Yes. I installed a set of D4s and the CanSmart last weekend on my '19 R1250RT with 800 miles on it. Worked perfectly on the first try. Even programmed with no problems using a Microsoft Surface tablet (not the pro, but the old cheap one). They strobe with the horn and flash to pass and turn off with the turn signals, so full CANBUS integration seems to be working.
I have to admit I"m totally confused by this:
I can change the intensity setting via and wonderwheel so some elements of the Canbus integration is working but the lights simply wont turn on.
I can change the intensity with the wonderwheel and see the results in the software, not the lights themselves
Latest firmware applied, if it works on your 1250 it looks like I have a problem then. I seem to be very unlucky with the CANsmart this will be the third unit that has broken.
Auxiliary Lights On/Off
Press the turn signal cancel button for three seconds to turn on/off light set #1, or pulse three times fast to turn on/off light set #2.
Yeah, I did that one time just messing with the turn signal because I was bored while riding (not many fun curvy roads in North Dakota). Woah! They were working this morning but now they're dead! WTF!
Contacted Twisted Throttle, they talked me through it. User error.
Based on what you've said, either the CANSmart isn't passing voltage or the pods are dead (or there is a break in a wire in between). I can think of a few quick tests that would help with the call to Twisted Throttle.
Take a voltmeter or test light and see if there is +12V at the plug coming from the CANSmart. If yes, then this is either a wiring problem or dead pods, which you can determine via test #2.
If you have a battery and some jumpers handy, apply 12V to each pod and see if they light. If so, then this is a wiring or CANSmart problem.
If you have voltage at the CANSmart connector and the pods work, there is a bad connection in between. Replacing the lead from the light kit shouldn't be that hard.
This would all be much easier if you have access to a PowerProbe (https://www.powerprobe.com/). You could test the lines or apply voltage to the lamps at each connector within a minute or two. Just be aware that on the 3-wire connector, there is +12V, ground, and then a modulated dimming signal, so make sure you are measuring the +12V.
I disconnected the pods and used a multimeter to measure any voltage coming out of the CANsmart unit and get 0V on the primary and secondary light circuits and nothing on the accessory circuits. The softwares own diagnostics say 0V also.
I think it is still a good idea to apply 12V to test the pods so I will do that tomorrow thanks
Just to feed back, contacted Denali support who have told me from the symptoms I have the lighting circuit itself has failed and I am to exchange the unit under warranty.
I contacted the supplier R&G-Racing who have sent me out a replacement, I have to say their service is spectacular.
I guess I am just very unlucky to have 2 CANSmart units fail
Just an update on this, unbelievably the same thing happened again with the third replacement CanSmart unit, lights simply went off and refused to come back on.
This time when I contacted Denali directly they advised me to check the connections to the DR1's for corrosion, clean and apply dielectric grease. This did the trick and the lights now work (this must have been the problem all along, two sets of lights and three CanSmart units later).
So for anyone experiencing this issue just simply clean and protect the connections. My advice if you are thinking about fitting this system is to apply dielectric grease to all connections from the start.
I apply dielectric grease to all electrical connectors that I take apart on my cars and motorcycles. It can’t hurt and it might help. Just don’t put in so much that you make a hydraulic lock in a sealed connector or you can have trouble connecting them or you can blow out the weather seals if you force the parts together.
Thanks for the update on this. Are you saying that there was corrosion using the 3-pin sockets on the cables with the CanSmart? I thought those are sealed automotive-grade connectors. Or are yours wired in with other hardware?
Yes thats exactly the case, original Denali connectors had some light corrosion on them, enough I guess to break contact.
Like yourself I thought these are sealed connectors but obviously not, perhaps their position in relation to the front wheel and weather has made them fail
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
BMW Luxury Touring Community
894.3K posts
44.8K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to BMW Luxury Touring motorcycle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, reviews, and more!