Clutch Drilling--- - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 52 Old Dec 30th, 2005, 6:51 pm Thread Starter
 
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Clutch Drilling---

Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
I am really disappointed in the way BMW fails to address known problems! The failing clutch slave cylinders have been an Achilles heel on the bike since introduced in '99! You would think they would have jumped on a re-design as soon as warranty replacements started hitting the books. I don't think Honda would have suffered with replacements that long without doing something.

AND, a failing cylinder STILL takes out the clutch! BMW, you are STUPID to let something that well known continue to be a big problem.

ADDED: If I were to get a new LT, I would drill the drain hole in the tranny right away! My first clutch replacement on the 2000 LTwas at 400 miles! The second at 4,000 miles, the third at 8500 miles. You can see why I am so adamant about BMW's failure to address this rather simple device. At least they should add a drain so the cylinder failure does not automatically require a much more expensive clutch replacement.


David,

I'm with you 100% on what you said. In fact I am going to host a NW tech session *JUST* for the clutch drilling to take place. We'll call it "Driller Thriller!"

The way I see it is-all I need is a good drill/bits and someone who KNOWS *where* to drill them puppies.

David I sure wish you lived near. If you feel the need for a little LT time, let me know. I just happen to have a spare LT around so we could go for a ride! (BRIBE-BRIBE!!)

Anyone who lives up in the Seattle-Bellevue, Great Northwest Area that knows how to do this operation...let me know and I will set it up.

I am real sick of buying new clutches.
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post #2 of 52 Old Dec 30th, 2005, 7:15 pm
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Coni,

I'm planning on being in Portland for around two weeks in the middle of January. I'll be glad to come up and help out. I'll let you know as soon as the dates are set, but I'm sure I can swing a weekend visit up your way. Just don't be surprised if I show up in a rental car with too many wheels.

In the mean time, check out the pics in this thread.

(Also posted in the North West forum, so that we can coordinate dates.)

Ken
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'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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post #3 of 52 Old Dec 30th, 2005, 7:25 pm Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
Coni,

I'm planning on being in Portland for around two weeks in the middle of January. I'll be glad to come up and help out. I'll let you know as soon as the dates are set, but I'm sure I can swing a weekend visit up your way. Just don't be surprised if I show up in a rental car with too many wheels.

In the mean time, check out the pics in this thread.

(Also posted in the North West forum, so that we can coordinate dates.)
Ken,
I saw one pix posted, that did not look like it was drilled low enough. Since you went with David and saw it straight from "The Man" I believe we have a tech session in the making.
We will move this to the NW board and get everyone's calendars synchronized and get it moving.
Thanks Ken!
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post #4 of 52 Old Dec 30th, 2005, 9:12 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black1200lt
Ken,
I saw one pix posted, that did not look like it was drilled low enough. Since you went with David and saw it straight from "The Man" I believe we have a tech session in the making.
We will move this to the NW board and get everyone's calendars synchronized and get it moving.
Thanks Ken!
The hole I drilled is plenty low enough Coni. Only about 1/32" of fluid could pool before draining out, only about to the bottom of the black seal pictured. It would have to get all the way up to the hole in the center of the mainshaft to traverse through to the clutch.

The reason it is a little off center is that we did Ken's bike with the crossmember still in. That required angling the drill up from the left side, and off center. You can see how I went between the catalytic converter and the jog in the crossmember. Also, there is a step in the tranny housing below the boss that the cylinder mounts to, that sticks out some and is offset to the right side, we drilled to the left of the step. When I did mine, it was with the cross member removed, and more centered, but behind the step, so I had to angle the drill toward the front of the bike. When drilling with the cross member in place, you have to drill straight up, to the left of the step in the casting, which places the drill as you see it in the pictures. That is just as good as the one I drilled that was more centered.

