Fairing Removal - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 2 Old Aug 10th, 2012, 7:40 am Thread Starter
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Trinity, Fl., United States
Posts: 2
Exclamation Fairing Removal

The Clymers manual isnt too specific on where to start removal of the fairing on a 2003 K1200 GT. Can someone help me in determining where to start? I've asked my local shop and they seem very reluctant to share the information. I dont want to rebuild the motor or anything, they can have big jobs like that. But I would like to be able to at least change spark plug wires and the like,,,
If I could just figure out where and how to start I'm sure I could figure out the rest without having to pay 95 bucks an hour shop fees.
ANY help would be a great birthday present to me today.
MANY THANKS in advance Guys.
Respectfully, Mike Griff, Tampa Florida.
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post #2 of 2 Old Aug 14th, 2012, 7:28 pm
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Re: Fairing Removal

Pretty much simple stuff. You need a set of torx sockets. IIRC goes like this-upper-small winglets-outer most each side 2 bolts each. Then inner panels-either side of gauges 2 bolts each. Nose-4 bolts-2 upper- 2 underside near oil cooler. Now its loose-taking hold of each end place thumbs on outer edge of screen-standing in the front of bike- while giving a good yank on nose straight back-it will snap out and towards you. Next, you will see the ends of the frame rails on either side (front) that is exposed and on the outside of the side pods- place some painters tape around the rails-because when you remove the side pods they will rub on the rails and scratch the panel. Next belly pan -which is one piece. go around bottom and take off all fasterers including the ones that go across the lower front. Now ther are 2 you don't see in the black rubber strip (air deflector not on RS) back of side panel. Get your torx socket in the lowest hole-this torx is one step smaller that the other fasteners. You will see it pull away from the fairing and its more of a tapered screw. Then go up one hole and remove that fastener-same on each side. Now-the trickey part-get your fingers under front and back on top side and pull up to release the 2 upper tabs. Then carefully slide that baby back-remember the tape-now you will see why you put it there-they are sharp. On the rear inner side of each panel is a rubber reciever for a nipple on the frame that just pushes in upon re-install-put some grease on the nipple to make it easier to re-install. That is pretty much it-first time take your time and find all mounting points. Oh-pretty important-the fasteners ('cept the smaller tapered one ) are all same threads but 3 lenghts. Make a template to put the same ones back-or use that painters tape to tape each bolt next to the hole it came from. Most critical on belly pan front where too long a fastener can puncture a radiator hose. Phew--just take your time and don't lose anything.
)

Phil in Marin
2013 K1300S-30 Anniv ED. sold
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