If your bike has the circular plug for the powered topbox, you just need to find the 2 wires for the stoplight. They work normally and don't need any dealer intervention.
Some say that the dealer needs to enable it, but all that does is enable the failure warning system for the light. This cannot be done on the GS911.
I haven't looked at my own wiring, but went to the source of where I had gotten the wire color information in the first place. The brake light conductor color is Gray/Black/Yellow-dots.
That's great.
The part about cutting that wire and replacing makes total sense. That was where I was a bit confused how Denali overrides canbus.
Thanks
That is all that you really have to do, with the assumption that your Cansmart meshes into the bike's network (CAN = Communication Area Network, a protocol and not a "thing"! ) in similar manner as my Canopener, so that it will "know" when the brakes are being applied. If using other type of controller, the other end of that cut conductor will be needed to provide signal to the controller.
I built a system using 4 Skene P4 pods, except I wired both turn and tail/brake lights using Skene controllers. While the Denali box you are connecting to might be different, the Skene schematics, photographs, and instructions online can help you understand the plugs and wires you might need to deal with. See https://www.skenelights.com/r1200rt-k1200gt-p3-installation, about 2/3 to the bottom of the page in the section titled "Convert Topcase Brake Light Into a Combined Tail Light / Flashing Brake Light - Applicable to both K1600GT/GTL and R1200RT."
I also have a Denali B6 brake light running off a Cansmart, but I really wanted turn signals in the top box too, and the Skene system was the only way I found to easily accomplish that.
It would help to know what kind of LED pods you intend to use. One potential issue: the current Denali CanSmart can dim LEDs two different ways. By default, it expects a three-wire circuit, with a +12V DC constant "hot" wire, a ground, and a "signal" wire which carries a signal that tells a three-wire capable driver how to pulse width modulate the voltage to achieve a particular brightness. For Denali lights, the driver circuit in the light pods handles this signal from the third wire. If you have a three-wire pod, you'll need to run two wires to the light which is a pain.
If you hook up the CanSmart using only the "hot" lead, to a non-Denali, 2-wire dimmable light, you might get a light that is on at 100% intensity at all times unless you tell the controller that you need a 2-wire signal. In the Denali software, you can adjust the settings to make any light circuit a "two-wire dimming" capable circuit, in which case the CanSmart will encode the pulse-width-modulation onto the hot lead and the two-wire light will function as expected and can be a tail and brake light. See some info at https://www.twistedthrottle.com/blog/new-from-denali-cansmart-two-wire-dimming-software-update/.
Good, no, great idea. I will look into trying to get a flashing top box light on my set-up.
I have an electrified OEM top box on my '18RT, with a Clearwater CanOpener and Billie tail light. Hopefully I can tap into that. I've found the Clearwater folks to be extremely helpful providing info so I can DIY wiring using their xlnt products.
Between the Admore side case turn/stop/tail lights, the OEM top box light, and the Billie, the Billie is the star of the show. Twice as bright and attention grabbing as either of the other. Not sorry I have the others, they serve a valuable function, but if I can get the Billie inertial and flashing logic into the topcase, I will score higher yet on conspicuity.
Since I've installed front, side, and rear auxiliary lighting, (including tinted lenses and flashing that Clearwater offers front and rear), it is amazing the increased elbow room I get from other motorists.
Just keep in mind that the Canopener brake light output has a maximum capacity of 1 amp! So, tapping that output to run both the Billie light as well as the topbox aux. LED could be a problem. You need to figure out the total load.
I found that out the hard way. Blew the arse out of the stoplight circuit in the Canopener. A new Canopener cost me $100 US, which is a lot of Pacific Pe$o$.
I have a solid state relay which I'm going to use with the aftermarket topbox light. Never thought a row of high intensity LEDs the size of the BMW topbox light would pull more than 1A.
Ouch! I would have thought that they would have over-current protection in the circuitry!
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