Wish I could make your "Driller-Chiller" tech session! If Ken makes it up, he now knows how to do it. I have that long drill I could loan him to bring up, or mail it to you. Not readily available from your local hardware store.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
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EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
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post #5 of 52 Old Dec 30th, 2005, 9:22 pm
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Coni,
If you let me know what size drill bit, I will attend your tech session armed with several drill bits.(I have access to drill bits of all sizes and materials) Are we drilling aluminum or something harder?

Brian Ley
WA State of mindless sheep
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post #6 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 12:47 am
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Cool

Count me in as well Coni! Just need to know when and where. I guess that will be up to Ken's schedule. I also think this is a very worthwhile thing to do for preventative purposes.

John

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post #7 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 1:38 am
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David, I meant to ask you how long yours is? Um, er, well you get the idea.

Also, what do you think is the minimum we'd have to remove to get to this area? I'm trying to remember if it's blocked by the swing arm, which means tearing down as far as we did, or if we could reach up there with a long drill and the swing arm in place.

I'm guessing a full tear down, as we had to remove the swing arm to get the slave cylinder out, and I don't think I'd like to drill that with it still in place. So maybe we can get a decent drill bit, but I might want to borrow your open socket, or at least make one up ahead of time.

Also, if anyone up in the PNW has 50K miles or more on their bike, you may want to plan on replacing the slave anyway. Assuming we have a decent workshop, I'm not against doing several LTs at once, or doing one as a demonstration and letting y'all work out the rest according to your schedule. The parts weren't that expensive, and I can give you exact part numbers so the parts can be bought ahead of time.

Ken
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'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
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post #8 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 1:57 am
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OK, how do things look for the 14th and/or 15th of January? That seems to be my best option.

I haven't booked flights yet, and the times are totally up to me. Much sooner and the flights get expensive. Much later and it'll interfere with plans I have in L.A. on the 20th, and possibly drag my work project later than I'd like to.

I'm even willing to do one day up near Seattle (assuming we have garage space available) and possibly one day somewhere in Portland (how's that lift, Ernie?).

Another option is to shoot for the 28th and/or 29th of January, which gives us all more time to plan.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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post #9 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 7:41 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
OK, how do things look for the 14th and/or 15th of January? That seems to be my best option.

I haven't booked flights yet, and the times are totally up to me. Much sooner and the flights get expensive. Much later and it'll interfere with plans I have in L.A. on the 20th, and possibly drag my work project later than I'd like to.

I'm even willing to do one day up near Seattle (assuming we have garage space available) and possibly one day somewhere in Portland (how's that lift, Ernie?).

Another option is to shoot for the 28th and/or 29th of January, which gives us all more time to plan.
I have quite a few things to do to my bike as well. I could use some help when I'm recovering from this up-and-coming surgery on my shoulder. I need to replace my throttle cables and cruise control cables. I might as well do the '05 conversion. I have a dash light out, so I might as well do the speedo correction while I'm that close. Also I have to aim that darn HID! I want to do the coolant and brake fluid change,so I might as well do the clutch slave and change that fluid too. Wow! It will feel like a new machine.

R U up for any of that?

E

Ernie A
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post #10 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 8:48 am
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The drill I used is a number 21 (not important, about 5/32") and is 6" long. A standard "jobber's length" drill (as in sets) is not long enough to do the job with the crossmember in place.

I would not try to do that with the clutch slave still in the bike! could damage the slave. So the swing arm would have to be removed anyway. If one wanted to take the chance on not damaging the slave cylinder, it could be done though.

I will gladly loan the drill, socket, and allen wrench. Let me know if you want to pick it up, or I could mail it to Coni so it will be there when you arrive.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
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post #11 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 10:20 am Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
OK, how do things look for the 14th and/or 15th of January? That seems to be my best option.

I haven't booked flights yet, and the times are totally up to me. Much sooner and the flights get expensive. Much later and it'll interfere with plans I have in L.A. on the 20th, and possibly drag my work project later than I'd like to.

