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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Feb 2nd, 2006 5:26 pm
riderup1 Thanks to this post I did a pre-emptive strike on my latch unit today. I took the unit apart and made a scribe line less than 1/16 down from the existing latch surface. I put the latches in the vice and filed them down nice and even and smooth...then used oil and a stone to smooth out the surface the pin rides on and knocked the burrs off the edges. I reassembled the unit, closed it and its smooth as can be until the very end...then GRRRR! I did'nt realize how deep those pins go into the latch and will now have to do to procedure over again paying particular attention to the end of the latching area this time. Overall I can tell the improvement however, and it is still sealed quite tight. Thanks guys.
Feb 2nd, 2006 4:00 pm
nswenson My rear latch has been broken for years, but it still latches fine. I just leave it alone. Just looks bad with the corner broken off, leaving a squarish hole in the upper left corner.

Nate
Feb 2nd, 2006 2:34 pm
piusg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynn_Keen
I've posted this before but thought I'd pass it along one more time. Being more or less cheep and lazy my solution to the broken latch handle, my '99 was replaced under warranty, is simply to remove the latch pin in the top half of the trunk on the left side. This relieves all pressure from the side that typically breaks and believe it or not, in 94,000 miles my '99 trunk never failed to close and never popped open. The single latching point on the right works fine. I know it's not very elegant but, like the title, KISS, works for me.
Hey there Kemosabe. I bought your bike from Fred down at 441 Cycle in Ft. Lauderdale.

I absolutely love her and ride her every day; she is, in fact, my daily driver. I've added my Garmin 2610 to the BMR shelf using Garmin's motorcycle mount and BMR's add-on hardware, and put new ME-880s on both feet. I also removed the skippity-doo-dah CD changer in favor of a tank-mount MP3 player, and added an XM Roady XT. In addition, I've replaced the yellowing wind deflectors all around, and changed out all the lights in the dash. Lastly--just like you used to do--I always keep her shiny and clean, and always in my garage or under my covered parking spot at the office when she's not on the road.

Guess what: I put the pin back on the left side, and the latch handle broke within a week. Bummer. Also, all the rivets that held the topcase to the bottom failed. I drilled them all out and replaced the rivets with more positive nuts, bolts, and thread-lock, and removed the pin once again from the left side. Everything works just swimmingly once more, and all is right with the world.

Otherwise, the bike has been perfect. I'm sure that, like me, you're used to the oohs and aahs you get whenever anybody sees your LT sitting majestically in the parking lot. She's a real head-turner. Folks I show her off to can't believe that she's got almost a hundred grand on the ticker.

She's already been on two road trips with me, including the 2005 Toys in the Sun Run and this one to Key West . What a trip that was--and the bike performed like it was showroom-new.

How do you like your new '05?

Gregory
Dec 8th, 2005 5:39 am
Dezrae has anybody tried drowning their broken pins in jb weld or even tried making new pins out of some steel tube?
Dec 7th, 2005 9:16 am
lvahl I pulled the left pin on mine and it is working now, even with the latch broken. I am still hoping that bmwrider79 can manufacture a replacement.
Dec 7th, 2005 9:12 am
Lynn_Keen
Kiss

I've posted this before but thought I'd pass it along one more time. Being more or less cheep and lazy my solution to the broken latch handle, my '99 was replaced under warranty, is simply to remove the latch pin in the top half of the trunk on the left side. This relieves all pressure from the side that typically breaks and believe it or not, in 94,000 miles my '99 trunk never failed to close and never popped open. The single latching point on the right works fine. I know it's not very elegant but, like the title, KISS, works for me.
Dec 6th, 2005 10:51 pm
bikertz
Broken latch

I am also interested in the machined latch when it becomes available.

bikertz
02 silver K12LT
Nov 27th, 2005 6:48 pm
Ted_A Hey Mike:
Glad you enjoyed your rest.
Now it's time to CNC!
I got my LT Trunk off today and ready for that hand fit precision billet trunk latch!
Have you figured out finishing options? Powder Coat / Anodizing?
Nov 26th, 2005 10:37 am
bmwrider79 This is BMWRIDER79 here.

