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post #51 of 89 Old Aug 30th, 2018, 1:59 am
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Re: H7 LED solution?

In my case with a projector, not as critical, and that looks like a cheaper design than what I have been using.


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post #52 of 89 Old Aug 30th, 2018, 1:41 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hammick View Post
Alexol see post 31 here: https://www.bmwlt.com/forums/rt-seri...-low-beam.html

My review of the ADVmonster H1 high beam bulbs. They also have an H7 of similar design: H7 Plus LED Headlight - ADVmonster
Has anyone tried to fit these in a wethead? How did the fitment and light projection turn out? These also seem to be Philips Luxeon ZES LEDs.

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post #53 of 89 Old Aug 30th, 2018, 2:41 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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Has anyone tried to fit these in a wethead? How did the fitment and light projection turn out? These also seem to be Philips Luxeon ZES LEDs.
Read my review. I have the Cyclops H7 in my low beam. Not their latest revision but last years model. It works very well but unfortunately causes intermittent lamp failure errors.

Cyclops sent me their resistor. It seems to fix the lamp failure errors but I am not at all comfortable with how hot it gets. I saw as high as 238 degrees Fahrenheit and that was with the resistor outside the headlamp assembly. I have to think it could get a lot hotter once put inside.

I used two different thermometers to test. Cyclops told me they usually don't see temps above 160 degrees Fahrenheit. They said I would be fine installing it and it won't melt anything but I doubt they would buy me a new headlamp assembly if they are wrong.

I did touch a piece of packing foam to the resistor and it melted the foam immediately. No way I'm putting that thing in my bike.

I think I am going to try the ADVmonster H7 plus bulb. Their H1 Plus high beam bulbs are working out nicely so why not other than the nightmare of another low beam swap.

I'll report back.

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post #54 of 89 Old Aug 30th, 2018, 4:36 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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Originally Posted by hammick View Post
... I think I am going to try the ADVmonster H7 plus bulb. Their H1 Plus high beam bulbs are working out nicely so why not other than the nightmare of another low beam swap.

I'll report back.
There are definitely people interested in hearing about your experience when you do try it!


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post #55 of 89 Old Aug 30th, 2018, 4:47 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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There are definitely people interested in hearing about your experience when you do try it!
Yes, that is what I meant.

Hammick,

I did read your post. I would be interested on your report after you install the ADVmonster H7 LEDs with respect to fitment, intensity, errors. Thanks!

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post #56 of 89 Old Aug 30th, 2018, 7:48 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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Originally Posted by 1200RT2015 View Post
Yes, that is what I meant.

Hammick,

I did read your post. I would be interested on your report after you install the ADVmonster H7 LEDs with respect to fitment, intensity, errors. Thanks!
After further research I'm not sure the ADVmonster H7 led is going to cure my low beam failure errors. The spec on them is 1.8 amps and the spec on the Cyclops H7 is 30 watts. So if the specs are accurate the Cyclops is drawing more power than the ADVmonster.

I very happy with the Cyclops H7 except for the errors. The stock H7 bulb is 55 watts. I'm going to source a smaller resistor that won't get as hot or maybe even get a 20 watt halogen bulb and replace the resistor Cyclops sent me with the bulb. Need to find something that won't get hotter than 150 degrees.

I used this exact same Cyclops H7 bulb in a '16 GS that didn't have the factory led headlight. Same errors. The Water Cooled canbus is expecting to see more than a 30 watt draw. Pretty simple. Problem is the vendors haven't figured it out because the majority of the GSW GSAW bikes have the factory led and the RTW is such a pain in the ass most people aren't attempting it.

Resistor experts feel free to chime in.

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post #57 of 89 Old Aug 30th, 2018, 8:05 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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Originally Posted by Dann323 View Post
This looks like a simple solution for H7 LED upgrade

Has anyone tried them?