I'm even willing to do one day up near Seattle (assuming we have garage space available) and possibly one day somewhere in Portland (how's that lift, Ernie?).

Another option is to shoot for the 28th and/or 29th of January, which gives us all more time to plan.
Ken,

We will be out of town on the 14th/15th.

Since the weather is so bad in Seattle now, I'm pretty sure that no one will mind if we put it off a bit.

The first two weeks of February would work for me, how is your calendar looking on those dates?
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post #12 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 2:14 pm
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This may work out. I still need to head up in January, so maybe a session at Ernie's on the 14th/15th. I will need to head back up in February, so we can probably schedule another session in Seattle then. I won't know those dates for another couple of weeks, but again I'll have some flexibility. And if that fails, I'll be back up towards the end of February and into March, so we'll have more chances then.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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post #13 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 2:44 pm
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I do not know about the wrench or allen needed, but I should have no problem getting a few #21 drills 6 inches or longer

Brian Ley
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post #14 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 4:25 pm Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
This may work out. I still need to head up in January, so maybe a session at Ernie's on the 14th/15th. I will need to head back up in February, so we can probably schedule another session in Seattle then. I won't know those dates for another couple of weeks, but again I'll have some flexibility. And if that fails, I'll be back up towards the end of February and into March, so we'll have more chances then.
Ken,
Sounds like Ernie could use your help right now as well, so that works out quite well for everyone.
Ernie, I'm sorry to hear about your shoulder. I hope everything goes well and your recovery is a snap.
Check your schedule Ken and we will get this on the books.
Best,
Coni
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post #15 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 4:31 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanjaun2
I do not know about the wrench or allen needed, but I should have no problem getting a few #21 drills 6 inches or longer
Cool. Like David said, the exact length isn't critical, just so long as you can get the drill up under the bike. The exact size is open too, as it' s just a small weep hole.

The allen wrench isn't anything special, and the socket just had a window cut out so that you can hold the inner allen bolt still while torquing the outer lock nut down. I'd like to get a few extra sockets, then have them modified to match David's. That way, we could leave one in the PNW, and have another here in SoCal, and maybe even send one to Neblett, or Rehder, or the Texas crew.

I have a friend with a garage workshop well stocked with normal power tools, but if someone has access to a simple mill we could churn out several modified sockets easily. Add a drill bit, an allen wrench, and maybe even a few pics and you'd have a pretty decent kit for this job.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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Last edited by meese; Dec 31st, 2005 at 4:39 pm.
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post #16 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 5:58 pm
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Red face

Would like to do this "Hole" mod myself. Photo gives the @ where ... but the casting shows output shaft recessed from end of casting where clutch assm go's onto.

While looking under bike and viewing the area of casting too be drilled, How Far from outer edge do you drill hole ?

Any photos looking at that from under bike ?

Thank you.
Scott

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post #17 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 7:10 pm
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I don't have any more photos than those already posted. But if we do this in a couple of weeks at Ernie's, we'll be sure to take a few more pics.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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post #18 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 8:02 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
Cool. Like David said, the exact length isn't critical, just so long as you can get the drill up under the bike. The exact size is open too, as it' s just a small weep hole.

The allen wrench isn't anything special, and the socket just had a window cut out so that you can hold the inner allen bolt still while torquing the outer lock nut down. I'd like to get a few extra sockets, then have them modified to match David's. That way, we could leave one in the PNW, and have another here in SoCal, and maybe even send one to Neblett, or Rehder, or the Texas crew.

I have a friend with a garage workshop well stocked with normal power tools, but if someone has access to a simple mill we could churn out several modified sockets easily. Add a drill bit, an allen wrench, and maybe even a few pics and you'd have a pretty decent kit for this job.
Ken,

Do you have details on this socket? I can machine a couple up here.

