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Buying an R1150RT or an R1200RT?

7K views 36 replies 15 participants last post by  nikosK1200LT 
#1 ·
Hi,
I come from the K1200LT side and I may be buying a1150 or a 1200 RT. Can you please advice me what to be careful of on these two bikes? Where do they hurt? Do they have any problems and if yes which ones?

Thanks
 
#3 ·
iABS on the 1150 can be problematic and expensive to repair unless yearly fluid changes have been carried out and preferably the brake lines have been changed to braided. Great bike the 1150rt. I didn't want one but borrowed one for a ride and fell in love with it

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#4 ·
Which 1200RT are you talking about?
The 1150 is a BEAUTIFUL bike whereas the 1200RT Hexhead(2005 - 2009) and the Camhead (2010 - 2013) were less than beautiful!
The 2014 - 2018 RT's are in a totally different league in terms of engine performance.

So, problems - yes the early 1150's (2002 and before) had potential gearbox input shaft issues. Also surging, also final drive issues. However, the 2003 onward (twin spark models) pretty much fixed all those issues.One thing that did persist (and on into the early 1200's) was the totally unnecessary servo brakes. The servo's can fail. However, very easy to remove the servo and end up with very nice brakes.

As for the 1200's (2005 - 2009) they continue to have fuel strip issues and switchgear issues.

Test rides are what you need. Take long rides, not a quick zip around the block. For me, the 1150 was better than any of the 1200's UNTIL the Wethead came out (2014 onward) and that was a game changer.

However, as you will know from being around these forums, we all love these bikes and most owners are besotted with what they have, with very few exceptions.
 
#5 ·
NOTE: I only have GS experience, but the Can-BUS is pretty much the same..

In my experience, the new bikes are far to complicated for no good reason, to many sensors that can leave you stranded if they fail (Corrosion is a big deal, I guess that is more of a GS issue)..

Then again in the middle of nowhere that bring big headaches, on the road you just call AAA or a tow truck..

Ps: I value simplicity and reliability at all cost.. (more than 500,000 miles on 1000 & 1150 Platforms and not more than 25.000 on my 2007 GS that had let me stranded three times so far)
 
#6 ·
So far thank you all very much for your knowledge contribution. You all know that buying a used bike is a pain in the b..., this is what I can afford now till I pay off the roof over my head. Of course this leaves to me no room for any tragical mistakes that cost a lot to repair used ones.
Please go ahead and advice me to avoid any mistakes.
Thanks
 
#7 ·
Yes, there is always some risk with a used bike, but that is almost always better than no bike at all! :grin:
 
#8 ·
My first BMW was a 2002 1150RT, I still missed it when I sold it and bought an '07! Even though the '07 was newer I had a few issues with as compared to my '02. The 1150RT is a great tourer, especially with a Cee Baileys windshield! The only issue I ever had with it was the brake lines, but that's an easy fix with a set of new braided lines. If you can get one that's been properly taken care of and maintained I wouldn't hesitate to get another, but for now I'm enjoying my 2012 camhead!

J
 
#15 ·
Yeah, the brake lines fail to most BMW's. I wonder why are we stuck on :laugh:"BMW quality":laugh: and pay loads of monies for it when Hondas come cheaper for the same comforts and do not fail big time. Imagine, BMW never recalled the LT(and all the other models using it) failing final drives. I personally would feel ashamed to present another bike in the market.
 
#9 · (Edited)
If you get an 1150RT, be sure it is a 2004, not earlier. The 2004 twin-spark models eliminated surging. Here is a 2004RT:



The 1200RT from 2007 on is better in all ways than the 1150, though IMHO the 1150 is prettier.
 
#10 ·
If you get an 1150RT, be sure it is a 2004, not earlier. The 2004 twin-spark models eliminated surging....

...The 1200RT from 2007 on is better in all ways than the 1150, though IMHO the 1150 is prettier.
Not quite true about the 1150. The good ones ARE the twin spark, but they were from 2003.

As for your comment about the 2007 better in all ways, I can't agree fully on that either. For sure there were changes and improvements, but in terms of comfort, aesthetics and cockpit, the 1150 was a better bike for many of us.
 