They even have a cover to replace the BMW one and are Can-bus compatible

POWER LED - Pure white
After going through low beam lamp errors on a '16 GS and now my '18 RT using 30 watt led bulbs I have realized that Canbus compatible means compatible with the Canbus on the Hexhead and Camhead bikes. I've yet to see anyone do a low beam on a Watercooled R1200 bike without low beam errors. The resistor that Cyclops sends out gets way too hot.

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post #58 of 89 Old Aug 30th, 2018, 10:27 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

Well I got frustrated and did what I should have done days ago. Drilled a small hole in the low beam cap, de-pinned the resistor harness and installed the resistor on the metal frame plate just above the low beam cap. Worked out really well. Put some clear silicone on the inside and outside of the cap where the four wires went through. Very clean install. Cannot see the resistor or any of the wiring. I used Gorilla heavy duty mounting tape. It has a continuous temp rating of 170 degrees and a peak temp rating of 300 degrees. I think with the bike moving the resistor should stay sub 170 degrees

In my opinion this is the only safe way to install the resistor. Cyclops will tell you 238 degree temps are nothing to worry about. That temp was with the resistor hanging in air. I'm positive it would have melted stuff if I put it inside.

Now a smaller 5 watt resistor or 5 watt halogen bulb might do the trick but this low beam is way to hard to access to be testing out a bunch of resistors. Somebody younger can forge that path.

I'm done with the bike's lights and can now move on to install my ADVmonster 55s!


ps: if I see a lamp failure I'm going to push this thing off a cliff

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post #59 of 89 Old Aug 31st, 2018, 5:00 am
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Re: H7 LED solution?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hammick View Post
After going through low beam lamp errors on a '16 GS and now my '18 RT using 30 watt led bulbs I have realized that Canbus compatible means compatible with the Canbus on the Hexhead and Camhead bikes. I've yet to see anyone do a low beam on a Watercooled R1200 bike without low beam errors. The resistor that Cyclops sends out gets way too hot.
I have NEVER had a CanBus error flag up with my LED headlight setup. I am using a different headlight bulb to you. Mine are the braided cooling type. So really you pay your money and take your choice.
The braiding handles the heat easily and is contained WITHIN the headlight housing and the rear sealing cap fits as standard.

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post #60 of 89 Old Aug 31st, 2018, 8:16 am
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Re: H7 LED solution?

I think Bandytales and I are using the same LED low beam bulb.

No CanBus errors for me.

I tried several bulbs looking for one without CanBus errors and one that would not drop output after running for a while and getting hot.

LED bulbs that werk


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post #61 of 89 Old Aug 31st, 2018, 9:14 am
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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Originally Posted by hammick View Post
Read my review. I have the Cyclops H7 in my low beam. Not their latest revision but last years model. It works very well but unfortunately causes intermittent lamp failure errors.

Cyclops sent me their resistor. It seems to fix the lamp failure errors but I am not at all comfortable with how hot it gets. I saw as high as 238 degrees Fahrenheit and that was with the resistor outside the headlamp assembly. I have to think it could get a lot hotter once put inside.

I used two different thermometers to test. Cyclops told me they usually don't see temps above 160 degrees Fahrenheit. They said I would be fine installing it and it won't melt anything but I doubt they would buy me a new headlamp assembly if they are wrong.

I did touch a piece of packing foam to the resistor and it melted the foam immediately. No way I'm putting that thing in my bike.

I think I am going to try the ADVmonster H7 plus bulb. Their H1 Plus high beam bulbs are working out nicely so why not other than the nightmare of another low beam swap.

I'll report back.
I didn't want to say anything negative about the Cyclop, since you had it installed already, but your finding fits what I had read elsewhere. The copper braid design is the ones that I would have used, or will use. I haven't read any negatives on those bulbs. The ones that you have to replace the H1 high-beams are very nicely constructed, but with the price to go with it, even though I don't consider them to be overly expensive, OTOH, you can find similar bulbs, in both H7 and H1 configurations, on eBay for about $26 a pair! For that little money, it might be worth playing with!