Ernie

Ernie A
Milwaukie, OR
Member: MOA, AMA, IBA, NRA, MERA
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2012 K16GTL (3/2018 to present) 68k (Totaled! 8/11/19 Deer strike)
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post #19 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 8:04 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
Cool. Like David said, the exact length isn't critical, just so long as you can get the drill up under the bike. The exact size is open too, as it' s just a small weep hole.

The allen wrench isn't anything special, and the socket just had a window cut out so that you can hold the inner allen bolt still while torquing the outer lock nut down. I'd like to get a few extra sockets, then have them modified to match David's. That way, we could leave one in the PNW, and have another here in SoCal, and maybe even send one to Neblett, or Rehder, or the Texas crew.

I have a friend with a garage workshop well stocked with normal power tools, but if someone has access to a simple mill we could churn out several modified sockets easily. Add a drill bit, an allen wrench, and maybe even a few pics and you'd have a pretty decent kit for this job.
I've got the mill if you have the details.
Ernie

Ernie A
Milwaukie, OR
Member: MOA, AMA, IBA, NRA, MERA
GS911 & GS911 Wifi - Diagnostics Tools Available
2012 K16GTL (3/2018 to present) 68k (Totaled! 8/11/19 Deer strike)
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2006 Suzuki DL1000 V Strom Silver/Blk - >21k (Sold)
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post #20 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 8:19 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black1200lt
Ken,
Sounds like Ernie could use your help right now as well, so that works out quite well for everyone.
Ernie, I'm sorry to hear about your shoulder. I hope everything goes well and your recovery is a snap.
Check your schedule Ken and we will get this on the books.
Best,
Coni
Thanks Coni. I might sound a little pitiful, but I'll bounce back and hope to put down another year of serious miles. This year our LT provided over 22k wonderful miles this year. Happy New Year to you and yours and many miles of fun riding.

Ernie A
Milwaukie, OR
Member: MOA, AMA, IBA, NRA, MERA
GS911 & GS911 Wifi - Diagnostics Tools Available
2012 K16GTL (3/2018 to present) 68k (Totaled! 8/11/19 Deer strike)
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post #21 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 8:29 pm
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If you look up from underneath, you should see the rear of the transmission housing, and the protrusion to the rear where the slave cylinder bolts on. There is a step in the housing that goes back about 3/8" from the housing face, and it is from about the center of the protrusion going to the right side of the bike. The hole we drilled in the picture would be just about at the face of the tranny housing, where the step starts. Drill straight up from there, but angle the drill to the right side of the bike to get the hole to come out near center.

If you try to do this with the slave cylinder still on the bike, just be careful to stop drilling as soon as the drill breaks through. You will mark the outer part of the "nose" of the slave cylinder, but this will not damage it if you don't drill into it.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
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IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
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post #22 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 8:37 pm
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Get a 30MM deep socket, and mill out a window in the side of it. You want to be able to put a 12 MM allen wrench into the window and into the pivot screw, and be able to turn the wrench about 60 degrees.

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post #23 of 52 Old Dec 31st, 2005, 8:46 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
Get a 30MM deep socket, and mill out a window in the side of it. You want to be able to put a 12 MM allen wrench into the window and into the pivot screw, and be able to turn the wrench about 60 degrees.

Picture of mine attached.
Thanks David. I will pick a couple up and copy the one in your pic.

Ernie

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post #24 of 52 Old Jan 1st, 2006, 2:52 am
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That's a 12-point socket, right? Should give a little more flexibility that way.

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post #25 of 52 Old Jan 1st, 2006, 8:29 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
That's a 12-point socket, right? Should give a little more flexibility that way.
and consider 1/2" drive, 3/8 could break.

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post #26 of 52 Old Jan 1st, 2006, 9:50 am
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I've been following this thread, and have gone back and reviewed the other drilling threads. I don't see, anywhere that you talk about the whole procedure of removing the clutch slave cylinder, in all cases, before drilling. I'm assuming this is mandatory. You wouldn't drill through that housing without being able to clean out the chips and shavings, would you?

