This is a pretty good overall process, but I do disagree with a couple of things.
1. Many engines will create enough vacuum to drain the overflow tank along with the engine if you leave the radiator cap in place when you remove the drain plug(s). This saves having to suck the old coolant out of the coolant recovery tank. Not sure if the RT is one of these engines, but I would try that first. If this doesnít happen, I would be a little suspicious of the radiator cap and generally not much vacuum is required to open the valve that letís coolant be pulled from the recovery tank back into the radiator.
2. I donít like the recommendation to run the engine with the radiator cap off. The main reason is that many engines have localized hot spots, generally in the head, where the coolant can locally boil even if the overall coolant temp is below 212 F at ambient pressure. Even lower temp if you are above sea level. Having the system pressurized raises the boiling point of the water and lessens the chance of nucleate boiling. And the hotter water will help facilitate a better flush.
3. The article suggests the cooling fans come on before the thermostat opens. If this happens, you have either a bad thermostat or a bad temp sensor for the cooling fans. The t-stat should open 20 - 40 degrees before the fans come on.
Given that the water level will drop the first thermal cycle or two, I do not let my bikes idle too long after the initial fill. I usually feel the radiator hose and as soon as it gets warm indicating that the t-stat has opened, I shut the bike off, let it cool, and then remove the cap and top up the water. Usually, only a cycle or two is required to get it full enough that it will pull makeup water from the coolant recovery tank, which you remembered to fill with distilled water before starting the flush, right?