When I bought my new RT my salesman said here take this bottle of final drive oil and change it after you get home. I had it changed for the 600 mile service ( really 400 miles ) and then I rode 1200+ miles home. So now I have around 1800 miles and plan to ride maybe 2000 miles this weekend.
I have ordered the DVD service manual but I don't want to wait for it and I want to be sure I am draining from the correct plug and adding in the correct plug.
You are correct - the fluid will be jet black when drained and some 'hair' on the magnet - at the 3000 - 5000 mile mark the fluid will begin to clear - I believe the Castrol SAF-XO is still recommended at 180ml on the refill capacity.
No need to remove the rear wheel - very easy to change the fluid.
Others have answered your specific question, BUT I hope that you do know that if you had the 600 miles service done (where they were supposed to have changed the FD oil along with other things), you don't need to change the FD oil again until 12,000 miles! Other than that, when you do change the oil, make sure that you measure out 180 ml, which is the proper amount to use. Much more could result in blown out shaft seal, or at least it did in the older models RT.
The final drive oil was changed at the 600 mile service but for some reason my salesman ( big dog IBR rider on a GS ) told me to change it and gave me a bottle for free. If it is that easy I will probably change it. I always changed the final drive oil on my gold wing when ever I changed the oil, around 8,000 to 10,000 miles.
I guess I should reach out and ask why he told me to change it.
I am sure that you know that there are no harms done in changing the FD oil more often than needed, but it will be interesting to hear what your guy has to say!
BTW, one other thing that I had been meaning to warn you about, with regards to the new RTs. DO be very careful when you get to taking off the main side panels! They are held to the top-rear by very flimsy plastic tabs that will break if you are a little rough. Many people here have broken those tabs. Look in your manual as to how BMW suggests that you remove these two panels. This YouTube Video will give you previews of what it takes to get all the tupperwares off:
Be careful selecting your drain plug removal tool. It is Torx and there is a near size that is incorrect. It seals with an O-ring so heavy seating torque is not needed. I suggest since you're starting down the good road of self maintenance, get the DVD from the dealer. Can't go wrong there with information. The drain oil at 5000 miles will be black just like at 600 miles. Changing too often is better than not often enough. Here is a link to BMW official maintenance schedules: A&S BMW Motorcycles ::: BMW Motorcycle Service and Maintenance Schedules
Thanks for the that Torx bit heads up. I nearly used the smaller size, then remembered this post and grabbed the next size up which was the correct size.
Changed mine as an end of season maint before putting away for the winter. With only 4,500 miles I know it is early, but the bike will be 3 years old next spring when I get it back out of storage. It was dark gray but definitely not black.
One question I had was capacity (2016 RT). Somewhere I read 150ml but most places say 180ml. I measured what was drained out and it was 150ml. I did fill with 180 as it is vented and I guess I would rather be slightly over than under.
Also-BMW sure gets a pretty penny for this stuff. $36 after tax for 1 qt-WOW. Luckily I can get several changes out of it. But with changing only once a year, this oil may die of old age :rotf:
Just change it. The dealer probably just wants to be sure you've gotten all the contamination out since you were riding it a fair distance right from the start. Some folk's will only ride the distance you did going home, in an entire year. I've replaced my FD fluid 2-4 times a ride season, since new. Like yourself, I am on the road a lot, so it gets everything done, every time I need to pull a cover. A FULL service can be done in about 1.5 hours, so FD fluid change, adds nothing... Just do it.
PS, you don't need to pamper the RT, it won't break. That it just like you did your wing
I see the newer RT is very easy to change the FD oil. Hell I would change the FD oil if I was bored with nothing to do. It looks real easy compared to my 2012.
Yup, I bought it awhile back. Its a paint mix bottle or something like that. I have the process down to minimal hassle. Wheel stays on the bike. 180 ml in the bottle and down the fill port. I use a bit with a 1/4" ratchet wrench. Works great. I also bought a dimple brand magnetic drain plug. The magnet is stronger than OEM.
Did my run in oil changes today. Man the FD oil was black, black black, as per normal for the first change. I did notice that the new filter from Beemer Boneyard was a little larger than the original, but it fit just fine and doesn't leak.
Just did the 600 mile service on my new RT and, as everybody has mentioned, the oil in the rear drive was black. Engine/tranny oil looked good, but wondering what would make the oil in the FD so black. The oil I used (Mobil 1 synthetic 75/90) was clear like regular engine oil, so wondering what BMW uses on the new bikes shipped from he factory.
Pretty sue they use an additive which makes it very dark and gives it that nasty smell. Your clear stuff will also come out black because not all of the additive is removed with the first change.
beemerboneyard bottle looks like a great tool, but it looks like 10ml might remain after trying to fill with this bottle......or is the oil flow better than I imagine?
beemerboneyard bottle looks like a great tool, but it looks like 10ml might remain after trying to fill with this bottle......or is the oil flow better than I imagine?
"This bottle is perfect for refilling the hard to fill final drive on R1200 and K1200/1300 models. Has an angled tip and is ..."
Not to worry if you add a little more to make up for what stays in the bottle. BTW the 180ml was reduced from the 210ml supposedly because BMW switched from a vented to non vented final drive and the pressure build up was pushing the gear oil past the seals. BMW then went back to a vented drive. So if you add 180ml or so it's not going to do any harm since the final drive is vented. Remember the final drives were originally setup for 210ml of oil. I'm not suggesting to go back to 210ml by any means. No harm will be done if you add a little more to make up for residual.