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post #27 of 52 Old Jan 1st, 2006, 9:53 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
That's a 12-point socket, right? Should give a little more flexibility that way.
Yes, or the window will have to be much larger, weakening the socket.

By the way, the same socket can be used to remove the clutch drive plate from the engine output when you are doing clutch work.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
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post #28 of 52 Old Jan 1st, 2006, 9:54 am
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It pretty much HAS to be 1/2" drive, as the torque required cannot be reached with a 3/8" torque wrench.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
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post #29 of 52 Old Jan 1st, 2006, 10:00 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BkrK12
I've been following this thread, and have gone back and reviewed the other drilling threads. I don't see, anywhere that you talk about the whole procedure of removing the clutch slave cylinder, in all cases, before drilling. I'm assuming this is mandatory. You wouldn't drill through that housing without being able to clean out the chips and shavings, would you?
I would not want to do it without removing the cylinder, but in thinking it over feel it COULD be done, with some risk. There will not be much in the way of chips inside, as they are pretty much pulled out with the drill. If a chip were to be left in, it likely would not damage the seal surface of the cylinder, even if it were to work it's way up into it. The cylinder is hard coated, and the chips would be pretty soft aluminum.

As I said though, I would not do it that way.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
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post #30 of 52 Old Jan 1st, 2006, 10:01 am
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[QUOTE=meese]Cool. Like David said, the exact length isn't critical, just so long as you can get the drill up under the bike. The exact size is open too, as it' s just a small weep hole.[/QUOTE

Try to find a 6-7" long drill. Any longer, and you may not be able to get the power drill in place with the bike on the centerstand. I had enough room to get my hand under it to push hard enough, but much longer and it would have been tight.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

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post #31 of 52 Old Jan 1st, 2006, 10:19 am
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Thanks again for all your input, David. I also have a 90 degree drill, which helps getting in to tight spaces.

Ken
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post #32 of 52 Old Jan 1st, 2006, 1:18 pm
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Question

[QUOTE=dshealey]
Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
Cool. Like David said, the exact length isn't critical, just so long as you can get the drill up under the bike. The exact size is open too, as it' s just a small weep hole.[/QUOTE

Try to find a 6-7" long drill. Any longer, and you may not be able to get the power drill in place with the bike on the centerstand. I had enough room to get my hand under it to push hard enough, but much longer and it would have been tight.
I have a "right-angle" attachment that will make the drilling a cinch. To be clear: I need a 1/2 inch drive, 12 point socket 30mm. Mill an opening that allows the 12mm allen to fit into the window and into the allen head machine screw. Allow about 60 degrees of movement. Correct?

Ernie A
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post #33 of 52 Old Jan 1st, 2006, 2:04 pm
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Yep. Be sure you get a Deep socket, not a standard length one.

Mill the window in the socket higher up toward the 1/2" drive end than I did on mine. I had to dremel off about 3/8" of the allen wrench to get the socket down on the nut. Could have milled more out of the socket, but not until I got back to work where I had access to the machine shop.

By the way, I used a carbide end mill. The socket is pretty hard, a standard high speed steel end mill will not do it.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
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post #34 of 52 Old Jan 8th, 2006, 8:59 pm
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So, is there a time and place for this?

There has been lots of discussion on tools and procedure but has there been a time nailed down. Earnie's house with stadium seating and keg O rater?
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post #35 of 52 Old Jan 8th, 2006, 9:50 pm
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Ernie and I are working it out now. We're looking at this Saturday, if we can get an early start and get to it, or possibly Sunday.

Dayle and I made it up to Hillsboro tonight, so there may be a dinner or two in there as well.

Ken
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post #36 of 52 Old Jan 9th, 2006, 11:08 am
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Glad that you made it up here. John and I were talking about it last night and are both curious to see the procedure. Does Ernie have those chairs ready in the garage?

Dinner somewhere, just about any where, would be great just to visit
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post #37 of 52 Old Jan 9th, 2006, 11:00 pm
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Well, Are we declaring a tech session on sat?