#11 ·
Both are great bikes but like a lot of things I would get the latest model year you can find and afford. So if going the 1150 look for a 2003 or 2004. Some but not all of the earlier oil head 1100 and 1150 bikes had surging issues. I had a '97 RT and a '02 GS and neither had any surging issues. But the twin spark did help on that issue. Same with the 1200. They are all great bikes but the later 1200's were the CamHead design which was an improvement as well. That being said ALL the 1200's were pretty rock solid bikes. The only real issue that was found on the pre-2010 (I believe) was the fuel strip with was used in place of a fuel float. BUT that is covered by a BMW 12 year warranty and actually not that expensive to replace (about +/- $300) The fuel strip design was changed around 2010 I believe.
 
#12 ·
I thought I had contributed to this thread previously but I do not see it now....

In any case... my experience with my '05 R1200RT was all pleasure.

The scare about the fuel strip was two things... One was that is a fateful failure--- It was was not. 2. That is was the devil to fix- mine was simple and took about 10 minutes. No big deal... and no dealer involved.

My guess is that any '05/'06/07 will have had the minor fix done already anyway- just ask the seller...

Incidentally the Hexhead family is very consistent- meaning there is little difference in them- thus the '07's are the same as the '05's...

and... I can honestly say I enjoyed the '05 probably more then the '14 Wethead.... so there. (the '05 was friendlier, easier to work on and accessible.)
 
#13 ·
Having owned a 2006 and now a 2016 RT I agree the '06 was easier to work on and truly built like a tank. However, the 2016 requires valve checks at 12K intervals and not the annoying 6K of the pre-liquid cooled bikes which makes traveling a bit easier. And yes ... a failure of the fuel strip simply means that your fuel gauge does not function. It is my understanding that the replacement strip was the same design and part as the original hence the reason why some folks had to replace them numerous times. Not a big deal to replace and about 1/2 hour labor if I recall. I had mine done at the dealer under warranty and only had to do it once. It is my understanding that BMW will warranty the fuel strip for 12 years from the date the bike went into service.

I checked and the list price on the fuel strip was $175 and about an hour labor. But was free under warranty. But not a big deal at all.
 
#19 ·
I would suggest a 2004 R1150RT twin spark, or jump to the R1200RT 2008/2009 Hexhead. Especially nice are the camheads 2010-2013, but they still command at least $8-10K in good shape.
 
#21 ·
I have the 2004 R1150RT with 140K miles; had a few final drive seals replaced (3, first 2 under warranty), last one has stayed fixed. No other issues; starter is getting a bit noisy and I'll eventually need to replace. I've used it for work commutes, plus 2-up trips along the US west coast and Nevada and Arizona. Good tour bike, yet also easy to handle in commute traffic including lane splitting. (ABS brakes are nice to have when needed, and a couple of times I needed them.)
I also had a 2015 R1200RT, now replaced by a 2018, love it too. I'm heading out from California to Ohio / Kentucky / South Carolina / ... and back next month on it. Tours just as nicely as the 1150. No issues so far on the 1200.
So, I agree with earlier posts -- the last couple of years of the 1150, and the more recent 1200's, both nice and relatively good on the maintenance front. If I were on a budget and looking for a good touring BMW, I wouldn't shy away from the late 1150's.
But I also have an F650CS (OK, my wife will point out that it is hers), and for my 30 mile commute, one up and no luggage, that is quite acceptable as well. Good gas consumption, light weight, low center of gravity.
 
#31 ·
Having had various twin spark oilheads I now find a well tuned single spark quite a nice bike with little surging. No expensive stick coils to worry about. My current oilhead fleet has 4 single sparks and one twin spark but there was a time when it was the other way around.

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#34 ·
Definitely go with the R1200 over the R1150
 
#35 ·
R1200RTs have an issue with the throttle body cams cracking. I replaced mine with the aluminum ones(not cheap) before I had a failure. Sure enough both were cracked. Also if doing your own maintenance, be careful with the sparkplug socket, make sure and use a thinwall socket. Plenty of info out there on the various forums. I love my 2009.


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#36 ·
I suppose this is all asked and answered. I'm on my 4th RT. I had a '99 1100 RT; a 2003 twin-plug 1150; a 2005 1200 Hex-head and my current bike, a 17 1200 LC.

Except for the '99, all these bikes were purchased new. I bought the '99 used...but in Spring of '99. You can look at the years to understand which ones I like the best and rode the longest.