If you want pics of what I did I can provide. There are also some other prevention procedures that work well from what I read.

Being a toolmaker and one who like to make things better if it makes sence to. I examined the problem and that was my approach to fixing the problem.

The rough edges from the stamped steel latch pawls or arms is poor engineering at best by BMW. 30 seconds on a belt sander would eliminate the problem before altogether. But German engineering & craftsmenship is now done in the computer lab on CAD. The old days of hand fitting stuff are long gone. This is why some things on current BMW products bikes & cars seem cheap and break easy. The motors are still pretty solid and do last a long time. The drive trains are a differnt story. Ask Dr Gregory Fraiser.

In WW 2 the German airplane engines were hand fitted parts fit to perfection. The american radial engines were built to industrial manufaturing standards at the time. Hence the heavy oil consumption but easy & fast rebuilds of shot up cylinder heads etc. Where the German engines had piston "fit" to a cylinder.

Replacement latch will be forthcomming. I am enjoying a 4 day weekend. Yeha! Not on the LT it is 20 deg and snowed yeaterday, but just loafing
Nov 26th, 2005 1:38 am
Zotter There's this suggestion from BMWrider himself:

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthre...8&page=2&pp=10

(scroll down a bit on page 2 to find this post)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwrider79
After the dealer replaced my unit I closely examined the device. Th culprit is the 2 latches that hook the 2 pins on the top case. The finish on them is dog rough.

I took a dremel and put a real smooth finish on the underside where they contact the 2 pins. Now they have a polished finish on them. Much smoother operation.

From my own examination of the problem here is what I discern.

1 the rough surface on the bottom grabbers deteriorates the pins.
2 the added friction then causes undue stress on the handle
3 over time the repetitive nature of the stress on the handle it just fails.

Knowing something about die cast dies. ( I am a Mold and Die Maker by trade) A 3 hour fix on the die could add the much needed extra metal needed to make the latch handle unbreakable.
This just plain stubbornness on behalf of BMW not to fix this problem from the get go.
Then there's this thread:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1668

There're more, some info in the HoW as well.

Found those by using the search function in the menu bar - searched on 'latch pins'.
Nov 25th, 2005 9:28 pm
riderup1 thats what I'm lookin for...I'd rather avoid the problem than have to fix it later on...
Nov 25th, 2005 8:02 pm
Zotter There's LOTS of information around on this site about just that. Ranging from modification to the sealing gasket, different kinds of closing methods and latch pin/hook modifications to decrease stress on the latch handle when closing.
Nov 25th, 2005 7:36 pm
riderup1 Is there anything we can do now to prevent the breakage? I sure seems like its taking way too much pressure to lock it. I already push the lid down manually pretty hard everytime I latch it to eliminate some of the stress on the mechanism. Should we remove some material somewhere now to free up the pressure on the latch a little bit?? Lube something??
Nov 25th, 2005 7:31 pm
bmwrider79 I am currently working on aking the computer modedel to CNC machine them.

Regular work has been getting in the way. Will be posting soon. There is enough interest to make at least 10 units. So we will be. Stay tuned.
Nov 25th, 2005 6:50 pm
Zotter Couple options:

Factory option: Buy the replacement. At least $600 since you can't buy just the latch, but the whole lower half of the tail trunk

Fix it option: JB Weld (epoxy) or true welding. This is a loose cast aluminum alloy, so be sure you find someone who knows what they're up to if you weld it. JB Weld or other epoxy - some have had good results, others not so good.

Get bys: Remove the latch handle completely. Gets it out of the way - can't lock the tail trunk, tends to 'flop' up now and then - but it lets ya get into it.

Wait for the projects: There's a couple that're working on an aftermarket replacement - maybe milled from billet - to replace a broken latch. Long process, nothing ready yet - no ETA.
Nov 25th, 2005 4:39 pm
larrylsass
Trunk latch for the K1200

Can anybody give me information about repairing broken trunk latch on the K1200 bike? I appreciate it!

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