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post #38 of 52 Old Jan 9th, 2006, 11:45 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanjaun2
Well, Are we declaring a tech session on sat?
I think Ernie's trying to get the parts together. We should know more tomorrow. Either way, I'm up this weekend, and am looking forward to some LT company (even if my bike's at home ).

Ken
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post #39 of 52 Old Jan 10th, 2006, 9:39 am
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Okay then, Hooters it is
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post #40 of 52 Old Jan 10th, 2006, 3:35 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
I think Ernie's trying to get the parts together. We should know more tomorrow. Either way, I'm up this weekend, and am looking forward to some LT company (even if my bike's at home ).
All the parts I needed were at Ride West in Seattle. They will arrive tomorrow morning via UPS. I'm working on the socket now and still looking for a 12MM allen. I guess I'll have to hop up to Hall Tool and see what they have. I haven't located the Keg-er-ator, and the stadium seating hasn't arrived, but plenty of room for the gallery to sit in comfy patio furniture.

I will be picking up another Torque Wrench today so we can compare notes with John (the Newton-Meter Man ) so please bring yours if you are coming.

Lunch is to-be-announced, however Pauline will have complete descretion on this part of the day. I'm sure whatever it is it will be good (we haven't had any complaints in the past)

I'm afraid the list of repairs may take longer than the day will allow. We'll do the Clutch Slave R&R and drilling first. After that is done we'll see how far we'll get on the rest, then I'll be buttoning up the project on Sunday and if anyone wants to be here for that session... you know you are always welcome.

The List:
Throttle Cable R&R
Speedo correction
Dash light replacement
Coolant R&R
Brake Fluid Flush

See you Saturday morning at 9.

Ernie A
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post #41 of 52 Old Jan 10th, 2006, 5:38 pm
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Ernie,
Haven't heard from you in awhile, I hope all is well. You should have given me a call. I would have picked up your stuff at ridewest and LT delivered it to you. Save the shipping at least. I can bring the drill bits and I have a selection of valve buckets if anyone is planning on needing them? I am still waiting on my harness for my ipod so I can button her up again.

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post #42 of 52 Old Jan 10th, 2006, 6:25 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanjaun2
Ernie,
Haven't heard from you in awhile, I hope all is well. You should have given me a call. I would have picked up your stuff at ridewest and LT delivered it to you. Save the shipping at least. I can bring the drill bits and I have a selection of valve buckets if anyone is planning on needing them? I am still waiting on my harness for my ipod so I can button her up again.
Thanks Brian. I wanted to get them right away and check the order for accuracy. They only charged me a portion of the true shipping anyway. I must be in good graces with them.

What harness are you waiting for on your iPod? Dension is supposed to send me a harness as well, but I haven't heard from them a long while. I guess it is time to start rattling their cages again.

I have a 1/8 and a 3/16 drill bits that will do the trick, however feel free to bring what you have. Your's might be more suitable.

I bought a 1/2 inch drive "click-stop" torque wrench today that goes up to 150 Ft Lbs or roughly 200Nm. I hope that is enough for what we need on the swingarm pivot.

I like it when a plan starts to come together.

Ernie A
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post #43 of 52 Old Jan 10th, 2006, 7:35 pm
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I am waiting for their dock cable. They are charging me 40 bucks for it too. I was hoping they would send it for free. (we have bought enough of their products here) And Have had to deal with all their problems. I just wanted to get it finished so I can finally listen to music for more than 20 minutes. I guess 500 bucks is not enough to get it working!!!!

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post #44 of 52 Old Jan 10th, 2006, 9:49 pm
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Hey Ernie, we're really looking forward to those stadium chairs with the Keg-O-Rator! I'll bring along my special NM tool as well as a 12 mm bit if you want. You should be able to find the 3 bit set at almost any Auto Zone for a real cheap price that includes: 12, 14 (Xmsn drain!), and 17 mm. That's where I got mine years ago, and it works great for the Xmsn. It is 1/2" drive.

