still does carry over 1200ppm of zinc but is now tested to the JASO DH-2 spec. It would be suitable for a gasoline engine with out a catalytic converter not in warranty.
Sincerely,
Don Spence
Technical Data Specialist, Shell Tech Center Houston
Lubricant answers on demand at www.LubeChat.com
Not to beat this dead horse any more, but the Liqui Moly from BB has API SM rating and the manual calls for API SL. I am not an oil guy and don't know the difference. Does one supersede the other or surpass the other?
I know read the manual. But I am getting conflicting info on the API rating. Bottom line is it OK to use API SM instead of API SL?
The way the API standards are designed allows oils with a later designation to be considered acceptable for use in older engines that stated an earlier designation.
So, if your engine specs call for "SL" API rating, then SM, SN would automatically be acceptable. If you engine calls for SM, then SL would NOT be considered acceptable. As long as the rating is higher than what your engine calls for, it is acceptable for use.
That said, there have been cases where the later designations were NOT ok, but these are rare. Most of them were in much older generation engines.
The Liqui-Moly you use is what I use also. I have gone over 7000 miles on that oil and had it tested. Good for at least 9000 miles according to that report. That report also shows less wear metals with LM oil than any other I have used. Good stuff!
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