Re-align bike after a spill? - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 4 Old Sep 14th, 2019, 9:24 am Thread Starter
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Re-align bike after a spill?

2007 R1200R. I realize this is the RT section (I also have an RT), more people own RT's than R's, likely more readers of this section, hoping to increase odds of an answer. It's the same basic suspension setup, with the addition of a steering damper.

I went down on the bike and slid, probably at 30mph in a ditch, a few months ago. I have done a basic visual, and ridden it since then. Front tire was worn, I removed it, had tire mounted, reinstalled myself. Mechanically inclined and experienced, but by no means a BMW tech or a certified motorcycle tech.

After a drop on a bike with conventional suspension, I'm familiar with what to "loosen and retighten" to re-align the bike, but on a Telelever setup, I'm not certain. Does anyone have experience with this? Could you provide some advice? Please and thanks!

2007 BMW R1200R
2005 BMW R1200RT
2004 Honda VTX 1300c (sold)
1983 Honda CX650c (sold)
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post #2 of 4 Old Sep 14th, 2019, 12:27 pm
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Re: Re-align bike after a spill?

Oh do the old soosing the bolts, then against a wall bounce the bike until the stress of the impact has been release..


When spin the stanchion tubes (the chromed tubes that come out of the fork into the triple clamp (you can do this on the R but not on the RT) if they are hard to spin probably they are bend, take them out and roll them on a really flat surface like a glass table, if you have the equipment (I have used twin trees, park benches, etc, you name it with great results) and skill they are not that hard to correct, or you can send them to a expert..

If any of the other parts got compromise, check for creases at the front of your A-arm ) Again your A-arm is different than the one on the RT) if is okay but the bike still acts funny, check the Engine mounts, because they can become ovalize after a BIG impact (I don't think that is your case..

also the handlebars can be a little bend giving you the impression the bike is tweaked)
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post #3 of 4 Old Sep 14th, 2019, 1:53 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Re-align bike after a spill?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardo Kuhn View Post
Oh do the old soosing the bolts, then against a wall bounce the bike until the stress of the impact has been release..


When spin the stanchion tubes (the chromed tubes that come out of the fork into the triple clamp (you can do this on the R but not on the RT) if they are hard to spin probably they are bend, take them out and roll them on a really flat surface like a glass table, if you have the equipment (I have used twin trees, park benches, etc, you name it with great results) and skill they are not that hard to correct, or you can send them to a expert..

If any of the other parts got compromise, check for creases at the front of your A-arm ) Again your A-arm is different than the one on the RT) if is okay but the bike still acts funny, check the Engine mounts, because they can become ovalize after a BIG impact (I don't think that is your case..

also the handlebars can be a little bend giving you the impression the bike is tweaked)
..

Ricardo...thanks for the advice. no creases at the A-arm. Handlebars visually seem ok but with their curvature it's not easily discerned really. I will look into that a bit further.
Question: "loosen the bolts..." Since the engine is a stressed member by way of the frame on these bikes, are we talking about loosening everything, i.e., pivot bolts at telelever a-arm, fork bolts, axle bolt, and some of the frame bolts? If so, which bolts?

2007 BMW R1200R
2005 BMW R1200RT
2004 Honda VTX 1300c (sold)
1983 Honda CX650c (sold)
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post #4 of 4 Old Sep 15th, 2019, 2:24 am
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Re: Re-align bike after a spill?

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Originally Posted by BB 1200RT View Post
..

Ricardo...thanks for the advice. no creases at the A-arm. Handlebars visually seem ok but with their curvature it's not easily discerned really. I will look into that a bit further.
Find a really flat surface, secure the bike in a way is totally straight (use a level & shims if you have too and then use a plumb bob to determine the end of the bars in relationship to a affix point, can be the wheel, the "Bash guard mount (the 12mm hole on the very front of the engine) a line on the floor, this way you can tell if them are fore or aft, their height, etc, is not so hard..

Also very simple, re set you levers to the usual angle, is amazing what a little impact and a newer angle can make the bike feel like is twisted, (Mostly your perception)

Sound like you impact was not that hard (I'm use to GS's landing "Endo" from a jump) so the main pivot points at the engine are not a big concern, but I have seeing more than a few getting ovalized and/or developing stress rising cracks that will deem the engine block unusable (Again, extreme case, so unless the bike hit a tree on the ravine or something that "Stop" her in a hurry I will not worried about it)

Quote:
Question: "loosen the bolts..." Since the engine is a stressed member by way of the frame on these bikes, are we talking about loosening everything, i.e., pivot bolts at telelever a-arm, fork bolts, axle bolt, and some of the frame bolts? If so, which bolts?
Oh sorry much simpler, none of the main big bolts, if those are FUBAR you need big help..

Just the ones that attach the telelever plate to the legs, the axle & pinch bolt, etc, the small hardware and only lose them to like 20 pounds and then bring them back to the appropriate torque..

what is really important is to check the stanchion for straightness (If they don't pass the spine test (in bikes like the RT the "Gimbal" for the upper televeler arm is in the "steering column" Upper ball joint) on your R you have one small ball joint on the top of each fork leg and the steering is mounted rigid to the front subframe..
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