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post #62 of 89 Old Aug 31st, 2018, 11:42 am
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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I didn't want to say anything negative about the Cyclop, since you had it installed already, but your finding fits what I had read elsewhere. The copper braid design is the ones that I would have used, or will use. I haven't read any negatives on those bulbs. The ones that you have to replace the H1 high-beams are very nicely constructed, but with the price to go with it, even though I don't consider them to be overly expensive, OTOH, you can find similar bulbs, in both H7 and H1 configurations, on eBay for about $26 a pair! For that little money, it might be worth playing with!
Thanks Pad. Cyclops is very responsive and easy to speak with a tech even if some of what they told me probably isn't accurate. After telling them that their resistor went as high as 238 degrees I hope they do further testing before somebody melts their housing.

I got frustrated last night and decided to mount the resistor outside the assembly. There is a nice area of frame just above the low beam cap. I de-pinned the resistor harness and drilled a small hole in the cap. Just big enough for the four wires to go through tight. Put clean silicone on inside and outside of cap and put it back together. I'm very pleased with the outcome. The resistor will now be in the air stream and when it heats up at stop lights the bike's frame will act a a big heat sink (I think assuming the heat goes through the double sided mounting tape).

I used Gorilla Heavy Duty mounting tape. It's rated for continuous 170 degrees and peak of 300 degrees. If it doesn't hold, I'll get some of the high temp stuff.

I'm going to look for a pair of the H7 leds on Ebay for some backup bulbs.

Pad any chance you have a link to the bulbs you purchased since we know those work?

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post #63 of 89 Old Aug 31st, 2018, 11:59 am
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Re: H7 LED solution?

Hammick, you couldn't have posted a day earlier!! :-)

I just had a low beam go out on my RT. First bulb lasted to 12k. Next to 18k. The latest blew at 22k. I'm very careful and don't touch the bulb. I'm one of the lucky few that can replace the bulb in less than 5 minutes. I'm using some Volsa H7's at the moment. A bit more yellow than the Sylvania's I had before.

Anyway, I ordered the ADVMonsters yesterday. They've already shipped. I bought 2 since the wife rides an RT. So I'll start with mine first and see if I get any errors. I currently have no intentions of replacing the highs since I use them seldom. Mostly looking for a whiter light and not replacing every 4-5k.

I'll let everyone know my results. Worst case, my son's CBR600RR gets a pair of H7 LED's. No CANBUS there!
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post #64 of 89 Old Aug 31st, 2018, 12:04 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hammick View Post
The resistor will now be in the air stream and when it heats up at stop lights the bike's frame will act a a big heat sink (I think assuming the heat goes through the double sided mounting tape).

I used Gorilla Heavy Duty mounting tape. It's rated for continuous 170 degrees and peak of 300 degrees. If it doesn't hold, I'll get some of the high temp stuff.

.
Hi Hammick. I'd be very surprised if the Gorilla double sided tape is going to be your friend. It will act more as a barrier. Ideally you need to get that resistor onto a good heat-sink with some heat-sink compound between the 2 parts.It sounds like that resistor is working hard, and you are not helping it with the tape. You can get some thermal adhesive (silver loaded epoxy springs to mind). But anyway, I suggest you consider a better way than the double sided tape.

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post #65 of 89 Old Aug 31st, 2018, 12:11 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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Hammick, you couldn't have posted a day earlier!! :-)

I just had a low beam go out on my RT. First bulb lasted to 12k. Next to 18k. The latest blew at 22k. I'm very careful and don't touch the bulb. I'm one of the lucky few that can replace the bulb in less than 5 minutes. I'm using some Volsa H7's at the moment. A bit more yellow than the Sylvania's I had before.

Anyway, I ordered the ADVMonsters yesterday. They've already shipped. I bought 2 since the wife rides an RT. So I'll start with mine first and see if I get any errors. I currently have no intentions of replacing the highs since I use them seldom. Mostly looking for a whiter light and not replacing every 4-5k.

