Ricardo...thanks for the advice. no creases at the A-arm. Handlebars visually seem ok but with their curvature it's not easily discerned really. I will look into that a bit further.
Find a really flat surface, secure the bike in a way is totally straight (use a level & shims if you have too and then use a plumb bob to determine the end of the bars in relationship to a affix point, can be the wheel, the "Bash guard mount (the 12mm hole on the very front of the engine) a line on the floor, this way you can tell if them are fore or aft, their height, etc, is not so hard..
Also very simple, re set you levers to the usual angle, is amazing what a little impact and a newer angle can make the bike feel like is twisted, (Mostly your perception)
Sound like you impact was not that hard (I'm use to GS's landing "Endo" from a jump) so the main pivot points at the engine are not a big concern, but I have seeing more than a few getting ovalized and/or developing stress rising cracks that will deem the engine block unusable (Again, extreme case, so unless the bike hit a tree on the ravine or something that "Stop" her in a hurry I will not worried about it)
Question: "loosen the bolts..." Since the engine is a stressed member by way of the frame on these bikes, are we talking about loosening everything, i.e., pivot bolts at telelever a-arm, fork bolts, axle bolt, and some of the frame bolts? If so, which bolts?
Oh sorry much simpler, none of the main big bolts, if those are FUBAR you need big help..
Just the ones that attach the telelever plate to the legs, the axle & pinch bolt, etc, the small hardware and only lose them to like 20 pounds and then bring them back to the appropriate torque..
what is really important is to check the stanchion for straightness (If they don't pass the spine test (in bikes like the RT the "Gimbal" for the upper televeler arm is in the "steering column" Upper ball joint) on your R you have one small ball joint on the top of each fork leg and the steering is mounted rigid to the front subframe..