Art & I should be all set to supervise all you need, thus freeing you up for the real work!

Seriously though, hope you're healing OK and not in too much pain buddy!

Looking forward to the get together!

John

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post #45 of 52 Old Jan 10th, 2006, 11:22 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaFish
Hey Ernie, we're really looking forward to those stadium chairs with the Keg-O-Rator! I'll bring along my special NM tool as well as a 12 mm bit if you want. You should be able to find the 3 bit set at almost any Auto Zone for a real cheap price that includes: 12, 14 (Xmsn drain!), and 17 mm. That's where I got mine years ago, and it works great for the Xmsn. It is 1/2" drive.

Art & I should be all set to supervise all you need, thus freeing you up for the real work!

Seriously though, hope you're healing OK and not in too much pain buddy!

Looking forward to the get together!

John
I got the allen wrenches and I'm machining the socket now. I'll be ready on Saturday. Sorry we will be down to patio chairs and some brews in the refrigerator.

I don't go under the knife until next Friday. This is why I want to get my LT back in shape so she is ready to roll when I am.

We are looking forward to seeing you again on Saturday.

Ernie A
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post #46 of 52 Old Jan 11th, 2006, 1:53 am
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Who said anything about supervising? I need someone to take pictures, someone to document the procedure while we do the work, and someone to actually do the work. Besides, the supervising position is already spoken for (that's my job ).

Ken
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'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
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post #47 of 52 Old Jan 11th, 2006, 9:14 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaFish
I'll bring along my special NM tool as well as a 12 mm bit if you want. You should be able to find the 3 bit set at almost any Auto Zone for a real cheap price that includes: 12, 14 (Xmsn drain!), and 17 mm. John
Cannot use a socket drive bit for the swing arm. Have to have a regular "L" shaped allen wrench to get inside the cutaway socket that is used to tighten the 30MM lock nut while holding the center screw stationary with the allen wrench.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
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post #48 of 52 Old Jan 11th, 2006, 12:01 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
Cannot use a socket drive bit for the swing arm. Have to have a regular "L" shaped allen wrench to get inside the cutaway socket that is used to tighten the 30MM lock nut while holding the center screw stationary with the allen wrench.
Right. But you also need a 12 mm socket bit to torque the inner bolt down, prior to torquing the outer lock nut. So we need both 12 mm allen types.

Ken
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post #49 of 52 Old Jan 11th, 2006, 2:04 pm
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You know, right after I posted that I had the 12mm bit, I did think about what Mr. Shealey says! Doh! I can even picture the socket with the cut out! So yes, the actual Allen wrench will be necessary for that portion. Of course I did appreciate our young "Supervisor's" qualifier about still having a use for the 12mm bit anyway! (Tks Ken!)

So Ernie, do you have both the wrench and the bit in 12mm, or should I still bring mine along?

Just one of the old guys trying to help.

John

John & Marilyn Fisher
'00 K1200LTC "Katie"
'95 Triumph "Tigger"
'12 Triumph 800XC "Tigger II" (RIP)
'12 Triumph 1200 Explorer "Shadow Tigger"
Hillsboro, Oregon

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AlaskaFish is offline  
post #50 of 52 Old Jan 11th, 2006, 2:21 pm
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Location: Milwaukie, OR, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
Right. But you also need a 12 mm socket bit to torque the inner bolt down, prior to torquing the outer lock nut. So we need both 12 mm allen types.
Got both... We're good to go...

Ernie A
Milwaukie, OR
Member: MOA, AMA, IBA, NRA, MERA
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2012 K16GTL (3/2018 to present) 68k (Totaled! 8/11/19 Deer strike)
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2013 R1200GSW
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> 28k miles!
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2006 Suzuki DL1000 V Strom Silver/Blk - >21k (Sold)
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