I'll let everyone know my results. Worst case, my son's CBR600RR gets a pair of H7 LED's. No CANBUS there!
Please let us know how the ADVmonster H7 Plus bulb works. To me it's worth paying the extra money to get a clean install and no canbus errors. I think you will be the first to try these in a Wethead. John said he has positive feedback on these bulbs for the Hexhead and Camheads but nothing yet on the Wethead.

A little installation advice I got from Cyclops. Put a tiny bead of clear silicone on the adapter (install the adapter removed from the light). Let the silicone set up for about ten minutes before you set the springs. This will greatly reduce the chance of you dropping the adapter into the low beam assembly. If you drop it in there you will have to pull the entire headlight assembly to get it out.

Put the driver box and wires in first and then put the bulb in. Spread out the heat sinks, install the cap and you are done.

There should be plenty of room since the Cyclops with the fan fits.

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post #66 of 89 Old Aug 31st, 2018, 12:18 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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Hi Hammick. I'd be very surprised if the Gorilla double sided tape is going to be your friend. It will act more as a barrier. Ideally you need to get that resistor onto a good heat-sink with some heat-sink compound between the 2 parts.It sounds like that resistor is working hard, and you are not helping it with the tape. You can get some thermal adhesive (silver loaded epoxy springs to mind). But anyway, I suggest you consider a better way than the double sided tape.
Thanks. I will source some thermal adhesive. See the attached photo of the resistor. Don't I already have a heatsink surrounding the resistor?
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post #67 of 89 Old Aug 31st, 2018, 12:25 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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Hi Hammick. I'd be very surprised if the Gorilla double sided tape is going to be your friend. It will act more as a barrier. Ideally you need to get that resistor onto a good heat-sink with some heat-sink compound between the 2 parts.It sounds like that resistor is working hard, and you are not helping it with the tape. You can get some thermal adhesive (silver loaded epoxy springs to mind). But anyway, I suggest you consider a better way than the double sided tape.
Bandy what do you think of this tape?

VLR RESISTOR HIGH TEMP MOUNTING TAPE - Tapes - Accessories - Shop Products

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post #68 of 89 Old Aug 31st, 2018, 2:28 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

Saw these on Amazon, I'm not sure if they would do the job of removing the canbus errors...

Calais Resistor warning Canceller Decoder:
https://www.amazon.com/Calais-Resist...esistor+H7+LED


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post #69 of 89 Old Aug 31st, 2018, 3:41 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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A little installation advice I got from Cyclops. Put a tiny bead of clear silicone on the adapter (install the adapter removed from the light). Let the silicone set up for about ten minutes before you set the springs. This will greatly reduce the chance of you dropping the adapter into the low beam assembly. If you drop it in there you will have to pull the entire headlight assembly to get it out..
Thanks for the tip on the adapter. I wouldn't have thought of that, until it was too late.

I'm an amateur gynecologist. I have small hands. I plan on tackling this job without pulling the HL assembly out. I'm good at working blind too. I guess I'll find out probably next weekend. I'll definitely update this thread on the results. Although I will wait awhile to see if I have any errors before attempting the wife's RT.
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post #70 of 89 Old Aug 31st, 2018, 3:43 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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......

I'm going to look for a pair of the H7 leds on Ebay for some backup bulbs.

Pad any chance you have a link to the bulbs you purchased since we know those work?
Sorry, but I haven't bought any yet. It's going to be a winter project for me!


Perhaps Andy (bandytales) can post it. He and realshelby are the two here that had made the sucessful installation. realshelby also tried the Cyclop, and that had died on him. Read the thread that he'd posted in the other forum. I think that he had posted the link earlier.