I put 62K on the '99. The shocks were pretty poor. I got Ohlins for it...just great. It had surging issues, a seat that would put your boy parts to sleep. It was very hard to keep synched and smooth running. I got a new seat and windscreen; I put a fuel nanny on it; I found a little hole in the right fairing that lets you change the throttle body air screw while you are riding (don't try this at home). It's great for long interstate rides but idle is rough again when you slow down. The Amal throttle body bearings wear and then leak... It was a fun bike but a lot of work and full of little buggy little problems.

I finally got sick of fixing it. It needed throttle body rebuilding, so I traded it for the first twin-spark 1150 that came in to my dealer. It didn't surge! I got a fantastic deal on that bike. There are many issues with this bike that can't be tweaked or fixed or improved. The servo brakes on 1150s are not good. You can't stop these bikes smoothly. They are just too grabby. Also, brakes barely work when engine is off. That is surprisingly bad for pushing around a garage. Also, the foot brake is linked same as the handle, so they both do essentially the same thing. I like the option of rear brake only about 1 percent of the time. The extra 50cc's was not used for more power. Instead, they detuned it to lean-burn, which made it run hotter. One nice thing was that my windscreen, my seat and my Ohlins could be moved from the 1100 to the 1150. I got the Ohlins rebuilt and the guy used 1150 parts. I got charged a little extra, but it saved a ton. It was a pretty bike, but not my favorite to ride. I traded it as soon as the hex-heads came out.

The '05 1200 RT was a great bike for me. I had it 13 years and put 87,000 miles on it. I never had a fuel strip problem. It did everything better. It had cruise control...which is really a good thing on a sport touring bike. This sounds silly, but the bags can be latched closed without locking them. For me, this is huge. You can't do that on 1100 or 1150 bikes. It makes packing so much nicer if you're as absent-minded as me. Handling, power, brakes (new design servo brakes that aren't grabby and work with engine off). It was a graphite color with flat black shapes. I never liked the way it looked, although some other people did and told me now and then. I took a trip to CO with it and did some trail riding fully packed...went past the "Do not go past this point..." signs twice. First time, I got lucky and survived the U-turn without dumping it. Second time I went over on some large rocks at 1mph and banged up the side cases. When I got home with it, I took all the body parts off it and took them to a good body shop nearby. They sanded the side case covers perfectly and painted the bike a great black. While the panels were at the shop, I ordered clear side and rear lights for it. I put the bike back together and it was stunning...because it was all ONE color, not a bunch of broken up shapes. The lights really updated the look. '05 was, I think when Chris Bangel, the BMW designer who wrecked BMW car designs, got to do the RT. I don't know this to be true, but what's wrong with the hex-head's looks is also what's wrong with the Bangel cars....but if you paint the shiny stuff black you get black on flat black and that looks really good because the shape is really great. I did my own tune-ups with that bike. If you set the valves perfectly, you never have to adjust the throttle bodies or throttle cables. They just work and they don't change. I had the bike tuned by the dealer twice. The rest of the time, I just set valves and changed oil. Dealer always did the servo brake fluid..every 2 years is plenty because these bikes came with braided teflon brake lines. This engine is the first with little servos that keep the idle steady. They work great. These bikes, like all RT's, require a decent aftermarket seat and windscreen. I also like bar-backs on them (Suburban). I don't like foot peg extensions on these bikes. I put a front crash bar on mine. I think they look good and they save you from piercing the valve cover if the bike gets dumped.

1200 RT LC's are smoother, more powerful and have a ton of good electronic stuff. They don't overheat, have a built in fan that comes on for cooling in stopped traffic. I got all the goodies this time. I've never used the bike speakers but I have a bluetooth thing on my helmet. It takes some doing to figure all this out. I have a friend with one, so it was easier. Also check out bluetooth I miss the dlockable fairing boxes on all the earlier RTs. They are great for storing water and rags on the road. I could clean bugs off on interstate rides. I suppose I could carry a little bottle in one pocket and a rag in the other, but I just thought of that, so haven't tried it. Even the LC needs a new seat and windscreen if you ask me. I also got bar-baks and a front crash bar. I got Illium for both the bar-backs and crash bars and I think they're the best value out there. I have not connection with them. I've stuck with Sargent saddles. They're not perfect but you can move around on them. This is nice for cornering and for long rides when you need to get blood to all your parts. Sometimes I stand on pegs at speed to cool off or get blood moving in my legs. Sometimes I sit on the pillion seat reaching forward to the bars to stretch out hamstrings and back. Someone probably has written a book about exercises you can do on your bike while riding on interstates. Might make a good thread title?

Happy Trails!

:)
 
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