The photo below is how much oil I drained from the final drive after the dealer performed the 600 mile break in service. The idiot technician filled the final drive to the full level of the fill port. I rode the bike with this much gear oil until the I did the next service myself at 12,000 miles. I measured approximately 265ml of oil.
What saved me was the vented final drive. So even if I added 190ml or 210ml it probably won't do any harm as long as the vent does its job.
The photo below is how much oil I drained from the final drive after the dealer performed the 600 mile break in service. The idiot technician filled the final drive to the full level of the fill port. I rode the bike with this much gear oil until the I did the next service myself at 12,000 miles. I measured approximately 265ml of oil.
What saved me was the vented final drive. So even if I added 190ml or 210ml it probably won't do any harm as long as the vent does its job.
Ti - That looks remarkably like the Pyrex liquid measure that resides in my kitchen. Does your SO know you borrowed?
All kidding aside (and it's entirely a personal decision), I've found through very painful experience that glass vessels really don't belong in my shop. I have a plastic measuring dohickey that I got years ago, don't recall where, seems to be quite accurate.
On one of the few times I've had work done at the dealer on mine the final drive was likewise overfilled. Seems to me I got 250 ml or so out of it.
180 ml is correct. It is so easy to mess that Torx selection up. Changing that final drive oil every couple of years, your bottle will be like a vintage wine. :wink:
Besides the 180 ml being the correct volume, next time when you have used up all of the oil, you should look to using the Land Rover differential oil (Part # LRN 7591), which has the same specifications that BMW calls out for our bike, and probably made by the same oil company (Castrol), but can be found for a lot cheaper than the BMW brand! Here is an example of 2-pack (quart each) for $34.99: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-pack-qua...h=item4420b5cabb:g:cS4AAOSwNNVbJY7b:rk:3:pf:0
The correct spec Castrol can be found in the US. Castrol
I bought two bottles, should last a very long time!
The fill container with the angled spout is what is used in hair salons to dispense hair color. Probably available in Walmart! Or at least somewhere locally.
Do NOT mix up the fill plug and the drain plug! They are the same thread diameter, but a different thread pitch! My dealer done that for me on the first service.
You can also get that exact bottle at Sally Beauty Supply. I put in 190 ml because about 10 ml always stays in the bottle. I nuke the bottle and oil in the microwave for 30 seconds to warm it up. It goes in much easier and faster that way. I have found that the factory fill is about 200 ml so I wouldn't worry too much about having a little more than 180.
Oh and good advice above about not putting a torque wrench on the drain and fill plugs. The threads are aluminum. Learned my lesson the hard way on an '09 GSA. The engine oil plug goes into steel so torque away on that one.
Thanks for the heads up on the Sally bottle. I will have to pick one up. Using a glass Pyrex measuring cup with a small funnel was not ideal as the funnel was tipped so far back the oil wanted to run the wrong way.
I never torque fill plugs or drain plugs. Minimum necessary has always been my motto on this and has worked for the last 40 years. If it drips, I can always put a wrench on it and give it just a bit more. If you strip it out, you just created a huge problem. Going into aluminum, this is one place I don't care what the book says.
Thing is, the failures aren't related to the fluid. The bearings that fail are sealed bearings. As long as the fluid meets the general spec, it's good. I've used castrol, mobil 1 and liquid moly. It all works fine.
Hi Ponch,
For the year RT you have listed in your signature, you are correct about one sealed bearing, but for 2010 thru current production, the crown bearing ("big bearing") is inside the oil bath with all the other bearings and gears.
Just striped my Final drive fill bolt . Was on there really tight. Any ideas on how to get off without screwing stuff up? I will order another fill bolt. So glad I tried to take that off before draining the fluid
Good call on trying the fill bolt before draining.
What tool did you use? Torx or Allen?
This may have been your problem...
Meanwhile you might still be able to replace the fluid by using the speedo pickup to refill.
Find and acquire your preferred tool for stripped allen bolts (Home Depot, Amazon, search Youtube, etc.). Be prepared to apply heat from a torch or an electric heat gun (be gentile, no need to get it red hot, shoot for 160-200F - get an IR temp gage).
I did a direct swap-out on my '08RT with one from a 2010RT...3 days before an Alaska trip in 2014. Starting with the 2010 up to current, they have one other positive improvement besides the crown bearing being bathed in the gear oil...that is that they installed a vent at the top of the FD just behind the arm of the casting that connects to the parallel link to the FD. The same revised oil quantity is 180ml of 75w90 GL5 is carried thru to todays FD.
I still have that one from the 2010RT, as well as one from a 2013GSA, 2015 K1600GTL, and a spare for the WetHead series too...I'm all strung out on FD's!
For years I have been using a Wal-Mart ketchup bottle they sell for about $.99 ... maybe less. Add a small 6" piece of tubing to the end if you like and it works like a champ. I filled it with 180ML of water to mark the correct location.
Another thing to be aware of is that the drain plug and fill plug have the same or very similar diameter but different thread pitch. If you're focused on the hex head v torx difference that will help you not make the mistake of putting the fill plug into the drain hole which I'm nearly certain the dealer did on one of the initial services. My guess is whomever did it realized it fairly quickly and so did not screw it in very far. When I began doing my own FD oil changes at 24K miles I noticed the drain plug was very very tight all the way out until the last few turns and that did not comport with responses from others who responded to my question about this here. When I did an FD oil change at 40K miles a 1/2" long piece of thread was hanging down out of the drain hole. Very fortunate for me is that I have been able to get it back in and it still seals fine.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
BMW Luxury Touring Community
894.3K posts
44.8K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to BMW Luxury Touring motorcycle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, reviews, and more!