Edit: Here's the link that realshelby had posted http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthread...=973745&page=1

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post #71 of 89 Old Aug 31st, 2018, 4:35 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

I think these are the lights Bandytales and Realshelby are using with great success:

https://www.amazon.com/CAR-ROVER-Hea...s=car+rover+h7
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post #72 of 89 Old Sep 5th, 2018, 4:49 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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Hammick,

I agree with the advice from Bandy. You need a proper conduction assistance from the resistor to the heatsink. Without proper heat sink compound the heatsink could be pretty much useless. In my opinion the tape you have asked about is not going to help you at all. In fact it says it is heat resistant which is opposite of what you need. This tape is to be used for mounting things that will get hot and, as specified, will not be affected by the heat...whereas you need real good conduction...

What you need is heatsink compound. Also make sure that the two surfaces mate well and there is no air gap. Air is a bad conductor of heat (an insulator of sorts) and your enemy in this application. I will try and find a heatsink compound and post a link for you...check these out...

https://www.amazon.com/MX-4-Compound.../dp/B0795DP124

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...pound&_sacat=0

FYI, these heatsink compounds (thermal pastes) are also used in PCs to attach the heatsink on the CPUs etc.

Hope this helps. Sorry if I am giving more information than you need and if you are already familiar with these. Cheers.

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post #73 of 89 Old Sep 6th, 2018, 9:26 am
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Re: H7 LED solution?

Just a thought......why go to all the trouble of trying to cool that resister? Just hang it somewhere so that the heat doesn't harm anything and be done with it!
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post #74 of 89 Old Sep 6th, 2018, 10:20 am
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Re: H7 LED solution?

Or just buy an LED bulb that does not require one!


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post #75 of 89 Old Sep 6th, 2018, 10:57 am
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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Or just buy an LED bulb that does not require one!
+1

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Re: H7 LED solution?

I think I'm ready to give a preliminary report on the ADV Monster H7 Plus LED headlights.
H7 Plus LED Headlight - ADVmonster

They are well built like previously mentioned. My pair arrived yesterday. Like I stated earlier, I decided to give it a try without removing the whole headlight assembly. I first had to figure out which was the positive lead. I was guessing I'd need to leave the halogen bulb in so the computer wouldn't shut off the HL thinking there was a bulb out. With the wires coming from the throttle side of the assembly, the top wire ended up being the hot lead. Then I had to let the halogen bulb cool down before I could remove it.

The new LED came in with the adapter ring I was going to need to secure with the wire clips first. I took a chunk of the bubble wrap and rolled it into a cigar. I pushed that into the adapter ring. So it was a snug fit. Then I could hold onto the adapter ring without worrying about dropping it into the headlight assembly. I had to carefully get the wire spring carefully past the bubble wrap. But then I was able to secure the spring clips down easily. Then I pulled out the bubble wrap cigar.

Next I plugged in the little LED driver box and dropped that into the bottom of the hole, leaving the one lead wrapped around to the top of the hole. I then inserted the LED light into the adapter and twist locked that in. I then plugged it into the driver box. That has a screw type ring to secure that connection. I tucked that into the hole. I was then able to spread the braids a little, and tuck them into hole. I had no issue putting the cap on.

I did a test firing up of the bike. LED turned on normally. No light out errors!

Later in the evening, I took the bike out for a 10 minute ride. I did the flash to pass, switched to highs and back to low. No CANBUS errors. I rode to work this morning, make a stop off at an office. So I've had at least 5 different cold starts of the bike. No errors as of yet.

As to the brightness, it appears brighter to me. But this is purely looking at it in the day time. This weekend, I plan on pulling the wife's RT out of the shop and put it on the center stand. Then do the same with mine. Have both pointed at my garage door and do a comparison. I'll probably do this at dusk and try to get a good picture taken to compare. That way I can post the results for everyone to see.

Color-wise, I'm really happy. It matches beautifully to the LED halo's and to my Clearwater Darla's.

Currently, I have no intentions of putting LED's in the high beam position. I have 2 of those, plus the 2 Darla's. So loss of high beam won't bother me. And I really don't ride at night all that much with high beams on, so I don't care if they don't color match. Maybe if someone else has good results with this low beam and a set of LED high beams, I may switch. But for now, I'm happy with they way it is. If all continues to goes well, I'll swap the wife's bulb out in 2 weeks. She has never had her's replaced yet.
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post #77 of 89 Old Sep 6th, 2018, 12:36 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

I should add, with my small hands, and even with the volt meter testing, I was done in 30 minutes or so.
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post #78 of 89 Old Dec 7th, 2018, 6:49 am
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So, 92merc, did you ever get the photos of the two bikes side by side with lights on the door? Thanks, as I'm seriously looking at upgrading lighting on my 18 RTW.

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post #79 of 89 Old Dec 7th, 2018, 8:25 am
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Re: H7 LED solution?

One thing to be wary about is the LED lights dropping output. I discovered this when experimenting on my RT. They look just the same, white color. Unlike an incandescent that goes more yellow when voltage drops, LED's don't change color apparently. Or very little.

But take a ride at night and you WILL know when they roll back output to protect themselves! Might take 1/2 hour or so. The $128 bulb I ordered from Europe, which was guaranteed to be a perfect, no Canbus issue, fit in the new RT......would drop output enough that it was no brighter than a flashlight! They did take it back...after some arm twisting....


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post #80 of 89 Old Dec 7th, 2018, 9:37 am
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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Originally Posted by motorhead1977 View Post
So, 92merc, did you ever get the photos of the two bikes side by side with lights on the door? Thanks, as I'm seriously looking at upgrading lighting on my 18 RTW.
I did actually. Forgot to post it. Sorry about that.

I was actually surprised by seeing the 2 side by side. The bike on the left is the wife's 2017 RT with factory original bulb. Mine is on the right with the ADV bulb. When shining on the white garage door, it does appear that the halogen is brighter. But when going down the road, the wife says she can see my light better than her own on the actual road, when we're riding side by side. My guess is there is some sort of perception deal going on where the whiter light is perceived as being brighter than the yellow.

I did put some towels over my Darla's for that picture. What I can tell you is that once I'm actually going down the road with the Darla's combined white light pattern, the road does seem lit up better than it did with the 3 different halogen's I've used. Not having that yellow in the middle and being white all the way across the road just appears to my eyes to be a better well lit pattern.

Without having some way to measure actual lumens, I can't really make a scientific claim that the new bulbs are actually brighter. All I can say is to my eyes, and my wife's eyes, the new LED's are an improvement. And I've never seen any dip in the output. I've driven my bike an hour, came home, left the bike running. Then pulled the cap off and put my hand on the braids. The braids were only luke to moderately warm. I could leave my hand on them without burning. Cooler than my morning coffee for sure.

So for me, I'm happy with them. Color has been evened out. I just hope they stay reliable so I won't have to be swapping any more bulbs. With "roughly" equal light to a halogen, I'm leaving them. The Darla's were the best improvement to ADD light over stock. I'm betting in another 5 years, LED's will be even better. If mine make it that long, I'll swap them out to what ever is newer tech.
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post #81 of 89 Old Dec 7th, 2018, 9:59 am
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Re: H7 LED solution?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 92merc View Post
I did actually. Forgot to post it. Sorry about that.

I was actually surprised by seeing the 2 side by side. The bike on the left is the wife's 2017 RT with factory original bulb. Mine is on the right with the ADV bulb. When shining on the white garage door, it does appear that the halogen is brighter. But when going down the road, the wife says she can see my light better than her own on the actual road, when we're riding side by side. My guess is there is some sort of perception deal going on where the whiter light is perceived as being brighter than the yellow.

I did put some towels over my Darla's for that picture. What I can tell you is that once I'm actually going down the road with the Darla's combined white light pattern, the road does seem lit up better than it did with the 3 different halogen's I've used. Not having that yellow in the middle and being white all the way across the road just appears to my eyes to be a better well lit pattern.

Without having some way to measure actual lumens, I can't really make a scientific claim that the new bulbs are actually brighter. All I can say is to my eyes, and my wife's eyes, the new LED's are an improvement. And I've never seen any dip in the output. I've driven my bike an hour, came home, left the bike running. Then pulled the cap off and put my hand on the braids. The braids were only luke to moderately warm. I could leave my hand on them without burning. Cooler than my morning coffee for sure.

So for me, I'm happy with them. Color has been evened out. I just hope they stay reliable so I won't have to be swapping any more bulbs. With "roughly" equal light to a halogen, I'm leaving them. The Darla's were the best improvement to ADD light over stock. I'm betting in another 5 years, LED's will be even better. If mine make it that long, I'll swap them out to what ever is newer tech.
Without a doubt, the one on the right is a whiter light and, much to my surprise has a better defined 'cut-off'.

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post #82 of 89 Old Dec 7th, 2018, 10:11 am
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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Without a doubt, the one on the right is a whiter light and, much to my surprise has a better defined 'cut-off'.
I was surprised by the cut off as well. I think it has to do with the LED being a 2 sided device. But when the light is on the road, I can't tell. Again probably due to the Darla's. One is picking up where the other left off.
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post #83 of 89 Old Dec 7th, 2018, 10:16 am
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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I was surprised by the cut off as well. I think it has to do with the LED being a 2 sided device. But when the light is on the road, I can't tell. Again probably due to the Darla's. One is picking up where the other left off.

Either way, its another endorsement for LED's.

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post #84 of 89 Old Dec 7th, 2018, 1:48 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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Originally Posted by realshelby View Post
One thing to be wary about is the LED lights dropping output. I discovered this when experimenting on my RT. They look just the same, white color. Unlike an incandescent that goes more yellow when voltage drops, LED's don't change color apparently. Or very little.

But take a ride at night and you WILL know when they roll back output to protect themselves! Might take 1/2 hour or so. The $128 bulb I ordered from Europe, which was guaranteed to be a perfect, no Canbus issue, fit in the new RT......would drop output enough that it was no brighter than a flashlight! They did take it back...after some arm twisting....
Do you remember what brand or merchant that was?

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post #85 of 89 Old Dec 7th, 2018, 2:08 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

I think it was a UK vendor, but don't remember beyond that. It may be in the link that someone has posted earlier in this thread that I made on another BMW site.


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post #86 of 89 Old Dec 7th, 2018, 7:11 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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What the led will do is make your radio usless
Almost had it there...the RADIO makes the RADIO useless!

BMW audio is horrible, but I digress...I do not want to distract from the OP!

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post #87 of 89 Old May 28th, 2019, 11:41 am
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Re: H7 LED solution?

Does the LED driver box bounce around inside the headlight unit on bumpy roads or anything?

I'm thinking of doing this conversion and was wondering if this driver box would benefit from some cushioning on it... Since I haven't done the conversion yet, I don't know how much room in in there relative to the size of the driver box (so maybe its so tight that the box can't bounce around).


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post #88 of 89 Old May 28th, 2019, 12:47 pm
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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Originally Posted by alegerlotz View Post
Does the LED driver box bounce around inside the headlight unit on bumpy roads or anything?

I'm thinking of doing this conversion and was wondering if this driver box would benefit from some cushioning on it... Since I haven't done the conversion yet, I don't know how much room in in there relative to the size of the driver box (so maybe its so tight that the box can't bounce around).
When I installed mine, I had to tuck the driver box in first. Then the wires. Then lastly goes in the braided metal. Once that is all tucked in, there isn't much room for any of that to bounce around in there. It's a tight fit.

On the other hand, I'm partially deaf. So I may not hear it anyway. But the wife hasn't complained about any new noises.
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post #89 of 89 Old May 29th, 2019, 4:36 am
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Re: H7 LED solution?

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What the led will do is make your radio usless

Wow, this was post #4 and I totally missed it.
I can assure you that the LED's I have on my bike have had zero effect on the radio. I don't know if you are talking about LED lamps with fans on. maybe they need som sort of suppressor, but my lamps (which use braid as a heat-sink) do not give rise to any issues.

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